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Con

Member
  • Content Count

    117
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Con

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1993-05-29

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Co#0001
  • Steam
    DJConal
  • PlayStation Network
    DJConal
  • Twitch.tv
    http://www.twitch.tv/djconal
  • Twitter
    http://twitter.com/ConalFawcett
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bristol, UK
  • Interests
    Computing, science (astronomy), sports, music, film making, acting & modelling.
  • Biography
    I do some things, from time to time.
  • Occupation
    Unemployed

System

  • CPU
    BX80648I75820K
  • Motherboard
    90MB0JG0-M0EAY0
  • RAM
    CMD16GX4M4A2800C16
  • GPU
    ZT-90503-10P
  • Case
    SGC-5000-KWN1
  • Storage
    MZHPV256HDGL-00000 & WD2002FAEX
  • PSU
    CP-9020008-UK
  • Display(s)
    XB271HK, UE49KS8000
  • Cooling
    CW-9060009-WW/RF
  • Keyboard
    LeiJie K26 PS/2
  • Mouse
    Mad Catz R.A.T.TE Mouse
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64

Recent Profile Visitors

936 profile views
  1. Bump: To simplify: I'm going to use 980 Ti SLI for 3 monitors and a VR headset, maxing out the 4 display limit. If I add a HEVC supporting card that supports at least 2 more screens, could I add two more screens to show up as 5 monitors (plus VR) in Windows? I'm looking for card suggestions too. It literally only needs to be able to play HDR10+ 2160p24 movies, preferably supporting 60fps.
  2. Instead of getting a 1080 Ti or 2080 Ti, I decided to just get another 980 Ti for SLI, since it's cheaper to do and performs well. The first world problem I have is they don't have HEVC, and since I got 3 monitors on the desk with a HTC Vive, I can't use the TV at the same time because that would be 5 monitors when the card supports 4. Usually I just drag movies onto the TV to play, but I was looking to have at least one actual HDR10+ output card. If I have 3 monitors and a VR headset on the 980 Ti, I could have a HDR10+ supporting card for outputting to the UHD HDR10+ TV, maybe connect it to one of my CRT TVs too via an adaptor. Would Windows recognise 5 monitors this way? Plus the VR headset as well. Any recommendations for the most basic HDR10+ UHD supporting card for playing movies on would be much appreciated, especially if it supports at least 2 HDMI outputs so I can convert one to SCART.
  3. Hello. I'm looking to start a fun project of buying broken AIO coolers for parts and sticking them together. They have usable CPU block pumps, hoses, radiators, fans. I was wondering what sort of adaptors or compression fittings I might need to, let's say, cut into a H100i hose and stick it into a GPU block, or another radiator in another part of the case. I'm interested in getting my hands dirty and experimenting with broken stuff to make a Frankenstein custom loop out of AIO. Here's one I've got in mind currently: H100i CPU block pump to H100i hose, to H100i radiator, to a severed H100i hose with the end stuck into a different radiator, then along a hose into a GPU block, then along a different hose into another radiator on the bottom of the case, then along yet another hose back into the CPU block. H100i CPU Block Pump > H100i Radiator > Radiator > GPU block > Radiator ⏎ If I have issues trying to eradicate all bubbles I could put a reservoir in there somewhere. I've seen video tutorials where they use those metal zip ties for better reassurance, but I was wondering if anyone from this community would have some good tips for me, before I get on it. I'm thinking about fittings, part sizes, how to take measurements to know what will fit what, how to make what fit what if something isn't so simple. If this works, the price difference between it and buying custom water cooling parts might be huge. Any help is always appreciated.
  4. I want to design some furniture in SketchUp using panels of wood (or any durable enough material) and connect them together with notches, with part numbers engraved on them as a bonus. I've seen some websites that allow you to send a software file and they'll cut wood to your specification, but they don't seem to have prices on them. Is there any supplier anyone can recommend me to send my notch cut panel designs to? I want the panels delivered to my address so I can stick them together. Any help is much appreciated.
