jubuttib

Cheers for the responses guys. Right, so I was expecting that sensing and ID are separate, since the devices don't get fully disconnected, and still show up on USBDeview. (Though they have names there, so still ID'd?) Sounds like that bit was correct. For now I'm testing a layout where one of the USB hubs I'm using is connected to a PCI-E USB extension card with its own controller by using a USB 3 extension cable. So far so good, fingers crossed, knock on wood etc. etc. The one thing that still really boggles the mind for me, is that I've had this issue with the USB dongle (or other device, including powered devices) affecting a seemingly totally separate USB controller's device. Like I attach the dongle to a front panel USB 2.0, and two of the (lowest power draw, btw) devices on a rear panel USB Type-C port disappear. Is there a good way to see which device is going to which USB controller? I'd really like to dig deeper into the damn roots of this thing.

Thanks for the response! Wouldn't this make the devices disconnect, rather than just disappear from listings? The devices that disconnect are also primarily using the Type-C ports, which I tend to think of as generally being able to provide more power. Might be wrong about that.

Running into some issues that are really weirding me out, and making flight-simming difficult: My flightsim controls consist of the following separate USB devices: -VKB Gladiator NXT EVO joystick base -VKB MCG Pro joystick grip with VKB T-Rudder Mk.IV rudder pedals (a bit weird yeah, but the grip and pedals attach to the same black box, and I'm not using the base of the joystick intended to be used here, so base and grip+rudder are two separate USB devices) -K51 Collective unit, running on Virpil hardware -Thrustmaster TWCS throttle -VKB SEM+THQ+FSM-GA side controller (lotsa buttons and levers, one USB device) -Custom buttonbox using a Leo Bodnar BBI-32 buttonbox interface -Custom buttonbox using a Leo Bodnar BBI-64 buttonbox interface -Custom add-on controls for the collective using a Leo Bodnar BU0836X joystick interface -2x Thrustmaster Cougar MFD button frames (these ones I don't always connect) At times when I plug the devices in (most often the first 8 devices I listed, not the MFDs), not all of them show up. Most commonly the BBI-32 and BBI-64 stay hidden, as well as the Cougar MFDs. "Hidden" is a keyword: They devices do connect, there's that normal "Windows plugging in a USB thing" sound, but they don't show up under Game Controllers, DIView, Joystick Gremlin, listed in any games (like DCS)... If I unplug them, Windows plays the disconnect sound, and if I plug them back in, the connect sound is played. Now, if I unplug something else, like for example in the USB dongle of my wireless media keyboard, the devices suddenly appear in the lists (in the past it's happened with a KVM, a keyboard dongle, a mouse dongle, and some other devices I can't remember right now)! Beyond the disconnect sound of the dongle being unplugged, there are no connection sounds to indicate that a new device has been connected or anything like that. If I plug the dongle back in, the devices disappear again. I've even checked with USBDeview (from NirSoft), and the Bodnar devices are there after the dongle is plugged in, they're just not being listed in anything that's supposed to list game controller type devices, for whatever reason. I don't feel like I'm hitting a device limit either as such. If for example I'm in a situation where I only see the BBI-32 and BBI-64 with the dongle unplugged, I can still plug in the two MFDs and a PS4 controller via USB, and they'll show up as normal. If I then plug in the dongle, some of the devices disappear. I remember a situation, where I had all 10 devices plugged in, and plugging in the dongle made the Cougar MFDs disappear, but the BBI-32 and BBI-64 showed up. If I then unplugged the MFDs, the BBI-32 and BBI-64 ALSO disappeared... The most likely thing I can think of is some kind of weirdness of the USB controller when plugging stuff in. The devices primarily plug into a few USB hubs: One hub has the joystick base, collective and the BU0836X attached to it, and plugged to one of two front USB 3.0 headers (mobo connected), the other front USB 3.0 has another 4 port hub with a Logitech G502 dongle, Xbox wireless controller adapter and the media keyboard dongle on it (as well as one port supplying power to an LED head tracker), and one front USB 2.0 is used for the joystick grip+rudders. The Bodnar BBI-32, BBI-64, Thrustmaster TWCS and VKB SEM+THQ+FSM-GA connect to another USB hub that's connected to a USB Type-C plug on the back of the motherboard, and finally the MFDs connect to another hub that's plugged into a USB Type-C, this one attaching to an internal header on the mobo. So all are running into motherboard USB connections, among lots of others (keyboard, USB audio interface, drawing tablet, DAS, Steam controller dongle, USB fan controller, webcam, StreamDeck, and probably something else I'm forgetting about...), with a few USB devices on PCI-E extension cards, which host Rift related things (headset USB, sensors, etc.), probably asking quite a lot... Haven't been able to find anything about this kind of behavior online, anyone able to help me figure this goddamn thing out?

