Wiebenor

Actually, anyone who questions this, (just saying) you should watch linus' content from the Noctua booth that just went live recently(as of jun 1st 2023). He mentioned Noctua doing collabs and was wiggling his Noctua colored LTT screwdriver he was holding/using during his video on Noctua products that have been developed,and really heavily hinting at it without ACTUALLY coming out and SAYING that the screwdriver was one of the projects... If that's not (at the very least implied) proof that the Noctua x LTT screwdriver is going to be a thing, unless things change, then IDK what is... speaking of, if that happens, then you'll be able to get replacement bits that fit right from the LTT store probably, as it's literally looking like just a color change... Speaking of the LTT screwdriver, I've seen ads while looking for information confirming my thoughts on the Noctua/LTT screwdriver, for Etsy, claiming "LTT screwdriver" for 25$, and although I'm pretty sure it's just the various plastic 3d printed looking carrying case things shown, and not the screwdriver itself, it would be funny if it was, considering the price of the "new" LTT screwdriver from the LTT store... Just thought I'd throw that out there, as with just looking at the Google sales banner on the search pane, one (without looking at the pics, or being clueless) would likely read the titles and go look at it assuming that it was for the screwdriver as well as everything else...

I'll do that on the build pictured above, and I don't need to do anything to my other build, it's just that I didn't seem to have a correct plug or something... If I find the plug does look different, and can't be just plugged in, I'll do another reply, but it does look like I did an "idiot" and went "too" attention to detail

As much as I'd like to agree with you, I couldn't find the cables I'm looking for that came with my first computer, so I'll use my 2nd Intel build since I know that one basically had the same problem despite being, I believe, from visual inspection, only an 8 pin, of which, only 4 pins is currently connected, although the plug was removed and connected into it's 8 pin configuration for the pictures I took... Also note, the motherboard for my Intel build is an ASUS "PRIME B560-PLUS" and the PSU is the Corsair "CX 650M" semi modular PSU(note that that seems to be different than what I remember my other computer's cable to look like, as I couldn't get it to fit if I remember correctly, but then again, as seen here, I'm obsessed with matching each square hole up with a square hole, and vice versa)(will try again in daylight tomorrow to find my other cables for my 1st rig to see if they still don't work)

The PSU of my 1st rig is a Fractal Design model "ION+ 660p" (platinum rated 660 watts) My motherboard, again from first rig, is a "TUF X-570 Gaming PLUS [wi-fi]" from ASUS... I'm currently looking for the bag the PSU/cables originally came in which SHOULD be in one of my boxes I boxed up in my room cleanup, but I'm not finding it as of yet... When I do find it, hopefully in a few minutes, I'll try and send you a picture of the old(new OEM) cables look like compared to my new one(s)... I forget if I actually had a single 4 pin connector, or just the 4+4 connector, but Newegg didn't throw any compatibility flags when I built it around 16 months ago... Not sure what other pics might be helpful...

How can I be doing something wrong, when I put the 4+4 connector together, and the keyed connections don't match my motherboard's connectors??? If the connectors won't fit, in the proper position, with the clip facing the right way, then it's not the right connector, even if it was supposed to work. am I wrong? I'm just confused about, how an 8pin CPU connector can be NOT an 8 pin connector, even if it's supposedly compatible with your system...(note that I believe my system requires an 8 pin, and a 4 pin connection, if I remember correctly)

I'll probably say this later, but to make it clear at the start, I haven't built a computer since 2004 or so, until 2020 or so when I built my first one in around 15 years... With that in mind, please read my question and give your responses with my ignorance of the more recent PSU cable standards in mind... I bought a power supply off of Newegg, as well as all my other parts for a PC I built for myself, and I have even built a computer since then, using a new power supply I had previously bought at Best Buy, and I ran into a problem with both systems, albeit, less pronounced on the newer build as the motherboard doesn't warn me about power issues, like the other one used to before buying a cable mod replacement cable for it with the correct pinout. Now to make sure you understand my meaning, on the computer I purchased on Newegg, that I thought everything was compatible out of the box, with everything else, it came with a split 4+4 cable, that connects together to form an 8 pin cable, but it didn't work in my system in any other form except as a 4 pin cable in the compatible side of the 8pin connector, and while that's perfectly fine, I was tired of the x570 board's message on boot about maybe wanting to upgrade my power circuit output by using the proper 8pin CPU circuit cable, so I bought a CableMod custom cable specifically for an 8pin power connector, that was made for my power supply. Now, I've been out of the computer building loop for 15 years or so, so I don't honestly know how most newer boards can have an 8pin cable connector, yet most power supplies, like that in my first build, or even in a store like Best Buy, can have a connector that won't fully work on a motherboard, like happened in my 2nd build, without using only 4 pins of the 8 pins that are recommended... Can someone please help me understand what the deal with these different standards are, and not only that, but how to do things differently in the future, so I get the proper motherboard/PSU combos in the future, if ever needed???(obviously I am looking for information on not just 8 pin connectors, but the many varied new standards from 4+4 all the way to 8+4, or whatever the newest ones are) I just want to make sure my information is up to date and understandable, but I don't see any YouTubers saying anything about the differences, or explaining anything about the standards and pitfalls you might fall into looking for a PSU with the correct pinout...

