OutsideOctaves

icue is mainly for my PSU which is a corsair with the ilink or whatever it was called, but also for some of my RGB, and jusched is the java updater... And huion is for my Pen Display. Now, all I know atm is that I had all of this, that is running now on startup before and could be in within 30 to 40 seconds with little to no lag at all on bringing up the login screen. I'm wondering if a windows update broke the speed or if there may be a driver I've missed o.0; or perhaps I missed a setting?

Well, to update you guys on somethings: I found the Intel MEupdateTool's more up to date version... and that has speed things up a few seconds overall and made the system more snappy. I'm wondering now if there's something else I may have missed in driver/firmware updates that might help in speeding up the initial login time and such as well or if there are some windows settings that I may have forgotten about that might speed things along as well... hmmm (other than fast boot) Edit: Double-take WTF moment... Fast Boot was enabled in BIOS... o.0 *blinks a few times* Yea... Boot time was sped up just a bit with this as well, as well as log-in to 100% ready-to-use time being speed up by a couple seconds I think, I need to break out my timer next time but in all honesty I'm definitely on the right track. 2nd Edit: Timed it. From hitting the enter key to bring up the password entry for windows to fully usable (C drive is down to ~0% Active use): 1:12:41 From typing in password it's 58.64 seconds now. Somewhere I need to find that additional approximately 28 seconds roughly speaking... hmmm

LOL, yea... In the end, fast boot is off I believe, and has been since I learned about that earlier this year/late last year sometime. In fact, it used to have the login picture and what not show up almost instantly after hitting enter or sliding the screen up with the mouse, now it lags for a bit as well... hmmmm

Before I had a mostly usable pc in 30 or so seconds, and fully usable one in about 60 seconds... Now it takes about 60 to 90 seconds or so (rough estimation) to get a somewhat usable pc. Before I could run Firefox seconds after loggin in and get right to youtube... Now if I do that it bogs down the loading entirely, like... I have to wait a while before I can even run anything. And yes it's best to let it load but I'm just saying... I can't even run anything really until it's done now whereas before I could if I needed to. It's like suddenly I'm not running the system I was... even though the components are the same, and it's not that different other than a couple major updates.

I run Windows 11 on an Intel i9 9900K All core 5Ghz>2080 ti>16GB 3200Mhz DDR 4 ram>M.2 SSD system. I keep windows up to date. However a little while ago I got in on Windows insider. Being somewhat tech savvy this was a fun and interesting time, however the constant updates took their toll and I eventually opted out. I unsubscribed and turned on the off-ramp wait. That offramp came and went more than once. Not to mention that even though it was still "updating", it wasn't updating to the latest major builds now that I was opted out. So after months I finally bit the bullet and did a clean install of windows 11. I went through, got the same programs and games installed, updated windows, got the major drivers updated and well... Now the time it takes to go from login to 100% ready to use is over double what it was before I did a clean install. I'm running the exact same programs as before on startup, no differences there. I also re-downloaded WinAero Tweak and went through a few options there to take care of Cortana and windows spying. However that didn't really help. I've also noticed that programs are taking longer to load as well. So much so I checked my BIOS to make sure it was still set to all core 5.0Ghz and yea nothing changed there. So what happened? With a clean install and update it should be running the same if not slightly faster. And yet it's lost it's snappiness in all regards, even web pages are a little sluggish o.0 Here's a couple snapshots of my startup items:

OK, I found a few things that make sense: Windows was misreporting the CPU, CPU-Z (which thanks for the shout out, but I'm nerd enough to know about that one already as I had him go for that when he could and ...) He actually has an i5 4590. I thought it would be that it was misreporting but at the same time, I thought I'd check. I've heard of come CPUs fitting in sockets not meant for it and running but with... substandard results and crashes so that's why I thought to ask about it. Thanks for the information though. I've given him instructions on how to unzip the prime95 latest build and do a quick test with it. If it crashes here because of high temps then that's our culprit... being as old as it is, anyone else think a new application of thermal compound would be something to try before dolling out for a proper air cooled tower or AIO?... that is if it ends up being a heat issue... if it's the PSU well that's easy enough. Hope it's not a dieing CPU...

His motherboard is an old 2013 dell motherboard 490P1, which info online seems to state that it's an 1150 socket, whereas his CPU is reported by windows as the N3700 which by info I can find online seems to be a 1170 socket. His PC runs (sometimes for hours) and will randomly shut off according to him, though it seems to me via conversations that any time it gets taxed it will crash. That told me originally that either the CPU is overheating or the PSU is dying... among other possibilities. But when I did the research, those two socket types came up and ... if LGA1170 fits into an LGA1150 and could run, but would have issues then that may just be the issue solved potentially if it hasn't fricasseed the motherboard. Any opinions on this? UPDATE: (I updated most of the relevant information below) His CPU was a 4590 so it's an 1150 socket. That whole thing of 1170 was windows misreporting as per usual...

