burh4n

Exactly the same situation for me @burh4n, my main computer is now in the Node 804 despite being purchased for a NAS build.

It's finally here - the next installment of the 1U Desk PC build - we know, it's been a while, watch to find out why.
 
 
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Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.
 
Thanks to Trotec for sponsoring this video! Contact them for a free laser demo and more information about their laser engravers at http://geni.us/trotec
Thanks to MetalMart for the WaterJet time! Check them out at www.metalmart.ca

And remember... Blame Jake 

So I know I went a bit quiet, but things got busy and it took me some time to get back to this. The model needed some cleaning up and in the interest of time, I just removed the PSU, GPU, and some (simulation) problematic parts. I ran the simulation for both 120mm as intake and exhaust. The lid I modeled as solid (no perforations) to simplify things and show the fully enclosed view. 
 
For the 120mm I already had the Noctua NF-F12-PWM fan curve (requested from Noctua), for the others I just entered a few points from the spec sheet (meaning they're not likely accurate). No thermal analysis here, only flow (sorry didn't have the time). 
 
From the analysis, I think either configuration is viable. Although if using the 120mm fan for intake, I'd personally add some perforations on the right side of the cabinet for air to escape, since that side builds up a lot of pressure (might be okay with lid perforations). 
 
Here are a couple screenshots and you can snag some animations here. All media is showing the relative pressures using the color scale, and streamlines are showing fluid velocity. Again, don't take this as 100% accurate, but hopefully it helps you with your design process. 

120mm fan as exhaust


120mm fan as intake

Thanks for responding.

It's for everyone reading the thread looking for advice, not just for you.

Flashing coloured lights, stylization etc. are the marketing gimmicks, not actual engineered performance characteristics; just pointing out that you've got it kind of backwards.

Fans can favour style over function, or function over style, or they can balance the two. Personally I recommend paying attention to the performance specifications or you could end up with a system that sounds terrible. If that's something you don't care about then for you I guess it's a non issue.

@WayneStark89 if you unplug it, does anything stop working? Also, if there's not model number on the outside, pop off the cover (top looks like it might come off easily) and check the board inside for a model number.
 
Definitely seems like a digital audio adapter of some kind. With no direct outputs, I'd guess that it's a broadcast antenna for a wireless headset like @sub68mentioned (likely proprietary if you don't see any Bluetooth devices after it gets power, USB ports might always be on for the XBOX, try unplugging it and plugging it back in, then check for devices). 

Bang for buck: Ender 3 
Small but mighty: Prusa mini
Best performance/dollar: Prusa i3 MK3S 

With the exception of the mini I have used and owned these printers. The Ender will give you a lot to learn and improve on. The prusas are good right out of the box. If you like tinkering and want to learn the fundamentals of 3D printing the ender is a great place to start. If you want to get up and running fast and not think about how level your bed is or if your print will be OK unattended, get the prusa. 

Hmm...
 

 
 
Anyway yeah probably audio transmitter of some sort. Is there a model number on the bottom?

Personally I like the monitor choice.
If you can't wait, I agree with @Chris Pratt
I absolutely agree with @Oswin if you can wait, you should do so.
 
@Dolstein finally, is it not feasible for you to purchase the discrete parts and build the system yourself? You'll likely save money in doing so and be able to put that money back into the equipment.
 

Aside from what @Chris Pratthas already said I'd like to add that a 1000W PSU is kinda overkill. If this was me I'd go with a 750-800W unit. Something like the Corsair RM750 should do fine.

10900, especially non-K is a horrible value. You'd be much better off with a 3900X. Better performance and cheaper as well. Plus, you don't need that expensive Z490 motherboard. You can pair the 3900X with a good B550, even. Even if you stick with Intel, you don't pair a non-K chip with a Z motherboard. The whole point is overclocking.

welcome to the forums!
 
have you considered waiting for ampere, zen 3 and big navi? considering your budget, buying now isnt really a good idea.

I have a feeling that the "fins" we are seeing is just plastic decoration, but under them, you have the actual fins. At least part of these fins, like around the fans. I guess we will see soon enough. 

