Jump to content

Argeddion

Member
  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bavaria
  1. You could try to run it in a1 b1 and see if dual channel works. This wont help diagnosing anything, but it might fix your problem for the moment
  2. First go in TWRP and wipe cache and dalvik cache. Then try again. This fixed so many things for me already. You do not need to root with superSU (or Magisk) if you plan on installing a new ROM. That would wipe it anyway. Try to follow the instructions of the official Nethunter thread on XDA: https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6p/development/rom-kali-nethunter-huawei-nexus-6p-t4080807 You should flash the newest android version from google via fastboot beforehand though: https://developers.google.com/android/images
  3. Swap the sticks around and see if both sticks work in a2. This will eliminate the RAM as problem source. For mobo vs CPU I dont know a solution other than replace the CPU/mobo
  4. A complete disasemble and rebuild of the Pc did fix the issue. Probably the video card wasnt seated right or a ram stick became loose. I also took out the CMOS battery and did resett the CMOS multiple times. Just writing this if anyone has similiar problems and finds this forum post
  5. Hi, Since I installed a dedicated GPU I can not boot into uefi. Windows 10 works just fine. To be more accurate, I suspect, that I am in uefi but I get no video output. The keyboard and mouse do light up, fans spin. I realized this when I wanted to reset my CPU OC to standard because it was sometimes unstable. I did reset the CMOS by shorting the pins which was succesfull since the OC is gone, but still no video in the uefi. I also can not update the uefi since I do not see anything. But there are newer versions. I tried all 4 outputs of my video card. They all work with windows but not in the UEFI. Since I had no Displayport cable I used an adaptor. I aslo tried the HDMI and DVI inputs on the monitor. While still using the Vega 11 on my APU everything was fine. Specs: CPU - Ryzen 5 2400g GPU - Gigabyte RTX 2060 OC 6GB (OC is in the name. I did not overclock it) Motherboard - ASRock B450 Pro4 (BIOS Version P1.50) Storage - SanDisk Ultra 3D SSD 500GB RAM - G.Skill AEGIS F4-3000C16D-16GISB Memory 16GB DDR4 (2x8GB) Powersupply - CoolerMaster MasterWatt 550W(80+Bronze)Semi-Mod Monitor - Samsung SyncMaster P2270
  6. Update: I remembered that after installing the newest Bios I ran Heaven Benchmark without problems. Now, 10 hours later, it crashes the system the same way as described above
  7. The cable to the monitor is an amazon basic 2m HDMI cable. The 8pin Power cable is the one that came with the PSU. I dont have any Displayport to HDMI cable at hand, so I cant try the other outputs of the GPU.
  8. Hello, Please help me with my Pc. I dont know how to do further troubleshooting or fix the problem. The Problem: I bought myself an Asrock Radeon 5600 XT Phantom gaming D2 (https://www.asrock.com/Graphics-Card/AMD/Radeon RX 5600 XT Phantom Gaming D2 6G OC/index.de.asp) . My CPU is a Ryzen 2400G and until now I only used the integrated graphics. With the 5600 XT I get a green screen flickering when playing lighter titles or on lower settings. The screen flickering gets worse and within 1-2 minutes the whole Pc Screen freezes and the PC does not respond anymore. If I ramp up the setting (in AC Syndicate) to Ultra the PC crashes within 10 seconds of the game loading into the menu. Steps I tried to troubleshoot: Sett the integrated graphics controller to auto in the UEFI/BIOS. Checked that the HDMI cable was plugged into Reseated the graphics card, pulled all plugs and replugged. Updated the Bios of the GPU. Reinstalled the Radeon software. (I this how you reinstall the drivers?) I tried with the auto detection tool and the manual selection of the drivers. Update: Used DDU in safe mode. Did not help. Rest of the PC: Windows 10 Coolermaster Masterwatt 550W Bronze (Should be enough, system should pull about 300W only) Motherboard Asrock B450 Pro4 (https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/B450 Pro4/index.de.asp#Overview) An old Samsung Syncmaster Full HD 60 Hz display. No Free Sync. G.Skill Aegeis 2*8GB RAM at 3000MHz SanDisk 500GB SSD . I am stuck because I do not have any other PC hardware avaible at the moment. So I cannot swap any of the components and check for a hardware faillure. And we have catastrophy alert where I live. So I want to check everything else before I RMA the card and try a new one. The replayement probably wont arrive for a few weeks. Does someone here have any idea what could cause the green screen of death? Maybe someone ran into similar issues when pairing a 5600 XT with a2400G. Could this be a hardware problem? I even suspect the PCIE slot of the Motherboard not working propperly, but i cannot simply switch the board for another.
  9. Well I dont know if this is the right place, but I dont know where to ask this. I am doing my first build and I dont know how to connect my case fans. They have molex and a three pin connector. Do I connect both or just one? Which one should I prefer?
  10. I know it is a little bit later than expected. Reseating did not help. Reinstalled all drivers as well. Still the same problem. I dowloaded CS:GO because it is free now. It is basically unplayable. Every 2 seconds it switches from bright to dimm and back. Well guess I have to go back to my i3 then. Thanks anyway
  11. Power brick connector is fine. I suspected that the power is the problem, because it always happens, when the game ends in LoL. At this moment, the launcher gets loaded and but GPU still renders the game. I saw the same behavior when playing and surfing at the same time. Loading a new web page leads to short dimming. Even when google play music loads a new song if flickers. Thats why I suspected the power. I dont know of any setting that could cause this. The flicker does not start when stressing only one component. i tested this with furmark and prime95.
  12. I hoped that this was not the only solution. There are no power bricks from Medion with more than 90W output for this modell. And even if I find a third party power brick was available, that would be around 50-80€ for a system that is not even worth that much anymore. Thanks anyway. Guess I have to live with the flickering
  13. The laptop of a friend broke and so he was kind enough to give me his i7-3630QM (TDP 45W). Originally an i3-3120M (TDP 35W) was installed. The Laptop is a Medion Akoya P6638. So after the upgrade when the system is under load and the CPU and GPU (GT 635M) are stressed the screen changes to the lowest brightness setting for halve a second an then turns bright again. This happens sometimes 3-4 times in a row leading to a slow "flickering". I suspect, that not enough power is provided. Thermals are ok though. Since i am a total noob when it comes to tinkering with software, i would like to ask for recommendations on how to tell my CPU to not be so greedy and suck less power. I really dont want to install that old i3 again. I appriciate any suggestions
×