Jojobaplant

Hi Guys, This is about an issue that I found the cause for, but I am still posting this question here because I am not really sure as to how it can cause the ailment. Apologies if this is not the correct category to post this in. After completing my new build, the motherboard would not get any power. I have the Aorus X570 Master, so there's leds on the board to show me that there is power. But no dice at all. So I checked step by step: - checking if my power cable and socket were ok by testing it in another socket and using an different cable known to be working, no effect - checking if my internal cables were connected correctly both in the psu and on the board - no effect, all were connected correctly - then I took out one by one the cpu, ram, gpu etc; all no effect until I disconnected the USB2 internal headers: then it got power and it seemed like effing Xmas on the board with all them leds shining brightly So, the culprit was the usb. The internal headers both have an NZXT usb hub attached to them as I have a need for 5 internal usb devices (Corsair led nodes, Thermaltake Sync Controller and one extra Thermaltake fan hub for two stragglers). My question now is: - how can the USB2 internal header be the cause of the motherboard getting no power at all? - what is the max number of devices I can hang on such an internal USB2 header? Specs should be in the signature. Thanks a million! Gr, J.

Ok, this works: swapped cpu with old cpu and upgraded bios to F30. Swapped them back again and it works now. So, if you can't find an old usb stick or can't be bothered to buy one, you can do this as well if you have an older Ryzen processor 2000 or 3000 still. I don't think the first gen Zen is supported in 570 boards. Might be a handy tip.

I think I have a pretty good idea - since I've now disassembled my system, I will just put in my old 2700X, boot into the bios and update the bios there to F30 or whatever the newest version is. Then I will replace the cpu and I suppose that should work. Gr, J.

Hey Guys, Having the exact same thing post codes 0d briefly interchanged with A6. Did pretty much the same steps as the Hockey Stick Man, but can't even get into the bios at all. Not sure why this is happening - I specifically bought the components to be compatible: AMD R9 5950X Mobo: Aorus x570 Master rev 1.2 RAM: G-Skill Trident Royal 32Gig 3600 Zotac RTX 3070 Twin Edge OC Storage: Samsung 980 pro 500 gig for OS, 2x Sabrent 500 gig for progs and games and 4 HDD's ranging from 2 to 8 TB PSU: Corsair 850watt RMI Q flash didn't work whatsoever - but then again, I thought that these newer versions of the x570 boards were compatible with the 5000 series ootb? But it just sits there when I boot it up, slapping me with the 0d and A6 post code and the led stuck on DRAM while flashing every now and then to CPU. Don't have no signal from the graphics card, so I don't get into the bios and as said, even when I follow the steps, Q flash just sits there being pretty and nothing happens. And please tell me whether there is a way without disassembling everything - I have a dual custom hard line water loop in there, it took me nearly a week to build and disassembly and rebuilding will take me another week. Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks a million :) Gr, J.

Ah yeah, forgot: coolant now used is EK Cryofuel solid; Waterblock CPU: Alphacool's Eisblock and GPU is a MSI Geforce 1070 Seahawk. I will post pics later on when I get the chance. As for the coolant - I used Mayhem's Nuke previously, which is non-opaque and the issue was the same. Also, I used to use EK's monoblock for my mobo, but I learned that this provided too much resistance, so I changed it for the smaller Eisblock.

Hey Guys, I once again had a question. First, let me lay out my custom waterloop configuration: 1. Massive reservoir consisting of two large +/- 2 liter bricks, connected by a 45 mm wide pipe, holding 4+ liters, because it looks gorgeous, it doesn't hurt in any way, my case has the space, pump won't run out of water any time soon and why the hell not? 2. Dual EK Revo D5 pump apparently in serial mode; 3. A combined length of the waterloop (front and back) of about 5 meters; 4. 2 360 radiators + 1 120 radiator. 5. Order: Res - pump - rad - cpu - rad - GPU - rad - exit. Given that everything is rather large, I reckoned one single pump would not pull the stunt, although I previously had a single EK Revo D5, which performed, but the outlet was kinda measly, indicating that it had a lot of trouble pushing the water around. So I decided to get a dual pump, because hey, double the pump means double the power, right? Now, it started out enthusiastically with a good solid outlet that somehow impressed me. But now, after a week, ten days or so, the outlet stream has been reduced to a teenie weenie stream, not as measly as previously, but not much butter. The system is all bled out and as far as I can see, there are nowhere any bubbles in the loop that should concern me - a few tiny ones here and there. Anybody has any idea how the reduction in performance came to be? I have the pump only on molex as I learned that this way it performs at 100%. Do EK Revo D5 pumps gradually slow down over time? Or is this normal behaviour? It looks like it as it worked very well at first, ergo the size of the loop might not be the problem. Hope anybody can help me on this one. Thanks! Gr, J.

Thanks for your response! After quite a search, I think I found the solution, it's on this aliexpress page and involves apparently physically reversing the internal propellor's direction. Need to make some changes to my config next week anyway, so I will do this in one go. Here's the link, in case others might want to change the flow direction of this particular flow meter. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32850398308.html?aff_platform=link-c-tool&sk=D2eC0tFi&aff_trace_key=2f1bf67c29674ddb9fe3c12a241fd0ad-1584373427412-00331-D2eC0tFi&dp=i.parcesane.org&tmLog=new_Detail_6220&terminal_id=2af1e448a15b4d7687374848883f9897&aff_request_id=2f1bf67c29674ddb9fe3c12a241fd0ad-1584373427412-00331-D2eC0tFi Towards the bottom of the page, you will find 6 images showing you what to do. Greetings from Dublin, about to be virus-ridden. Gr, J

Hey there, I recently bought this: https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BarrowCH-G14-Digital-40mm-OLED-Display-Flow-Meter-with-RPM-Rotor-Silver_70546.html By default the inlet is on the right-hand side, but I need it on the left. According to the information on the page and on barrowch.com itself, you can change the inlet from the factory preset to left. However, I can't seem to find any information on this anywhere online on how to do this. Also, the thing didn't come with instructions or a manual leaflet or something. If anybody can help me out on how to do this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks a million! Gr, J.

