Kitsan

Solder was different to intel, I applied Liquid Metal twice and it was very slow to break it down. So I used a razor in the end.

There is no scoring to the surface, it’s the remaining solder.

I’m a bit too tired to put it in my system tonight, but hopefully will have an update tomorrow.

My sister has a Corsair H100 hand-me-down from about 10 years ago, that's still going strong.

However, with matters like this, it's unpredictable. I had a 280 ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II which lasted 1 week before the bearing in the fan on the block started buzzing and broke.

It largely depends on the CPU and what you'll be doing it. If you're buying a 13900K to earn money with every day, it might be worth getting a big AIO from the latest generation for example. 

Maybe try a contact frame first and then gradually work your way through it. I have done direct die before and it wasn't much of an improvement, I imagine this is because the heat pipes on the outside aren't able to contribute as much as they could. Air coolers are designed to absorb heat over a larger contact area.

EDIT: just seen the reply confirm you have one, I would just run an AIO or custom loop in that case.

Delidding was very easy, literally only took 5 mins. 
 

Removing the solder residue and then I’ll see if my AIO will fit.

Direct-die is never a great idea in the last few generations for daily use. It doesn't worry too much if I break the CPU as ill still have my 5900X, it's part of the risk in the process.

I want to do it for the sake of it (I enjoy this kind of thing) and also to have a quieter fan curve since the 4090 Strix will be dumping a lot of extra heat into the case.

So I'm more interested in what I have to do?

My understanding from the reading I've done is that the Z height of the 7000 die is lower than 5000 series, so it has a 1.7mm thicker IHS. Therefore I should be able to use the Thermal Grizzly frame https://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products/583-ryzen-7000-direct-die-frame-en to help protect the die, obviously, it won't do as good a job but it'll help with the lopsided nature of the 5800x3d die.

My main concern is that the ASUS Ryujin 360 II won't be able to go low enough to make proper contact with the die.

I'm thinking about buying a 5800X3D to replace my 5900X as i'm getting a 4090 soon, all I use my PC for is gaming.

While I have both CPUs, I was thinking about direct die on the 5800X3D and I was wondering if I need to buy anything specifically to do it?

(I have done direct die before on Intel but not AM4)

I was going to use my current ASUS Ryujin 360 II but I do have all the parts except the CPU block for a 360+420 loop if need be since I don't think i'll be upgrading for a couple of years after this.

I tried it in another case (Meshlicious and Asus Helios) and it has the same issue, i've only had the board for 9 months so I guess I will need to do a claim

I was testing out my motherboard to make it ready for sale, and I noticed that when all USB hub connectors are in place it won't post!

I narrowed it down to the USB C connector, is this a known issue?

24 minutes ago, DarkEnergy said:

Keychron K2

Looks good, but isn't that only Bluetooth 5.1?

What about the NuPhy Air75?

1 hour ago, rikitikitavi said:

Logitech Lightspeed G715, 915 TKL.

Bigger than 75 but Logitech’s wireless is great.

 

Why change of hearts with 60?

Yeah that's not really what i'm looking for though sorry

Just want to try a 75%

Hi,

I want to replace my current 60% with a new wireless 75% keyboard, as I have a lot of wires trailing my desk now I work from home and have to run a laptop too.

I was wondering what's out there that I should consider, as I don't know much about the current market. Any suggestions?

I would prefer wireless (2.4GHz...etc) rather than bluetooth

I would like as the battery life to be as long as possible

Ideally, with a type C charger like my other wireless peripherals

53 minutes ago, Blai5e said:

Absolutely.

Okay, i've ordered one. You weren't kidding when you said it wasn't cheap!

2 minutes ago, Dk-Rampage said:

ok i have 3 of those cables but i just wanted to know if i could use 2 or need 3 of them

Okay, as I mentioned earlier you can use two but I don't know why you would if you have three...

Just now, Blai5e said:

@Kitsan - ‎I use riser cables by LINKUP Technology Inc. I bought my first directly from LINKUP and is in use with my 3090 GPU. The second one came with the EKWB Vertical GPU Holder EVO which I have connected to my 4090 GPU. Not exactly cheap but I've had zero issues with either cable so far.

Did they both work in 4.0 mode?

At this point, I just want something that works, so I don't mind about the price.

