Owen Chief

Hi there I wonder if anyone can please help as I try to figure out what exactly has happened here, I've been using my monitor fine for a number of years and getting 144hz no problem, but then I moved my monitor to a table mount instead of the stand yesterday and all of a sudden it started to show only 100hz was available. I am using a 1080Ti with a BenQ XL2720Z Monitor. What is really weird is it doesn't even show a 60hz option just 100hz, and i've noticed that some text in lets say discord looks a bit scuffed So far to try to fix this problem I have: DDU drivers and reinstalled DDU drivers and tried previous Nvidia driver version manually overclocking it in Nvidia control panel but then the monitor just goes black until the timer runs down and goes back to 100hz using advanced display settings and going into display adapter properties and using list all modes, it is still not showing a different DP cable tried all ports on the GPU with aforementioned cables into the monitor reset the monitor through the advanced service menu the HDMI support only supports upto 60hz so cant try that Does anyone know what is happening or had it happen to them before?? I don't have another monitor here to see if the problem is the GPU or if the monitor is the problem, so that limits the process of elimination somewhat and I don't have any friends close by where i could borrow a monitor to try this on. The GPU hasn't been acting strange or artifacting or anything within windows and aside from this although its a bit of an older system there hasn't been anything noticeable, so would assume the GPU seems to be fine? is there a way to check through the computer what is causing this? I'm looking for ideas please if there is any or if anyone had a similar issue what the culprit was thanks to anyone who takes the time to read

I turned vcore voltage down, finally got it stable at 1.28 which may have helped Actually what I done was really tighter the hell out of the CPU block, previously it sounded like going further may break it but there was still so much more to tighten it would appear.. Even as I was pretty nervous doing it. I used pliers because the heatsinks on the z390 master are so close you struggle to get your fingers/hand in to do it and I really tightened it all up. Temps dropped by around 20 degrees now gaming in valorant is mid 40's max, Warzone is around mid 50s to low 60's and RDR2 was around high 40s ranging to high 50s after gaming for many hours and the ambient temp going up. The EK Velocity block it was weird, it felt if i tightened it more previously I would risk breaking the thread of the screw/thumb screw and it made a horrible noise to indicate you are really tight when in actual fact its really not.

Hi Guys, I'm looking for suggestions as to why my temps are what I feel to be higher than expected. i run a EK custom hard tubing loop https://imgur.com/a/RwWCYDv - to understand the setup, any questions or if you feel I have missed anything I'm happy to answer intel i9 9900k - stock speeds/turbos Aorus Xtreme 2080ti 32gb corsair vengeance 3200mhz Z390 Aorus master Lian-Li O11 Dynamic XL case EK stuff used is : Blocks EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 - pump/res combo EK velocity CPU block EK vector GPU block (GPU mounted standard, not vertical) 2x 360mm radiator top and bottom push pull running on a 360PE EK radiator bottom and push out only on top SE 360mm radiator 1 Rear exhaust fan - (mostly as the back of the fan looks bad rgb wise, it was more aesthetically pleasing to have it exhaust) ** I use Corsair 7x ML120, as I had other Corsair stuff in my build, and it matched RGB, etc. But I use 3x EK Vardar on the very bottom of the case on the push side of the bottom PE rad as they are out of sight. GPU Temps are great, idling low 30's constantly and in gaming around the mid 50s or so. Very happy no complaints here. My CPU however I seen in Warzone was going as high as 79 degrees C today. I am aiming purely for a silent set up so it wasn't about overclocking, so I tried increasing the fan curves up and actually tried the D5 on full and fans on nearly full and even then the CPU was still going to high 60's, and 73-75 max in Cod: Warzone. I have already tried re-seating the CPU block 3 or 4 times, (2 times for various other reasons unrelated to this where I had to drain it a couple of times and switch some stuff out). I'm using Thermal Grizzly hydronaut thermal compound spread out evenly. I initially thought I used too much previously which led to a more even spread before coming back to similar results. I haven't altered any voltage or anything, although I had to disable some states in the bios because I was getting some annoying whining noises with c1e/c6 states enabled. The high pitched noise was killing my soul so this has increased idle temps slightly, but this wouldn't affect load temps surely. I get great performance in all games I play at 2k resolution, and like I say although I may OC in the future to give my machine a bit more life to it the main aim was silent gaming in the office in the house I share with my partner TL;DR - my temps are hitting high 70s at times in CoD: Warzone and one time peaked at 80c, I understand this is a very CPU intensive game but still, that seems really high given my 2x 360mm rad setup?

