PixelPol

lol this is just so true 
also found another one  

i rewatched the maddison build for the 5th time. please hrie maddison. if she can make content this enjoyable on the spot think what will happen with time to write a script! 

Features like adding lens flare that is locked to the paid version, I have never wanted to use. Only feature I have wanted to use sometimes that is paid is noise reduction

Consider it a promotion?

Also, if you love command line, probably imagemagik. In Photoshop, you can make "Actions" (kindda macros) and apply that action to entire folders through the batch processing utility. You have also batch converters which can apply modifications (haven't tried that task you mention, tho) , and my favorite ones in that are irfanview and XnView MP or their standalone converter. This is, in case you want to do it in batch mode, for a bunch of files. If you need a server app doing it or to pipe it to an app working locally to make certain workflow, without user interaction, then the way to go is imagemagik , by command line, is super flexible, and cross platform (windows, linux, mac). Free and open source. Is used both by regular users but also integrated in a server so that whatever PHP code or whatever uses it in an automated way. You can do virtually any sort of image edit or combination with it. Is not easy to learn, but very fast to execute (one you handle it, you know the commands and parameters, is all done in a single command line, even super complex operations).
 
For just one random case,  I'd just open one image in anything like gimp, Photoshop, Affinity Photo, Paint.net, Clip Studio, and make "canvas size" (not image size!!) as bigger as what is adding the width in pixels of the other image, but setting the pivot center of the canvas size operation on one of the side margins, so that it adds all new pixels to the left, or the right.. Open that image apart, select all (ctrl +a, ususally) and ctrl + c . And in the enlarged canvas file, paste this second image, and move it to fill the white empty space. Setting snapping on, and to snap to document bounds and layers would make it way easier and faster, and the work more accurate. 

I like simplicity , I just use the following (it doesn't fail me) :
 
https://freealarmclocksoftware.com
 
I believe the volume in the app overrides Windows volume value, meaning you should probably only handle the volume for what is the alarm in the app.
I have detected that if it notices other audio is playing in the machine, it will fade out to silence until you stop that music or whatever, so to not make the alarm sound over the music, movie or whatever.

At blender.org are very good ones. Is where I'd start if I was beginning at it now. (and of course, the download of the app is there, too)
But IMO, is great for 3D (is my tool for work, for all my 3D), and while has a video editor inside, quite capable, my (2c) recommendations would be (of course, you can use Blender video editor/composer if you find that you prefer it to the below, but please try everything at start, to decide. Davinci seems to me very professional in everything)  :
 
Davinci Resolve as a video editor. And Davinci Fusion as an app that makes stuff of the kind that After Effects produces (FX and motion graphics). Resolve comes with a kind of Fusion inside, but more limited. I believe is 300$ each,  but the FREE version is quite powerful, you can start with it and be some time getting used to it, and when you have more budget, finally purchase it. Is VERY good. It works better with an at least average-low GPU, a gamer card would be enough, and a game PC, too, without meaning an enthusiast machine, nor enthusiast card, just a regular average will do. Is not like Premiere, where the GPU affects (specially some stuff in the playback), but is mostly all CPU based. Premiere gets great benefit with powerful CPUs and fast clocks. Davinci wouldn't do with a weak CPU either, but an ok machine + nice card is a great combination for it (that is... an average gamer machine). Of course, non of this for super pro level (I'd be saying a 2080) , but you specified is not your case... yet.   
 
The Davinci solution is not based on subscriptions. So, that's a huge advantage (in my book).
If you want something simple to handle, yet kind of powerful (imo Davinci is more advanced) you could get Sony Vegas. For this one there's no free version, but I used it during 7 years at my last company. Is very easy and solid. I recommend Davinci better, tho, is better for the long run. Mostly if you end up pairing it with their "Fusion", for effects and motion graphics. if you only have an intel old integrated gpu (like those office low machines, or an old laptop), then I'd say, don't get Davinci, get Sony vegas. But if y you have at least a 1050 or 1060, I'd totally go for Davinci.
 