Thanks! I did buy the snow edition of the case and it does fit nearly perfectly. My tank is 11.5x11.5x14.8 cm (basically an A6 paper format) and I bought a acrylic box/stand of 10x10x10cm to raise it to be higher than the pump inlet. I removed the stand towards the front from the bottom of the gap, so that the tank is more to the front of the case; with a plateau on feet attached to the stand, this should give enough stability and firmness to the tank, given that due to the hight it won't have any support from the side walls. I will post pics of it as soon as I am finished building it. Thanks again for your answer! NB: I have both of my ssd's to the back of the same gap, due to length restrictions of the sata cables, they do snuggle in perfectly there Gr, J.

Hey Guys, Just had a quick question about the internal measurements of Thermaltake's the tower 900. As I am planning to buy this case in the near future, I'd like to ask how wide are the two gaps beside the front console in the case? The case has a console in the front which can hold 2 3.5" drives in the middle and there's two gaps on both sides of this console intended to place reservoirs. I was just wondering whether anybody knows the width of these two gaps each? I will have two home made reservoirs which are both 11.5 cm wide, would they fit into there? Thanks a million! Gr, J.

The "W"-machine (W as in whatever) Hm, the case is a decade-old Cooler Master HAF 932 which I had just sitting around and with too much time on my hands I decided to give it a revamp. The loop is my very first custom build water loop. So far it's running stable afaics with following temps: CPU: 35 idle, 36-41 under average load, 46-48 under stress testing GPU: 35 idle, 44 after 30 mins of Heaven running, of which 1 benchmark on high quality and 1 on ultra high quality Water temps: idle: 26.6 with room temp of 24 and 31.3 after said 30 mins of Heaven benchmark testing RAM - haven't checked yet, but I assume they're ok Loop: RAM-CPU-GPU Rads: 1x120 and 1x360 (all that case allows for) both XSPC ultra thin white TX120 and TX360 Pump: EK-XTOP Revo D5 pwm CPU block: EK monoblock MSI X470 pro Carbon Piping: petg (2nd choice, but since it's my first and acrylic is not the easiest girlfriend, I decided on petg for now) Reservoir: home made, app. 1.8 liters capacity Fittings: Barrow, about 3 dozen of them if not more System specs: MoBo: MSI X470 Gaming pro Carbon (used for over a decade Gigabyte, but switched to MSI last year - would never ever buy an Asus) CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X @ 4.15 gHz (last time I bought an Intel was in 1998 - would never buy an Intel again - let's say I don't like monopolists) RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4x8) @3000 mHz GPU: MSI Geforce GTX 1070 Seahawk EK X 8GB (not overclocked yet) Storage: 3 nvme's (Samsung, Patriot and WD 205 GB, 480 GB and 512 GB); 2 SSD's (OCZ and HyperX both 250 GB); 2 HD's (Toshiba and Seagate Barracuda @ 3TB and @ 2TB); SoundCard (yes - I have one; onboard audio is just not good enough for me) : Sound BlasterX AE-5 PSU: Corsair RM 850i Propellors: 4 ThermalTake Riing + 120, 1 Cooler Master 230 mm (from the original case) and 1 aerocool 200 mm blue propellor, of which I removed the led). Also, I have customized cables, but you won't see them as it's paneled off - don't like too much visible cables in the case, hence I made the panels around the MoBo. Sarcastically enough, the only main cable you see is the one of the GPU power, which I forgot to order in that configuration - ordering it next week and will replace it with the light blue version once in. Color scheme is Wriyon-blue (a hint lighter than baby blue: https://www.color-hex.com/color/bee1ff )/White with some accents of very dark Green, sky blue and electric blue. The leds are in the same RGB scheme as the Wriyon blue, they seem white, but there's a hint of blue in there. Hope you like it. Made the front io panel myself - will do that again, but all the buttons, the usb3 plugs, the audio jacks the water temp reader and the general temps screen I built in myself. NB: Wriyon is a little local project that I have running here to help stir the love for reading and writing in school kids. It may not be as flashy and super duper as the other builds, but I made it all by hand without any tools except a drill, a heat gun and a sanding machine (heck, I don't even have a shed or workbench) and I am proud of it

I'm here already for a bit, but I completely forgot to say "hi". Suppose I'm the stereotypical rude Dutch person here. So: Hi from Ireland!

Sorry for getting back so late - been rather busy last couple of days. The problem has fixed itself: slowly but surely the bubble got smaller and now that I changed the test liquid for the final coolant, there is no bubble at all anymore - as you can see in the picture. Have some other (minor) issues, but I will figure that out once I get the time to get to that. In the mean time thanks a million for your answers and suggestions! Greatly appreciated. Shortly I will post pics of my first custom water loop build in the respective gallery Gr, J.

They have been fixed already before I took this picture. I just left the paper towel on there. All leaks have been fixed and what you see in wetness there is residue from previous leaks. So it's all good so far. In fact, I still have that paper towel laying there and the spills have dried by now.

Hi turtle, Thank you for your reply. The right one on this pic is indeed the input while the one with the pocket in it is the output. I hope there's a way to fix this if this is not normal. Thanks again! Gr, J.