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That's a good question haha. Despite this being a long time ago I am actually working on a new build right now with the same problem I think it's bios control until windows starts up then AI suite overides the controls. So in order to use bios controls you will need to either disable ai suite fan control or uninstall it. Let me know how you go.

I no longer have those fans, ended up selling the build but none the less I really do appreciate your response and hope it helps others

Thanks guys for all the responses! been at work all day so I do appreciate you all taking the time to suggest some ideas for me. The company I bought the product from has taken an interest in the matter and would like to get in contact with Seasonic about it on my behalf to try and approve for a return of the product. I think I will be able to get a store credit but the reality is I really carefully chose all the parts for this upcoming build to be of top notch quality. This company doesn't seem to stock any of the be quite! power supplies. If it didn't void my warranty I would probably go for manual fan replacement but I have a couple more ideas. 1. The PSU is kind of put on it's side as I have a Lian Li PC-011. So the PSU is on it's side and blows air out the side of the case, not much I can do about it's orientation but could that be contributing to it making a different noise? 2. One of you suggested that it could be because the unit is hot and it's motor noise is occurring from spin ups/ down. I wonder once I put my system under water lowering overall component heat if that would in turn also reduce power draw = lower spinning fan. Further to the above problem, if I turn the fan on to be constant the noise it makes is just.. yuckie haha. I recorded the sound on my phone let me know what you guys think. This is the second unit both seem to have had it. Seasonic Fan Noise.mp3

Hey guys, So I have just put together a new build and I purchased a Seasonic Prime series 750 w Titanium power supply. Now the unit itself is fine, no or minimal coil whine and it does it's intended job of well.. powering my computer. What I absolutely cannot stand however is that it's fan is always spinning regardless of if I have the Eco button turned on or off and it makes this horrible grinding sound. As my system is fully water-cooled it is the only sound I can hear coming from my computer and it drives me and my ms absolutely nuts as I can hear it over game sounds. I have RMA the first unit thinking it must be a product fault but after doing some googling it appears it's due to the fluid dynamic bearings Seasonic has opted for using. I have messaged the retailer I bought the PSU from requesting a refund however I do not know what alternatives they are. I am powering a single 1080 TI and an overclocked 8700k among a ton of fan accessories a pump among some other things like RGB lighting. I think I like the idea of staying in the 750 - 850 watt range (I know some of you are going to say overkill but it's like $10 more usually between 650-750) I was wondering if anybody could suggest me a good PSU that is silent I have heard be quiet! are exceptionally good I unfortunately do not have the time right now as work is crazy to do a lot of my own research so any suggestions would be great, also prefer fully modular for cabling purposes.

Yeah I would totally get the gold if I could find it here in Aus...

are you more likely to get coil whine though if your using close to that 650 watt limit? or is that something I have conjured up in my head?

Haha yeah, honestly I didn't think it had anything to do with it. Just on one of the site calculators it had it as an option so I thought ah well i'll include it

Hey everybody, So about to do a new build specs: Cpu: 8700k OC hopefully 5 ghz Mobo: Asus strix z370e Gfx: 1080ti OF Hdd: 1 TB ssd + 250 gb m.2 Ek d5 pump with 2x 360 rads so turned up a bit 6x 120mm rgb fans About 5 usb 27 inch 1440p monitor 2x 15 cm Rgb led strips Corsair mouse + keyboard I was about to buy the seasonic prime 650 watt platinum (not titanium) but now I'm worried that 650 watt is cutting it top short with all the components OC? The wattage calculator says like 750w but I would need to jump up to the 850 watt which would be another $130 here but I'm worried about not having enough and potentially causing coil whine with full load with 650 watt. Just wondering what people's thoughts are. Cheers.

Any other ideas as to what it could be?

Okay fresh install on a new SSD still same problems happening

Wow I can't believe I overlooked that... I think you could be onto something as I have built about 5 systems on this SSD and it has software installed for all the different builds. I actually wouldn't be surprised if this fixed it. Assuming it doesn't do you guys reckon I should try install the 805 bios or go back to an old one then back to 805?

Okay on it right now setting up his SSD right now.

Appreciate the responses so far guys, I really need to get this sorted as I went back to the shop and the guy said the only other ram he could sell me was a RGB corsair kit 3400 speed for another $50 making it $300 AUD which is insane for his build

Yeah initially I thought this could be the case however I tried swapping them or running them one at a time and I tried in all the slots and I am getting the exact same results

To be honest I have my Hardrive in as it has all my benchmarking tools etc on it where as I am planning a fresh windows 10 install on my bros new SSD. Do you think this could have anything to do with it? I'll immediately chuck his SSD in to try it as I need to set it up anyway.. Aside from that after reading way to many forums i applied all your given instructions pretty much in that order and I am at the scratch head part XD.

