RobinHtk

I went to the only PC parts store still opened near me, they had an MSI keyboard with cherry, and it was a revelation, no stupidly loud click ! This type of keys do not bother me, and I can live throught the transition from chiclet-type key caps to regular ones. I'm gonna seek a store where I can try some Corsairs keyboards and certainly turn myself towards the K68 or a model similar to this one thanks again !

Thanks for the vocabulary, knowing the terms is gonna help me a lot. Even tho I don't like the Razer brand much, the Deathstalker was the "best one" in the kind of configuration I like. I might have to open myself to mechanical keyboards like the Corsair K60... If someone has any recommandations for a good mechanical keyboard that doesn't wake up the neighbours i'm interested to test it ^^

Hi, after a search on the forum, I create this topic to find my answer ! I never jumped on the mechanical frenzy, and always have loved low profile key caps on my keyboards. For years, I've been using an old and fidel logitech keyboard, and recently I've been using a Razer Deathstalker. This one is very good, but I could only find it in used condition, and the poor boy is starting to age badly. I would like to know if there is keyboards with a similar key caps "height" than the razer deathstalker, while being a little more "modern". I'm open to mechanical keyboards, but i usually really hate the sound and feeling. My budget is around 120 $ tops, I've seen that non-mechanical keyboards never cost much ^^ Thanks in advance ! Here's a pic of the type of keyboard i mentionned

Clearly better built than mine, well done! My worst idea was to take the XC version of the 2060, one fan is not a good idea ?

Still, it worked for me However, is this what you are talking about ? Well, i may be loosing some of it, but the pressure really helps my system, the gpu was really in need of cool air managing to get to it's fan. It maybe wasn't necessary to take the 140mm ones i'll admit. At 700 rpm they are way cooler than the 120 mm that i had previously, the total system didn't change much but the gpu is actually at 28°C on idle instead of 33°. EDIT: By the way, i still have to see how high in rpm i can set them for the idle without too much noise being generated. The gain is real for me, and even if the way it is built is cutting like 10% of the 140mm fans, i already see results. Those Xtraflos fans seems to be fine tho, the airflow must be really strong.

Well, just received my Noctuas NF-P14s redux 1500 and did put them in the front of my case. I do not have time yet to test different situations and all, but at 700-ish rpm mu GPU dropped from 34/33°C to 30/31°C at idle. The two 120 PureWings 2 were always at 1085rpm minimum. I suspect that the cool air was directly sucked by my CPU cooler and my gpu couldn't really enjoy it, with more strenght in the airflow, it seems to be able to feed the gpu in fresh air. Tomorrow, i'll test different games and stress test to see if it actually helped.

I just cried man. It's 8am here and this day wasn't starting easily, and then i stumbled on your epic build, it makes me trust the human race once again ! We can save the world!

Well, at 30€ /34 USD, i can get 2 ML140 from corsair or 2 NF6P14s Redux 1500 rpm from Noctua. A case that is good for airflow and that i would choose is the Meshify C (My condo is geared in white, and i want the case to fit that theme) and it is 100€/113 USD here in France. So i could buy something like 4 industrial ppc noctuas at that price, i get your point :). My Be quiet Pure Wings 2 make a good job providing airflow anyway, it is just sad to know that i could win easily some degrees by providing more pressure from the intakes, since they are blocked by that stupid front panel

Thanks, every internet topics or tech reviews seems to indicate that Noctua are the king of efficient cooling. But since i have only 2 120mm or 2 140mm spot on the front, shouldn't i take 140mm ones to maximize my intake? Those Noctua NF-P14s Redux-1500 PWM seems to be the same that the ones you advised me to pick, just bigger.

