TwilightRavens

35 minutes ago, AxelMind said:

Just tried... nothing, i'm fucking panicking. The card itself works great, the only problem are these damn fans. What else could I do

Is the card still in warranty?

19 minutes ago, AxelMind said:

there's just nvidia container that is using like 30%, tried shutting it down and the problem is still there

Try booting windows into minimal mode (selective startup) and see if the issue persists. Could also try Diagnostic startup, but I can't remember if it'll load the GPU driver or not.

It sounds like either your RAM or fclk is unstable, but RAM will usually throw a bsod.

$160 or less I would consider fair for a 980 ti, though yeah a 1070 would be better because of the 8GB of VRAM vs 6GB.

Are there any background processes using the GPU?

Have you tried DDU and reinstalling the drivers? and also making sure in the Nvidia control panel the power plan is set to adaptive.

17 hours ago, Guest 5150 said:

Signature says 1.5v. Is this the XMP voltage, or did you need that much for just 3600mhz? The later, try more.

 

Timings used? It's just a guessing game for people to help.

 

Validating sticks is a joke. You're overclocking them all together, it won't matter which stick is which slot. You already know 2 sticks is where the performance is at. You'll beat on the system to accomplish a mere 100mhz effective clock (ddr 200mhz) and probably no difference in performance even if you where to benchmark it all day.

 

Good luck!

I’ll post a ZenTimings screenshot next time i’m at my computer. XMP calls for 1.35v, and the main timings are 16-16-16-16-36 was running 1.5v from when I was running 2 sticks at 3800 C14.

1 minute ago, Ralphred said:

You have to do that with every stick against every other stick, not just the set they came in; label them 1 to 4 and "validate" the following pairs:

1&2

1&3

1&4

2&3

2&4

3&4

 

Oh right, I forgot about that part for signaling quality on the motherboard, better sticks in the worse slots and bad ones in the good slots.

Just now, jaslion said:

Any reason you want to do this? Youd be going over the blck clock of the 5950x and that would lead to no performance improvement due to it (can even perform worse). Did you oc your memory controller too? This can also help achieve your goals.

 

 

fclk is synced to the memory frequency, so 1867 with 3733MHz RAM, and have validated stable fclk with 2 sticks at 2000Mhz (DDR4 4000).

So as the title says I've been having a bit of trouble trying to stabilize an overclock of my RAM and was wondering if anyone could suggest anything I can try. Memtest errors within 5% into the test

Specs:

AsRock X570 Taichi Bios 4.80 (I am aware that the memory topology of this board is Daisy Chain and is geared towards 2 sticks of RAM, but I have heard it should still be able to hit 3800MHz)

Ryzen 9 5950X

4 x 16GB G.Skill TridentZ Neo 3600MHz C16 (Dual Rank b-die) I am also aware they are different batch dates but I have validated them separately in 2 x 16 sets and they can hit 3800MHz)

I've also tried:

SoC up to 1.2v

VDDP up to 1.1v

VDDG IOD and CCD up to 1.12v

and none of those were able to affect anything, and am I missing any voltages that I should be adjusting?

Yeah honestly I'm seeing two different speeds, CPU-z looks like its reporting 1866MHz and tack manager seems to be reporting 2400MHz.

According to google, your CPU in that laptop supports up to 2400MHz and I assume its non XMP so you would need a JEDEC 2400MHz kit.

For 16GB get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU77LQW/ref=emc_b_5_t

For 32GB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU77M4I/ref=emc_b_5_t

Neither are JEDEC 2400MHz though as far as I'm aware.

Can't guarantee that those will run at 2400MHz, but this would since this is JEDEC: https://www.newegg.com/p/0FC-00KP-00001

2 minutes ago, DigineX said:

I halted PC for the months after the board didn't power up after pressing the case buttons or neither the pwr button in the Mobo. Later I was told to short the io pins removing the io plugs and it worked.

 

 

Later into windows after running for a few mins switching apps and movies, then windows crash with sudden BSOD forcing restart. The reboot layer proceed into what foretold state of not powering up followed by qcodes below

 

96 *PCI Bus Assign Resources*

 

A2 *IDE Detect*

 

00 *Not used*

 

55 *Memory not installed*

 

Tried reinserting the CMOS after 10 mins off the cell. And starting with each DIMM through slots. The pc boot with 96 again, the monitor was off so I'm not sure what went through. But the next try it failed and stuck at qcode 00.

 

 

*CPU - Intel Core i7-6850K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor*

 

*M0B0 - Asus ROG STRIX X99 Aura RGB Motherboard* 

 

*MEM0RY - Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4-3000*

 

*GPU - ASUS ROG STRIX GTX1060 06G GAMING*

 

Tail end - Any help and guidance to resurrect my only pc is highly anticipated. Done staying off my PC anymore. Attached is the BSOD screen before crash force restart. 