Correct I haven't done a memory test as I have played guild wars 2, PUBG run heaven benchmark and Aida without any crashes. Basically the system runs great but the moment I raise the memory anything past from as you say 2133 it boots but locks up and freezes.

I think XMP is what most people still call it I was unsure myself now? haha. Anyway so I have tried XMP only boots if I change DRAM Voltage to 1.45 up from 1.35 but it freezes once I run a program. I have also tried XMP and manually changing the ram to 2400 Mhz and I added +2 to all the timings still freezes. I also just tried setting everything auto but target speed 2400 with 1.45 v dram. It seems I am not having much luck with this

UPDATE: After endless hours of troubleshooting I swapped the ram for Corsair Vengeance RGB 3000 and the system has no problems booting. Can confirm that ram didn't like Ryzen, my assumption would be it was an older batch. Hey guys, my apologies in advance as so many other individuals have experienced similar issues. After reading through a ton of forums and trying various fixes I can't seem to figure this one out. If anybody has any ideas of things I could try or change I would love to hear them like any funny bios setting tweaks or changes. Build: CPU: Ryzen 1600 RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200. Model: f4-3200c16D-16GTZR Motherboard: Asus Strix b350f Gaming I am building this PC for my little brother and for the life of me I cannot get this rig stable. At stock the system is fine (2100 mhz) but if I even apply it to 2400 the system will boot and I can even get Aida 64 to run along with cinebench or even a game but the moment I exit the game stop Aida or cinebench finishes its run the system locks up and freezes or the whole system will just shut off. If I apply D.O.C.P. which is at 3200 Mhz the system wont boot unless I change the DRAM Voltage from auto (1.35) to 1.45 in which case it boots but then the above happens it freezes. I have applied the latest bios 0805 x 64 and I am about to try some other versions to see if it makes a difference. I have also tried the chips in various A1Bb1 A2/B2 configurations. Along with sifting through what seems like hundreds of forum pages of others having similar issues it seems most people can get their ram to 2933 sometimes having to go back to 2666 which I would be happy with but it seems while I can boot it always freezes once it finishes a high processing task. Really looking for any help and appreciate any responses in advance , my brother was really set on this particular RGB kit apposed to say Corsairs RGB and I really want him to enjoy his new build as it's his Birthday present :). Update

Okay thats good to know, problem is I gave it to my brother and he wont be changing the fluid for about 6 months. I was going to get proper coolant. I hope it will be good until then ?

Hey guys, Simply I made a build about a month back with hardline PETG tubing. After reading that Nickel + Silver kill coil in the same loop can run into problems, I decided to just run pure distilled water + 1 drop of Mayhems Biocide Extreme. Anyway I was doing another build today and I noticed the bottle saying it's not compatible with PETG tubing? I was wondering what exactly can happen to the PETG tubing ? I have used 1 drop for about 1.5 Litres of water so it's very small amount and I haven't noticed any plasticizing, cloudiness etc pretty much looks like the day I filled it. So yeah I was simply wondering if there is a long-term chemical reaction or if anybody has done this and experienced negatives etc?

Honestly I am not sure

I hope this helps somebody in the future, not sure why limiting my FPS to my monitor creates the stutter.

okay strangest thing. I have found that by limiting my FPS to my monitor refresh rate (144) in games gives me the jitter but if I limit it to 120 FPS no screen tear. Also This only works on Fast-Sync. G-Sync + V-Sync no matter what gives the Jitter. I also found some strange behaviour between Nvidia Shadowplay (the instant replay)

I'm not trying to surpass my frame rate 120/144 is absolutely fine for me. Not much point in going over what my actual screen can output. And no point in making my GPU work harder to produce frames not necessary which is why I am capping it. It's just annoying me now that everything is smoother with G-sync/ fast sync turned off entirely

I turned on advanced setting and no dice doesn't seem to change anything. As soon as I close the software for Que my mouse loses it's profile and reverts back to what ever the default colour rainbow profile is? However my keyboard retains it's colour and presumably profile even when the computer is black screen the moment I turn it on. Thats why I'm curious that it would appear the keyboard on storage memory seems to work fine but the mouse doesn't ?