benstalls

My 2013 GTI with the 6mt making around 250 wheel My first fun car, got it a couple months ago. Been a total blast to drive around town, on highways, and on back roads. I want to get bronze wheels for it, but keeping the stock profile and dropping it and inch or so. My friend has the '10 golf with the 5 cylinder, i drove her car once and had to get one. list of mods: Catless downpipe, cobb catback, cts turbo intake, tune Things im doing soon: r8 coil packs diverter valve

UPDATE: After finally getting into the BIOS, I disabled fast boot. Then I got into windows successfully, and did three tests. Software restart, software shutdown, and hardware shutdown (pwr button). All three times I was able to get the computer to boot. Maybe disabling FastBoot really was the answer? Until then, I'm keeping my senses astute, and those 4 EZ Debug lights will be the bane of my existence, and I hope this problem never occurs again!

Problem came back as I was resetting again. I'm going to attempt to give this a try and see how long she lasts.

Hi there, earlier today I just got done completing my first REAL build. STORYTELLING START (Skip if you don't care) I'm pretty sure my first post on here was actually about swapping in a new power supply into a prebuilt HP I had bought in preparation of my GTX1660. Anyway, I had found a near-identical PSU from their gaming lineup of PCs that happened to use an identical motherboard, cassis, and whatnot. Since then, I've gotten a new Ryzen 5 2600, 2 SSDs, another HDD, and more ram. That little Pavilion would just keep on chugging away. It was when I got the 2600 CPU that heat started to become an issue, and I would experience some significant frame drops on a near bottleneck-free PC. A few days ago, I finally pulled the trigger on a standard ATX mobo, PSU, and case. Even though it's what I should have done from the start, I finally have an all custom tower, and I love it! STORYTELLING END Now, when I got home from work tonight, I had some complications with Windows Activation. After fiddling with some settings, I pressed the small reset button on my case and as I expected, the PC shut off.. but the fans and power button LED were still lit. After a minute or two, I forced the PC to shut off by holding the power button and turned it back on. My MSI board is equipped with EZ Debug LED's and the CPU one was lit, and my computer seemed to just be running fans and lights. No number is high enough to represent the number of bricks I just $%!@ seeing my $1.7k machine do nothing. After reseating ram (for some reason), I decided to see if clearing the CMOS did anything, and WOW!!! it worked. I promptly disconnected the computers reset switch! And then, I waltzed my way over here to type this on the very computer I felt to be broken. My only question is.... WHY?!? Why did my reset switch of all things break my PC, and why did clearing the CMOS fix it? If this is by far the simplest thing you've ever seen please explain still.

Good idea, but I have my doubts. And it's not like we aren't supposed to use our own laptops anyway, we had the option to get a Chromebook in the beginning of the year. I didn't own my MacBook at that point. My biggest problem using the Chromebook is that many apps I use throughout my day are simply not available on them. Besides downloading project descriptions and working from there, having a personal place to work on all assignments seamlessly is something I'm not willing to give up. Desktops are available in the classes with these Windows/MacOS apps, but working on them outside the 45 minute period we're given is impossible. I also heard the reason teachers and authorized devices have access to a special high-bandwidth connection was due to a failed press conference many years ago. I believe the conference was about the schools advances when using technology. Ironically, their Wi-Fi solution simply wasn't enough that day and the IT guy got a real chewing out for making the school look stupid. In my eyes, a backdoor of sorts is a must. Is that even a backdoor? I don't know, lol.

I had slipped my way through the schools IT departments iron grip on the networking situation, and gotten the password to the main router. For about two weeks, I had great internet access using it, but myself and everyone I shared the password with were eventually blocked from the Wi-Fi. The Guest Wi-Fi has worked good enough for about a month, but has since become an unreliable mess (No doubt due to the many kids who connect to the Guest Wi-Fi to save on their data.) I have two main ideas, each with benefits and roadblocks. 1. Use the school-issued Chromebook as a hotspot (it has access to the main wifi), but I cannot find out how to enable such a feature within the Settings menu. 2. Use Androids tether feature or something of the sort to use my unlimited data plan as a Wi-Fi hotspot. This is disabled by my service provider due to the plan we have, so I'm stuck on that too. Maybe there's a way around it? My teacher gave me a lecture on how it's more about the utility of one object than the value of another. Yeah, she's right, but what she doesn't know is that despite the MacBooks price, I get far more use out of it than any Chromebook has given me in the past 4 years of using one. It has become far more trouble than it is worth to go back to using a Chromebook. That's not her fault, of course, why would she know (or even care) about that? I'm not a networking wiz yet, so your help is much appreciated. Thank you in advanced!

