stratuh

This is pretty cool: I dropped power to 70% and temps dropped about 10c and performance is more or less the same. In Tetris Effect, temps dropped 20c and still keeps at my monitor's refreshrate ceiling. It may be fisher price compared to over/under clocking/volting, but it's a start!

Did you mean it would drop 10C? Less power is less heat, right?

Afterburner has a slider for "power limit" from 0 to 100%. It doesn't have much granularity like voltage or clocks (Afterburner does, but not with this specific setting). I don't really want to mess with fine tuning voltages or whatever, I thought the power limit option just does it all for me? And yeah. I had a friend compare on his 4060 and it kept 100% utilization irrespective of settings. I also tried on the Deck and same deal. I think it's just the game, not something specific to my system.

There's a game I'm playing called Trek to Yomi. At max settings at 3440x1440, my 3080 gives 200fps and shows 100% utilization and gets very hot. Limiting the framerate to 120fps keeps utilization at 100% and my thermals are the same. Even dropping settings to lowest and with a 24fps cap, it's still 100%, and still just as hot. I think the game could be soaking GPU utilization, or forcing a specific power level because nothing I do changes utilization or thermals. I'm worried about thermals because I use SFFPC. I know I can't set a maximum GPU utilization, but I can use Afterburner to set a power limit, meaning I can get lower thermals while sacrificing performance. I have enough performance headroom that this isn't an issue. But is it safe? I have no experience with over/under clocking/volting. I just want to set it to 60% power limit and off I go. Is it that simple or I need to fiddle with voltages and/or clocks, or will Afterburner do it all (safely)?

I'm pretty proud my setup only has a few visible cables, and all of them are related to my speakers. It would be too big an undertaking to get speakers up on the wall and hide cables effectively. I wish, though. Mounting below the monitor is a nonstarter for two reasons: the cutout for cables gets in the way (unless I mounted the soundbar to a plank with cutout, mounted to the wall) and even then, it could be at most 18 inches long without obstructing anything else. Above the monitor I have 33 inches of clearance before it would hit my secondary monitor. A quick Google search suggests a typical soundbar is about 30 inches long.

I built my own desk and maybe I didn't plan enough. I drilled holes for grommets for wireless charging, outlets, and wire cutouts. With the way my desk is, speaker placement is an issue, specifically speakers being too close. Here's what I'm working with: My speakers here are 10 inches apart and that's about as far as I can go without covering things. I think I should maybe invest in a soundbar, but it couldn't be mounted below my monitor because of cutouts. It could, however, be mounted on the wall above my monitor. What do you think, is it a bad idea?

Many years ago I had an Avermedia PCIe x1 HDMI capture card and I used it to play my PS3 in a window on my PC. I never streamed or recorded, I only used the live viewer so I didn't need to get a TV in my office. It worked and worked really well. I've sinced move to SFFPC and stopped playing console games for a long time, however now I want to get another capture card to do the same thing but I'm limited to USB. I bought an Elgato HD60S and while it works, the experience leaves a lot to be desired. I experience a lot of crushed/clipped audio, sometimes requiring several restarts of the Elgato software before it corrects itself. However, what's more annoying is the live viewer program has a lot of streamer controls you can't remove unless in fullscreen. Here's what I mean: I don't really need or want any of this, I just want a basic live view of what's going into the capture card. Way back when, with my Avermedia card, the program for liveview had no controls except record and screenshot buttons visible on hover, and that's kinda what I want. I've tried other programs like OBS and even VLC and I get loads of dropped frames, even worse audio, and so on. I just want a nice live view lol Any ideas?

I want to preface this by saying I know nothing about under/overclocking or under/overvolting. I do know coil whine is caused by capacitors vibrating at a certain frequency when a lot of current goes through them, and this is regulated I think by the voltage to the card. My naivete connects the dots and makes me think undervolting can remove coil whine. If I look at Afterburner while in games that cause coil whine, I notice these things: - "Core clock" is over 1900mhz - "Voltage limit" is 1 (no coil whine when 0; it's either 1 or 0 at any time) - "Memory clock" is 7000mhz (it seems to always be 7000, 5000, or 460) - "GPU usage" is over 40% I don't know how these are related or if any of them contributes solely or in conjunction to produce the coil whine. I only tested a couple of games and it seems like these values appear when I have coil whine. I have my 2080 to have stuff like clocks and etc automatic, I've never really tinkered with anything beyond fan curving, so not sure what could change. Do you think undervolting can help in my situation? The coil whine is driving me up the wall. What tools can help me test individual things so I know what causes the coil whine? I don't mind sacrificing some frames to eliminate the coil whine.