Sorry in advance for my pictures quality ! Here is my cooling setup : And in this spoiler is the reason why i think i should buy static pressure fans. I searched a little about this and apparently ML140 are good in static pressure, but they might kill my silent-ish setup

Hi! Since i've had an upgrade from a GTX 1060 to a RTX 2060, I've noticed that my case cooling might be need to be improved, in order to reduce the max temperatures of my new xc gaming from EVGA. It reaches 77°C in full load after like 10mins, and this is with a pretty aggressive fan curve. My config is : CPU : Ryzen 5 2600X Motherboard : MSI B450M Mortar Titanium RAM : 16Gb G.Skill TridentZ 3200Mhz GPU : EVGA RTX2060 XC gaming Case : Phanteks Eclipse P300 PSU : Cooler Master MasterWatt 650 Monitor : Asus VS229 Cooling Arctic Freezer 33 / 4 PureWings 2 for the case (2 intake, 2 outtake) Sound : Wood system from Genius and a good headset OS: Win 10 64Bits Since my case is the Eclipse P300 from Phanteks, the front panel is pretty restrictive as for airflow, since it only have openings on top and bottom of the front, both are filtered (but the filter do not stop too much of the airflow) I recently did put a 4th 120mm fan in exhaust position because i thought the exhaust of hot air was taking too long after a stress on the gpu. Balancing the airflow is not that easy. By the way, someone advised me to put 2 SP140 from Corsair in the front as intakes, would it improve the cooling? Knowing that, actually it is 2 of my 120 Pure Wings 2 pwm from be quiet (i love that brand and took 4 of em, but i'm feeling like the airflow is a bit weak). EDIT: I can add pictures if you do not know this case or to give you a better vision of my situation

Sorry, my english might be confusing since it is not my native language. I did not install GFE this time when i installed the 419.17 drivers, and i never installed the GFE software on any of my pc I always take care to only install the drivers, like you just advised me to do (I'll however admit that, once, i was in a hurry and did let it slip throught the installer but i erased it immediatly). My question here is : Is GFE needed to enjoy my RTX 2060 to the fullest? On the web, i saw that people were mad because the DLSS function could only be achieved if the consumer downloaded DLSS datas by GFE to then be able to enjoy it (This is what some said on reddit). And the strangest thing is that i did not have any problem with Apex Legends and Anthem before their "Nvidia rtx compatibility patchs" and now i do! Hence the wondering if it is a driver and/or software issue, unrelated to the games themselves. I know those games juste use the turing gpu like any other architecture, but why the heck is it not working, if it was before

It works just fine in every games except in Origin games since today. Anthem, Apex Legends and Battlefront 2 can launch but immediatly crash. There was updates on those games not so long ago and I did not play to them since those updates. Im on 419.17 and never had any problem in other games or those glitchy games before those updates. I was asking for the necessity of Geforce Experience concerning DLSS and Ray Tracing, even if those games don't use it, I thought i might had forgot an element like the GFE software. Since I've never used it i thought that nvidia may have pulled of a good joke forcing people to install it to download data concerning the Turing cards functions. Below is my system :

Hello LTTers. I am rocking the EVGA RTX 2060 XC gaming and recently I have perma crashes in certain games, and I was wondering if Nvidia did put a joke in this card line-up by forcing us to install geforce experience in order for it to work properly? I never used this software but, I don't know what to do and i'd prefer no to install GFE if I do not have to.

Yes the XC gaming is the single fan one, the XC ultra is the 2 fan version . As @Lexicalje said, it can happen when the gpu is new. But since it is always linked to the conductors used by the manufacturer, the Strix cards most certainly have different ones on it's pcb. But even then, they always vibrate, it is juste that the frequency of that vibration is most often too high to be heard by human ear. I am just unlucky to have a card that experiences coil whine. Hopefully, temperature and heavy loads seems to have started to stabilize the coils, it seems that in the end it might disappear or at least reduce enough to be acceptable. Let's hope what happens to Lexicalje happens to me :D

I saw that happen too, but more with temperature, when it goes passed 70°C it gets better. I overclocked it right away and had acceptable thermals but since then i reverted it to stock and started to have thermal issues I don't know if it is often like that when jumping from an older gpu architecture to a new one, but it is quite troubling.