Almost forgot to mention that I'm planning on keeping/adding support for DVDs/CDs, as well as making it support a 3.5inch HDD or two, and 2.5 inch, as well as possibly having an M.2 for boot purposes, plus it will be likely an AMD based server/NAS system eventually, with the possibility of playing games on the APU, although I'm waiting for the AM5 mainboard/DDR5 launch and reviews, before I make any decisions on what brand and generation of system I'm going to use... Also, I've read that it WILL get hot, but admittedly the guy that said that had a full blown graphics card and riser cable setup, which is partially why I'm going APU, iGPU, or whatever term you prefer to use for the graphics built into the motherboard, as those terms seem to change depending on who you talk to...

Yes, and it's been gutted, as well as already having had the power button rewired to directly go to soldered on wires... Would have liked to use the original or a replacement LED light, but I deemed the wiring too complicated and cut the LED off so as to affix a new one in it's place, also wired direct... On a side note, yet also related, I'll still be using the iMac front panel mainboard for proper button spacing between the plastic button and the momentary switch that is behind it, and probably won't even try to reuse the headphone jacks, unless I find a reliable and not confusing way to do so, as both the headphone, and mic jacks have what appears to be, 5 maybe, soldered pins... EACH!!! P.S. before you ask, I have done a lot of research on doing the conversion, and basically have a plan worked out, for the general specifics, I just couldn't find anything specifically mentioning the front panel connectors, so scrapped most of the idea... I know for instance, that an SFX power supply should work in the bottom compartment, and an m-itx(or was it m-atx?) Board will go up top... I even have a candidate for a 1080p monitor that might fit my 13in screen space as well, with ways to keep the system fairly closed up and to hopefully make the bars on the top and underside of the widescreen monitor black, to not show the inside of the case, from the front

I have the 2.0 and it's nice, but I think I might get the new USB-C charging cable, the "Spark" I think it's called, but to be honest, I think they should include a 2.0 to C adapter with those, if they don't, because the reason I originally chose 2.0 is because my volunteer AV tech position at My church, only has 2.0 ports(easily accessible at least) on the computer I use, and I'm not about to hunt around the computer case just to find whether there's a C port on the rear, because it's placed in a cubby-hole under the soundboard desk, and yeah, I'd have to plug it and forget it, which I will NOT do with such an expensive cable...

First of all, I hope this is in the right forum subsection, and I thank anyone that can help me with my question, in advance... I have an old powerPC iMac that I would like to use for converting to a Windows PC, but I have found out that I am more than likely going to have to scrap part of my original idea to use the built-in LEDs for the power button although I might be able to solder on a couple of wires directly to the power button itself and use that without any of the other motherboard parts, and being that the iMac originally had bi-color LEDs, I am wondering if anyone has done a mod where they add bicolor LEDs to a Windows set up so as to save wiring space or whatever reason they might have for doing so??? Is it feasible, and or advisable to do such a mod or is it only easily possible, using another way??? I definitely want to do it, but I'm not sure if I want to do it because I have heard another place online, someone mention it only to be told that "they wouldn't do it, it's risky"... If I had an old board to try I would do it but unfortunately all I have is OEM equipment to spare, and it's Dell, so, yeah, and I'm not trying it on my main 3900X system, because, well, it's a 3900X system... If anyone who knows anything about this subject, is wondering I may have "Common Cathode" LEDs coming, on the premise that each individual light could be turned on individually, from the plus side, which, if my limited knowledge of bi-color LEDs is correct, would usually be how that stuff works... Am I right, and if the idea would work, was I right to think about buying common cathode LEDs, or should I have looked at common anode LEDs???

I'm not sure whether it's a new VPN setup for you, but I do believe I have heard, that some VPN companies will limit internet speeds, sometimes drastically, if they detect torrenting activities... If you haven't used a VPN before, or have recently switched, that could explain it, insofar as not having the problem before, but however, if you've been using it for a while, it could be that you're not using a "no logs" VPN, in which case it could be that they have been contacted by government agencies regarding copyright infringement and other illegal activities, or that they have a policy that will throttle your speed if you torrent too much... Now, I want it made clear that I'm not saying that you ARE doing illegal activities with torrents, but I know certain ISPs will throttle your speed, warn you, or even suspend your account if you torrent so much as a UBUNTU or Linux Mint installation media, and VPNs could do the same thing easily(note that I don't know much of anything about whole network VPN solutions, as I use per device solutions, and never used a whole network VPN)

Sorry it took me awhile, but here's the pictures of my case... The outside definitely needs work, but the inside looks good still

I thought that was a pretty obvious feature myself; I mean, I bought them specifically for the idea of inserting the tip and leaving it plugged in... However, I'm not going to say that some people might not understand that, nor judge anyone that doesn't understand the set it and forget it nature of these cables

Ok, Good... I have had times where I could view the file in the phone, but not the PC, after a similar event would happen. A small piece of advice for the future, though, If it's so important that you're possibly willing to pay for data recovery then you should press "copy" and not "move" or "cut"...

