Mister Woof

Well that's actually what happens if your GPU doesn't have enough VRAM. When your GPU runs out of VRAM, you end up swapping to system memory and then page file. And then your FPS takes a poop.

If you want a quick fix, it's likely you can just grab a 5800X3D and drop it in your existing motherboard. In games and desktop use, it will perform similarly to both AMD's 7000 and Intel 13th gen series. If you want to be able to just upgrade a CPU in 4 or 5 years, then get the AM5 system which should offer at least a few generations of CPU support. Intel LGA1700 is already at its end. That said, new 7000 X3D chips are releasing this month. If you want to wait, those are the one's I'd be going after.

Wouldn't worry about it. The biggest thing is going to be making sure it has enough USB ports, fan headers, internal USB, and RGB headers.

I would take differently named models having different core configurations over i7-11700K vs i9-111900K being the same fucking thing except $200 more for a tiny stock bump in frequency. This is not worthy of being an i9 class chip.

If you've got a Microcenter nearby, it can make this a bit tricky. They often give away motherboards on 12th gen stuff. So it can make a good case for a 12700K.

there's a "mark as solution" button to click on the bottom left of the post you wish to select as the solution.

negligible difference in power consumption in idle and single threaded load only gets nuts at full power, which rarely ever happens since most apps don't even tap those e-cores

as stated the 13700k is essentially a 12900k with better l2 cache, frequency, and price there's no reason to get the 12900k unless its really cheap.

Agreed, that's a lower score, it is likely power limit throttling or something. On the 10m loop mine will score around 30.5k, but it will hit 90c on a 360mm. With a contact frame.

Yes, depends on game. A Rzyen 3600 will bottleneck even an RTX 3070 in WoW for example. Sometimes.

Might want to see if you can try a previous revision of the BIOS. Or flash it again. I've had scenarios that required flashing a few times for whatever reason for it to work. Also, I'd try to remove one of the RAM sticks and try to boot. Then if that doesn't work, switch to the other slot (only 1). I've seen a lot of videos recently with Ryzen CPUs and bad memory controllers causing faulty memory channels to not boot.

Id wait until you did that, then. You'll gain more from a graphics card in games than you will from a new CPU.

Are you gonna get a graphics card? Could drop a 5800X3D in there if you are going to use a GPU, and it will hang with the best for the most part, sans PCIE4

Personally haven't had an iGPU for a few years now and don't miss it. However, I am not unaware of their benefits. Some scenarios allow use of the iGPU to help with streaming or other tasks, as well as backup and additional display outputs.

have you watched this youtube channel called "Just Rolled In?" I suspect there maybe some overlap with your experience and the vehicles being brought in there on a more serious note, you need to provide better information than what you've provided if you want to get serious feedback. Blanket statements such as, "i always thought building your own pc would save u money over buying some dell computer, i just learned the hard way this is bullshit. You pay all this money for such a small increase in performance" just shows you aren't receptive to feedback. From what I've gathered, you have a faulty mechanical drive, thus the ticking sound, and that faulty drive is screwing up the rest of your systems performance. Even if the HDD is NOT your boot drive, if it is faulty, it can cause problems. I have personally experienced this myself. Otherwise, ticking is a mechanical thing. It could be a fan, or other moving part. Nothing else could be attributed to a "tick" sound. Sometimes there's coil whine, but that doesn't seem like it's likely.

Intel does benefit from higher memory speeds (there are benchmarks out there) but 6000 is good for both, is cheap and available, and likely to be compatible with most chips and motherboards. Intel seems 6400 is a sweet spot but not necessarily worth the money

i thought 6000 was the sweet spot for Ryzen and Intel is around 6400

Well the new GPUs are just faster, so that would be your advantage

If your'e buying new, 6800XT isn't really worth the price. They are going for around $700 again, and for that money you should just get a 7900XT. I would personally buy into the new gen; older systems aren't really that cheap since people are just buying 5800X3D chips to slot into their old motherboards. If you can hold out, wait a few months and get a new system with a 7800X3D chip + B650, and possibly see a price drop on the 7900XT. DDR5 prices also continue to fall.

i wouldn't even consider 1.35v overvolting. It's standard fare for 3200+

Intel...the company that brought us the i7-11700k and the i9-11900k....both essentially the same CPU except one costs more

A friend of mine RMA'd a 5800X3D and was given a 5900X instead. kind of sucks but I guess they justify it based on value.

Going to assume your'e in the USA This is one of the affected "shenanigans" drives, but even post nerf, it's good enough. For the price, it's hard to beat. $119.99 https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-2TT-C/dp/B07TY2TN64 https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/adata-xpg-sx8200-pro-ssd,5955.html https://www.tomshardware.com/news/adata-switches-nand-on-sx8200-pro-ssd-performance-impacted PCIE3 only, DDR3 Cache, TLC flash. Jumping up to faster PCIE4 drives is $160+ at the same capacity. Other drives priced similarly are DRAM-less and/or QLC.

This board is not going to handle a 10900 very well. I can't say if that accounts for a 40% drop in gaming performance, which typically isn't a huge heavy CPU task anyway, but it def. is not going to unlock the full potential of even a locked i9. I would not consider unlocking power limits on this thing; undervolt if you can, get some positive airflow over those VRMs. I would actually consider selling the whole thing and going with something else. It's a very poorly mated combination.

For consumer purposes it's all UDIMM DRAM, even if they don't state it. XMP is technically overclocking, which needs more voltage to get the speed and settings in the profile. That said, in practice, it's your normal operation. Don't worry about 1.35-1.4v on DDR4. If it boots on XMP without any stability issues, stop worrying about it. There's an XMP profile for a reason. Come back to us if it has problems. Otherwise, carry on.