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About Kuarinofu

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  1. I have a basic issue when my 5.1 system will work perfectly fine when watching 5.1 surround sound films in VLC for example (connected with 3 separate 3.5 mm), but when trying to listen to any other video or audio in Chrome or foobar2000 in stereo the sub will never work, thus cutting all the low freq. I tried two different sound cards (mb built-in Realtek and pcie Xonar SE), tried the swap LFE/center options in drivers of both of these cards but sub still refuses to play anything and is completely silent. It works in Windows if I connect it through toslink but then my system loses true 5.1 since it has no 5.1 decoder on it's own. I can theoretically use two connections separately, one for films and one for other audio (just constantly swapping), but I just wanted to ask maybe someone had this problem and has already found a workaround. I searched the forum and found a similar one, but I've already used the bass swap driver option suggested there and it didn't work.
  2. Yea, I checked and it doesn't look good. Seems like AeroCool is selling these in bundles of 3 + a hub and a remote. I was unable to find this hub being sold separately anywhere yet.
  3. I got my hands on two 140mm AeroCool Edge 14 ARGB coolers. They have 6-pin connectors (but also an adapter with basic PWM connector, and two specific MB connectors I don't recognize). It looks like my MB (ASrock B450M Steel Legend mATX) is not quite compatible with 6-pin but I can still connect these fans through basic PWM and they will work I guess? I just won't be able to play around with RGB? I have an AeroCool case and I wanted to get AeroCool P7-H1 fan hub for it, but it seems like it doesn't really do much when using the fans I've mentioned since it has a bunch of 4-pins anyway? Should I even bother with the hub or should I just connect these fans through PWM connectors (via the adapter) and they will work (but with no RGB control)? I can't really test this now since I'm at work, just wondering if someone can clarify.
  4. I have Gammaxx 400 with an additional fan sitting on Arctic MX-4, two 140 front intakes and one back 120 exhaust. I also think (based on my OC shenanigans) that I can't really squeeze too much from my 7 1700 anyway. Thanks for the advice
  5. Meaning that I can boost CPU frequency and voltage even more and have a more reliable and cool system overall?
  6. I have an MSI B350 PC Mate ATX at home for my Ryzen 7 1700 (slight OC, 16 gb (4x4) 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX Black and a Gigabyte 1070ti). I also have 1 PCIe m.2, one SATA SSD (EVO 860) and a WD Black 1 tb. I bought ASRock B450M Steel Legend mATX for my work Ryzen 3 2200G (got it pretty cheap new from a tech reviewer on an online marketplace). I was wondering if I could achieve better performance for my Ryzen 7 1700 if I switch the boards? Or there won't be any noticeable difference? The ASRock mb has 2 m.2 slots but PCIe Gen3 one is kinda picky when it comes to SSD manufacturers and the other one is SATA (and it also disables one of the SATA ports to be operational). I have only one GPU and no other devices so I don't need the extra PCIe slots. So is it worth the hassle?
  7. Ukrainian secondary market is full of old server Intel CPU-based builds from like 2010 and 2011. People buy old server Intels like Xeon X5670 (also Xeon X5570 or even X3450) or desktops like i7-2600, pack it into a shiny RGB case, add 120 Gb cheapo SSD, GTX 1060 and the cheapest 500W power supply and try to sell these as "gaming beasts" (advertising it like 6 CORES 12 THREADS BEAST!). Besides all the old standards and connectivity options (like DDR3, USB 2.0 and stuff) I wonder if there's like any reason to buy these for like a work PC? It looks like a scam though since I doubt that an 8 y.o. server CPU even with 12 Gb DDR3 memory can handle frames for GTX 1060 and not choke the life out of it.
  8. The system works just fine without the SSD. And the SSD itself has no visible damage, I always try to use minimal force when installing something. It's also weird that after I understood that the M.2 enclosure was incompatible, I removed the ADATA one and tried to use my SATA M.2 with it and it worked just fine, no problems whatsoever.
  9. I used A-Data XPG SX6000 for some time. Then I decided to get something faster, so I switched SSD's and wanted to use this ADATA one as an external SSD. I bought Transcend M.2 SSD Enclosure Kit and tried to use it, but it didn't work (never showed up anywhere). It wasn't long until I realized that I've put PCIe M.2 SSD into M.2 enclosure that supports SATA interface only. Now here's a thing, after some time, I upgraded my work PC with a mobo that has two M.2 slots, so I wanted to re-use this ADATA SSD at work. When I put it in, I was first unable to format it under windows installation (from USB drive). Then it appeared in Windows and was working. I copied some files onto it but started experiencing heavy BSOD's (mostly CRITICAL_PROCESS_DIED). The system was fresh, so I did not know specifically what caused it. After a couple of such BSOD's and reboots the drive started disappearing after BSOD reboot and re-appearing after a normal one. So I figured either the drive or the slot was the issue. I had a Maiwo KT016 M.2 PCIe 3.0 x 4 Adapter Card, and when I used it I had no more doubts - the SSD wasn't working properly, couldn't be formatted in Windows, ADATA's SSD Toolkit was unable to get a proper reading from it and could not identify it at all as an ADATA product (so either slot failure or other incompatibility was out of the way). So, did I just kill my own SSD by plugging it in with SATA M.2 enclosure? Is this possible? If so, can I still try to restore it? And what tools should I use?
  10. Kuarinofu