It's strange: when Control came out, the first time I played it, the GPU started to develop a very loud coil whine and it got worse the more I played. I ended up stopping playing the game, and then I noticed a lot of artifacting in game (any game) as well as weird graphical issues in Windows outside of game. Incidentally, a while back when I had a 460, a similar issue happened when I played Max Payne 3 for the first time. My 460 developed a coil whine when playing and ended up dying completely shortly thereafter. My friends and I joke that Remedy games kill GPUs because it's twice now issues have arised after playing their games. I haven't really played anything since January or so because I don't want to push my GPU too much that it outright fails, knowing a lateral replacement is costly and an upgrade is impossible. I was really banking on this 3080.

Quite possible. I thought about this in December, with 3000 series cards being hard to find and figured since I got a Waterforce GPU, surely less popular than any other standard card, I'd be safe. But nope.

I ordered a Gigabyte Waterforce 3080 AIO on Dec 29th, and this morning, 122 days later, they cancelled the order without my consent. I already paid them: they have my money, I went in store. I had to drive to CC to figure out what was wrong and while I got my refund, they would not allow me to pre-order another. When I asked them what's up, they said they "don't want people to wait so [they're] cancelling orders". I said I didn't mind waiting: it's been four months at this point, surely I'm at least halfway up the list and he shrugged. He then mentioned he has a 3080 on order himself and he knows the wait sucks, so when I asked if his was cancelled, he said of course not, he wouldn't allow his store to cancel an employee order. So why assume I'm sick of waiting and cancel my order without my consent? I just don't get how a company operates this way. They've held my money ransom for four months and I have nothing to show for it. I know the circumstances sucks for everyone, including vendors, but how about some accountability? Why are they selling prebuilts with 3000 series cards when I can't just get a GPU? The price even increased while I was waiting, and they promised they'd honor the original price. Now it's like $250 more expensive, plus I'd be at the bottom of a waitlist if I decide to re-preorder. I've used CC exclusively for all my PC related stuff, even some ancillary stuff like chairs and other electronics, for maybe 8-9 years. And not so much as a courtesy call "hey do you still want this?" or anything, just straight up cancelled with no warning. I would not have minded waiting: if it took another four months, I was game: I had my place in line set in stone, and now I have nothing to show for it. Just to show I'm not a anti-CC shill, here's my purchase (right) and refund (left) receipts: And what I ended up waking up to this morning: I hoped to replace a dying 2080 I have hence the order. CC told me on day 1, expect a 4-6 week wait, which I could manage. I'm still managing but at the cost of not being able to really play anything due to artifacting and coil whine on my GPU. That's why it was important I kept my spot, when now I have to contend with scalpers or even an older GPU. I just really wish they didn't cancel on me, or at least they could have given me some options. Sorry for the rant, it's just so incredibly frustrating dealing with this company.

I had a 3600 but a friend offered to buy it which helped fund a 5600X purchase. I got it two days ago and performance is underwhelming. I haven't tried many games, not like I remember my framerates on the 3600 to compare to, but I did try Timespy and Superposition benchmarks and I'm finding my scores to be a little troubling. With Timespy, my CPU score is only 11% better, and compared to others with the same CPU and GPU, I should be getting closer to 23% better. On the 3600 I would get around 6500, and 5600X I get around 7300, when I'm seeing most people get around 8000-8500. In Superposition, my score is only about 80 points higher, reflecting in 1.5fps more on average. This is using the VR Test at maximum and 2160x2160. Some runs I actually get a worse score, it depends what other programs I have open. Something I notice is the 5600X is underclocking at random intervals. I have Core Performance Boost off, and Precision Boost Overdrive off, so it should remain at 3.7ghz constantly, right? In Windows, I even have maximum performance ticked in power options. But I notice it drops to 2.9ghz at random. When idling/doing nothing, it fluctuates between 3.6ghz and 2.9ghz, never points inbetween, just sudden drops. However, when CPU load is high, it remains constant 3.6ghz. Why is this happening? I'm not thermal throttling: when idling at 39c it still drops. Here's Aida64 open to see what I mean: I notice my motherboard (ASUS B550-i Strix) doesn't have AGESA Patch C, only Patch B which released on Nov 5th. Could this be why my performance is underwhelming compared to others? I went from x470, 3600, and 3000mhz RAM to b550, 5600X, and 3200mhz RAM. Shouldn't my performance be much better than it is?

Right, I'm just demonstrating the small increase you get versus using 3 fans. Say you have 3 fans right now: you might decrease thermals by a degree while adding noise, cables to the case, and spending money on the 4th fan. If you have four fans already and don't care about noise, by all means, I'm just letting you know what my results suggested as the sweet spot (3 fans).

You do get diminishing returns. From 2 fans to 3 gave a 7% drop in thermals, but 3 fans to 4 was 1-2% (depending on intake/exhaust config). Is an extra $20-30 for a fan worth a half degree cooler CPU and GPU?

Sorry if it's been asked before, but what purpose do you think a lower front fan serves? It's going to cool the basement of the case: are you concerned about hard-drive temps?