AManWithPlan

I disabled HWInfo64 completely for an overnight test, still made seeking sounds. No clue what is accessing it, it's just long-term storage.

I can certainly test this tonight, but I am watching the live feed on these 2sec queries and there is zero activity.

I do yes, but that shouldn't "read" or "write" to the physical drive. I have HWInfo64 running.

Hey forum, I have an HGST (Hitachi) 10TB nas drive, brand new no faults. Late at night I can hear seeking clicks while my computer is on (I keep it on 24/7 like a server). I have no idea why the drive has any activity at all considering it's for long term storage and no application should be looking at it. Is this anti-virus on Windows 10 or some kind of file caching sub-system Microsoft does to speed up searches (which don't work anyway)? What have you turned off to eliminate any hard drive use while you aren't accessing it. Thank you, Aman

As I said, instability/WHEA errors start for me right around -20 on all the non-fastest cores. So I keep them on -15. I am also undervolting by 0.085v, so that is a factor, but I tested -20 all-cores at Auto voltage.

I don't think the 16-core 5950x is capable of the same PBO undervolts as the 12-core 5900x. Even Ali (Optimum Tech) couldn't do better than -12 all core on a 5950x (though he didn't play with the fastest cores to tweak like I did, which is why I can do -15).

I'm seeing something a bit different on my chip. Leaving core voltage on auto makes the board run it at 1.45-1.5v. This gives me spikes into the 80's temperature-wise. I get about the same PBO performance on single-core (maybe a spike to 5.1ghz here or there, but ultimately within 1% Cinebench R20 scores), at the cost of my higher spikes in temperature from simple things like downloading a file, running an intensive website (like Coinbase), or simply copying some files around. The spike is quickly cooled by my pump speeding up and it comes back down into the high 60C's, but still, I don't want it to spike to above 90 (already had this happen while testing, even though I manually set it to throttle at 90C, it spiked to 97C with Vcore on auto making me quickly kill the benchmark).

I get doing -30 in PBO, but that will mean you're not going to achieve anywhere close to 5ghz single-core performance; which is what I am shooting for. Also, the 16 core chip that I have won't let you do -30 on every core, you'll get WHEA errors and crashes. I'm currently -15 all cores, -7 to -8 on the fastest cores. I'll never be doing super-intensive all core workloads, so I don't need high voltage overall, but I do want aggressive single core performance (preferably under 60C, which I am currently above at around 66C-68C). The more I offset my voltage (down), the less single-core performance I get while testing.

How do you think these benchmarkers are doing it? Just insanely low voltage, like 1.31V or something? PBO wouldn't even clear 4.1ghz at that level. Hell, multi-core dropped down to 587mhz, haha. If the heat is okay (meaning chip won't die as long as its under 90C), I'm fine, I just want to make sure I am doing all I can. I am used to far lower temps with Intel on a higher wattage chip.

My PC: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/t9dXQD Dear LTT, I am newly back on the AMD platform, been off since the Bulldozer; was on team Intel with a 5960x. Just put together a new build linked above. I am now on a completely custom water loop with over 1,000 watts of cooling power. The EKWB waterblock on the CPU is using Conductonaut (which I correctly applied) as the thermal "paste". Is this processor known for running hot? Because I'm around 60C at idle (was on 50C back on my Intel processor which had a 140W design compared to my new 105W one; and I was using a Corsair AIO cooler at the time so had no where near this custom loop I have now). I am also getting spikes to 75C when doing simple things like downloading a large file. The pump ramps up per my bios profile as soon as the processor runs hotter, but these spikes are odd, I've never seen them on a processor (usually temperature rises up slowly by 2 degrees or so). My coolant temperature at equilibrium is around 36C, so that is the above-ambient threshold to keep in mind. I've had the processor run as hot as 87C when benchmarking, something I couldn't even get higher than 65C on my old Intel with a weaker cooling solution. I am currently undervolting it to 1.378 with an aggressive PBO2 profile that takes me to around 4,875mhz on the best cores (all achieved with undervolting, not overvolting). Let me know your experience so I can compare, cause reviewers are sitting pretty around 70C or so under load with much weaker cooling solutions (like air only). Aman

It didn't go into enough detail, it was a single page showing some selections, but not any submenus.

Man, got nothing. Looks like not too many of these boards out there.