OK, would appear that CHKDSK got it, fingers crossed... Still not fully up to working speed (normal on my computer after an update/fix like this to take a while to get to working perfectly) but at least I'm getting task bar, programs showing up as expected, etc.

Oh, and I can't do Windows Updates either, in Safe Mode. It just comes up with "Something went wrong. Try to open Settings later."

Heya, installed a Windows update earlier, and ever since my computer won't start properly. Iirc it was a .net update. Running Windows 10: Sign in screen comes up normally, and I can put in my password just fine. After signing in, I get a black screen on all 3 monitors, mouse is visible and moves. If I hit Win button, start menu opens, and I can start things there, but they're not visible. No task bar visible. If I hit ctrl alt del, I get the blue screen and options, can start task manager, but it's not visible. The programs do start and run, if I hit alt tab I can swap between them and see what they're doing. Seems like stuff that's supposed to run with windows mostly don't. I see in the alt tab menu task manager lots of processes (can't tell exactly what because they're tiny), but things like my keyboard's software (lights are off), my audio drivers (no sound) or my streamdeck (no button icons) aren't starting. What I've tried so far: Booting to safe mode works, with and without networking. Repair on startup does nothing (says it can't fix the computer). Reverting to earlier system restore point doesn't work (fails to extract original copy of some directory). I've uninstalled my GPU drivers with ddu, no effect (same behaviour, lower resolution) Starting to run out of options. I guess I could try rolling back windows updates, but after that I can mostly just think of resetting windows...

Heya, been having this issue for some months, where after a restart Windows 10 64-bit, fully updated, launches some programs during start-up, while others don't get launched, and I can start some manually while not others. This lasts for about 20 minutes, after which everything comes alive. Short list of issues I can remember off of the top of my head, during startup: Some programs start after logging in, while others don't. I thought I had a screenshot of the apps, but that seems to be missing... Examples of programs that start with no problem: iCue, StreamDeck, Nvidia Broadcast, DisplayFusion, BackBlaze. Examples of programs that don't start: TASCAM audio interface drivers & control app (meaning no sound, can manually start), Steam (can't manually start, have to wait until the 20 minutes is over), Teams, OneDrive (kinda starts, but doesn't connect within the initial 20 minutes). I can manually start many programs like my web browser, VLC, IrfanView, Telegram, Slack etc. via Start menu, quick launch icons or my iCue and StreamDeck app launchers. Some others I can't get started even like this, like Steam, it just won't start until the 20 minutes is over. Task Manager's main view works, but if I try to change the tab to the Start-up one, it hangs until the 20 minutes is up. I can't use the file explorer to browse drives and files. It shows up when trying to open it via e.g. Win+E, but the My Computer view never populates. Again, after the 20 minutes is over it works just fine. I can also access files just fine by using the file browsers in other programs, like VLC. Nothing is chugging or anything during this time. Hard drives aren't being cranked hard, CPU usage is low, GPU usage is non-existent, all the apps that can be launched (like web browser) work just fine and dandy, no issues. It feels more like a timer than system congestion. This lasts about 20 minutes every time (never more than about a minute of variance), after which all the apps that hadn't launched during start-up come alive, Steam starts, file explorer starts to work, Task Manager starts to work, everything just works again. I have tried doing full scans with Windows Defender, Avast and Malwarebytes, finding nothing, integrity checks all come out as clean, etc. No idea what to do or where to go from here. EDIT: Oh right computer is as follows Gigabyte X470 Aorus Gaming 7 Wifi rev1.0, second to latest BIOS AMD Ryzen R9 3900X Corsair 64GB 3200MHz RAM running at 3000 MHz Asus 3080 TUF OC 4xSSDs (1xNVME + 3xSATA) 3xHDDs 1xDAS (Drobo 5C)

