Buddhaz_Priest

So, title is the main issue, but I can't find any info about it because all you find on Google is people trying to figure out how to get apps to play in the background or to get the phone to NOT go to sleep. Which is the opposite of what I need. I'm on a Google Pixel 5 Basically, I frequently listen to podcasts or play True Crime/Serial Killer documentaries on YouTube while going to bed. So I'll have my phone on my nightstand or on my bed with said documentary playing and then usually fall asleep before it's over. Then I wake up like four or five hours later, and my phone is still awake on the end screen. I don't have any sort of "Screen Attention" mode on or anything, and it's set to lock after 2 minutes of inactivity. I have been looking all over for some setting that might be keeping it awake when the video ends and I can't find anything. It's infuriating. Because if I pause the video, it abides by my 2 minutes of inactivity rule. If I let the video end, it never sleeps. I have a YouTube Premium account, so I could just lock the screen and have the audio, but for some stuff I want the video until I crash, you know? So that's not a great solution. Anyone have any solution or know how to get it to follow my screen lock directions after video ends? I really want to prevent any sort of screen "burn-in" as the last OLED screen phone I had got it pretty bad on even just the navigation buttons on the bottom of the screen (Moto X 2013/2014.) Thank you!

So, I finally got to try and use my Rift CV1 again for the first time in ages, and with my sensors hooked up to my new PCI-E USB card, they flicker. The sensors in the setup occasionally disappear and reappear for fractions of a second, and my tracking in game gets lost for roughly the same amount of time. It's like they're losing power for a split second. And none of the USB 3 slots on this card are acting like I would expect. Everything hooked into them acts like they're running through some extra layer, and don't just ACT LIKE A DAMN USB SLOT! Anyone got any ideas? had issues with a USB3 card at some point or have any kind of insight? I've gone through power settings on all the devices and everything, I've got nothing. When I look at my Device Manager though, it is really weird because it shows FAR more USB slots than I am aware of in my system and it's hard to tell which ones belong to my USB 3 card.

So, I have been playing VR for ages, but I've always had my Oculus sensors in USB 2.0 and headset in 3.0 (couldn't run all 3 at same time.) Finally, I figured I'd just upgrade my computer and add a USB 3.0 card. I bought a "Rosewill 4-Port External USB 3.0 PCI-E card" (very well reviewed, affordable.) But now it appears it's incapable of doing anything except the VR sensors (and that I'm unsure of, but Oculus recognizes them.) My XSplit software recognizes my Razer Kiyo as a "capture card" any time it's hooked up in a slot on that card My Oculus Quest absolutely will not connect through any of the slots (but will through my front panel slot, but that one disconnects randomly, so not useful) and more issues I have tried updating drivers both via Windows and Rosewill's own, I can't find any setting on my BIOS that is out of order for it. I'm kind of at a loss and hoping that this issue isn't a result of my CPU/MoBo being so out of date. Unfortunately USB 3.0 is not natively supported, but is controlled by a ASMedia chipset, and given the age of my system, I would understand if that system was giving out. But if I'm not mistaken, that should not have any effect on the PCI-E card's function, right? System: i7-3820 ASRock X79 Extreme 6/GB 16 GB DDR3 @ 2133MHz Gigabyte GTX 1070 (just ask for any other specs I might need)

I didn't look at any other items but I checked their address and about is and contact info etc and it looked legit, but seeing that it is the same price for other stuff I think I'm gonna play it safe and stay away lol

Sorry to Necro this thread but, I finally wiped my system and installed Windows 10, my computer got a 0d fault code when I put in the USB and had to even clear CMOS to get my system to pay and install Windows. Then Windows somehow ceased to exist when I restarted my computer and I had to install it again (still don't know what happened there. I tried everything it's as if my ssd just formatted itself on restart. . . Wtf.) Anyway, I am now finally on 1903, and able to install the Xbox game pass app. Which is cool. Except now for seemingly no reason my Xbox wireless adapter will not connect to any controller at all. And I've tried every single certain if the driver software available from Microsoft's servers (the stupid ones you have to use IE for even.) So I'm back to using a cord with it like some sort of . . . commoner. But hey, Gears 5 kicks ass.