Dear LTT Forums, I have finally decided to upgrade my system and found that the MSI MEG x570 Godlike fits my needs best (I have already ordered it). I will be running an AMD Ryzen 9 5950X which I found for $1,000 luckily. This will be my first custom cooling loop, for which I have bought large radiators with the goal of fanless operation at idle (my PC is on 24/7). Most of a PC's fan noise is the sound of air going through tight radiator grids. My question(s): 1. Will this motherboard allow me to adjust fan curves (in Bios, no separate fan controller like Corsair) based on the liquid temperature for all fan connectors (CPU_FAN1, PUMP_FAN1, SYS_FAN1~7)? I know there is a thermal sensor connector, but I do not see the options in the board's online manual. 2. Will this motherboard allow me to run at 0 RPM fan curves for idle temperatures below 40C (or whatever I set it to)? Most boards get squirrely if the CPU_FAN is not spinning. Thanks much, Aman

I have not yet, I'd probably go with something a bit beefier if the HDMI connection permits. Like a 3200x1800 upscaled to 4k @~100hz, or maybe something slightly below that. 1080P just doesn't have the oomph it did 10 years ago. I've been spoiled by Ultrawide, and now my spoils continue into 4k.

While you're doing that, side note. Don't games look balls-to-the-wall omegasauce on these beasts?

What is the reason your are pushing 12bit encoded color information if the television can only display 10bits of range (1 billion colors)? Is it because Nvidia's panel only has 12bit as an option? Also, I am sure you mean YCbCr as that is a digital signal HDMI cables can carry, YUV is analog format and an HDMI cannot carry it. I am currently stuck on 4:2:2 on my HDMI connection (YCbCr) if I want the full 60hz at 4k. Lowering to 24hz for a movie allows me to select 4:4:4. I just want to confirm this is truly a max until HDMI 2.1 outputs are available on prosumer graphics cards.

Dear Readers, I am looking for an FPS counter which I can put on (slave) monitor 2 in order to give me the readings for monitor 1. Is this available in FPSMon? I certainly don't see it being obvious in the settings. Thank you, Aman

Dear Readers, I recently installed an LG OLED C9 television and hooked it up via HDMI to my 2080TI. The television is rated at being able to display 4k at 4:4:4 chroma subsampling (uncompressed) @ 60hz. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get this to work and believe it is a limitation of HDMI 2.0. I have only been able to select 4:2:2 @ 60hz (interestingly the output color format is locked to "limited" as well, with no option for "full"). Anyone else with a C9 been able to get different results? The HDR content looks great, but I do notice compression noise/grain in some films which I have that are over 60GB of information and believe it to be a fault of chroma subsampling. All my drivers (on TV and computer) are up to date. Thanks, Aman

If they had no branding at all, I can confidently identify this as a Razer product.

I'm not sure how this is helpful to me.

Dear LTT Forum, I have a fairly non-unique issue. My C drive is full because all games want to save to C instead of to their respective installation drive. I'm upgrading to an M.2 1TB drive which will be my new C drive. What I want to do is to begin the update from my normal C drive, but write everything to the new M.2 drive so at the end of the Windows 10 1903 May 2019 update I have one completely unaltered original C drive and one freshly updated new C drive (on the M.2) with all of my applications and programs still intact. I don't trust reinstallation software and was wondering if there was a way to both upgrade and preserve original. I can always do back up, etc, but why spend the time if I already have 2 drives to work with, right? Thoughts? -Aman

A couple of things. I am getting this monitor, but I'm on a custom-looped 2080 TI so I run on heavy overclocks. I can drive this monitor on many of the games I play which is what's important for me. I also plan on upgrading my graphics cards as new ones come out, so the monitor will only continue to pay dividends for me. Finally, once you exceed 1440P, anti-aliasing no longer has a good cost per perceived benefit. You are taxing your GFX card, getting lower frame rates, and can't see aliasing anyway on higher DPI displays. This monitor has a DPI of 109, you will not be able to see aliasing even with AA turned off.

Are you overclocking your 2080? Because I am running mine at 2 GHz clock and 7GHz memory at 60 degrees centigrade. I get 90-100 frames in Witcher 3 on all max with a 3440x1440 monitor. I am confident I can run around 80 frames at the newer 3840x1600 resolution, as it would only be 24% more pixels to draw. It would run better than 4k currently does on a 2080 TI.

"You will be missed." Randall Graves

That sucks. I don't have any experience with WD drives but only hear bad things. Hopefully they don't white label their technology under HGST. I have some 12 year old Hitachi drives still kicking. Either way, looks like there's a market pinch and I'll have to just wait for a deal. I'm not spending $0.4 per gig, that's asinine.