Wow, found it with that software, even allowed me to deleted it! THANK YOU! Oh man, was beginning to think I'd have to move all my data off C (the stuff worth saving) and then format and reinstall 10 and upgrade again to 11 lol. (I upgraded from 10, no 11 install). Strange thing is I went to the location with File Explorer... wasn't there. So again, nice bit of software, thanks! Essentially, the network drive is just on another pc in the room. I have the network folder icon for it in My PC and from there can navigate into it for saving and what not. In fact both HDDs in that pc are linked on My PC. Never had a problem moving it with Windows' copy/paste or drag and drop. This is the first time I've encountered this issue. Strangeness.

New to TeraCopy so I know I did something wrong here, and that was ignoring the Space Needed warning at the start of the operation, I needed an extra 35GB... I'm trying to copy an 80+GB folder from my E drive to a network storage drive with over 300GB left. I started the copy operation with TeraCopy and it automatically came up blinking and said that I needed 35 more GB of space. I thought at that moment it just wasn't reading the capacity left on the network storage drive correctly for some odd reason so hit ignore and it started the operation and got a ton of files "copied" or so I thought... it hit a point where it just couldn't copy anything larger than a few MB for some reason so I looked at "This PC" and my C drive had been filled up o.0. Needless to say this perplexed me. I check the target drive to make sure and it was targeted at my "H" drive on the network ... I stopped the operation entirely and looked for the copied files on my H drive... the folders were never created and nothing was added to it at all. C drive was full, but I can't find the folder anywhere on it. So I'm guessing there's a temp folder somewhere that it was writing to or something and I just need to find that and delete it and try again with different settings or something? Genuinely perplexed here. I'm sure it's just something simple I either overlooked or just didn't know.

OK, To close off this topic: I FIGURED IT OUT... OMG I'm such a ... Linus. ... No, I didn't drop anything (except my temps... *burn!*). But The issue seems to be my IHS... and my super thin application of thermal paste this last time. You see, this time not only did I go for the Kingpin KPX (finally got in in after a week of waiting from amazon seller that had high ratings for their speed... :rolleyes: , but I also went and after spreading it thin like last time I put an extra (tiny, less than a quarter of a pea) on the center... and after some faffing about with the nuts falling into the pc again, I got it tightened down... I even went past "just past tight" to push it as closed as it could be so to speak. Here I went to the bios and checked that I was in 5.0 with 0 AVX offset... and forgot something here but that's for in a min. I saved and reset. After closing everything that loads up with windows for me and getting some background stuff I'll need to uninstall out of the way, I ran HWMonitor and Cinebench r23... and got my highest scores ever and my lowest temps ever while under load on both Multi and Single Threaded runs! I even got my max temp lowered to 82 ON 2ND RUN! Yea, I don't know what happened over time to the thermal pad I had on it, but even though it worked great originally it was not working anymore... then my first attempt at pasting this system in years... when I pulled off the cold-plate today, it BARELY had any contact... I mean even made me wonder how in this last week I could even game without it maxing out the temps, it was THAT bad... thank god I pulled it off today. On repasting it with KPX today instead of AS5... I got the coldest temps ever and found out my IHS is concave... It was that simple. Now how my pad of icy diamond worked originally but lost out over time is a mystery for me. But I have a working layer of paste now, and I know my cooler is working fully still! yay. Thanks for any ideas and help that anyone gave, despite it being as simple as repasting... Oh, and that setting I forgot to check... the Voltage was not set at my usual "this is my stable place" setting of 1.320... I had it at 1.280... which wasn't a stable place to be, it was just a test from earlier this week when I was still troubleshooting things. And yet it runs perfectly stable at this with everything else set as was. Yea, I know that this is part of why it's running cooler than ever but still, kpx has allowed me somehow to get a stable undervolt of my usual stable place... that was just at stable with my pad and with any paste before. Yet now 1.280... makes me wonder if I've got a chip that will go lower and still stay at 5.0 or perhaps push harder to 5.1 or 5.2... or such... but that's for a later date. Thanks again.

