Viktor277

Is Apple dongle really better than ALC1220?

Looking for something that can drive Audeze MM-100, since they're planars they could use more power than the onboard from the prime x370 pro. Found two dac amp combos so far that look appealing especially for the price: Ifi Zen Air and Aiyama A5 pro from aliexpress, whats interesting about A5 is that it can deliver 400mw at 32ohms compared to 280mw at 32ohms with Zen Air, but the Zen Air has the bass boost option which i found lacking on MM 100 running with X370. If anyone has better options at this price point, please advise.

There are no noise issues.

I recently got the Audeze MM-100 as replacement for my stereo setup, i was wondering would they benefit from a dac or amp? The volume itself is alright but i feel the sound quality should be better. Motherboard is Prime X370 Pro, so it has the ALC1220 codec, the ''good one'' amongst onboard audio.

Nope only this pc, on my laptop everything works fine

I already said that i tried multiple access points and it behaves the same.

It's on WIndows 11 and i haven't touched anything on the pc and it just decided not to work properly today. Never created any public or private connections just let it do its thing automatically and has always worked that way.

Tried reinstalling drivers and checking for windows updates, tried different access points but the problem still persists. Youtube and normal web browsing works but spotify and steam don't, etc. Any solutions? Over archer ac 600 nano adapter. This is the status of the network, troubleshooter can't seem to find anything wrong with this either. So, internet works, but it's labeled as offline for some reason.

The main problem is in Witcher 3 next gen version, it performs poorly in Beauclair area and in any city as well, but especially bad in that region, drops power usage to half from 210W to 100W and cuts frequency to around 1500mhz and can barrely do 30ish fps, no matter the preset. I already reinstalled windows and wiped the drives since i had nvidia gpu before this, didnt help. Other games it runs as its supposed to, but i have at least 2 crashes per week, seems amd really is crap, 1070 was rock solid never had a crash with it. I cleaned and repasted the gpu and it passes 6 hour furmark load flawlessly, in conclusion crap drivers. Any fix for the Witcher 3 issue or is it like that across the board? CPU is ryzen 2600X.

That's what i'm saying, it only says refresh rate, not even display refresh rate, just refresh rate, in the specs section of the tv site

I've asked this question before but can't seem to find the right answer to it, so im trying again. I've been struggling to find a solid explanation on this matter, since there is no way that this tv reaches 3480hz refresh rate no matter the cost, and everyone seems to lose their minds over it. What is meant by this 3840hz, refresh of what? Closest i've got on this matter is from this 2013 series panasonic tvs that even back then stated 3000hz "Motion Resolution".

My bad, all good.

It's not that it's broken it just that it can't be helped it seems, i heard linus said in one of his videos that there isn't much that you can do for optical stabilizers atm, thought i'd check in here if there are any new solutions. Well, i won't deny that i'm a razer fan lol, everyone seem to shit on them kinda makes me feel weird that i'm one of the few that had a good experience with every peripheral that i had from them, even the synapse works well..

Talking about brands, that alloy 2 of urs is what my friend use to have, only thing going for it is aluminum frame, The rest of it is crap.

Keyboard is great for the price, spacebar is the only ''problem''. i mainly bought it cuz of the keycaps and font, and the bottom out feel and stiffness of the keyboard is what i like about it, for a gaming keyboard it's pretty good and i tried other asus hyperx and corsair models and didn't like them. I couldn't care less about 300+ dollar keyboards.

I bought last year the razer huntsman mini, some of the switches needed lubing and every stabilized key, after lube, no rattle except for spacebar. Nothing that i do does it, tape mod lube or anything. When lubed, it sounds great and lasts about a day max, which is a problem because every other switch on it does not need lube for a while, just for spacebar i cant figure it out. I also tape modded the board and put in the foam but still it didn't reduce the spacebar rattle. I also filled the spacebar key itself with tape to make it less hollow, it helped to a degree but the rattle is still there. Any recommendations for spacebar rattle fix?

