SpookyCitrus

Standard superglue and careful application should be all you need. Don't use a lot and only get it on the heat spreader and plastic RGB diffuser. You can get a gel style superglue as well so it's less runny and will stay in place.

Standard superglue and careful application should be all you need. Don't use a lot and only get it on the heat spreader and plastic RGB diffuser. You can get a gel style superglue as well so it's less runny and will stay in place.

It's frowned upon to double post so quickly
Sounds like a dying card. It *might* just need a vBIOS flash, but at this point, you really need to look at a replacement

What are the specs of the rest of the system? What are you trying to use it for? 

There is a small chance you lost the PSU lottery *twice*, but it's not that likely. I'd suspect something wonky going on with the mobo. 
 

though 5600 28 might be worth a gamble if you're the type of person that wouldn't mind taking time to tune the ram

Ahh, I see. Yeah, they're not very common and usually a lot more expensive.
Nvm guess they aren't that much more anymore. The last time I looked into sub 30CL DDR5 it was $40 more or higher.

You can use internet recovery, a program such as Mint to make an install USB for MacOS(you can also do this with an installer download), similar to making one for Linux or Windows. As long as you have a compatible version of the OS that is supported by the Mac in question. You'll need to either install the MacOS version that originally came on the Mac or one that is still supported by it. Apple cuts support for certain Macs so that they won't work with newer versions of MacOS. You can figure out the latest supported version your Mac will work with by looking up the serial number on everymac.com

Nvme SSDs are designed to work without a heat spreader, so either one is going to work. Typically you will need to remove the preinstalled one in order to use the motherboards built in. Usually the built in MB ones are better. Personally, I order Nvmes without the heat spreader or if the heat spreader version is cheaper I remove it and use the motherboard's if it has one. 
 
Usually you order the with or without versions based on if your motherboard has one or not. In this instance where your board has one already, you'd want to get an Nvme that doesn't already have a heat spreader. Regardless, even if it didn't come with one or the motherboard didn't have one you'd still be fine. 

Nvme SSDs are designed to work without a heat spreader, so either one is going to work. Typically you will need to remove the preinstalled one in order to use the motherboards built in. Usually the built in MB ones are better. Personally, I order Nvmes without the heat spreader or if the heat spreader version is cheaper I remove it and use the motherboard's if it has one. 
 
Usually you order the with or without versions based on if your motherboard has one or not. In this instance where your board has one already, you'd want to get an Nvme that doesn't already have a heat spreader. Regardless, even if it didn't come with one or the motherboard didn't have one you'd still be fine. 

This is most likely going to be a problem with the new board/CPU, possibly the APU causing some sort of issue with the dGPU being able to output through the board when it's in use, or something else entirely. Those mining cards are not meant to be used like this and require tweaking software or specific hardware to work like that. Most likely you will only be able to use it in that way with an Intel based system. 
 
You can try disabling the iGPU in device manager/bios and that should in theory let it only use the dGPU for output but those mining cards are iffy. If you disable it you might not be able to get display at all anymore which would let you know that it's not going to work the way you want in that configuration.
 
If I were in this predicament, personally, there are so many inexpensive standard dedicated GPUs out there that are much better than that mining card, I wouldn't even mess with it. I'd cut my loses and buy a used RX 580(super inexpensive) or go for a used RTX 20 or 30 series. Hell, the new RX cards aren't super expensive either. 

Not trying to derail your build thread, BUT...
 
If you want to upgrade to Windows 11 (which sounds like the sole goal here) without spending any money, it's fairly easy to do. You can modify the installation ISO with a script or RUFUS to bypass those hardware checks. (I usually use the official ISO then modify it with this tool). I have done it on dozens of "unsupported" systems with no ill effect.

Use WizTree or Windirstat to view all files, remove temporary or unnecessary files it finds that take up a decent amount of space. 
 
If it were my computer I'd just buy a new drive, 1TB sata SSDs, and Gen 3 Nvmes are pretty inexpensive these days. Like @PDifolco said, it's pretty pointless to keep constantly cleaning a 250GB.

A format and reinstall is a last resort, this could still just be a simple driver/software fix that doesn't require a format and reinstall. We've already ruled out a cryptominer virus. I'd advise against going this route until we do some more troubleshooting. 

The cheapest board I'd be willing to tolerate with that chip would be the Z790-A Pro.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/xNKKHx/msi-pro-z790-a-wifi-ddr4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-pro-z790-a-wifi-ddr4

Budget?
Something like the Yeti Nano or Seiren Mini come with a stand to sit in front of you. 
 
Those microphones are meant for conferencing, and are notoriously poor for sound quality. 