So I saw this shot and I'm not convinced that it is the new airflow design. Primarily due to the orientation of the fins in the card mid-section. All 3000 series images (I've seen) show the fins at an angle to the length of the card, where these are perpendicular to the card. Additionally the model used in that simulation appears to be rather modest in size, maybe 1.5-2 PCIe slots in height, but at least the 3090 is rumored to be 3 slots in height; overall not much of an indicator but something of note. The wire frame images in the videos look very much like the current reference design as the label is in the middle section (where the fins would be). There was a lot of old and new clips in that video, so it could be from earlier model simulations. They teased a bit, but I'd question how much of the thermal design they'd reveal before the official launch (personally). All that being said, the simulation does appear to match up with design present on the leaked images of the cards. 

If anyone wants the AM4 holder files, contact me via DM
 
EDIT 4/21/2021 : We are working on getting these ready to release to the public, keep an eye out in Hobby Electronics and our page on Prusaprinters for a release in the next couple weeks. 

https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/release-information/status-windows-10-2004

That top fan tho

The size of hard drives describes the size of the platters, for instance a 3.5 inch hard drive is actually 4 inches wide. I'd suspect this convention started with floppy drives, where they were also named for the size of the discs they read instead of their physical size.

I'll start by saying this is a very lofty goal. When I worked as a contractor in the States, there was a saying always shared with customers: "In any project, there's a triangle of options that will direct your project. It's only possible to pick two of the corners, Best, Fast, or Cheap." Best in this case would be ticking all the boxes you listed. Cheap is tricky here, because you're aiming for efficiency/cost reduction, but it doesn't sound like it's directly related to your build but more towards utilizing solar power and keeping the cost of the solar collection system down. My perspective is that you may spend a decent amount on the PC to get the Best and it probably won't be a Fast project.

That part out of the way, let's look at the solar aspect first. Here you'll need a solid battery to run your rig, no question. This means a laptop could be a good choice since it has one built in. If going desktop, that might complicate things a bit, as you'll likely need to limit and track your play time to ensure you don't use too much of the stored energy, or you end up not having power to run other appliances/electronics in the house. Either way, you're looking at a limited play time, make sure you understand and accept what your upper limit will be. As long as you have a reasonable battery system, there shouldn't be any issues with damage to your gaming rig.

Desktop:
For power, you gotta go with high power efficiency, probably 80 plus Gold or Platinum. Cooling options can get tricky quick. Air cooling will (generally) be less maintenance and longer lifespan, but will be impacted by your environment more directly. If the ambient air (in the house) is 20-25 C or below year round, you'll probably be okay. If it fluctuates greatly, it will complicate things. If the ambient air gets hotter, are you going to cool the house? If so, anytime the PC runs, you'll be using more electricity to cool the house on top of running the PC. Additionally air cooling doesn't cool well with high temperature ambient air, this might benefit from water cooling, but water cooling does still increase the temperature of the air in the house. There might be some aspects of home layout and airflow you could optimize, but could be a whole other rabbit hole to get lost in. It will probably be good to do some serious research into MOBO power delivery and CPU/Power ratio.

Your question about OS is tricky, and I'm definitely not well versed in the realm of power optimization with that respect, but it's likely that a less resource hungry/dependent OS will be less power hungry. You could probably run a test on this now, setup a dual boot system and monitor the power draw (at the outlet) to see which uses more power during use. The big caveat here is that Windows is the best option for running installing or running games with little fuss, Linux may have limitations when it comes to drivers or game availability; do your research and figure out what you're comfortable with. 

Laptop:
Simplifies a lot of aspects, but will limit your performance and does come with a portability premium. Certainly gaming laptops will draw power, but with built in battery you'll have some independence from your home power and can control when you charge it.

Other questions to consider:
- Will you be online gaming or offline only? Online gaming will probably increase your router's power draw as there will be more traffic to handle.
- I know you're aiming for using VR, but have you considered checking out a game streaming service? This could be a use case for it since you could get a very low spec device and use GeForce Now, Stadia, or whatever to play on a server elsewhere (significant reduction of power cost to you). It could be reasonable to look for anywhere you can go to game locally (I know it's not the same) on someone else's hardware.
- How much time are you ready to invest in this project? A tiny house seems like a big project alone, but adding a gaming PC might further complicate the house project.

Curse you @burh4n! Curse you!
 
