Katarn

If the price's nearly the same then it's your pick whether you want OEM or third-party. But in my friend's experience of using an Anker fast charger, it still reliably works after 5 years on his S10. Really doesn't too matter actually, as the A13 would only charge on 15W anyway.
 
The point is, don't get cheap on things you use daily, especially with electronics like charger. The hazard of 'saving' by using cheap charger really outweighs the risk of another medical bill.
 
Agreed with @BiotechBen. You can't really expect a device will run smoothly if the hardware itself sucks, even with good OS. Samsung lower-range segment isn't something you would compare against another brands unfortunately, and phones at the price point would've only 'usable' for 2-3 years anyway.
 
It's comparison between Galaxy A13 vs Redmi Note 11, which priced close enough for me to compare, and technically (from their synthetic benchmark) it's nearly twice the performance. 
https://www.gsmarena.com/compare.php3?idPhone1=11402&idPhone2=11336
 
Unfortunately, you don't get Samsung for their lower-end products, they're darn sucks. But for their middle-end to flagship segment, it's indeed a consideration.
 
 
Thanks lol

nope a lot of games are locked to 30 or run even lower natively. 
 
also PAL would be 50fps/hz
 
 
yeah, seems likely and might not utilize OPs PC much at all ...
 
But usually there are 60fps mods (with varying effectiveness) 
 
 
when i run PSX2 most games barely use my CPU/GPU at all ,maybe 2-10%, you sure you don't see something similar? 

It's totally fine if you want to use 3rd party charger and cable, as long as it's the reputable brand ones and it does have quality, especially with fast chargers above 5V 2A.
 
I killed an iPhone 6s because of a (way too) cheap 5V 2A charger brick. It gave me two lessons: don't go way too affordable, and don't f*ck with way too cheapo electronics.
 
I use Aukey's charger as my 3rd party option since 2019, Anker would've my choice too as I saw my relatives using it and it's indeed darn reliable too. For 3rd party brand, it's rather expensive in my opinion (because there's quality on it), but it's still way cheaper than Samsung's own brick.
 
I specifically picked Samsung A34 instead of Redmi Note 12 Pro (near-same specs, even the Redmi have better camera) because of the software, even the A34 is indeed more expensive.
 
Samsung's One UI are actually the one top-notch 'manufacturer stock' Android that I would enjoy use for daily drive nowadays tbh.

Much faster is a full charge in about two hours.
And it is absolutely a scare tactic.  There is no way they can prove it was an off brand charger and not a malfunction of the one they shipped it with.

Haven't used an OEM charger in quite a while. I have a couple of ravpower 20w type C blocks and they've been great.

In my personal experience, I have had no problems with off brand chargers.  I have two fast chargers, and both have done no damage.  Oddly, the phone does not recognize them as fast chargers, but still they charge must quicker than the low end ones you might stumble upon.
If it were me; I would risk it.  I have already done so twice.

Pretty sure emulator use troubleshooting doesn't violate forum rules, but may be wrong, iirc I came here with dolphin issues many moons ago. Just make sure you have a physical copy of the content you wish to play.

I had the epic launcher before Fortnite and before it was cool. I use it for Unreal Engine 4 & Squad SDK.
 
I am not a hater but i have/keep my libary on Steam mainly because i have been there for 10+ years, there is history to the friends list, groups, old posts etc. That is something that is missing for me personally on Epic and i will not be able to convince every friend to use it. I like the epic launcher but it is simply really in it's beginning as a platform and if we are honest it does not have all the features of Steam, espicially for communities.
 
Also i do absolutely not support exclusivity deals. I do not like to get patronized which launcher i have to use for the product i pay for. I work a lot so i do not have much time to play and if there is a year i between release and release i propably have already lost interest if it was not really really good since i already have my unit and our main games and there are also other new games coming out.

Until the big tiddy hits you right in the 4K 8K. 
 
My votes go to Resident Evil 2 reboot, Detroit: Become Human, and Modern Warfare 2019 if we're talking vanilla graphics. Skyrim definitely hits the point of indiscernible differences if we omit said big tiddy, elf ears, and f#cking dragons. 
 
Edit: For some reason I didn't single out magic, but I did tiddies... #Truth

I think it's safe to assume that it will last until at least the second half of November. There is no way of knowing, but I don't see why they would stop the promotion early. The parts are still new, still being bought, and still in competition with nVidia's products, who also try to allure with game deals.
I think that a jump in prices is more likely to happen than game deals expiring (though I wouldn't expect a jump in prices either, except for specific models like the Nitro+).
Now, if you are asking about the specific game deals, then I can't really tell. They may change next month with the release/promotions of other hot games, but that is not necessarily a bad thing - unless you really want to choose between Ubisoft's absolute mess and Gearbox's moderate mess.
 
It also depends on the retailer, i.e. if the retailer has that kind of deal with AMD in the first place, and/or (probably) if they plan to maintain it.
For instance, I will be buying an all AMD build (R5 3600, RX 5700 XT), and I am entitled to NO games, as AMD has that deal with NO retailers neither where I live nor to any country close to where I live. That's quite unfair, and almost discriminatory, but - [rant interrupted due to not being on-topic]
- I think you'll be fine. As long as the retailer has it good with AMD, you should be able to get free games and Xbox Game Pass come November.

Get the 500GB.
The only really noticeable difference in speed is if you were moving large files like 4k videos. 
The random speeds on SATA vs NVME is barely noticeable regarding the system/game performance. 
 
Or check how much does the SX8200 Pro cost, its usually a lot cheaper and better than the 970EVO so you may be able to maybe get 500GB NVME if it's cheap where you live. 
 
For SATA drives, also check Crucial MX500. 