Well, at least they didn't try to hide any specs. As is, it sounds very good, with my set up, better than some 3x expensive amps. They cut corners in right places. I don't think this brochure is meant to sell the amp, it's literally a manual. I don't think it's stupid to quote literal specs of a unit, considering that most companies aren't bothered to list any detailed specs other than basic specs than can be understood by average consumers, and are hiding behind the 1khz measurements which give the best results, as can be seen in this manual too.

As for speakers, it's driving JBL Professional 8330, 91db, efficient and easy to drive. Here are the specs if you're interested.

[X]

I do not have required expertise to mess with such schematics.. As per recommendation from a friend, i took it to a guy that repairs all sorts of amps and is actually doing it right, consulted with bunch of people that already took it to him, some that actually know quite a bit more than me about technicalities of amplifiers, and all agreed that pops is doing a good job. I try to sound as professional and fluent as i can since english isn't my first language, pardon me if something doesn't make sense at first glance. Turns out the problem was in ''ground mass''. He didn't care to explain to me what that is but the problem is fixed, took him only a hour to do so as well. Since you mentioned slev rate, that is the only specification that isn't mentioned on the spec sheet of amplifier, also a first time that i got a owners manual with a amp lol, its what it is when u buy used, mostly. If rise time is releated, its 1.5us, supposedly its good? Im impressed with the specs as well, mostly with the damping factor of 400 for such a small amp, massive control and practilly no distorsion, the seller said, and i can confirm it. Read somewhere that it used to get compared to much more expensive amps of the day in '93, sticker price of 499, adjusted for today's dollars is around 1000. A killer amp truly, made such a difference that it made me realise that the problem all these years wasn't in the speakers.

I saw online some ransomware decryptors but none seem to have even heard of the .wayn encryption. Does anyone possibly know any decryptor software?

Never thought it would happend to me one day and i use to laugh at people that get their pcs infected with malware, and i got mine in a infuriatingly stupid, most obvious way possible. Went to download a game file that i deleted accidentally online and on the most sketchiest of the sites i downloaded a exe which contained a malware that locked all of my files and pics. How i figured? 30 seconds later my cpu fans were at 100% and so was cpu for no reason, apparently. Went in task manager and saw a malware disguised as a srvchost.exe taking up 95% of processing, but it was too late at that point. Locked up all files, pics music etc, luckily got most of them backed up, but not the game data! All of the files are now ending in .wayn, in every folder theres a read me which of course states that i gotta pay up 980 bucks to unlock my files. To top it all off, when i tried to go to malware bytes site, straight up blocked it, wont even load up. It went through the windows defender like its nothing. So, any way of recovering a few files that i need?

Its a european style connector, but i think it is 2-prong cable, i think that seller mentioned that. This is a 220v model.

Replaced my old Harman Kardon PM645, with a bit less old Adcom Gca 510. Sufficient upgrade over the 645,especially in terms of detail and massive control over the speakers thanks to 400 damping factor, practically no distortion. The issue i have is that when you touch the 510 the speakers buzz, like a static noise, which i dont remember happening with any amp i encountered before. As i understood this unit has no protection and no ground because *design philosophy*. I don't know if this is a potentially bad thing but id appreciate any comment/advice. I had this unit cleaned since the left channel was going out frequently, to be expected of a 30yo unit, but it was a simple fix. Now its working fine other than that odd buzzing, which was present before and after i took it for cleaning. If its about something that cant catch on fire on its own then i dont care about it, but if someone says otherwise ill look into it. Just wanna stay safe.

Looking great, i had a chance to listen to those dt880's a while ago and they're still fantastic. Tried going with headphones few months back but i prefer speakers more, i currently have jbl professional 8330 and 4408,first is 91db and latter 89db sensitivity, very easy to drive. im not looking for power amps atm as this is plenty for me and i dont listen them very loud frequently. Unfortunately im from eastern europe, where prices are either higher or lower depending on the brand, but i mainly prefer american brands (pm645 is made in japan). I'm strongly considering thule ia100, or any amp without any filters or knobs, heard very good things about ''direct'' amps, where all those filters and tone controls are removed in favor of better sound quality and shortening the path of the signal. Edit: PM645 is a normal integrated amp, stereo, but can drive 2 pairs of speakers at the same time.