prayshadow

Hi all,

I’m simply trying to set up an automation that will open my Waze app when my phone connects to my car’s bluetooth. I just want to have the app open so I can notifications about hazards or speed traps, I don’t need it to navigate or anything. I don’t always remember to open the app on my commute and it could have saved me a lot of time waiting in traffic and a couple speeding tickets.

Problem however, Waze is not listed in the shortcut app as an app that’s available to use and I can’t figure out any way to allow it or add it. Can anybody offer any help or does Apple just not allow us to do what simple things we want with our own phones?

Hi guys, I have a Note8 that I use for business and I've recently noted it charges very slowly.  The battery is original to the phone so I'm quite sure its capacity is not what it used to be, but would that affect its charging rate?  As far as what I've read, the phone is capable of charging up to 15w (QC 2.0) but in my experience with 5 or 6 different chargers, it won't charge beyond anything more than about 6w.  I have multiple chargers from Apple (20w), Anker and UGreen and not one of them is able to exceed about 6w.  The small Anker chargers I have are the 18w version that can do 9v as well as a couple PD 65w chargers from Anker.  The UGreen charger I have is also a PD 65w charger.  None of these chargers will charge the Note8 at anything more than 5v; none of them will switch to 9v after a few seconds like they do with my newer devices.  I'm baffled, since most of the chargers I have tried with it are QC 2.0, QC 3.0, etc. certified, or at least they list QC compatibility in their documentation.

The only charger I have that will charge it at anything more than that 6w is a Samsung adaptive charger that WILL switch to 9v after a few seconds (but really holds more like 8.80v) and even that will not exceed about 11w maximum.

Is the Note8 just that picky?  If there's nothing I can do about it I will probably end up having to spend the money to replace the device since the charging time of 2-3 hours is really hurting my work flow.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Do you think replacing the battery ($25) would make a difference?

Hi all...I'm wondering if I need a specific type of drive to pair with my home theater PC in order to play 4K UHD Blu-Ray disks.  I've done some research but nothing particularly helpful comes up within the first few pages of Google.  I would love some recommendations for good drives (preferably internal).  Thanks!

Alright, here's my situation.  I recently bought some new parts so I could revamp my PC; I bought an ASUS TUF Gaming Z790-Plus WiFi D4, a 13600K, I already had an 3080Ti FTW3, a 980 Pro 1TB, 32GB of Corsair Vengeance LPX @3000Mhz and it's all powered by an RM850x.  I bought a Thermaltake Core P3 TG, built it all, powered it up and installed windows.  I initially used the vertical GPU mount and the PCIe riser that was included with the case (I believe this is a Gen3 riser) and I was running into weird graphical issues and it would restart any time I tried to install graphics drivers or load browsers.  After some troubleshooting I determined the riser was the cause of my restarting by unplugging it and using the iGPU on the 13600.  After I did that everything worked perfectly.  My question is: are there other PCIe risers that will fit Thermaltake's mounting mechanism?  Do I need to find a Gen4 riser and will that really make a difference?  I tried to set the PCIe slots in BIOS to run in Gen3 mode but it made absolutely no difference at all, still restarting.  Only fix was removing the riser from the system completely.  I would like to use the vertical mount, but my Thermal Grizzly PCIe Gen4 riser does not fit the mounting on the case and is too long anyway...are there other options that will fit and won't cause my computer to restart?

24 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Tbh just dont bother, it prob isnt supported

 

Though if you are looking to increase performance then delete intel dptf processor participant or dynamic tuning (idk which one so dont go willy nilly on this) then do this to yeet power limit

 

 

Short tdp limit yeet tutorial to make your cpu boost as much as it wants

 

download throttlestop, pressing the turn on button, going into the tpl menu, set turbo long, short, and pp0 current to 99999 and shove the sliders all the way to the right, clamp, lock, apply, power limits yeeted

 

 

This should allow your cpu to not be power throttled and constantly boost to its max speed so itll be quite abit faster, though these cpus are dogwater so itll prob still lose to my e8400 (4.3), heck said e8400 performs ~2.5x faster than my dads craptop and thats with power limits yeeted, prob just a bloatdows 10 issue so also debloat w10 cause it really bogs down alot of low end systems

It put down 209 in Cinebench R15, not great, but I've definitely seen worse. My XPS will do 1200 or more in R15 lmao.

