Cirga

I've seen better cable management but I have certainly seen worse.

Specs and stuff:
AMD 5900x Asus ROG Strix x570-E Gaming Gigabte RTx 3080 Gaming OC 10G 32GB Patriot Viper DDR4 Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240L NZXT H510 1TB samsung 970 EVO Plus 6TB total of spinning rust Elgato 4k60 Pro Mk2 27" Gigabyte 1440p 170Hz monitor 24" Acer secondary monitor XP Pen Artist Pro 15.6 AKG K702 headphones Rode NT1A that runs into a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Gen2 Also featured is my Switch, Valve Index, one of my cameras, a couple of fountain pens and a doodle.
 

 
The work setup:
To be honest I do not want to list out EVERYTHING since there is a lot of stuff. Also I have spent some time this year drastically streamlining the setup for better single-operator use since it's typically just me having to look after the place solo.
Some of the standout bits and bobs though:
Yamaha QL5 4x Blackmagic Studio cameras Various bits of rack mounted Blackmagic hardware include ATEM switches and Videohubs Blackmagic ATEM 1M/E Advanced Panel Not enough Stream Decks that I use Bitfocus Companion with A LOT of lights, most of which can be controlled by DMX A bunch of other stuff.... There's a lot I can talk at length about broadcast kit so I am MORE than happy to answer questions on it. If money was no object, I would love an Ultimatte to include in the setup somewhere for experimenting with more virtual set stuff. The ATEM switch does have keying tools but more toys are always cool.
 

 

I have wanted one of these ever since I traded away my previous indy years ago

1993 SGI Indy with IRIX 6.5


 
this one has been restored fully, sd scsi emulator, rebuilt power supply, replaced cmos battery with a modern 2032, recapped all around, even has a pin arctic psu fan

 
downside to this psu rebuild is it loses the molex, not sure why, normally this has two molex connectors 
which I previously just used on my last Indy to put cold cathodes in there so I probably don’t need them anyway 

I am currently finishing my masters in Electrical Engineering, and I work on machine learning/AI models pretty much all day everyday. We recently sold the farm (literally) so I built a new workstation to help with my modeling. Honestly, I don't have much time for gaming anymore but I bet this thing would game like a beast 🤣
 
Computer specs:
Threadripper 7970X, ASUS TRX50-SAGE WIFI mobo, 2x MSI RTX 4090's with EK full coverage blocks, 128GB DDR5 at 6000 MHz, 1x Sabarent Rocket 8TB, 1x Samsung 990 Pro 4TB, Seasonic Prime ATX 3.0 PX-1600 PSU, Case: Corsair 7000D Air-Flow, Fans (All Noctua): 7x NF-A12x25, 4x NF-A12x15, 1x NF-A14.
 
I am actually fairly proud of the amount of radiators I was able to fit in this case. Mainly putting this out here incase anyone else is curious about what is possible as far as radiators in the 7000D, as this config is definitely not officially supported. They are all EK "White" radiators: 1x P360 X-Flow (Top), 1x P480(Front), 1x S480 (Side), 1x S140 (Rear).
 
A few mods had to be made: I had to do a little "clearancing" with a Dremel tool on the rear top 120mm fan to get the fittings to....fit. Next, EK's vertical pump mount would (just barely) not fit when mounted to the front rad, as it caused the pump to hit the basement cover. Instead of bolting the pump to the face of the mount as it was intended I cut a larger slot in the mounting bracket and bolted the pump to "backside" of the mount. This gave enough room to fit the pump/res. Due to the length of the EK 480mm rad up front I had to do a also had to give the mounting bracket for the 7000D a little bit of a workover with the Dremel as well. Finally, the original PCI-Express slot metal brackets of the 4090's were triple slot. I wanted to be able to fit the GPU's in the top two slots so that I can use the other slots for more expandability. So I cut down the PCI-Express brackets to dual slot.
 
Also, I really wanted a distro block for the 4090's but after contacting EK they apparently do not (currently) make a distro block for the their "Vector2" blocks. And because this thing will most likely be getting a set of 5090's whenever they come out, I opted to go with soft-tubing so that it's easy to change out later.
 

 

 
This shows the alternate way of mounting the res:

 

finally after much headaches it is done. New h6 flow case and thermalright aio 
ryzen 5700x
rtx 3060
64gb silicon power rgb ram
B550 plus mobo 
crucial p3 pro 2tb nvme 
Off name psu. 
Hovxjzk 850W 80 Plus Gold Power
Came with white cables so  hope it’s a good one

I am shocked. It's a Palomino Athlon XP with what appears to be all the mods. Whomever had this board and CPU knew what they were doing - went beyond what I can do:


Also means that the board+heatsink can handle my Duron 1300, and might be good for unlocking the L2 cache.

I feel like this thing counts at least as "old".
It's a HP ProLiant ML370 G5, equipped with dual quad-core Xeon E5440s, 40GB of DDR2-555 FBDIMM registered, dual redundant 1000W PSUs and 6 loud hotswappable fans.
There are no drives installed, apart from a 16GB USB-Drive that contains Windows 10. It takes absolute ages to boot, but it doesn't have onboard SATA, so I can't put a harddrive in it to speed it up.
But once the OS loads, it runs quite well, and it got 3111 points in cinebench r23.