    DAC question

    I hope it's fine. No, no additional stuff. It's fine now anyway, hopefully.
  11. Kuarinofu

    DAC question

    I tested it with my Edifier H880 (24 ohms) and the results were different, but not for long. Audio cuts were almost unnoticeable (very short), VLC worked just fine, but when I launched a game to test audio (Diablo III) these headphones started doing lots of crackling sounds (which were really scary, I was afraid it would hurt my headphones) but still worked. Then I launched Heroes of the Storm and in around 2-3 minutes audio started to cut again before going completely silent. Then I tried to run a video from YouTube and a track with AIMP but got an error message that the audio device was busy and the sound was gone until I restarted. - I followed some steps on DAC troubleshooting I found on Reddit, and it seems like this issue is almost gone. I might have to test this for some time anyway because I'm not sure what did it. I disabled all audio devices except the MX3, ran it through USB 2.0 (why did I plug it into 3.0 in the first place is beyond me), and adjusted Windows power saving settings not to power off USB temporarily. This is so weird.
  12. Kuarinofu

    DAC question

    I do, will try that, thanks!
  13. Kuarinofu

    DAC question

    This would've been the first thing I'd do, but the manual in the box was minimal and only available in Chinese (and on the website), and there are no driver or firmware updates on the site. There's just no FM to RT.
  14. Kuarinofu

    DAC question

    I've received used Sennheiser HD600 as a gift but my onboard audio (PC) clearly seems unfit to handle these. They sound ok but it feels like there is never enough loudness. I figured this was happening due to them having high impedance (300). I checked here and there around the internet for a good and very budget option drive these so I bought Topping MX3 DAC. I connected them through USB and listening to music works great, I know that this DAC is a cheap option (and there is more room for improvement with HD600) but I'm satisfied and I don't really need more. The issue is that I can't really use it for anything else besides music. YouTube videos play well but seeking always results in audio pausing for a couple of seconds and the DAC constantly clicking. VLC H264 *.mkv's audio lags hard and is unwatchable, playing with the settings doesn't help much. Audio in games just never works as it should, resulting in constant audio cut-outs (pauses) and short sounds don't even play. So here's the question: is this the intended way of this DAC to work? I mean, I get that it was designed for music and sort of constant audio flow, but is there really nothing that can be done to be able to use it as an external audio device just to drive my HD600? Like to eliminate audio cuts and pauses? Or it just can't work this way? I used to have ASUS Xonar Essence STU like 4 years ago and I never had such issues. I know it was much more expensive though. I tried to contact the guys I bought this DAC from and besides sending me a couple of drivers (none of which seemed fit for my DAC) they were not really that helpful.
  15. I live in Ukraine, I pretty much got this case for free, my old one is kinda tight for all of my stuff so I wanted to move, but I wasn't sure if my temps would be ok since I managed to do slight OC on my CPU, RAM and GPU.