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sphbecker

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  1. I can't say I have used it, but this seems to be what you are looking for. https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-HD8061-Automatic-Switching-Switcher/dp/B01D3JE0MS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+auto+switch&qid=1574880800&sr=8-3 The only downside I see with an auto switch is that some devices like steaming TV device, don't have an easy way to turn them off, so you might be stuck manually switching or having to wait until it goes into low-power mode. You might be able to get around that issue by plugging such devices into whatever port has the lowest priority. Another thing you might consider if HDMI ARC isn't working, is to run an optical cable from the TV back to the soundbar. That has been the approach for over 10 years and should work very well. Just make sure both devices support it (starting to become less common).
  2. Sorry for trolling, my post was a reference to The Verge pc build video. But thank you for the suggestions! I actually need to look into some better tools.
  3. I would consider used. You can probably find something with a GTX 1050 or maybe even 1060 for that price. New, you are going to be stuck with crippling graphics.
  4. I am looking for a good Swiss Army knife that will hopefully have a philips head screwdriver. Planning on using that and some tweezers for my next PC build. Needs to be able to run Battlefield V.
  5. 1. Yes, that should work, but you will have to set the XBox audio settings to be compatible with the adapter. Keep in mind that a Toslink to 3.5 is a active adapter with a DAC, it will directly effect audio quality and might introduce a slight delay. It would be better to look for an interface or mixer that has a Toslink input (if possible, that might be hard to find without getting into too high of price points). 2. Same idea, but very different. The Line-in port on a computer is taking analog, converting it to digital, sending that into the Windows audio mixer and then back out to the audio out. A mixer does everything in real-time with no software or lag. 3. The Scarlett 2i2 has two inputs on the front that you can use for Left and Right, you just need the right cable, because they are pro-audio interfaces, this would work... https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1%2F4+ts+to+3.5+trs&qid=1574878654&sr=8-3 Having said that, the Yamaha is more general purpose and flexible. The Scarlett is for a more specific purpose and not really meant for what you are trying to do.
  6. Maybe I was using a bad calculator. The 1660 Ti is probably a closer pick for the GPU (that is what I did), but I agree that either will use less than a 1070.
  7. I bought an MSI Optix MAG271CQR a few months ago and am embarrassed to admit that I just discovered it was running a 60Hz (it was my first high refresh screen, so I didn't realize what I was missing). I changed the setting to 144Hz and can really see a difference! The only downside is that I sometimes notice a slight flicker in the screen, typically right as a game is starting. It is hard to describe, but it almost looks like the screen's brightness setting is rapidly flipping between 75% and 100%. I have noticed this in multiple games, but never at the Windows desktop. The screen is fine at 60Hz and fine at 144Hz 95% of the time. I don't have another 144Hz screen to test with. Any suggestions? GPU is a RTX 2070 Super with G-Sync enabled, monitor connected via DisplayPort cable included with it.
  8. Just wondering if resetting the firmware on your modem will have the same effect of temporary restoring your speeds. (there should be a small reset button that you have to hold with a pen). If it does, then there is something going on with your ISP...sadly, good luck getting support to believe you. The good news is that a modem reset does not require you to change any settings, it just means a ~10 minute internet outage.
  9. ASUS if you want tons of options and enjoy tinkering, Netgear if you want a more mainstream product that is probably a little easier to setup.
  10. I do not agree with this statement. Neither network stack was designed with 10G in mind. They are both designed to operate efficiently with little overhead and have no problem achieving both the bit/sec and pps its hardware is designed for. If you want to say that Windows is very chatty and sends out tons of wasteful broadcast packets, that is a fair complaint, but its network stack is fine.
  11. Very simple answer, go into the advanced properties of the Intel Wireless card and set the preferred band to 5ghz. That way 2.4ghz will still work if you take the computer to a location without 5ghz, but it will always connect to 5ghz when available. I am not sure why, but Intel adapters seem to have issues connecting to 2.4 even when 5 readily available. Note, you will need to set this setting again if you update your drivers down the road.
  12. Not sure if you considered his hard drives or 5 fans, but that setup needs about 380 watts, so once you factor in a healthy PSU buffer, 450 would be the minimum and leave very little headroom. 450 is fine if you are sure you will never add additional hardware or overclock. You don't want to push a PSU to its limit (especially not a cheap one). For this setup I stand by my 500 watt suggestion.
  13. 85+ is hot enough that the boost clock will suffer. I have a 2070 Super and noticed that clock speeds start to fall slightly at anything over 70c, once you get to 80c, they start dropping by a decent amount.
  14. The 7700k uses HyperThreading. Due to the way SMT (HT) works, it is very hard to truly measure performance bottlenecks. You will never max out those threads, it is basically impossible. I suggest disabling HT as a test, then see if you are getting 100% on any cores, if so, the CPU is probably the bottleneck. Keep HT turned on, it is a good thing, but if you really need to test performance, then turn it off for the test. Also, make sure you are using a tool that is truly measuring core performance. The Windows task manager has a tenancy to show even loads across all cores. Even worse, Windows will sometimes move a load between cores at such a rapid rate that any form of measuring becomes next to impossible.
  15. 500 watts is probably fine, but 550 or 600 gives you more headroom. Seeing that you already have the PSU, I would give it a try. If you buy new, look for 80+ Bronze. The basic 80+ cert is pretty relaxed and typically means it is a low-end PSU.
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