(scroll a lot in the pages linked below (well, in your shoes, I'd read all that info and stuff...) till the bottom to find the download of the free version besides the purchase link for teh day you will decide to buy it).
 
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/
 
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/fusion
 
https://www.vegascreativesoftware.com/us/vegas-movie-studio/product-comparison/#productMenu
 
Edit: Sony Vegas is called now Vegas Movie Studio. it's been like 6 years since last time I used it, lol. They have now a Vegas Pro solution, seems an NLE editor in a more professional line. The vegas movie studio starts at 50$ in the more limited version, then a 60& and a 100$ version. I just hope you know what is really important, and what "features" or packs are very irrelevant, as so you will save money purchasing the version that you really need.  The vegas Pro starts at 200, then 300$ (this is the price of Davinci, be it resolve or fusion), and has one of 400. It also has a subscription option of 11 or 12$ per month, but I can't stand subscriptions.
 
IMO, for 300$, or even 200$ is worth it for me to go instead for Davinci Resolve, better.  But wont harm (even having BOTH! ) to get the vega Movie Studio at 50 or bit higher depending on your needs (I have not checked what they streamed currently from the cheap versions , in the features comparison lists). But you don't seem to know what features you'll need for editing. So, in that way, maybe Davinci is better for you, not only better per se, as it has it all, it has no 3 different versions, no premium or LTE. The freeware version of Davinci is limited, but not so much for the work to do when you are starting.
 
All that said, you can use more tools. I've edited things with Blender NLE, VirtualDub, made weird things with ffmpeg, several transcoders, etc.  I found that having one big main editing tool, but also several utilities around always is super helpful.
 
Blender can be great also to generate all sort of FX (particles, physics,etc)  and well, 3D media. At some time I've been asked to make 3D logo intros for Youtube channels.   A lot of people just using 2D for that, motion graphics  (what you do in Davinci Fusion, or After Effects, or even just in Adobe Animate CC (Flash) and  export. There's a free 2D vector animation tool, called Synfig ( synfig.org ) is totally free, open source and cross platform. 
 
Handling all this gives a ton of freedom (trust me). Anyway, as you are starting, I'd take one app, after testing all trials, the one seeming a better bet , so to not get saturated, and learn video editing with it. before that, download several trials and put a lot of patient to each one, as you need to guess which fits you better. Remember some of the best ones (like Blender) can be hard in its UI and complexity at start, but often are really worth the effort later, and even more, years later.
 
blender.org
synfig.org
 
And to me, for doing content, you DO need some image/graphics editor at least (you might end up even needing a vector editor, like Illustrator or Affinity Designer). I recommend Affinity Photo or Photoline for that (again, am not fan of subscriptions, would have said "Adobe suite" and be done with it...and I know that one deeply). If you got short of money at this point, as you are not really printing stuff (in Gimp is not as strong as in Photoshop or Affinity photo for that) ,... then Gimp, if can stand the UI, will do well.
 
Affinity Photo : https://www.serif.com
Photoline : https://www.pl32.com
Gimp : https://www.gimp.org
 
If you are left with no money after purchasing the camara, hardware, etc... IMO you could do for some time as you are starting with : Davinci Resolve and Fusion FREE versions. Gimp for some image manipulation for images for the video, the thumbnails, etc. Blender in case you need something 3D, or FX ,  even if using effectively Fusion for that. I'd have too XnView Mp (also as image browser... or irfanview) and  their Konvert, for batch converting frames in case you need it one day. You can go purchasing apps as you go needing higher level of stuff.
 

Thanks guys for taking the time to post all this information!

Is rare that I fully agree with 2 consecutive posts of two different people... but is  the case.   
 
@Cebrano Yes, the Affinity suite (3 apps) for a lot of people does the deal of Photoshop, Illustrator and InDesign. It is true that does not have (yet) all the features, that has corners to polish, and that being the company staff and money & resources of Serif, what, like 20 or 1000 times smaller than Adobe's, the progress is very slow (some features addition can take years since the moment of considering the possibility of adding them..like happens in open source (low, money, small teams)), as an INCREDIBLY SMALL for endeavors like those, is actually producing 3 HUGE apps in functionality for no less than 3 platforms (Windows, iOS, Mac OS) , and noope, is not "copy-pasting code" as some like to insinuate and oversimplify. 