  5. Just had an unhelpful exchange with NVIDIA customer service. It's kind of funny. Customer Conal Fawcett via CSS Web04/27/2018 08:36 PM Staff Account Harish via Email04/28/2018 07:10 AM Customer Conal Fawcett via CSS Web04/29/2018 05:30 AM Getting patronised with "it shows clearly" and "All displays much have a common resolution" as if Harish didn't read my message or understand what 1080p and 2160p is, when I mentioned it works with my 2160p TV and 768 pixels high is obviously not the maximum of a 1080p or 2160p screen, as if he also doesn't know that a 2160p monitor would obviously go in 1080p mode and I clearly indicated such. Oh well. The GeForce forums have been more constructive, telling me things about sync-polarity and stuff I've never heard of before. This is really frustrating because the monitor was marketed with NVIDIA G-sync and a zero bezel design (as if it was made for spanning), only to flop with NVIDIA Surround.
  6. I was really excited about your solution, but it didn't work! >_< Screenshot: Edit: Even in 2x1 mode it still goes to 768 pixels high, no matter what I select. It's only the XB271HK and no other monitor that's having this problem.
  7. I've just tried that, signed out, same result. It will only allow 3072x768 in Nvidia Surround. They can all go in 1920x1080 mode, but it's not letting me span them as 1080p screens. Edit: Interestingly, when I select every monitor except my middle XB271HK, it will allow for triple 1080 then, and the 3.SAMSUNG is a 2160p display. Edit 2: I then changed the 2160p 3.SAMSUNG TV into my primary monitor and tried selecting the 3 desk monitors; same result. It's something about my 4.XB271HK that won't go in 1080p mode for surround
  8. Hello. Here's a screenshot of my desktop: The KS8000 TV (Monitor 2) on the far left can be ignored. I have a 1080p screen, a 2160p screen & another 1080p screen on the desk. Eventually I will have 3 of the same 2160p screen on the desk, but for now I have two 1080p wing monitors (left and right of the middle monitor). For some reason, when I try to span the desk monitors (3, 1, 4) together in 1080p mode to make 5760x1080, it doesn't work. In the NVIDIA Control Panel I go; 3D Settings > Configure Surround, PhysX > Span displays with Surround ... Then I select the 3 desk monitors, but it only allows for me to span them as 3072x768, which looks pretty bad. Is there no way to span three monitors as 1080p if the middle one is 2160p? Screens & specs: XB271HK ~DP UE49KS8000 ~HDMI E2710HDS ~DVI-D 24+1 S2309W ~DVI-D24+1 (to DP) 980 Ti (latest drivers) 5820K (4.2GHz OC) Any help is much appreciated!
  9. Do you think I'd be able to squeeze in an NVMe drive into this budget with the rest of the hardware being able to take advantage of it and perform tasks very quickly? Second hand or refurbished parts being allowed & encouraged.
  10. You're right in saying SATA SSD is fast enough, it's just I was thinking that with the budget available I wanted to build the fastest thing possible, ignoring the case & storage drive. That looks pretty good! I'll have to look up more of it's specs.
  11. That's a very good find! Thank you. I'm going to look for stuff a bit faster though, but that's a great option. I want to go M.2 because I am lead to believe that it has a higher transfer rate than SATA III and thus a single SATA SSD could be outperformed by an M.2 drive. I have had a MZHPV256HDGL-00000 since it was first leaked and the benchmarks were awesome. Am I wrong in believing having an M.2 in the budget (instead of SATA SSD) would make it faster? I'm not using the old HDD for storage, it's dying, however I am able to get another HDD for this build so there's no need to consider the storage drive.
  12. You are right, having looked this up again I've found M.2s are still expensive. I have found these cheap looking M.2 SSDs online, what do you make of them? Obviously can't go for two of them at this budget. When I remove the case and HDD, it's £362.37. Not bad. I like the choice of RAM, M.2 and CPU. I'm sure second-hand or refurbished options could bring it down more. I like this build, I might go for it. Maybe £145, depending on where you get the memory. That's fair enough, if it costs more then it's good for me to know. I'll pay more for it, I want them to have something that is a pleasure to troubleshoot with and that is future proof. Windows 10 x64 is a prerequisite for this build, that's why it's in the original post. Those are some really good part choices, I'll keep them in mind. I will need a HDD, although I can donate one of my 7200RPM 2TB ones. I'm absolutely getting second-hand parts. They wouldn't have any appreciation for looking inside the case beyond when I give them the new machine and they never look inside it again. 8GB is a good idea.