I got my first Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000 keyboard in 2005 and I liked it.  Had to replace it in 2015.  Come 2024 and that second keyboard was in bad shape but Microsoft discontinued in 2019.  I couldn't really find a mechanical that ticked the boxes I wanted ticked either.  On eBay these go New In Box/New Old Stock for USD$350 eve.  So plan B: Call up old Mom & Pop computer stores with sun faded stock in their windows and find one.  Got this for CAD$55, the last one they had, one side of the box was faded from bright red to light pink even.  A hoarded up store, everything piled up, you couldn't even get past the door, but they had one and only one.  'You're lucky, I looked this up on eBay after I agreed to CAD$55.'.
 
I'm too old for significant change and I like the media keys.
 

Pristine👌🏻

Was wondering why this Celeron 333 was running so hot. Anyone notice the 24 year old mistake?


 

Kinda funny that the thread has gone on for so long that while it’s not retro, it is a 12 year old laptop.
When this thread was made a similar aged laptop would be the thinkpad S30
pic related, my S30 as a size comparison to an X1 nano, 20 years apart


and really the x1 nano is thinner for sure, but it’s footprint is still bigger
the s30 is the same depth

What's the fan and big...metal plate for? I'm just as confused as your build i think 😅

I posted this elsewhere but I just got around to taking finalized pictures of my hobby room.

Old hobby space before I moved.

New setup 


Close up of pc. Small screen is a 7" RPI touchscreen I was going to use in my car but decided against it and it now serves as passive media consumption screen while I work on the big screen.


Printers



Other hobby space. Not pictured is the recently added PC and 3d scanner.

Here is my current setup that I have upgraded quite significantly recently
 
Went from Rtx 2070 and i7 8700k to Ryzen 7 7800x3d and Rtx 4070
 
Specs
Case: NZXT h700i
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B650-A
CPU: Ryzen 7 7800x3d 
Cooler: Corsair h100x elite rgb
Video card: MSI GeForce RTX 4070 12gb Ventus 3x 
Ram: Corsair Vengeance 32 gb ddr5 6000mhz CL36 
Storage: Kingston Fury Renegade 2tb m.2 & 2tb Seagate HDD
PSU: Evga 850w
 
Peripherals
Monitor: Gigabyte 27" M27Q IPS QHD 170 Hz 
Keyboard: Corsair k70 mk2 
Mouse: Logitech G Pro wireless 
Headset: HyperX Cloud Flight Wireless
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Excellent.  Don't bring your peripherals to your computer....bring your computer to your peripherals 😄 

Hi don't judge but for some reason I can't game on a desk, so I made my set up rlly weird... PC: M-itx i7 11700f, 3060, 32gb ram 3600 MHz. it's motorized to go up and down and to tilt the desk (it has a 12v 15A psu so I can charge Lithium batteries, a 100rpm reductor (for tilt) and a drill gearbox with motor (to go up and down), and as I like to play sim racing from time to time this "weird" set up it's very versatile as you can play with a chair, on the bed, on the couch, or just watch movies.
ps: my mobo doesn't have rgb headers, so I used an arduino conected internally to the usb on the mobo (I run a java script with which I can change the "modes" and colors), an H bridge to run the colors, a generic led strip and everything is connected to the psu.

I upgraded my first-gen Mac Mini G4, with an mSATA to PATA SSD, no more worrying about the ancient spinning drive going bad.
 

I dont know if this counts, but it was my first build about 10-11 years ago. Still runs and works but outdated, I just finished my new build this month.

Dont ask me bout the scissors, chaos, gpu or why I screenshoted some pictures, I'm lazy, k?

 

Pretty similar to when previously posted.
4080 replacing 2080, still need to water block it though. New Kanto speaker stands for the Q Acoustics make a huge difference. 

Most of my Battle Station is very much WIP, but this, this is done and I am super happy with it

And yeah I can use all of them with my PC, most of the older stuff are modern USB replicas, and I have an adaptor for the Nintendo stuff, cause even for the replicas that came with the minis they hate USB!

Only thing I would like to add is a Dreamcast controller, but waiting on the one that (I want to say Retro Bit) have in the works, I am also considering a DualShock 4, but I don't really need one

Here it is my modest setup rocking a RTX 3060Ti paired with an old ryzen 7 2700x, 2x8GB 3200mhz sitting chill around 30C° gpu and 35C° cpu. 
 
Because of the 30 min DIY mod at the intake that has a PMW fan synced with the exhaust I'm getting an improvement of -15°C overall. 
While in full load the max temps for GPU is sitting @65-70C° and CPU 59C°.

with a pair of new wireless devices, i went and ordered an adaptor that plugs into a motherboard header and turns it into two USB type-a ports so i can set my receivers inside the case. works as expected and saves a pair of ports on the back. If I'm lucky, it might, in theory anyway, make for a better wireless connections as they are closer and there's less metal case between the mouse/keyboard, and the receivers.

with a pair of new wireless devices, i went and ordered an adaptor that plugs into a motherboard header and turns it into two USB type-a ports so i can set my receivers inside the case. works as expected and saves a pair of ports on the back. If I'm lucky, it might, in theory anyway, make for a better wireless connections as they are closer and there's less metal case between the mouse/keyboard, and the receivers.

with a pair of new wireless devices, i went and ordered an adaptor that plugs into a motherboard header and turns it into two USB type-a ports so i can set my receivers inside the case. works as expected and saves a pair of ports on the back. If I'm lucky, it might, in theory anyway, make for a better wireless connections as they are closer and there's less metal case between the mouse/keyboard, and the receivers.