There are things you can't do, like in Designer, auto-trace (which can be done in Inkscape quite well), or wrap-deform, which is more of a serious lack. There are some issues also when converting lines to shapes/contours, there are some issues there. The auto -trace is not that much of a show stopper, at least for real pros in design.  The other two are more of a prob, but what people do is mixed workflows with Inkscape. Why not do all in inkscape then, which is free ? Well, because a) some can't stand the UI, has happens with a bunch of open source software, and more importantly b) because for stuff as important and complex as all the print business, are severely lacking compared to Serif's Affinity Designer. Inkscape does not even have a proper CMYK system and CMYK color profiles handling. That's even today a huge portion of commercial projects made impossible.

In Photo, well, is quite a complex app, in which most can do all what they'll ever need...There are some lacks (imo, less than in designer compared to Illustrator) for a pro use, like color separation, which is kind of an old way of preparing stuff for print (some resort to use Corel Draw instead, among those not willing to use the Adobe cloud) , that is still used for very specific workflows, although not a majority of what is printed today, not even close to that. Most of the market today is PDF/X based workflows, in both CMYK or RGB. The other important lack is for digital painters, and in general, for all, their precision for input devices like tablets. Is not as good as it should be, and you need to activate certain experimental feature in preferences in orden to get a more standard level of accuracy.   Reason why most people don't use it yet for painting as many digital painters do with Photoshop. And reason why I recommend to draw and paint with the cheap Clip Studio Paint, Paint Tool SAI, the free version of Autodesk SketchBook Pro, or Art Rage, all in affordable prices, and then import the art in Affinity Photo (or PhotoLine, which is very good, and from another company, another Photoshop-like tool)  to prepare the file or fine tune it in many ways. This all does not really affects video. Although for retouch (ie, retouching stills, title screens, etc), I highly recommended to activate the "high precision for tablets" feature in "preferences", as it does not only affect painting. Publisher is yet very young. It still needs to "grow", but I'm hearing really good things from people that are much more into publishing than I am. Still, quite far from InDesign and QuarkXPress, but lets not forget the huge price difference, and how cool and functional is the app already.
 
 
@bmichaels556 I agree... I have indeed edited videos at a company, the oficial profesional demos, interviews, making effects, etc, only using virtualdub ...which, back then, it'd allow doing little more than cutting and moving parts of the movie (even a cross fade was a form of art, as it did only had ONE track and no filter for that... ), and things like that all linear workflow... and Photoshop + a batch editor/converter of ranges of frames, with occasional help of transcoding and encoding tools, among many other utilities. Video stuff can always be done, no matter what....
 
I still remember the times we handled physical scrubbing and mixer devices, those huge things, with those two disks, and all was a about  traditional magnetic tapes, no "digital" handling. But I was never a video pro, just someone that had to deal with it. Is up to how you put names to things, anyway...  

At blender.org are very good ones. Is where I'd start if I was beginning at it now. (and of course, the download of the app is there, too)
But IMO, is great for 3D (is my tool for work, for all my 3D), and while has a video editor inside, quite capable, my (2c) recommendations would be (of course, you can use Blender video editor/composer if you find that you prefer it to the below, but please try everything at start, to decide. Davinci seems to me very professional in everything)  :
 
Davinci Resolve as a video editor. And Davinci Fusion as an app that makes stuff of the kind that After Effects produces (FX and motion graphics). Resolve comes with a kind of Fusion inside, but more limited. I believe is 300$ each,  but the FREE version is quite powerful, you can start with it and be some time getting used to it, and when you have more budget, finally purchase it. Is VERY good. It works better with an at least average-low GPU, a gamer card would be enough, and a game PC, too, without meaning an enthusiast machine, nor enthusiast card, just a regular average will do. Is not like Premiere, where the GPU affects (specially some stuff in the playback), but is mostly all CPU based. Premiere gets great benefit with powerful CPUs and fast clocks. Davinci wouldn't do with a weak CPU either, but an ok machine + nice card is a great combination for it (that is... an average gamer machine). Of course, non of this for super pro level (I'd be saying a 2080) , but you specified is not your case... yet.   
 