Well the title is clear, I was using Google shopping looking for the best price for a G502 lightspeed and found this page: MORRISOH.COM This is BS right? Anyone heard of this place or ordered from there before? Seems far too good to be true but all the info on their site seems legit. I kinda wanna roll the dice. I'd only be out 20 bucks you know? Until they use all my booking info and card info to rob me I suppose. Tl;dr: I need a sanity check. Am I crazy here?

You're like the fourth person that has said it was caused by something called drivecrypt for them. I unfortunately don't appear to have that on my system. I wish it was that easy.

Well... It looks like Windows has now told me that I am able to update to 1903 right in the settings menu. I'm attempting to update it right now through the update & security tab in settings. Wish me luck, going in raw.

I'm only just now getting some free time to try this. I'm gonna see what happens with 1809, but if I recall correctly it was never offered to me and failed in a similar manner. Can't clearly remember though, so might as well try again. Next step I take is just next paycheck to pick up a 2 tb external drive or something and dump everything I need onto it and then wipe it and start fresh. It's been way longer since a fresh install than I really should given how much tinkering I do on various things (like 3-4 years or so?) so honestly it's probably best anyway.

Ill try that tomorrow when I get off work, and let you know how it goes.

Well new update, I've now unhooked everything except my C drive, so as to avoid that issue with drive allocation etc, no dice. Still won't update. And now that Xbox live ultimate is here and Xbox game pass for PC is a thing it's even MORE important I get this updated. PC Xbox game pass requires version 1903 to work. Blue screen stop code: RLQS not less or equal

New update: I unhooked literally everything except my internal storage devices, keyboard, mouse, and monitor.... Still won't update. Next I'm going to unhook my additional 60TB SSD and only leave my mass storage and windows drive, and try again. Has anyone got any ideas or clues here? I could do a clean wipe i suppose. I just don't want to buy another external drive or something to backup all my extra goodies, etc.

Well I'm back with another failure. Upon windows rolling back after BSODs again I received this: "We couldn't install Windows 10 We've set your PC back to the way it was before you started installing Windows 10 0xC1900101 - 0x30017 The installation failed in the FIRST_BOOT phase with an error during BOOT operation" It then gives me a "Troubleshooting tips" link that points to here. I suspect this is due to a driver issue with something, but for all my searching, Windows can't seem to clue me in to what the heck the conflicting hardware is. As I was typing this I thought of one potential conflict. I have my Oculus Rift and its sensors plugged in right now. Could it simply be that Windows 10 isn't recognizing that hardware? Outside of basic mouse, keyboard, monitor and internal storage, that is the only thing connected right now. I think that my next try will be to unhook all of that and give it another stab. But it's 2300hrs right now and my wife is trying to sleep so I'll probably save that attempt for morning. Thank you everyone for your help, and if you have any ideas in the meantime, please feel free to throw them my way, I'll be sure to check back here before I try again.

I tried booting from the USB and upgrading from there and it told me that was not possible, it had to be done from within Windows. I'll try mounting the ISO next.

Okay! I think I have an answer here.... Sort of. I treid the Upgrade to Windows 10 and got an error "This PC can't be upgraded to Windows 10" I clicked the more information button and am being told that because of a drive reassignment issue with Windows 10 that I can't have any removable media connected to my machine. The only removable media I have is the USB containing the upgrade. But It won't install with any non-USB means either. The system says it could be an internal drive that is the problem as well. Do I need to disconnect one of my internal drives? I currently have 3 drives. My C drive on my 240GB SSD that is my windows install, my D drive which is a 2 TB Hard drive for mass storage, and then a small 60 GB SATA 2 SSD as drive H. Do I perhaps need to disconnect one or more of these drives? I'm thinking I disconnect the small H SSD drive first and see if that works?