Hi guys, I'm trying to use Throttlestop to undervolt my friend's HP 15-BS289WM, but it's not showing the FIVR menu.  Does this processor not support FIVR or is it a BIOS limitation?  Can it be done on this laptop?

Hi guys, I'm looking for the best way to upgrade the NVMe SSD in my laptop but keep an exact copy of what I have on the current drive, operating system and all.  I'm running Windows 10 on an XPS 9570.  I've done the typical Google search but I've come up with about 20 different methods, about half of which involve programs that cost money.  I wanted to know what the best way to do this is according to people who've actually done it.  I have another computer, my desktop, so I could theoretically get two NVMe to USB adapters and plug them both into that if it would be any easier.  Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi all, I need some help with redoing my home network, specifically with the hardline part of it.  My house is not currently wired for ethernet, all I have are RJ11 and coax.  I have two coax jacks that are actually active and I currently have a Sparklight internet plan that works with what essentially appears to be two modems.  One is upstairs, one is downstairs, both Hitron units, both connected to coax.  The two modems have different MAC addresses...so I was wondering if it would be possible for me to use one modem upstairs and another downstairs on the same internet plan, or if I'm just going to have to suck it up and run some ethernet cables myself.  I would like to get rid of the equipment I have from Sparklight and install my own, mainly for the fact I can use my own, higher quality equipment, upgrade my internet plant to a faster one and still be saving money on my monthly bill for getting rid of their equipment.  Is there any way for me to be able to use two modems without having to pay for two separate internet plans, or is there another way that I can use coax to share an internet connection from the downstairs to the upstairs?

I am having constant issues trying to move pictures from my iPhone 8 Plus to my Dell XPS 9570 running Windows 10. My iPhone is on the latest software as of this date (12.4) and I get the same error every single time I try, regardless of whether I try to import using Photos or I try to move the pictures manually from the DCIM folder on the iPhone. I can get a few pictures and then it will fail, every single time, and give me the same error message (picture attached). I’ve even tried moving files one at a time. Same error almost every time. Usually it’s videos, and it might have something to do with trying to transfer 4K60 video over a USB 2.0 connection, which is what the Apple Lightning port uses, but I’m unsure of what to do by this point. I’ve tried so many things and I’m at my wits end. Any help is appreciated.

5 hours ago, Gohardgrandpa said:

Find a cheap Q9550 if you can. I had a q8300 and that chip wouldn’t oc well for me at all, got a q9550 and it went way farther 

I'm actually bidding on a pretty cheap Q9650 right now, but I'll look into a 9550 as well, I know they usually go for about half or less what a 9650 will go for.

I just recently finished building a "retro" build of sorts, mainly for fun and because I just think Core 2s are cool since it what was current when I was a kid.  I wanted to ask about other people's experiences with overclocking a Core 2 Quad.  The specs of the BEAST are an ASUS P5G41T-M LX3 mobo, a Core 2 Quad Q9300, an EVGA 960 FTW, 8GB of Samsung 1600Mhz DDR3, an EVGA 500W 80+ PSU and a Silicon Power SSD with Windows 10.  I stuffed it all into an old eMachines T5048 case that originally came with a Pentium 4, from which I still have all of the original components.  I managed to get the CPU overclocked to *just* shy of 3.00Ghz from its stock speed of 2.50Ghz, any more and it will not boot.  It laid down a whopping 312CB in Cinebench R15 and 8925 in Superposition @ 720p low.  Does anyone else have any numbers from this chip or other Core 2 Quads regarding overclocking or benchmarking?  I plan to post up some pics of the build on my profile soon.  The entire build was put together for around $100 USD.  I'm pretty happy with it.  