The Davinci solution is not based on subscriptions. So, that's a huge advantage (in my book).
If you want something simple to handle, yet kind of powerful (imo Davinci is more advanced) you could get Sony Vegas. For this one there's no free version, but I used it during 7 years at my last company. Is very easy and solid. I recommend Davinci better, tho, is better for the long run. Mostly if you end up pairing it with their "Fusion", for effects and motion graphics. if you only have an intel old integrated gpu (like those office low machines, or an old laptop), then I'd say, don't get Davinci, get Sony vegas. But if y you have at least a 1050 or 1060, I'd totally go for Davinci.
 
(scroll a lot in the pages linked below (well, in your shoes, I'd read all that info and stuff...) till the bottom to find the download of the free version besides the purchase link for teh day you will decide to buy it).
 
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/
 
https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/davinciresolve/fusion
 
https://www.vegascreativesoftware.com/us/vegas-movie-studio/product-comparison/#productMenu
 
Edit: Sony Vegas is called now Vegas Movie Studio. it's been like 6 years since last time I used it, lol. They have now a Vegas Pro solution, seems an NLE editor in a more professional line. The vegas movie studio starts at 50$ in the more limited version, then a 60& and a 100$ version. I just hope you know what is really important, and what "features" or packs are very irrelevant, as so you will save money purchasing the version that you really need.  The vegas Pro starts at 200, then 300$ (this is the price of Davinci, be it resolve or fusion), and has one of 400. It also has a subscription option of 11 or 12$ per month, but I can't stand subscriptions.
 
IMO, for 300$, or even 200$ is worth it for me to go instead for Davinci Resolve, better.  But wont harm (even having BOTH! ) to get the vega Movie Studio at 50 or bit higher depending on your needs (I have not checked what they streamed currently from the cheap versions , in the features comparison lists). But you don't seem to know what features you'll need for editing. So, in that way, maybe Davinci is better for you, not only better per se, as it has it all, it has no 3 different versions, no premium or LTE. The freeware version of Davinci is limited, but not so much for the work to do when you are starting.
 
All that said, you can use more tools. I've edited things with Blender NLE, VirtualDub, made weird things with ffmpeg, several transcoders, etc.  I found that having one big main editing tool, but also several utilities around always is super helpful.
 
Blender can be great also to generate all sort of FX (particles, physics,etc)  and well, 3D media. At some time I've been asked to make 3D logo intros for Youtube channels.   A lot of people just using 2D for that, motion graphics  (what you do in Davinci Fusion, or After Effects, or even just in Adobe Animate CC (Flash) and  export. There's a free 2D vector animation tool, called Synfig ( synfig.org ) is totally free, open source and cross platform. 
 
Handling all this gives a ton of freedom (trust me). Anyway, as you are starting, I'd take one app, after testing all trials, the one seeming a better bet , so to not get saturated, and learn video editing with it. before that, download several trials and put a lot of patient to each one, as you need to guess which fits you better. Remember some of the best ones (like Blender) can be hard in its UI and complexity at start, but often are really worth the effort later, and even more, years later.
 
blender.org
synfig.org
 
And to me, for doing content, you DO need some image/graphics editor at least (you might end up even needing a vector editor, like Illustrator or Affinity Designer). I recommend Affinity Photo or Photoline for that (again, am not fan of subscriptions, would have said "Adobe suite" and be done with it...and I know that one deeply). If you got short of money at this point, as you are not really printing stuff (in Gimp is not as strong as in Photoshop or Affinity photo for that) ,... then Gimp, if can stand the UI, will do well.
 