I'd say you now have an expensive door stop sadly I wouldn't risk filing a closed loop back up manually, I'd say you will never get close to the same performance that it would offer. However should you want to risk it, you could try and fill it back up as best you can, seal it on tightly, tilt and shake it around to get the air bubbles gone.. open it back up and top off coolant, rince and repeat a few times until you're fairly confident there is little to no air pockets left. It's not a typical reservoir where the air pockets will rise so any air bubbles left in that thing will be circling around the loop ultimately impacting performance. Note that I don't recommend the latter but push comes to shove you could try it and monitor temps while running stress tests. I've had my fair share of expensive hits in my 20 odd years as a pc enthusiast, voided some warranty's and had to take the rough with the smooth and no matter how many years go past, its a bitter pill to swallow at the time

I did hard tubing for my first watercooling loop and never looked back, it just looks and feels far cleaner spend a few quid getting the bending tools/kit to do 90's and you can manage most of it by hand if your competent enough, I had to use 1 2x45 degree fitting for one out of sight fitting but the rest I managed to practice and find my way around and with the use of EK leak tester I didn't put my system at any risk. 1 Particular bend was a bit of a pain but managed to pull it off on the 2nd attempt. I could have spun the res around but wanted it to look cleaner with the front facing outward on my desk Get some extra tubes to practice on as that will cost you a shit load less than using lots of fittings which will ultimately look worse than juse using soft tubing to begin with

personally I used ML120 on my radiator because I wanted to, I wouldn't recommend them for a 60mm radiator for sure but for a 20-38mm I've had no issues.. they're nicer to look at and if the fins are quite spaced out on the rad you won't have much issues. My temps have been fine edit: I'm not saying you should get ML120, merely pointing out that I didn't use SP specific fans much like you're asking, after that its personal preference. Personally I prefer the notos but its your build

First and foremost W-L thanks for taking the time to reply to me I do appreciate you going out your way been fairly busy recently with other things so got around to doing the following that you suggested to try eliminate this: I tried using molex instead of the pwm using an adapter I had delivered but the same issue with the static/high pitch noise I then ordered a replacement reservoir unit from amazon, as stripping out the pump is possible without having to drain it if you just lay it down flat and screw on the pump, that process was fine however the other pump had the same high pitch noise so I swapped the pump back out and returned the 2nd unit. I have seen people online speak about this noice when discussing DDC pumps so perhaps it's normal, and some people who are more succeptible to higher pitch noise frequency are able to hear it better than others. I really love this distro plate but the more I googled online the more it seemed to be deemed as normal that DDC pumps do emit a high pitch noise during operation, so yesterday I contacted the company I bought the distro plate from and explained my issue and they agreed to RMA and refund it I won't lie I'm pretty sad, I've ordered a EK quantum tbe 300 with D5 instead https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-quantum-kinetic-tbe-300-d5-pwm-d-rgb-pump-reservoir-combo-plexi-wc-9wv-ek.html which will be delivered tomorrow. I really wish I could've kept the distro plate though as its almost like a nice wee work of art and really made my first loop I've done feel complete Everyone is of the same opinion online that I can see that a D5 is the way to go if you crave a more silent build (well obviously the pump will make a noise.. but not the electrical/static noise) the best way to describe it is, it was like a dampened version of the c1e issues some people have when its enabled and the computer is idling.. or a bit like very mild coil whine from a PSU (not to that extent.. but its ever present)

Witcher keycap finally came yesterday to complete the rig lol

Could be an idea, I did look at getting the thermaltake Riing Trio's instead as they still look beautiful from both sides but find thats a major headache as then its just running more RGB software from different vendors.. the ram/led strips are corsair and I already have the commander pro/lightning node pro etc not to mention that 6 fans will set you back around £230 ($296) so I quickly started to disregard that option.. plus it slightly annoyed me they used a molex connection in their hub instead of a sata, as that means even more cables having to come from the PSU.. I mean who even uses Molex these days..?! (I am aware there is molex to sata adapters, but its the principle and thats more money) Would be nice if you could just flip these fans to run in reverse but still keep the nice shiny look they have, but have the fins in opposite direction.. still waiting for the day the devs finally listen and do this

I'll try fish out the PWM to molex adapter I bought recently to fill up the loop and give that a try later Thanks W-L

maybe its just my rose tinted glasses but i did need to drain my system to RMA the cpu block (light issues) and change over the radiator.. now getting the distro block in question empty proved rather difficult and the best way I found ot do it was instead of going blue in the fact trying to blow a bit of pressure through with my mouth.. well basically i attached the EK leak tester and I used a pump to blow air to force it out.. I don't remember the static noise being quite as bad as it was last night to the point i was getting so strung out.. I wonder could that have damaged the pump? getting the water to move was a real ball ache at times so you wre having to build up pressure, tilt the case and let it go a bit to move it.. (as beautiful as the distro block is, draining it when you have 2 x 360 rads is for sure a pain..)

