Jray204

Yeah, considering upgrading but not sure yet as the TXM is a perfect level for me. However having had this experience I feel a bit eh getting another TXM replacement, despite the warranty. Even though this case is still pretty rare, I have come across a few others online with the same model, who have experienced an identical AC primary side failure, so I'm wondering whether some units may have a dodgy solder connection.

I think it may be something relating to a dodgy solder. From what I have seen, a fair few other people with the TXM series have experienced this AC side failure/explosion-thing

Sorry for sharing my life story, Tl;dr: PSU sparks and trips MCB when switched on, what could have caused this?

PSU: Corsair TX550M Okay so, yes it is silly that I've turned it on again after the first spark. The first time it happened I thought it was the LED strip on my table, as it came from that direction and was the only electronic in that area. I naturally assumed my PC would definitely never spark like that. This also meant that I continued using it. The first spark caused the main circuit breaker in my house to trip. After the first spark I switched off the power strip, unplugged the LED (thinking it was that), and turned back on the breaker, power strip. I went to have dinner and my dad said he heard another pop, but this didnt shut off the breaker so I assumed it was not the same thing. I switched on the PC after dinner and it turned on fine and ran for a few minutes, before I shut it down again. I'm currently in the midst of building my new setup, having moved house, and hence I have been switching off the main power strip often while working on it. The next day I turn on the PSU switch, and everythings fine, until u click the power button. When I do, I hear the same pop as last time, catch a glimpse of a spark, the breaker trips again and I smell what you'd imagine burning *electronics* to smell like. Now I know it's my PC I'm like oh dear... and stupidly decide to turn it on again after resetting the breaker and properly plugging in everything again. I assumed it was a short on the (nonPC) side of the PSU, hence it was tripping my breaker. The spark also seemed like it'd be a short from the mains. This time, I didnt even have to press the on button. When I flicked the PSU switch, POP it went again and sparks. So I took it out of the PC and tested it on its own (attached video), and sure enough it made the same spark. This had me relieved that the short was within the PSU, but also kinda terrified if my pc is fried after all this. I don't *think* my pc is dead, especially as it worked after the first spark. And because the spark was repeatable each time it was powered on, I believe a short had formed somewhere as opposed to me blowing an actual component within the PSU. Of course the breaker would trip before the spark could damage something else. Currently in the process of testing the PC with a new PSU, and will then RMA the original one. What I am curious to know is, why or how could have this fault possibly developed? I am aware some products/components can simply prematurely fail, however especially with PSUs it's pretty rare, and most of the time it is as a result of something else. It was kept on a tabletop within the case and pretty clean, my system draws under 400w under intensive load, it has rarely been moved about and never physically damaged. Is it possible I did just get unlucky? Testing the PSU externally:

Fair enough, well yea thank you for your help! Will decide soon, thinking 144hz isnt needed and 2K might be worth it.

Yea I do a lot of photo editing too, so that would probably be better. Wouldn't a flat panel look weird with a curved one though? Also would windows be able to run one at 144hz and one at 60hz?

Would be ideal but it's expensive, $300!

I am getting a second monitor. 24 inch in size, should it be: A. 1080p, 60hz, curved B. 1080p, 144hz, flat C. 1440p, 60hz, flat. My current monitor: 1080p, 144hz, curved

UPDATE: I found a K95 RGB Platinum for £139. Is going for this worth it?

Honestly I would just get a generic gaming chair off of Amazon. I got one for £100 and its just fine two years on.

Yea a brown however they seem to be £40 more than reds! Blues are the same as reds here but harder to find. Is the K70 quality worth going with a red switch? I have never used a linear switch and so I don't know if it'd be good. And unfortunately there aren't any open places near me to test.

As I said, anything with tactility, and I dont mind if it is clicky. United Kingdom, and no more than £120. I play casual games as well as work on here so an all rounder.

Hi all, As the title says, which keyboard should I pick? I like the K70 Mk2 for its good quality build and metal finish, however only the CMX Red switches are available within my budget, which I dont really like. The K68 is available with Blue switches, and although I prefer something like Brown, I would much rather have tactility with clicking than linear. However this is a little less premium, and plastic. Finally breaking the theme is the BlackWidow elite. I have to replace my current keyboard as it started messing up keystrokes. It is a razer. And one of the reasons people don't like them is because of their quality. However what I like about the BWE is the plush palm rest everyone says they like, it doesnt look too bad, it is metal and it has razer green switches (equivalent to mx blues.) I also have been looking for a Corsair Keyboard for a while now because I wanted to switch. No particular reason just I like the brand and many other of my PC Parts are Corsair. K70 - £115 K68 - £89 BWE - £119 (UPDATE: Just found a K95 RGB Platinum - £139) This seems ideal but will the quality let me down?

Here:

The Gigabyte 2060S Gaming OC which I am looking at has three Heatsinks connected by heat pipes and the structure.