8 minutes ago, Budget DIY said:

You've mentioned traveling with your pc. Over time, the old riser might have gotten loose? Have you tryed the old riser thingy again, after you confirmed all the other hardware was fine?

My old cable did and still does work fine. I can't use it in a full tower case as it's shaped differently.

I have moved to a new case and tried two different 4.0 risers.

Both failed.

The most logical fix is to buy another PCI-E cable, try contacting Phanteks.

I'm shocked that a 1200W PSU would also ship with only two PCI-E cables.

To answer your question directly. It will work fine with two cables, with one occupying two slots. Just don't overclock it/increase the power limit in apps like MSI Afterburner.

I had the 4.0 version of the meshify and had 0 issues.

I have changed to a full tower as I no longer need to travel with my PC. I'm hoping to snag a bargain used 13900K when the X3D parts come out and a 4080/4090 when prices become a bit saner.

I have purchased two different 4.0 riser cables/vertical brackets:

EZDIY-FAB Vertical PCIe 4.0

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09WTQB3GN?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

NZXT Vertical 4.0 GPU Mounting Kit

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0B4HJSH49?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Both have issues.

The NZXT worked. Then randomly, the screen flashes black, and sometimes green and pink square flashes.

The EZDIY was working fine for about 36/48 hours. Then my system became more unstable to the point where the system couldn't even find the boot drive. I thought this was a virus and reinstalled windows. This didn't do anything, so I decided to try the system without the riser, and it has worked flawlessly since.

Is this bad luck, or are PCI-E 4.0 risers still pretty terrible?

Are there any high-quality risers I could try?

Or is it a case of just running risers in PCI-E 3.0 and keep waiting for someone to make better 4.0 risers?

Yes that's all I wanted to know thank you, it sounds like I might as well get the version 1 model.

What are the tripping issues?

I've done a fair bit of research, and there are comments about the first Thor being a downgraded Seasonic Prime, with a double ball bearing fan and poor heatsinks.

Does this apply to the Thor Platinum II as well, I'm struggling to find the changes between the original and the II?

I'm also wondering if Asus will release a new Thor class ATX 3.0-compliant PSU with PCIE 5.0 16 pins. Do you think it's likely given the II was only released last year?

I mean I literally typed that I know it runs hotter due to the v cache, I was asking if it was hotter than 5900X.

In an ITX build its harder to keep the peak temperature down, it leads to fans spinning up and down or setting a higher base RPM for them to run at constantly.

Not sure why you're so aggressively questioning me, I think you should log off for a while.

I have a 5900X currently in my ITX build but i'm thinking about moving to a 5800X3D as I only use it for gaming.

I have read that 5800X3D gets hotter than a 5800X, but I was wondering if it got hotter than a 5900X due to the V Cache causing slower heat dissipation?

Feels like a bit of a sideward step otherwise.

2 hours ago, jaslion said:

Hence why I said adapter. Just get a 200x200 vesa to 100x100 vesa adapter. The lx can comfortably handle a 9kg display and yours inst close to that.

Ahhh sorry, I didn't understand you.

Yes, that should work!

1 hour ago, e22big said:

I used Bewiser arm, some Chinese brand. It's fine but not the greatest thus far. If you get one, I suggest looking for something with a good vertical adjustment capability - and don't care too much about horizontal.

 

Actually, I would recommend looking for something with the stiffest horizontal adjustment you could find none at all even. Because of the wierd power cord placement of this monitor (it's at the opposite of DP and HDMI ports), you'll have some very limited horizontal adjustment regardless of the arm you used for this monitor (the power cord will keep pulling it back no matter what you do) 

 

On the other, a 43 inch monitor is pretty tall, you many want to pull it down to your face a lot more than you thought. Thus, vertical swing is a lot more important.

Yeah, that's pretty much my experience with my last stand, which is why I want to get a quality stand this time!

2 hours ago, IPD said:

https://vivo-us.com/collections/monitor-mounts/type_desk-mount+screen-size-compatibility_ultrawides-up-to-49

They look good but sadly seemingly not available in the UK, but I'll try to search further when I get home from work

3 hours ago, jaslion said:

I have an ergotron lx + adapter bracket for wacom cintiq 27 its a lot heavier than your gigabyte so plenty good

I just had a quick look and it seems to only support 100 x 100 VESA?