 

Thanks

WHEA error is usually memory related, so a good place to start would be to reset bios to default and run memtest86 if you can find a way to get around the no post, but honestly I'd blame the failed post on a dying mobo.

43 minutes ago, Nanook said:

Although I have learned Windows over the years, I never really felt that it was intuitive. Recently I have been thinking about trying out Linux, but I would like something as intuitive as possible. Some tell me that a super intuitive OS that anyone can understand is impossible, but continuously quest after such a unicorn anyways.

 

So what is the most intuitive OS out there?

Linux Lite is a Windows "feeling" version of linux, its probably one of my favorites because it works right out of the box without any tinkering. It also can run on a machine with 768MB of RAM and a 1GHz CPU.

As the title says, though this was a bit more difficult than a typical CPU because I had to heat it up with my brand new heatgun I purchased today.

Just now, FlushaDev said:

It looks pretty good now, I set my fan curve back to normal so it stays off while under 60C and ramp up when gaming, thank you so much! I've learned how to flash a GPU BIOS!

see edit real quick if you wanna reenable write protection

3 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

My guy you're a life saver, my fans are OFF! Finally! I can save some dust from clogging my cooler, thank you so much for spending your time helping a stranger! I flashed the BIOS everything went well and I hope everything will still go well, if I have any issues I'll send over a DM to ask for help, thank you so much!

No problem, I'm glad it resolved your issue, I was a bit hesitant at first but once seeing what you described to me it pointed more to a vbios issue rather than something else messing with it. also if you wanna re-enable write protection just relaunch nvflash and do: nvflash --protecton or nvflash64 --protecton depending on which worked.

7 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

Have this error spit out 

hmmm looks like its write protected, after launching nvflash use this command: NVFlash64 --protectoff press enter and then attempt to reflash.

Edit: If that command doesn't work use: nvflash --protectoff

6 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

Done, doing the flash now

Let me know how it goes, it should be pretty straightforward, the only way to brick the card would be to cancel it in the middle of the flash or if you lost power. Other than that if the bios doesn't work it just won't correctly load the driver and in that case just revert back to the old bios and that usually fixes it. I've flashed my 1080 ti to an incompatible bios and that's basically what happened and it was fixed when flashing back. Also sometimes it may not be right away that you'll notice something is wrong so i'd hold on to that bios for as long as you feel the need to as a "just in case" it never hurts.

Oh and after the flash you'll need to reboot your computer. If the fan issue still isn't resolved try DDU'ing the driver and do a clean install, if that doesn't work try an older driver to see if it's still affected, also check to see if MSI afterburner is up to date. Sometimes it can be the simplest of things. Also only use one GPU overclock tool, sometimes having 2 they can conflict with each other causing issues like that, but i'm pretty sure it was a vbios issue.

2 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

Subsystem ID here (https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/179159/gigabyte-gtx980ti-6144-151027) is 1458 36DD and mine is 1458 36DE would that be a problem

It shouldn't be a problem, but just in case make a backup of your current bios using GPU-z and save it to a safe place in case it doesn't work, that way you can easily revert back to what you had.

3 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

What can I do?

You could download that BIOS file, assuming that's the exact card you have, make sure device id and sub system id matchup (which from what I see they do but double and triple check behind me) and you can use a program called nvflash to flash that one, but make sure the card is not overclocked in any way before you flash.

Here's a detailed guide on how to do it: https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1523391-easy-nvflash-guide-pictures-gtx-970-980-a.html

4 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

This is what I get turning off the LN2 Bios -> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/222912/222912

There's a button you can hit to switch to LN2

Still seems like they've been edited, compare the BIOS Internals section between the two.

1 minute ago, FlushaDev said:

After I submit this is what I get -> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/181157/181157

Its definitely been modded, Board power limit Target: 887.0 W Limit: 900.0 W gives it away in that dump.

The default bios is: Board power limit Target: 300.0 W Limit: 390.0 W

As seen here: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/179159/gigabyte-gtx980ti-6144-151027

2 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

Got it, doing it after I finish my game, will report back

If its the correct bios it should pop this up (the actual GPU you should have): https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/gigabyte-gtx-980-ti-xtreme.b3515

Just now, FlushaDev said:

Mind sending some post explaining how to do that?

 

I edited my post, re-check it.

3 minutes ago, FlushaDev said:

Pretty sure the card was made for it since it has the fanstop thing on it's cooler 

https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N98TXTREME-6GD

As said above then you might want to look into making sure the card has the bios that came with the card when it was manufactured.

A way you can check is GPU-z, see if the bios version link you click matches the card you have in their database, it's almost always correct.