Affinity Photo : https://www.serif.com
Photoline : https://www.pl32.com
Gimp : https://www.gimp.org
 
If you are left with no money after purchasing the camara, hardware, etc... IMO you could do for some time as you are starting with : Davinci Resolve and Fusion FREE versions. Gimp for some image manipulation for images for the video, the thumbnails, etc. Blender in case you need something 3D, or FX ,  even if using effectively Fusion for that. I'd have too XnView Mp (also as image browser... or irfanview) and  their Konvert, for batch converting frames in case you need it one day. You can go purchasing apps as you go needing higher level of stuff.
 

It really depends what kind of videos you're trying to make. 
 
But like others said, a decent phone camera on a chair and sitting outside or having a few lamps around is MORE than enough for a decent-looking video.
 
The microphone obviously depends. If it's you talking at a computer desk behind a camera, in that situation, a mic will really improve audio quality. It just depends what's viable. Otherwise your phone camera may be sufficient enough.
 
As for editing, I've used Sony Vegas since the beginning. Well, almost. I think it's great, but not free. DaVinci Resolve maybe? I know many use it and again, that should work out just fine. And again, it depends how simple (or not) the editing is. Hell, many of the videos I've made could have been done with Windows Movie Maker if I tried hard enough. Not that I'd recommend doing that. Ever. But I COULD have.
 
Point is, don't think you need all this awesome epic equipment and software to start things. You don't!

Considering software i really like the Affinity Products (Photo, Designer, Publisher) which you can get for 50€ each.
I dont really miss any,Photoshop Features. But that might be because of my workflow...
 
The way Designer and Photo are working with Publisher is quite comfortable from my perspective.
 
@PixelPol I dont have anything to add XD Well written.
 

Handbrake would have been my suggestions, but looks like you're using that already  
The only other encoders I am aware of are Adobe Media Encoder (as you mentioned) and FFMPEG.
In my opinion, Handbrake does exactly what it should do.
 
I have no experience with MakeMKV, so can't really comment on that.

Can someone please link me to Madison's original submission video? It popped-up on my YT recommends, but then I forgot to watch it 
 
Edit: found it!
 
.

I think it's important to remember that this isn't YouTube's fault- this is the last thing they'd want to do- it is the fault of the outdated law. It's long overdue an update. Also, a quick hint- I found that after my video was flagged as Made for Kids by YouTube sticking a little disclaimer in the description makes it go away: my disclaimer went something like this:
"NOTICE: IN COMPLIANCE WITH YOUTUBE'S NEW POLICY, THIS VIDEO IS NOT MADE FOR KIDS."

The problem is it doesn't work financially,  the only reason google can keep youtube running (for now) is they harvest so much data from it.  Any service you want where the content can be delivered with or without ad revenue is going to have to be user pays, so either the cost of an account or a cost to view.
 
 

human interactions is a big part of fitting into a work enviroment
worth ethic is a big part as well
getting along with your fellow workers and supervisors and head honchos too is very important
the ability to learn new things and how quickly you grasp and can work on your own
 
no one wants to teach the same thing to a person 3 times on everything, or a few things
no one wants to work with a downer or someone who isnt good to work with
 
the enviroment of the workplace is a big deal
 
 

I'll agree that a lot of jobs ramp their requirements up to 11 and think that's a good enough filter. In my experience, the real qualifications for a good employee are seen a bit on the interview, and a lot once they're already hired. That's why I think the things to look for out of an employee are subtle, and recommendations from people who have a good eye for talented /  hard working people are so powerful.
 
Hell, I'd hire you off the back of correctly nesting parentheses ?

