SadaleNet

Oh well. I don't know. Perhaps you're right that it's driver issue. Now I'm running out of ideas. Next time when you're asking for help, do let us know what you've tried. It helps us a lot for determining what's wrong.

To partially rule out the possibility of ISO getting corrupted, perhaps you could try this: Use the same ISO image to install Windows on a virtual machine. If it works, then it probably isn't the ISO image. You may also want to try using that Windows 10 installation USB drive to install Windows 10 in a virtual machine. That'd partially rule out the possibility of USB drive issue.

Had this computer ever worked correctly in the past? Or is it a new computer?

Is your gaming rig a new one? Also, I wonder what's the hardware specs of your gaming rig, like which CPU, motherboard, RAM, SSD/HDD, etc. are you using?

How can you tell that it's "due to a corrupted install file"?

Where did you get the .iso file? You can get the official one here. And this one shouldn't be borked. If it borked, chances are that it's something else borked. https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10ISO

Duh? You'd have to go thru each of the titles and use the "title" style. You might have a chance to fix it if the textstyle you've picked for the titles isn't shared by non-title text, tho.

Not sure if it'd work on Windows. On linux, you could use youtube-dl to download the clip and ffmpeg to extract the sound. Despite its name, youtube-dl actually works for many video sites, probably include twitch. I don't quite understand why it has to be piracy tho. If you aren't redistributing the extracted sound elsewhere, it's just file format conversion. And it doesn't harm the interest of the copyright holder of the audio clip at all as what you're doing is pretty much the same as watching their vid directly. Of course, it really depends on the country or state you're in and what you're going to do with the extracted sound.

... Why did you do that? Try powering it off and on again and see if it works, and I guess that's pretty much all you can do.

V = IR. So R = V/I. When the supply voltage is considerably higher than the forward voltage of the LED, the calculation can be approximated by taking V as the supply voltage subtracted by the LED forward voltage. Therefore: (3.3-2)/0.02 = 65ohm, or higher. (5-2)/0.02 = 150ohm, or higher. Beware: even if it's rated at 3.3V, or 5V, the voltage can be a bit higher or lower than that because of the tolerance. Same goes for the resistor, there's a tolerance. Let's assume that the tolerance is 5% for the power supply: (3.3*1.05-2)/0.02 = 73ohm. (5*1.05-2)/0.02 = 162ohm. Now let's handle the resistance tolerance. 73/0.95 would be 76.8ohm. 162/0.95 would be 170.5ohm. So picking a resistor with higher than these values would be safe. Just ensure that current is less than 20mA and the LED is good. When in doubt, get a multimeter and measure it.

Don't worry too much about scaling up. Chances are that you won't need to worry about that because of low traffic. (Ouch! That's what happened to me ) By the time you need to worry about scaling up, you'd probably have the money for you to scale. Maybe it can be donation or payment from your users.

I've also got the same model of soldering iron as yours. I love this one. It's cheap, and it works. However, it seems that it isn't a temperature-controlled soldering iron. It's just a power-adjustable one. Anyway it's still far better than the non-adjustable ones. My main reason of picking this one isn't the price, tho. My home is crowded and I don't have any space to store a proper soldering station. That's my main reason of picking this one. Welcome to Hong Kong I guess.