You had to mention the mismatched memory sticks! They kept glaring at me every time I looked at them! So I did a quick and dirty paint job on them so that my ram would stop irritating me:
 

 
I really didn't take that much time on this, since I have something else planned for my memory. I hit both sticks with some rattle can white, taped it off so that the "low" parts would be black and then I used rattle can black to finish it off:
 

 
OK, definitely not a show piece paint job, but that's not what I was after here since I have something else planned. Realistically, I should have removed the heat shields and taken more time. But for now, it's good enough that it just doesn't annoy me as much. Here it is installed:
 

 
Once again I say Curse you @Buraan 😉

Agreed, @Coulous OLED won't be the best option if you're going to leave your TV on all the time with semi-static images.

Sounds like you're going to need a lot of storage, so price/GB might be the first aspect to evaluate across services.
 
Sounds like you won't be editing in the cloud then (guessing video editing will be on the local machine), so you could really use any option that best suits your needs. The big warning I'd say here is to make sure to coordinate who's working on what and when, or work on a local copy to push to the cloud during off times. 
 
Certainly a reasonable way to do it, but an additional offline daily/weekly backup could be beneficial as well. This means if the cloud service goes down (or internet), a file is accidentally corrupted, or some other web-based road block; you'll still have a local copy of your content (and may only lose a day or two of work, not all of it at once). Cloud storage is not considered a backup (think of worst case scenarios like a ransomware encryption that syncs to the cloud backup), so investing in another means of managed physical storage is highly recommended.
 

I totally read this post title as Help With Pants Please.

The Sabrent Rocket 4.0 is based on the Phison E16, there's about a dozen drives that use that controller with the same flash (96L BiCS4 TLC from Toshiba). The SX8200 Pro uses the SM2262EN, updated version of the SM2262, also used on many drives, usually coming with 64L TLC from Intel/Micron. Lastly, Samsung's 970 EVO Plus has a proprietary controller with 96L TLC.
 
The flash differences aren't really important although there is some impact at 2TB (for the SX8200 Pro) because it has to use double-density dies, that is 512Gb/four-plane, which does have more overhead. So in terms of flash performance, the 1TB 970 EVO Plus is fastest followed by the Rocket 4.0 and then the SX8200 Pro. The "up to" sequential speeds you see are only over PCIe 4.0 and specifically SLC mode, I'm talking base flash performance. However these are all roughly in the same ballpark.
 
The E16 is a dual-CPU/quad-core design with a balanced performance profile, the SM2262EN is dual-core optimized for low queue depth, the Phoenix (970 EVO Plus) is penta-core with specialized cores (2xread, 2xwrite, 1xhost). So in terms of power it's 970 EVO Plus > Rocket > SX8200 Pro. However this is ignoring low queue depth performance (which is often most important for consumer usage), efficiency, etc.
 
Lastly they have three different SLC cache designs. The 970 EVO Plus is hybrid (static + dynamic), the SX8200 Pro large and dynamic, the Rocket 4.0 full-drive dynamic. Static is more consistent while dynamic is more flexible, specifically for bursty sequential workloads. There are downsides to dynamic caching, specifically when outside the SLC, when the drive is fuller, etc.
 
The combination of these factors means the SX8200 Pro will be fastest for every day usage, the Rocket 4.0 is best for bursty sequentials (which requires other fast drives in the system, usually), and the 970 EVO Plus is best-balanced. If capacity is a priority and the price is as close as you say, the SX8200 Pro will absolutely get the job done in most cases; video rendering is often subsystem-limited (CPU/RAM).

So I worked in the AV industry for about 11 years and my favorite displays are the LG OLEDs. I too have an old plasma display that still rocks, but if I were to upgrade today, I'd aim for a C8 or C9 from LG. The picture on them is amazing. They have 55" and 65" models, but I'm not sure what the EUR prices/availability. 
 
I don't have any quantitative info on viewing angles, but I'd guess they're out there. Generally I think most modern displays would have a decent viewing angle, but worth checking for your specific use case. I'd say that control of ambient light would be a bigger concern before viewing angle in most cases.
 
Reliability is tough with new tech. OLEDs as well as LEDs should have a decent lifespan if treated/used properly. I'm not too familiar with the longevity of the these display techs, but most displays lifespan is measured in hours watched since the back light is usually the first thing to break down.
 
Personally, I'm not a fan of QLED, but I never had the chance to do a side-by-side with an equivalent LED. Guessing that there would be a performance difference, but it'd likely come down to a question of price vs personal preference.

For no money and without installing anything more:

Task scheduler + PowerShell + robocopy
 
Set task scheduler to run when you're not using your PC, and build a .ps1 script to run robocopy to copy your files to a backup directory. You can even setup robocopy to use multi-threading.