Actually... Is not the usual thing, but sometimes one gets contracted if the sum of skills on a number of matters is fine even if not covering everything required (BTW, in the LTT graphic design offer, what is requested is very spot-on, and no nonsense there, but in MANY companies' job offers it is requested way too many things, also from other profiles (like coding in python to a graphic designer, or asking a coder to be able to model in 3D, that's stupidity, but happens), so, one needs not to be scared of that), or even just if specially excel in one matter, even if not covering a bunch of others. I believe I've learnt entire profiles at companies. And  there's the internship possibility. I was once at a company where we were like 5 contracted for experience and stuff, but after some months, the company needed massive work force for coding and admin, and took like 20 internships, and a number of those ended working fully employed at the company or went to other places, finding better paid contracts. Most were students of last years, tho IT careers. But none had experience, and most of them could not really code. At small businesses (3 to 20 workers) is way more likely to happen. Not everything is Google and Silicon Valley in this world...My first company in 95 did pick this grunt 'cause I could draw, and the second because I could handle Photoshop. All I mean is, you never know. She said she handles Blender, and probably she also uses Photoshop or something similar. With that you might get into some jobs already.

She's a graphic designer, that's what she went to school for, so yes, I imagine she would.
Not entirely true, while LMG might not, I know several companies that have hired people with no skills and paid for their education because they saw potential.

Option A) What has been said is the best way specially if you can send the file to a print place where they can print in this medium formats. Using a vector software (inkscape, corel draw, affinity designer, xara, illustrator, etc) , as always that you export for CNC cutting, or make a template of any kind, for 3D print too, or cloth cutting or etc, vectors are better in these cases (accuracy and scaling flexibility, plus perfect curves). You create a canvas of the needed full size (ie, 90cm tall per whatever width), and you can already set the canvas properties, as (though not key in a vector file, but is good for other reasons) the resolution, that is, the DPI at which your print service prints (ie, typically 300 dpi). You might want to set the exact "bleed" asked in the default specs (usually downloadable at some point in the print service's site) of your print service, as well as establishing the specified margins, safe zone, etc. The easiest way with such services is just to download the template they actually provide, for illustrator, corel draw, etc, and use that template to make your file, as there you will have pre-made the bleed and cut line, margins, safe zone, etc.   Then, just making/drawing with the node tool your actual track design. Then adjust the scale of your drawn race track with the proportional scaling tool till you match that canvas of about 80 cm tall, if you hadn't it filling all space already.  Scaling up in vectors is not an issue, as is not about pixels, you have infinite scaling down or up. Once is all of your liking, can save the vector file and provide it in the format that the print service requires (PDF/X, EPS, etc). And that's it.
 
Option B) Now... the "dirty way"... hehe.  As u can do it in any raster software, too (photoshop, gimp, Affinity Photo, clip studio paint. Probably even in the free Krita). And as you mentioned "paint", the simplest tool ever, and raster... might be that u feel lost with vector apps. Also because it does seem to me that all you are doing is printing at home, with a cheapo 50 dollars A4 home printer.
 
I'd just be sure to see at what DPI is your printer set at (if you are using a home printer and not a POD digital printing service) . 
For simplicity, I'd just set the image at 90 cm tall . Hopefully, you can set your printer to print border-less, without margins. But if not possible, you will need to cut away the exceeding empty paper, the printer margins. The  canvas, this new image, needs to be at the same dpi (resolution) of your printer, or the one that you are setting in your print dialog. So that the file wont stall your computer, I strongly recommend 300 dpi, also the usual res in case u'd send it in the future to a printing service.
 
Of course, it would have been important that the canvas created as new, would be big enough to fit all your track's drawing. For example, if is enough, with 9  A4 sheets (~ letter size) forming a 3x3 grid, as A4 and letter size are usually printable in any home printer.   Forming this grid, 3 (A4s) for the width, 3 for height. In Photoshop or whatever similar, an easy way for this is just create the new canvas as an A4 (or "letter" size). You could now (is optional)  hit ctrl + a or however you do there a "select all". And then "save selection", call it for example "A4 selection". So you keep a selection exactly the A4 size. Then (most image editing apps allow this) set the "canvas size" to a new size  (or image resize if there's no such option in your app, as now does not matter yet, is a white canvas) , and change it to be " 300%" in Width, and 300% in height.
 