Laptop got here today. No scams, and the correct model came, just needed a little extra cleaning. I really hope this small thread finds its way to someone in need, because I'm sure many people like me are displeased with their school laptop. Although, just in case... I'll say that I'm 110% aware that the school can't buy everyone Mac Books. I took the not-problem and made it one, but I know this laptop will last me a good long while. Thank you to everyone who contributed too! There are so many good mobile AMD options out there, it's crazy the bang for your buck you can get.

Both seemed to have their ups and downs. This was hard to choose between, but I did find something that seemed really hard to pass up after the fact. This was a good idea, honestly. I have 2200G in my Desktop PC, and even today it's an amazing little quad core machine. I ended up finding an amazing deal on an i7 2.8GHz (4.0 Boost) Dual Graphics MacBook Pro 15" with 16GB of ram and the 512GB SSD. I could get a way bigger one down the line, too. It was only slightly more expensive than the Lenovo Think pad I had listed, too. It was also a matter of wanting to try something new, because I haven't touched macOS or any real Apple device in YEARS. I expect it to be plenty powerful for my scholarly needs, and now maybe even some intermediate Premiere Pro and Photoshop. The IO on these 2015 models are plentiful as well. Bootcamp seems to make it the ultimate productivity machine, I'll definitely get that just in case. This 2015 model in particular seems to be praised amongst the Apple community. 30 Day money back guarantee anyway... So even though I think I'll like it, I won't be dead in the water if things go a little crazy.

First forum post I'm making on a Raspberry Pi in school, so that's fun. Anyway, I'm not fond of the chromebooks my school uses. They're an updated model, but the screen is dim and Chrome OS does not have the features I want. I have been using Backmarket to look for refurbished Mac Book Pros and Think Pads. Here are my current choices so far: Lenovo Thinkpad T460 (2016) Mac Book Pro (2015) (Edit: This listing has changed, and is no longer the model I purchased.) I'm trying to decide between the two, or perhaps someone on the forum has a completely different idea. I have a gaming computer at home, so I'm not at all worried about if it can game or not. My biggest needs are the Adobe Suite of products and the Eclipse Java Dev Kit, but most other things are online. I'd like the laptop so I can do other schoolwork in classes when I have free time, as I'm not fond of any online alternatives. In the past, I would have gone windows. BUT... I know the Mac Book Pro has a great battery, great screen, lots of great everything. I also know the Think Pads are reliable too, and have way more IO. I'm really interested in what the community will have to say. The only thing I can think of being a maybe issue is the battery being hard to replace on a Mac Book, I'd imagine. Thank you!

I don't think I want another Razer mouse, as much as I love their company, this has really tarnished my view of them. The G502 Hero looks really nice. My friend bought one yesterday and absolutely loves it, more than his two Glorious Model-O's that have crapped out on him.

I just put my Serial Number into their site, and no, it is no longer covered by warranty. I assume I'm out of luck? I love this mouse but I'll probably be getting something like a logitech if this won't even last a year.

I asked r/razer on reddit and got nowhere, should've came to the best tech forum to begin with! Here's my post from there: I own a RAZER Naga Trinity, and as of recent there has been a problem with holding down the left click button, and it registering double clicks. This hasn't been an issue with gaming, but something as simple as dragging files or editing something in Adobe Premier can become a hassle. The double clicks are entirely random as far as I can tell. There is also a lot of play when putting my finger on the plastic, but not actually clicking. I'll have a video demonstrating what I mean. I've only had this mouse for about a year, so I'm a little disappointed. I don't have the money to buy a new mouse. Any suggestions on repairing it? Or is this just something that I'll have to deal with. Example of the weird extra play in the mouse button: (Might wanna put your volume up a bit) https://youtu.be/Mv14uCWvadM

Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I've fixed my issue. I used Media Creation Tool to upgrade from Windows 10 to Windows 10.. again. After I got my new copy of Windows, I used Media Creation Tool again to make a Boot USB. Same USB with a 3.0 port this time. There must've been something wrong with my OG Windows because the new install had no issues related to Drivers or anything like that when I installed Windows 10. The only two hiccups I had were that my HDD with Windows 10 on it still wanted to boot, so I just made sure that my SSD and USB were the only two storage devices connected. The other issue was that my SSD had to be in GPT format instead of MBR. I was able to format and fix in the CMD Prompt while in the install menu using diskpart. Thank you both for taking time out of your day to help me out, it really means a lot.

I figured out a while ago that updates no longer install on my PC, so today I went to Windows Media Creation Tool to make a copy of my OS for a fresh install. But booting from the USB I'm using presents a "Missing Driver" error and I cant do anything beyond that point. I've even used Rufus to make a boot USB from an .iso and still, nothing works. I can't factory reset my PC either, after waiting 20 or so minutes I get a "Something wen't wrong and we couldn't reset your PC" error. I would LOVE to start fresh and re-install windows to my new SSD but I can't even get past removing my old version of Windows. I've spent nearly six hours on this and I'm ready to be done. Does anyone have any way I could start fresh with windows on my SSD?

Noise isn't very important.