Well, to make things even stranger. I went into XTU and played with my voltages again and got it down to 1.200 in one run, but then I tried lower and it went BSOD. Then on the next run of windows it would not stay stable anywhere near there. So I went back up to 1.280 eventually, and that is where things stayed stable. Then I went to my Cashe and turned it down to 42 and found it didn't increase stability so back to 45. Then I started playing with offsets again. I wanted to see if it was going to do the same as before, and force me all the way down to 3.6Ghz again with minimum temp. differences, or if I'd get a different result. Strangely, around an AVX offset of 9 I was getting temperature reductions to under 100 again. I set it to 10 and I was consistently 96C or less. For the moment it seems an offset of 9 is the "butter zone" of not hitting 100+C but allowing at least above 4.0GHz for AVX instructions, if only by 100MHz. Now the question is, why is it being like this 2 years in. I watched the temps, and it's cooling off mega fast after the test is concluded, so the pump seems to be working on that front. (I mean, given that I'm running the fans and AIO at 100%, but still...) So it's just saturating quickly and stabilizing by around the end of the test (I could run it longer and of course it would continue a bit of a rise but I'm just going on single runs for the moment). Hmmm, could it be that the Arctic Freezer II (Mark 1?) just isn't up to the task long term for one reason or another? But strange still that last time I did this battery of tests I couldn't get the temps to come down at all really till I was running all core 3.6Ghz, and then this time I could get temps to actually come down a good bit overall at an offset of 9 to 10. I mean I did blow it out again, and not much dust came off of it at all (it's been a good few days now). However when I took a fan off, it was as clean as it could be so yea not much dust was there to begin with today, and the tiny bit that came out wouldn't cause it to hold THAT much temperature. I mean I know dust can do that, but usually it's a good layer of it that causes that, this was like perhaps just those few days worth of dust that had re-collected on it. So I doubt it was blowing it out again that caused it to suddenly start cooling things under AVX load... strange indeed. At least I was able to get some degrees off of it at max. While the other cores that weren't maxing out in temp were substantially lower doing anything from 50's to 80's under load so... strange indeed. More to chew over.

Thank you, but I've already tried that. It wasn't doing this under AVX loads before hand, so I'm currious as to what could be done to achieve that same 5Ghz all core at 85C or less again with the same equipment if it is? I mean I'm running less voltage now, it was 1.320 I believe now it's 1.28 (lowest stable with everything in that video set as told). I even tried offsets that went beyond 4... even taking it back to stock clocks and it was still pretty hot. So I'm wondering at this point if something went wrong or what. hmmm...

Just a bit more information now. It's running ok (60's or less) when in anything non-avx. It's on OCCT or Cinebench that it goes this high. Games run fine, so I'm ok for now, but I'm just curious on what this could be?. If the pump is good, and fans are turning this shouldn't be an issue with this particular AIO, I mean I've had it at 5GHz and 85 or less with something half this size (a corsair h60 first gen I think) so I'm at a loss for what it could be without repasteing and trying again, but if it's transferring heat enough to keep it 60 or less during games, then that suggests that the paste is fine. I'm just at a loss atm. I mean I have ordered some KPX, but that won't be here for about a week so and won't help THAT much, so yea... at a loss... any more ideas to try? I am thankful for the ideas so far though. I mean, what could be doing this such that AVX loads push it that much harder and into 110+*C territory? hmmm

It's not clogged then as the tubes are all a neutral temp if a bit warm. I'm beginning to wonder if I have put too little on the spreading out of it.

I've got an Arctic Freezer II 240 (on an i9 9900k) and it had an Icy Diamond pad on it, until I noticed recently it's been hitting mid 90's on most cores, and 100+ on core 4. I went back to paste today, and spread it over the IHS in as thin a layer as I could get away with and still have it on the IHS (any thinner and the credit card would be removing the paste lol) (AS5 because it was what I had from previously), and it's doing the same thing. I went back into the bios, set everything back to how this video set it up: I have gotten a stable OC of 5.0GHz at 1.28 Volts and can't go any lower without stability issues. But even then the temps persist into the same territories. It's not until I throttle it all the way down to 3.6GHz that I start to see any lowering of temps. The thumb... nuts? (for lack of better words, it's not a screw so lol) are snug and just a little past but not so hard tightened as to cause damage to the threads or IHS. I'm at a loss for words here. I know that the i9 9900k runs hot and is "ok to run" at 90's+ under AVX loads but, I'd rather get back to the 80's I was seeing when I first put this in my system a couple of years ago. I know that evap can happen, but I want to doubt that that happens in 2 years to this level, plus it'd be making air-bubble noises if it had gotten that low. In fact I don't hear it run at all, but the fans do. That's the part that has me wondering, I mean it never made noise to begin with but had good temps... however I don't know of any way to know that it is running. I do notice the air is moving, but it's not pulling hot air off the radiator like it should be for heat of this level... ((edit: Strike that last part, after letting it run for more than 20 seconds it is moving warm air off of the rad. I just had to let the liquid saturate some DOH)) Is there any way to actually tell that the pump is running besides sound? I have the lead coming off of it hooked to the CPU_Fan header on my ASUS Maximus Hero XI WiFi. It's also mounted with the Rad at the top of the case, fans under it pulling the air through to pull cool air in through the fins of the rad. Oh, and it idles between 35 and 45, mostly around 42/43.