Now make your 80 cm tall drawing of the track covering well the whole canvas, or just paste it there if you have it created already. If after pasting it is much smaller to cover the real state there of 80cm tall in this 300dpi (I repeat, matching your printer dpi)   canvas that you  have now, if is smaller, I recommend making the track again from scratch, as scaling up always results in blurry results, in raster (pixels). Once you have your track drawing finished (maybe using the (Photoshop, or Photo, or etc) vector tools is the very best option for this case), what you have is a giant canvas with a track over it, filling well all the 3x3 (A4s) sheet. Now, to print and then stitch together the printed pages, I'd first set snapping ON, and also set the setting to snap to document bounds, selections, and layers (very important for ease and speed for the following). You now load the selection we made (which happens to be exactly an A4 in size). Move the selection towards the canvas left border and bottom border. As snapping is on, the selection will snap to both. Now make a new layer. In Photoshop (sorry, is the one I know everything from memory, lol) , or equivalent in other tool, hit shift F5 and pick any color to fill this selection, (is just fill it with pixels) whatever you want. Now you have a filled layer the size of an A4. Deselect (ctrl + d in Photoshop). Now, you will duplicate this layer in the fastest and easiest way possible in your software. In Photoshop, is keeping pressed ctrl, the press and keep also pressed ALT, without releasing those, drag the layer with the left mouse button, just drag it, will move a new copy of the layer, duplicating it so. As you move it, let it snap to the side of the existing layer, and do it again with the resulting one, and then the same with the row of the grid you will be forming above, and so till you have your 3x3 grid of A4 "pages" done, and perfectly (magnetic) snapping each rectangle with the next (ALL "tutorial" till here this is done in 15 seconds. Seriously).
 
Remember you had already your track designed in another layer.  Now, in Photoshop, and I think this has been recently added to Affinity Photo as well, you can ctrl and LMB (left mouse button) click on the layer thumbnail of one of the A4s rectangles you've made, in the layers list window, so to select fast the layer's full content, the A4 rectangle (or select that layer in the layers window, and hit in the menu/select/ or layer contextual menu : "load layer transparency" ). Be sure now to save your final version of the file, right now.  Now "crop to selection" . Hide all layers now except the one containing a part of the racing track, so only that is visible now. As I told you, I hope your home printer allows a setting called "border-less" printing, so to not produce margin, gaps between pages. As you will print this cropped thing as one A4 of the grid. Then ctrl+z or ctrl alt z until you get back to the global view before cropping to selection. Ctrl click over the layer's thumbnail of another A4 rectangle to have that selection for that grid rectangle on, and hit again "crop to selection", hide all except the racing track part, print. And repeat. Till you have all your 9 pieces printed. then stitch them to form the plan / blueprint.
 
Another way is using just guides, snapping and the crop tool. But whenever I explain guides to whoever, people get lost, lol.
 
All these methods, pretty similar across the main raster apps : Photoshop, Affinity Photo, Photo Line, Paint Shop Pro... Gimp is a different animal but have a lot of Photoshop's functionality, just in quite a different way.
 
I explained it in a humongously long way, as is longer to explain than to do. It might take me like 20 second to make and print all except actually drawing the track, as depends on if you are making a complex track of many curves or just a circular or simple shape track.
 
Might sound cumbersome, but the drag and copy layer, with snap on (and particularly, with smart grid on in photoshop or Affinity Photo's snap system) it is darn fast, seconds. And when you have more "cell" grids, and a very complex overall drawing, this technique becomes very handy. It is NOT the way I print anything of large dimensions, as I always send it to a POD printer, a service online, print shop etc, and print it in the final size format as many are capable to print in huge formats. Have done event posters of 6 meters wide, and theater scenery of 8+ x 2 meters...no stitching required
 
Also, for more advanced solutions, whenever making grid based things, can be advantageous to create macros, Actions, scripts, whatever supported by the 2D app.  
 
And as mentioned, anything to be cut on wood, any CNC stuff, or 3D print, or etc, better if done by a vector based program, as they recommended above. I just provided the dirty ways as a non standard way for those allergic to vectors   
 
 

Nope, we need ppl to get their butts off the couch and do proper parenting and stuff......

-- Removed by me -- Stuff is changing at speed of light, and was certain yesterday, is not so much today.