I've been pretty lucky with no coil whine since a psu from 10 years ago and then a GPU i had years later I believe it was an old radeon. Since then I've been lucky (albeit I RMA the graphics card under my 14 day return and got a different one which solved it) (Having to disable c1e on the bios aside that let off a super static high pitch noise in the last year) What would be the implications of muffling or stifling this noise? I am guessing I need to not cover the back of it due to heat dissipation? having my hand over the back of the pump it completely silences the static high pitched noise. I have a lot of 3M pads and masking tape! lol I do realise that there is heat sink material inside the units I'm led to believe, the thing is would covering it completely damage the unit or cause it to overheat? I would love a soundproof modded box to slip around it but such a thing won't exist lol I did lookat other DDC pumps I could swap it out for such as https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-plexi-incl-pump (would seem pretty easy to remove hte plexi part and fix it to the block as all the DDC pumps are standard size, although most people I read just say to get a D5 that sadly isnt an option.. I did a ton of research before venturing on this project and the distro block I felt gave me the perfect mix of style and performance/silence

this is the pump that came with the Lian Li o11 distro block (https://www.ekwb.com/news/o11d-distro-plate-g1-the-result-of-perfect-collaboration-with-lian-li/), this is my first custom loop and its making a high pitched sound.. its almost like a static noise at times.. I have managed to isolate it as if I put my hand over the back of the unit it completely silences it Is this normal? the whole point of going water cooled was to do with silence for me and having a high pitched whine sure is spoiling that. I've tried turning the pump speed down which does help a little bit (but also gains around 8-10c temp by reducing it greatly) according to core temp.. taking the cpu to higher 60's instead of high 50s with it on full speed (under load) I mean the sound is almost like a static noise, and quite high pitched.. is that normal? I have read the ddc pumps run quite hot so I suppose putting something around it is out of the question too?

lightly tap the tubes with a screwdriver or pen and watch the tiny bubbles float away. I had that on my first fill (albeit not quite as extreme as this) but they shifted pretty fast after I tapped around the tubes I would agree this looks more like residue to have as many but give it a try and see what happens

I have set up a custom loop in the Lian Li, these photos are actually a few days old as I returned the bottom radiator and opted instead for a push pull EK PE 360 rad instead of the XE.. (also the cpu block lighting was faulty so thats now replaced last night, i just didnt get a chance to take a picture) the reason being the hot air was being dumped onto my desk as I couldnt run push pull with the XE, that is neither here nor there.. but gets me into my main issue: since Ive changed to push pull I've had to flip the ML120 around so im now staring at the back which in principle is fine but now because of the angle I'm sitting at my desk.. I can see 6 little leds directly.. has anyone came up with a mod of some sort so that instead of looking at a bright led you can obscure it a bit so it looks like the way it would on a regular exhaust scenario? I can turn the specific leds off in iCue, but it just looks a bit meh to disable 6 of 12 leds and means light is only coming from the inner half of the fans.. surely there is another method i'm not seeing or could get? a bigger sticker or centre wouldnt work really since the air would blow it, but maybe a mod? has anyone else experienced this.. I used to have LL series fans but went for the ML as they are slightly less.. in your face so to speak

Hi Mick, I know its a bit late but it all fitted great, and i just wanted to say thanks, I love this case and im glad I stuck with it. It was a little bit close but i still have 1.5cm of space and the ambient and all other temps are great so it has no effect and I didnt have to put fans on the outside. I took your advice and changed to 3x 120 fans at front (added a seperate one above the 240mm radiator that came with the aorus 2080ti) and a larger 140mm exhaust to the rear of the case Take care buddy

see you get me I love this case, but i understand why people might want a bit more length to the case. I'm going to go with your idea, with desk space and a few other factors I want to try avoiding switching case if i can may need to come back on and will update edit - not sure i could do push pull as the aorus card is 290mm in length, will be struggling for space i think with a push pull

Where I do appreciate people's opinion on the matter, its totally off topic on what I am actually asking. would running 1 intake (from the rear) and 4 exhausts (2 top, 2 front) be feasible? or would it be better to run intakes on the radiator at the front from inside the case it would mean 1x 140mm fan is creating cool air for the radiators which seems like a big ask, but not pulling in any warm air from the radiators would be better for the components inside surely? I have no plans to overclock anything, so this is based on stock speeds. my cpu currently idles around 25 and full load under aida64 was around 65c maxing out at 70c to give you an idea of current case temps

MSI Seahawk 1080

I do love the cable management in that I can just throw everything in the back of it out of sight and it looks nice and clean at the front though. This case has served me well since i got it in 2015 i think it was what case were you thinking of?

Hi folks looking for some tips please as to how to go about this. I have a Corsair Carbide 540 Air case, currently I have a 240mm radiator at the top of the case (exhaust fans) (ek predator AIO cooler), 2 x 120mm intake fans at the front and 1x 120mm radiator (MSI Seahawk 1080 GPU) that is exhausting out the back through the radiator however I am looking to upgrade my GPU currently I love the look of the Gigabyte Aorus 2080 ti Waterforce xtreme, however this is a 240mm radiator instead of the 120mm I have currently on my 1080 so to do this I would need to mount this to the only place that could facilitate this which would be the front of the case. So the question is, if I changed the rear to a 120mm intake fan, would this be enough if i kept the top radiator the same (exhaust) and did the 2 fans exhausting through the 240mm radiator on the front. hopefully this makes sense, i have attached a couple of pics, one of the case barebone and one of the setup currently, lighting perhaps not ideal so ive also tried using the flash. Would this work? Silent is the biggest thing as I game in the bedroom and the wife hates noise, which is why i initially changed away from fan cooling when i bought the 1080 seahawk card Or do you have a better idea?