My advice first off, as I've had similar problems with android phones in the past, is to disconnect the device, and reconnect it... If that doesn't work, then if you're rooted, you should be able to run a recovery app, otherwise if you're not rooted, then a data recovery professional is your best bet

I found out that the cable doesn't support all devices, only those without the PowerDelivery 2.0 mandatory specification, and if your device, such as a pixel 4a doesn't work, it's either because you need the SPARK cable, or are using a 5watt version... Haven't heard of anyone else with a pixel 4a trying the 3watt volta 2.0 cable, so I can't verify whether the problem is actually PowerDelivery 2.0, or the whole google locking out 5watt cables due to shoddy workmanship concerns, with a few brands not necessarily with Volta in particular... Of course, that doesn't mean that I think they're running things correctly, because they claim "1 cable for **ALL** your devices", not "2 cables for all your devices"

They released another one, according to my notification, just a few minutes ago... It's in the middle of the new gaming headset roundup...

I haven't decided yet if I'm going to do it, but it IS already gutted specifically for that purpose... I'm not sure, but I may not even have to go 4x3... I might be able to find a 1080p portable monitor small enough to fit, and basically those have the same setup, just prebuilt, the only bit I'm not sure on, is how I'd manage the letterbox gaps on the top and bottom... Probably a piece of black hard plastic, I reckon would work... That way it's 16X9 which I love, but it still has a clean look to the edges... Also, it's not a white fan, although the size you stated is correct... My fan, is black, just for reference, although I would probably replace it with a grey Noctua REDUX fan, and add 4 more of those fans hanging down in a single layer, by the top handle holes... I would have to figure it out how to do it, but it shouldn't be too hard... Maybe I'll find a way to put a piece of plastic under the lid form fitting it to the curved rear, with 4 fan holes carved into them for hooking up fans, and use fan splitters where needed, as needed... Also, I would likely have an RGB strip in there as well, if I could get something that supports it... As to the person who said I couldn't get a PSU to fit, I have a few ideas that might fit, and to that same person, I don't want an apple OS, or I would have left those crappy components in there... I want windows, and at least as far as newer stuff goes, you can get cooler systems using AMD, because of how hot Intel is purported to get... I'll show you all a photo of what it looks like gutted, once I get around to taking one, so you all can see what a huge undertaking, even just cleaning up the case will be as there's a few drops of stain on it that ran a bit at some point... Oh, and as for IO, I'm just going to use panel jacks for most everything I would want to hook up...

I have an idea for a custom built 'sleeper PC" where I use a "Bubble iMac", without the built-in screen of course, to house a full PC, including a DVD Drive, if I can find a laptop drive that's the same size, and compatible with the iMac cd-drive bezel, or close enough, to be juryrigged at least, with a little glue or something... My question is, if I want to go through with the idea, do I want to go with a CPU or an APU??? Also, how new do I want to go with the processor??? What I know for sure about the proposed build is that it would likely be a M-atx or M-itx board with either 8 or 16 Gb of ddr4 RAM, and that the newer you go on ryzen, the less power you consume, therefore the less heat you generate, in general, but I also know that a GPU would add a lot of heat to the system, and so I would probably want a older graphics card if I went with a dedicated GPU, probably a 10series Nvidia, unless I wanted to really use an AMD card... Any ideas of a good cheap motherboard and CPU combination, that would work, and possibly a GPU if you deem it necessary??? It doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something with built-in wi-fi, and an m.2 slot,(or 2) perhaps something from the ASUS "TUF" lineup, and an appropriate CPU... Motherboard doesn't necessarily have to be available right now, just needs to be in production, and selling a good amount of product... Picture of a case like mine is below (picture from wikipedia) .

As long as you have the uefi set to legacy you can "boot anything, from anything" or very nearly so, but if you don't then it has to be uefi based, or would a better term be, compliant??? Most new windows installers should be uefi compatible, but who knows if yours is...

I do like the old style look, but I hope he cleaned up some of the drive cages that are likely inside, cuz dam, back then, they didn't even hear about this thing called airflow...

Also, I plan to reuse the power button as well as the LED, although the rest of the stuff on that particular circuit board will probably not get used

One thing I saved though, after tearing one apart over 15 years ago, though, are the speakers, cuz they are usually da bomb... I had so much Bass coming out of them it wasn't funny... New speakers look like they haven't rotted either... I also saved the microphone, although I'm not sure how good that will work without upgrades, and stuff... I plan on doing something for putting a motherboard tray in it, possibly buying a plastic test bench setup like LTT showed in a video a few years ago, as long as it supports M-itx and/or M-atx...

If you mean the crt, then no, I need all the space I can get for the parts, and since I'm thinking about putting a M-atx or M-itx board in there, with full ryzen processor (not sure if I'll get an APU or just standard CPU with external graphics card), I won't have room for it... And it's already gutted, and the wires to the screen destroyed in the process, anyways...

And that's why I don't use ANY drive that is also an mp3 player for booting... You never know if it'll work... Of course, you did have USB boot enabled in BIOS right??? I don't mean to sound like I know it all, I just have had that happen before...