1 hour ago, unclewebb said:

3.50 GHz is the default speed for the Core i5-4690K. 

 

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/80811/intel-core-i5-4690k-processor-6m-cache-up-to-3-90-ghz.html

 

To go higher than this, Intel Turbo Boost must be enabled within the processor.  Make sure you are using the latest bios for this motherboard and make sure Turbo Boost is enabled in the bios.

 

There are 2 things that control the minimum CPU speed when idle.  If you want the CPU to go under 3.50 GHz, the Non Turbo Ratio needs to be set to 0 and in the Windows Power Options, the Minimum processor state has to be set to a low number.  Default is 5% when using the Windows Balanced power profile.

Thank you! The minimum processor state in Windows Power Options was set to 99%.  It now throttles down to about 800Mhz like it should...and I was able to get it to an all-core Turbo of 3.7Ghz. Much appreciated!

I started cleaning a computer for a friend of mine and decided to do some baseline benchmarking before I cleaned it, just to see if we'd pick up any performance gain from cleaning and reapplication of thermal paste on CPU/GPU. (It's dirty enough to make me think it might be throttling, and is still using thermal paste that he put on over 5 years ago...)  As I got into said benchmarking, I noticed it was sitting at 3.5Ghz all the time, this is reflected by task manager and MSI Afterburner both.  He is running an i5-4690K in an MSI Z97 PC Mate mobo.  I don't know anything really about this board and I don't know a ton about Haswell either, but I thought they were supposed to drop their clocks when idling...and it doesn't.  According to task manager, CPU usage at idle with everything closed is about 0-1%.  Even so, it stays at 3.5Ghz, and doesn't change at all, up or down.  It stays at 3.5 when idling, running Cinebench, opening programs, AIDA64, everything I have tried.  Afterburner just shows a straight line for all four CPU cores at 3.5Ghz.  It doesn't Turbo up past 3.5, and it doesn't idle below 3.5.  I don't know what to look for at this point, all settings in BIOS are on Auto or enabled, he's never OC'd it, so all the settings in BIOS are stock.  I thought about maybe trying a fresh Windows install or running it off one of the drives I have laying around, but I figured I'd ask here first.  Am I missing something?  What should I look for?  Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Hello all, I need recommendations for screen sharing softwares, preferably free. Thanks!

1 hour ago, Plutosaurus said:

Are your scores are a bit low for 5.1?

 

At 5.0, newest windows and bios w/meltdown fixes, my 8700k does about 1660 in CB R15 and slightly over 4000 in CB R20.

 

Background tasks?

I need to update my BIOS.  Running a Strix Z390-E Gaming and I have not updated my BIOS.  I'll do that and run tests again at 5.1, see what I get.

2 hours ago, TheKDub said:

8700K owner here.

 

I've pushed mine to as high as 5.3GHz @ somewhere around 1.325-1.35v. 5.2 GHz at around 1.3v.

 

Got 4052 on R20 at 5.2GHz and 551 (Single Core) on R20 at 5.3GHz.

 

I can't find my R15 scores, and don't feel like OC'ing that hard right now to get new ones. (I leave it at 4.8GHz for daily use. Keeps temps down, but still performs great).

 

Definitely seems strange that you're not getting much from the higher clock speeds. Do you have other programs running while benchmarking? What's your RAM speed?

Hi!  Thanks for the reply.  I found out it was my AVX offset, I did not realize that R20 was an AVX workload.  I just put my AVX offset back to zero and was able to dial back a little voltage and keep stable, I put down 4101cb in R20 @ 5.2.  I typically run mine @ 5.1 because I can run stable 5.1 at 1.25-1.28v, whereas I have to use a bit more than that for 5.2.  I have yet to try for 5.3, but I am delidding soon and I will try then.  No other programs running, I made sure to kill iCue, afterburner, etc.  My RAM is running at 3200Mhz.

2 minutes ago, WereCatf said:

That's because R20 uses AVX and, like you just said yourself, you've set your AVX-offset to -2.

Ah. Thank you, I was unaware R20 was an AVX workload. I’ll push that back up then. Thanks!