I usually hate to double post, but meh. I am in touch with EVGA technical support, and they said that putting the card to burn tests might attenuate or supress the coil whine. In addition, they said that my PSU might be the cause of that GPU coil whine. My config is : CPU : Ryzen 5 2600X CPU COOLER : Arctic Freezer 33 (60°C on load, 64°C max temp ever) GPU : EVGA RTX 2060 XC gaming (switching from a PALIT StormX GTX 1060 6Gb, that ran with the same system with no problem for 6 months) RAM : G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200Mhz CL16-18-18-38 @1.35v PSU : Cooler Master MasterWatt 650 (No coil whine on psu nor gpu while using the 1060) CASE : Phanteks Eclipse P300 Tempered Glass CASE FANS : 3 be quiet! Pure Wings 2 PWM - 1 outtake and 2 intake Should i buy another PSU just to see if there is an issue of inconstancy in the power delivering? That would be strange since i had no problem with my 1060 that was OC to the roof (+200Mhz core/+650Mhz memory). In addition, the coil whine is really less loud in benchmark, I'd even say that it is totally acceptable. But in games it is really audible and pissing me off ?. This is the fan curve I HAD to set if I didn't want that card to go passed 80°C. And the next spoiler is Hardware monitor curve after some Heaven loops 1080p extreme. So is there anything that should not look the way it looks? Thanks in advance.

I only do that when I am moving my computer from one place to another, every month. Should i just turn it off by windows and then unplug everything? It doesn't seem like a good idea. My motherboard is a MSI b450m mortar titanium I think i did enable in the BIOS the option that allegedly protect the computer from sudden change in tension and all (I'll find the exact name lol)

Hello LTT people, I have a strange phenomenon on my pc since i built it. When i turn off my psu, if I ever push the power switch of my case it still starts for about half a second. That certainly means that there is some residual electricity, but is it safe or did I do something wrong?

My brand new EVGA RTX 2060 XC gaming has severe coil whine even if no test revealed it when i searched for possible issues before the buy. As said before, it really can happen to any card. I'm so sad XD I think i'll RMA mine and hope the next one doesn't have any.

Hi there, I just got my hands on a EVGA RTX 2060 XC gaming and it works pretty well, except that mine goes up to 76°C (i even hit 80°C in some games..) and I am experiencing COIL WHINE. It is making me crazy even if I only had it for 2 days. My post here is to ask if anyone has the same problem on this video card. Because if it's not often that it happens I should definitely RMA it.

For 200 there is GTX 1060. It can power most of games at ultra in 1080p, but if it is not optimised or really heavy you won't always hit the 60 fps target.

I just found the specs for ram with your cpu, it should work, maybe the RAM you have works with a different voltage? It is specified here that it should be 1.35V : Memory Specifications for i7-7700K Max Memory Size (dependent on memory type)64 GB Memory TypesDDR4-2133/2400, DDR3L-1333/1600 @ 1.35V Max # of Memory Channels2 ECC Memory Supported ‡No EDIT : Depending on wich model you bought, I see online that if this is this one : Ballistix Sport LT 16 Go DDR4 2400 MHz CL17 (Ref: BLS16G4D240FSB) it runs at 1.2V so it might still be a compatibility issue

You can go on EKWB website, they have waterblocks for every cards (or almost), they sure have for a lot of vega 64, it certain if it is the reference pcb (I do not know if AMD gpus have custom pcbs sometimes) EDIT: here it is https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist you can see for yourself, but of course they must be cheaper waterblocks, and then you need radiator and pump so it'll not be a cheap upgrade

Thanks for the information, I know what I am gonna do tonight ! I only "recently" fell into electronics, I have always been a "nerd" but i never did take the time to actually learn all I could about it. Since that last 3 years I have learn so much, thanks to help me build up on that knowledge EDIT: By the way, I am french and pardon me for my english, i hate to verify my sentences on a lowsy online translator so some of my words might not be the best choice