  13. I had thought of adding an SSD, but with £200 I think the most you could do to this machine wouldn't beat what you could do with creating another machine. I think I'll up the £200 quite a bit because I can put money towards this as well. The motherboard doesn't support more than 4GB of what seems to be DDR2. Would you be able to recommend me anything with those specs at near the budget? Since I'll put money to it as well.
  14. My grandparents have an old Windows 7 x86 eMachines PC, of which the hard disk is slowly dying. I have to keep troubleshooting every now and then, when they install unwanted software and I'm sick of fixing a really laggy machine. When they click on things while the computer is busy, they sometimes keep clicking and make it worse. I already upgraded their RAM to the best speed/size their motherboard can support, but the CPU is cheaper than a McDonald's Happy Meal toy and the HDD seems to be degrading. Originally I wanted to do a little niche thing and build a new computer inside their case, but it has port holes instead of a back-plate, so it would need a dremel & file, which I don't have at the moment. I convinced them to get a new computer, and I know speed is going to be important for this. I will find a case AND 'secondary' storage drive (HDD), they're not part of the budget! The initial budget is over £200; they were surprised at how cheap that sounded, so I can probably convince them for more; it will be worth it in the end since it would do the few tasks they use it for very efficiently, without them impatiently clicking on stuff and making it worse. Here is what it's going to be used for: Windows 10 x64 YouTube at 1080p60 Office 2016 x64 (mostly Outlook) Google Chrome Spider Solitaire (I'm going to try getting the Windows 7 version to work in it) Chess game software, for Online multiplayer Reading SDs from a digital camera. Be able to run multiple programs at once and switch between them flawlessly, as if they keep opening things and then forgetting to close them. Here's what I'm thinking: M.2 storage, maybe even M.2 in RAID-0 Enough file space for about 128GB on C:/ system & 500GB on D:/ storage (the storage drive isn't part of the budget consideration). An APU or Intel equivelent, since they won't be playing Steam games, but if they ever try a PC game then so long as it runs, that's good enough. Could always add a GPU in future if they grew a taste for games. 8GB DDR4, just because this is a modern computer that should just run basic tasks really fast, speed is core to this build. A cooler that keeps it cool, I doubt they'd be able to hear the fan no matter how loud it was, so we could even get an overclockable processor if that will give it noticeably increased performance. But you get the basic idea? It's a need for speed. Second-hand or refurbished parts. Things not in the budget: The case, I'll find one. The D:/ storage, I've got something to donate for that. Any peripherals what so ever. Things in the budget: Processor Motherboard RAM, 8GB DD4 System drive, M.2 NVMe 128GB (if that's too unreasonable for the budget, a SATA SSD will suffice) PSU SD Reader, on the front panel. So you might be wondering, why £200? Why so fast for people who don't use the computer for resource demanding tasks? It's because I'm trying to give them a better introduction to IT by having a system that just responds immediately to these basic tasks, when the computer boots up it could be immediate, when surfing the internet or loading programs, I want it to take less than 3 seconds, because it's really frustrating doing those things on a slow machine and having to re-optimise it. I've attached some pictures of what they've got for now. Eventually I'll donate them a big 27" 1080p60Hz monitor or something, then scale on that resolution to make it easier to read, other than that the peripherals are good so all this budget is going to strictly focus on what goes in the tower itself (I'll get a free case from somewhere, so that's not a consideration). Any help is much appreciated!
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