Hi all, I'd like to ask for some help with my 5.2Ghz OC on my 8700K. I can get it to run perfectly stable at 5.1Ghz @ 1.300v and everything else set to auto, and I get perfectly good temps under load and otherwise like this, and an average score in Cinebench R15 of 1600cb, with R20 returning a tad over 4000 on average.  When I push up to 5.2Ghz, I had to increase my voltage up to about 1.39-1.40, my temps remained pretty good, 85-90 C under full load, I set my negative AVX offset to 2 and I set my IA DC and IA AC load lines to .01.  I see a performance increase in R15 of about 50 points on average, up to about 1650-1660, but R20 sees no gain at all.  I looked at my clocks underload, in R15 it holds at 5.2Ghz stable, (5.17Ghz in task manager), but in R20 it immediately drops to 5Ghz (4.99Ghz in task manager) and stays there, and as I said before, I see no performance gain at all.  The computer is perfectly stable at 5.2Ghz, but I'm stumped by the clock throttling in R20, as my temps once again, under load in R20, never exceeded 90C.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Alright, here's R20 on my laptop. XPS 9570 after a little bit of tuning.  Update for R15, I got her up to 1244cb and that seems to be all she has to give for now.  I will do a clean Windows install tonight and possibly repaste as well, see if I can do any better.

2 hours ago, YouSirAreADudeSir said:

You're supposed to take the screen shot AFTER the run my friend  

 

And I forgot CPU-Z in mine lol

I'll post again when I run on my desktop. I haven't used R20 because everything I've tested in the past is on R15 and I've no frame of reference for R20 yet. Maybe I'll try it. Who knows.

Yes.  A header like that is capable of delivering high amperage for things like (obviously) an AIO pump, a water pump for a custom loop, etc etc, but they will only draw what they need to run what is connected to them.  It is perfectly safe.

XPS 9570...i7-8750H...1050Ti Max-Q...16GB DDR4 @ 2666Mhz...-150mV undervolt on core/cache...still tuning but pretty happy nonetheless.  Single core did 170cb and OpenGL was 122.47fps.

Hello all.  I recently picked up a Dell XPS 9570, and for the most part, I absolutely love it.  There are, however a couple issues I had read up on before I purchased it, and that is why I am here.  I had read that the Killer Wi-Fi card that Dell (for some reason) continues to use can be a source of problems, and sure enough, the day after I got it out of the box I began having connectivity issues.  I removed and uninstalled all the drivers that were on it and installed Killer's most recent driver suite, and haven't had any issues at all thus far, but I still want to put an Intel Wi-Fi card in it.  I have seen two main recommendations for the 9570, and that is the Intel 9260 and the Intel 8265.  I know some have talked about the 9260 having some issues with Bluetooth when installed in this laptop, so I am just wondering which I should go with.  I also have plans to do a clean windows install this coming weekend, as well as install a Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500GB in place of the 512GB Toshiba drive it came standard with.  While I'm in there, I planned to repaste the CPU and GPU, if for no other reason than just to have peace of mind of fresh thermal paste, and I have been running a consistent and perfectly stable -150mV undervolt on core and cache, from which I have seen about 100cb increase in Cinebench R15, from 1135 to around 1240.  It manages to stay on 3.91Ghz turbo all the way through the run with the undervolt, and overall I am very pleased with the laptop.  I just am curious based on you guys' personal knowledge or experiences which Wi-Fi card you'd recommend.  Thanks!

Hi all, I need help picking a PWM fan controller for my case, as I'd like to be able to control all four of my case fans as one, and I'm using 3 motherboard headers for my H100i.  I have an ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E and I'd love to know the best fan controller recommendations from you guys.  Thanks much!

5 hours ago, LukeSavenije said:

it was more to see if this is the kind of monitor op means. I just picked the first one from a list, but I'll add it to my fiter.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#B=300,1000&D=100000,240000&T=1,5&r=192001080&sort=price&page=1

I appreciate that, I didn't even think about PC Part Picker honestly, thanks.