Pikatchu

Thanks for the advices. I have reset the BIOS to default and then gradually revert my settings back seems to have fixed the issue. It is weird, as it is back to the same settings as previously and the issue no longer exists.

I have recently moved my setup from an openbench to inside a case. The new case is Lian Li O11D mini, not the airflow one. After the transition, I notice my game started to having stutters, random frame pauses. Checking with the RiverTune software, it is confirmed that my frametiming is spiking. This issue did not exist, or at least not noticeable, when it is on the openbench. The game in question is F1 23, as it is the one I had time playing since the transition. I will update the post when I had time to test other games. What may have caused this issue to rise up now? Some background to the setups: 1) I have been running in an openbench setup for almost an year now. The decision to move it back into a case was because the machine needs to be on 24/7. Leaving it on an openbench will require cleaning more frequently, which for most of the time I am not home near the machine. 2) My specs are: NH-D15 cooling a Ryzen 9 7900X with offset bracket, RTX 3080 FTW3, 64GB DDR5 6000Mhz RAM, 4TB + 1TB NVME gen 4 SSD. Case configuration for the fans are 3 bottom intake, 2 side intake, 3 top exhaust. Fan profile for the fans are 2 side intake stay at a constant speed, only top and bottom row change base on temperature of GPU. 3) Temperatures during gaming Openbench - CPU: mid 70s Celsius; GPU: mid 60s Celsius; GPU Mem: low 80s Celsius (+15-20Celsius of GPU Core); Storage: 50 Celsius In case - CPU: low 80s Celsius; GPU: low 70s Celsius; GPU Mem: low 90s Celsius (+15-20Celsius of GPU Core); Storage: 54 Celsius My thoughts are the increase in temperature may have caused the increase in stuttering, but they are all within acceptable ranges.

It may be trying to boot into the broken OS that is in the drive. Check boot options from BIOS and make sure it is booting from the right drive.

Replaced it with the thermal pads, the VRAM temps are now at 84-86, much better.

Will layering the pads be bad? Or is it okay? I have some left over pads from the waterblock, though might not have the correct thickness

The stock ones are like a paste substance, not pads. Though, the paste is not runny like regular thermal pastes. It stays at its shape well. What kind of substance is this? Should I replace it with the same thing or pads? Because in order to replace it with pads, I will need to remove the paste like thing.

I have read others VRAM are all around 10 degrees of core temp, my is almost 30

Hey, I have notice the test was done with an undervolt profile, at stock it is 96-100C.

I have recently changed my 3080 from waterblock back to air cooled. All thermal substance were kept stock on the air cooler. My only concern is vram temps, hovers around 96-100C during gaming. Was this normal? I dont recall seeing it that high before. Other temps are in place and as expected.

I will be getting an higher wattage PSU to see if the issue resolves itself, not the 1600watt ones. If this third one still failed similarly, I will then be looking into changing my graphics card. The higher watt PSU will prepare me for the GPU swap/upgrade should it get there. Thanks everyone!

I see. What do you recommend I do now? For the power supply, I can get a higher wattage one and see. For the GPU... As far as PSU go, it is kind of weird the issue only appear after an year and half in. The second PSU should immediately begin having the same issue, if the PSU is not at fault.

How did yours got resolved? Was it still in warranty?

During high power loads, the computer will shut down. In order to restart it, I have to flip the switch on the back of the PSU before booting again. Otherwise, it will not start after the sudden shut down. EDIT: Underpowering the gpu or cpu will prevent this somewhat, which is what made me RMA my PSU. If it is a GPU issue, out of warranty, going to be a even larger expense.

I will be glad if you have any advice on troubleshooting this situation. But at the moment, I am out of ideas. I sort of prevented a weak power line issue with a UPS. A CPU platform swap, CPU Motherboard and RAM, cause I initially got a Lemon bundle. The only thing that have not been swapped in my system is the GPU. Case changes, cooler changes, did it all. The same thing happened even after I moved my living places.

Power efficiency, though not that significant compare to gold. I will still want at least plat rated. Hence the two PSU I had before.

Higher wattage PSUs?

https://www.microcenter.com/search/search_results.aspx?N=4294966654+4294822454+4294820812+4294820971+4294815960+4294821461+4294817002+4294817384+795+800+799+797&Ntt=&prt=&sku_list=&Ntx=&Ntk=all&Nr= These are the options I have. The microcenter is close to me so return is not a hassle. I will not get a PSU that is worst than plat rated.

If it is something else, not sure where to start looking for places of trouble. My CPU is left at stock, with minor overclocking on the GPU, +100mhz core. Another thing that may give pointers, the two PSU died at different locations. I have moved since the first one died. Though, both were plugged into an UPS since new. I have other systems plugging into the same UPS, though not as powerful as my gaming rig, did not experience the same PSU-dying issue.

The PC is already being plugged into an UPS. Specs are Ryzen 9 7900x with RTX 3080.

I just want to get something that I can forget about it for a long time. My current spec is Ryzen 9 7900x with RTX 3080, custom water cooling loop cools both. According to the ups its hooked up to, the system draws around 600watts. I have also been looking into upgrading the GPU to 7900XTX, or 4090. Still battling my own demon on whether Ray Trace performance is worth it.

After my second 750watt platinum rating psu have failed me over a year and a half of use, I am on the market once again for a new power supply. (Both units are RMAed. But after my second unit have faulted, I dont think 750watt is enough, or it is enough but on constant high stress.) Edit: The two psu that got RMAed are Corsair SF750 and Seasonic Focus PX750 I am debating on the flagships from EVGA, Corsair, or Seasonic. (T2, AXi, Prime TX) Price wise, for me, EVGA being most expensive at 650USD and Seasonic the least at 530USD I have read some articles and some users said Corsair are using thicker gauge wires compare to Seasonic, while EVGA T2 are very hard to find. Which one should I get? Are the Asus Thor II worth consideration?

I have found some time to drain the loop, then changed the fitting. It seems like outport of the CPU block is still generating air bubbles. I will probably buy a new block and see the results, thanks!

It has been running bubble free for the pass 3-4months, just recently it started to have bubbles again. No fluid changes or flushes for few months.

I have a Corsair CPU block for my AMD CPU. Recently, I have notice air bubbles building up from my custom loop. The inlet side of the block is clear and bubble free, but the outlet side have air bubble escaping. As time goes, more and more bubble appear. Is this due to a dirty block? Do I need to just flush the block? Or I have to dissemble the block and clean it?

Looks pretty balanced out for me. In terms of bottlenecks, it comes down to what type of games do you play. For graphic intensive games, the RX6800 will peak before your 12400 will. General ball park for paring GPU and CPU are (Same "generation"): i5/Ryzen 5 for anything 50-70 class cards; i7 i9/Ryzen 7 Ryzen 9 for 80-90 class cards. By this, you should be getting an i7 with the RX6800. However, since you have to downgrade your GPU to upgrade your i5 to an i7, I will suggest to just keep the i5 and rx6800.