I won't say that many games implement motion blur well enough to actually be good, but there's nothing inherently wrong with motion blur Our eyes and visual system weren't designed to look at series of totally sharp images (no matter how high the FPS), some blurring of moving objects is inherent to how we see things in the real world. Replicating this without adding anything extra is IMO where motion blur has its place, when done well. When done well it can even make 60 fps games look like they're running smoother, similarly to how the motion blur in movies helps mitigate the fps being merely 24. Take Saving Private Ryan as an example, the "stuttery" portions of the Normandy landing were filmed at the same framerate as the rest of the film, they just halved the exposure time per frame for those shots, cutting down the amount of motion blur and creating that stuttery effect.

Turns out there is an official method from Gigabyte for this, at least for my mobo (https://www.gigabyte.com/Support/FAQ/3876), which popped up after searching their support site for a bit. Please follow below procedure to fix corrupt BIOS ROM that not physically damaged: Turn off the computer. Adjust SB switch to Single BIOS mode. Adjust BIOS switch (BIOS_SW) to the functional BIOS. Boot up the computer and enter BIOS mode to load BIOS default setting. Adjust BIOS Switch (BIOS_SW) to the non-working BIOS. Flash the BIOS by using Q-Flash. Reboot and confirm if BIOS is working. Shut down the computer and adjust BIOS Switch (BIOS_SW) to original BIOS. Boot up the computer and confirm BIOS are working properly. Just did that and it worked out fine. Unfortunately it doesn't show up there at all, it only shows up in the BIOS. The partition the old OS installation was on was formatted, so it makes sense to me that Windows doesn't recognize it anymore, I'm just weirded out that the BIOS does see it.

The manual is quite unhelpful on this issue from what I can see, it mainly just says that one switch turns dual bios mode on or off and one switch selects between the two available bios, but nothing really about how the system actually functions, and then mentions that you can either use Q-flash to update the bios before the OS loads, or use their @bios program to do it from Windows. The system is AFAIK supposed to detect the first bios failing and automatically fix it from the second, but that seems to have failed, the first bios just looped over and over after debug code 90 ("Phase transfer to BDS (Boot Device Selection) from DXE"). EDIT: One of the first avenues of attack I'm thinking of right now would be to simply select the main bios and try to clear CMOS. Not 100% sure how that'd be achieved with this mobo though, not seeing a button for it anywhere at least...

Hiya, I just got a scare when I rebooted my computer and it got stuck on a loop, after debug LED code 90 it just started back again, without power cycling. Quick googling suggested to try to use the second BIOS, since the primary was probably borked. So I set the dual bios switch to single bios mode and selected the backup bios, and now everything is working again. This leaves me in a quandary though: How do I flash and fix my main BIOS if I can't get the computer to post with it? Is it even possible to access it when the second bios is selected? Right now I'm in "safety first mode" and don't want to start futzing about trying different settings (like Dual BIOS mode On with backup bios selected) before I have studied the situation a bit, the last thing I want is having both of them borked, especially since I use my home PC for work... The second question isn't quite as crucial. Some time ago I did the usual thing of getting a larger SSD, cloning my OS over to it, formatting the old partition afterwards and using it for other stuff. Windows itself is taking it fine, the slight issue that I'm seeing is that the old drive still shows up in the boot order as if it still had Windows installed on it. I couldn't do a full format of the whole drive because it was split in two partitions (one for Windows and one for non-gaming related programs, I don't like installing any programs on C drive because C:\Program Files doesn't behave like D:\Program Files does when it comes to security and OS interference), I'm guessing that's the primary reason this has happened. Is there a way to sort this out?