Recommend me some.
As long as the model is available at Siewert & Kau, I should be able to get it (https://shop.siewert-kau.de/storage).
 
Yes, it is available. I can't tell the price, but, going from NewEgg and Amazon, it should be significantly less expensive than either the 860 or the 970.
 
Any reaosn to go for a SATA drive over the SX8200?
 
Also, I forgot to mention in my previous post (in case it is relevant to my choice of SSD): the system I'm building is an R5 3600 RX5700 XT build with a 1TB 7200RPM HDD and a 2TB 5400 storage. It is intended for Blender 3D (modeling, sculpting, texturing, rendering), game design (UE4), video editing (YouTube quality), and gaming.

There's tricks to this but I don't clone drives myself so I can't help you there.
 
I must have mis-read then. I thought he was looking to reuse software existing on the old OS install.
 
With SSD's you should be able to fill them up to or past 90% before seeing serious performance degradation. If it can be helped though always leave some free space.
 
I can return to your other questions later.

First - your old programs do not show up in your new system. They will be saved as files on your old drive, but system will not detect them. You must install your software again on new system. Some programs may works, but others needs to be installed again (or at least you must copy some registry entries from old system to new one if you know how).
 
Games (separate installs) should works fine without reinstallation.
 
Games in Origin / Steam / etc. will work too with small preparation (easy to find on internet).
 
About booting your old system after motherboard change - yes, you can. System will find new drivers and runs fine without problems. Even if you change from Intel to AMD.
 
You can do whatever you want and on this forum you can find answers to all your questions, because people asks all the time about motherboard changes, cloning system etc. Of course some people answer it's not a good idea (clone) or impossible (to change motherboard without fresh install), but I say it's perfectly good. I cloned (imaged and restored in fact) lot of drives and changes lot of motherboards using the same system(s). Even since win7. And win10 is much better in that. BUT, as I see, you have not so big experience in that matter, so I don't recommend it for you - just saying that it's good option and possible.
 
Before you start asking more questions - just try it by yourself. Is nothing wrong with trying all possibilities. Unless you start with format and fresh install - then you'll have no chance to check other options.
 
At start I recommend to have two separate systems on two drives - old and new. Old one will be for your work if you need your old programs and have no time (yet) to configure everything on new system. After 1 or 2 weeks, step by step, you should made your new system operational.

If the program & it's files exist on the same drive then yes. If you try to have the program on one drive but it's files on the other drive you'll have to manually readdress where the program can find them.
 
If the new system comes with a Microsoft Office key then you would have your pre-existing install and the new one. If you do a fresh install using the key that comes with the new system then you would have two separate installs of the program. One on the old drive one on the new.
 
If you don't format the disk then uninstalling the programs won't do anything for you. Windows will take up it's own space (a fair number of GB) what you do with it is up to you.

For Storage drives that aren't hosting the OS it's easy plug'n'play. The Storage drive will show up under D:/ or E:/ as it did before.
 
The drive with your old OS is a bit more complicated. You can clone it to the SSD if time is an issue but I'm an advocate for doing a fresh install. You can still access the files on this disk if you connect it like the storage drive but if you install programs on your new SSD you'd have to tell them to find their resources on this non-boot disk and that can take a lot of time and doesn't always work.

You can move all your drives to new computer without problem. No format required, no actions required (except settings in BIOS to choose right bootable drive).
 
Your current NEW OS will work the same, your old OS will remain unused (you can boot it if you want though; is nice sometimes to have second OS in case something is wrong with your main OS).
 
Plug old drive to your computer is basically the same as plug pendrive to any computer - all data remains the same, nothing changed until you change it by your actions.
 
You can have ALL your drives connected and don't worry about anything including power consumption - HDD or SSD needs only few watts each. I have 4 HDDs and 2 SSDs and sometimes I connect another drive and everything works perfect.
 
Remember that your drive letters will be different in new system - your current "C" may be "E" or "F" etc.

If it's new/unused, I'd go with the Antec model, simply because I know it's made by Seasonic and it's an excellent design inside.
 
Hardware wise, Antec has higher current capabilities on 3.3v and 5v (20A vs 15A) but this is not really a strong plus, it doesn't really matter that much.
I don't know who's the OEM of Reactor and I can't easily find reviews for it at the moment, so I'll default to the known, the Antec one.

That Antec is fine... it's a rebrand of Seasonic SSR-xxxRT series  ... basically it's a Seasonic SSR-550RT  (Seasonic S12G)
Here's Antec review: https://www.anandtech.com/show/8571/antec-edge-550w-power-supply-review
Here's Seasonic S12G reviews : https://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/02/18/seasonic_s12gseries_s12g550_power_supply_review/
https://www.hardwareinsights.com/seasonic-s12g-550-w-review/
 

Nice try, Kyle.

Court case made warranty invalidation from anything that shouldn't destroy the component, or change it's characteristics to outside that of what the component is designed to do, invalid. Basically, you can mod your GPU in any way you want, both physically and using software, but flashing the wrong firmware might invalidate the warranty. (depending on what the firmware does)
Because it's illegal to use that kind of monitoring.
Only if it wasn't just a simple slider adjustment in the manufacturer's software that gets installed with the driver by default. AMD makes it incredibly easy to overclock your stuff safely.
It's not that risky anymore. The GPU uses self-throttling to keep the temps safe, and you can't turn it off. As long as it stays under 105°c at the junction, no damage can occur. Also, those numbers aren't all that impressive for a 5700 XT, even though they may seem like it. (this is on the reference blower cooler, but I replaced the thermal pads with good thermal paste)

Nice try, Kyle.

Nice try, Kyle.

Blacker than the night is the only way forward