Get a bigger drive anyway, you will waste your life trying to clean a 250GB drive ...
 
A Gen3 1TB NVMe is $60, less than a console game

None of the 7800X3D systems I have worked on or put together use the same board that he has, his system was purchased and researched by himself, all I did was assemble it. I tend to find a good board and stick with it, all of the 7800X3D systems I have done use the same board and its a different model from what he used. His is also a very difficult board to work with, it arrived with a dead CMOS battery(a lot of this model shipped with dead or dying batteries, Gigabyte already released a statement) and essentially the entire board needs to be taken apart to change it, but that's a separate issue that was already resolved. If you're curious he has a Gigabyte X670E Aorus Master.

When your computer is having the performance issues before the restart install and run MSI Kombustor. If your GPU doesn't run at 90% usage or above while running Kombustor you most likely have the same problem as one of my clients. 
 
I've been working with a client for the last few months who also built a 7950X3D and RTX 4090 system. And is/was suffering from the same performance issues(except his graduated to not returning to normal after restarts). From what I can tell with his and a few others I've seen posting about the same things in a number of forums, it's an issue with the integrated graphics driver for the 7950X3D causing issues with the 4090, originally to fix it, I just uninstalled the iGPU drivers and AMD Adrenalin and made sure the iGPU was disabled in his bios and Device Manager, a DDU and fresh install of his 4090 drivers and he was good to go for a couple months, where it started happening again. We found that Windows(after an update) reinstalled the iGPU drivers, causing his performance to have issues again. I tried the same process again and no dice. Couldn't get his GPU to go above 65% usage no matter how hard I stressed it. So, I made sure iGPU was still disabled in bios, it wasn't, because had reset it trying to fix it himself. And then I reinstalled Windows 11 fresh. Making sure the iGPU is disabled in bios should insure Windows doesn't detect it all or try to install drivers or anything for it. That seems to have done the trick. Hopefully for good.
 
I would try, uninstalling the iGPU drivers in Device Manager, also if you have it installed get rid of AMD Adrenalin, once both are uninstalled boot into bios and disable the iGPU all together. Then restart. Once back in Windows run a DDU on both AMD, and Nvidia GPU options to insure all drivers are gone. Reinstall the Nvidia drivers via GeForce Experience. Hopefully it works for you. If it doesn't you may have to do a fresh install of Windows after disabling the iGPU in bios. Doing a bios update if you haven't already regardless may also help.
 
This has happened two times(some people in forums are reporting it always just comes back) to my client since building his 7950X3D/4090 system in September, I've built several 7800X3D systems paired with 4090s before and after that and have had no issues. My client has decided after the last time I fixed it with the reinstall that if it happens again he's switching to the 7800X3D or doing a full on platform swap to Intel. 

OP is referring to using DDU for their GPU DRIVERS, not storage drives. 
 
Install and run a scan with Malwarebytes, Windows Defender doesn't detect some cryptominer viruses, and can miss quite a few things.

That's just OneDrive. It at times(which is most of the time) has dog water download speeds. Nothing you can really do. I have 1GB fiber at home and 10GB at work and in either case anytime I've tried either personally or for a client redownloading files from OneDrive has been a let it run overnight or for a couple days depending on the amount of information. 300GB is quite a bit, I'd let it go at least overnight. It will download in the background. Regardless of your internet speed, it's really all about the OneDrive servers themselves. If download speeds are a concern for your file storage, use Dropbox or a Nas. Or if it's only a seldom occurrence when you need to format and reinstall, use a physical external HDD or SSD. Either would be much faster, both making a backup and also transferring the files from the backup. Much better than doing it over a cloud based server. 

Regarding moving the data? Honestly, I'd just not move the data. Both drives are m.2 and should be basically as fast as you need.
If you're out of space, the best option would be to use steam to uninstall a couple big games (your saves *should* be safe in the steam cloud) and install them on the new drive

You'll need to plug in the power cables for the GPU. 
Can we get a full pic and the full specs of the build?

Windows 10 is still supported, and I believe will be for a few more years. Just stick with that, or bite the bullet and use Windows 11. Linux isn't the best for your use case, let alone for a gaming focused computer in general. There are versions of Windows 11 out there that have been cut down to a more basic OS. Just like the custom versions of 10 that were released. Disabling all of the garbage. And the whole it's ugly thing, so what? I'd rather have function over form personally. 

What are the full system specs? Exact makes and models please.

7800X3D is the fastest CPU on the planet for gaming currently.  You WANT more cores?  Why?
 
Youtube a 7800X3D vs 7900X video.