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About GuardEzio

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Discord
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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Occupation
    IT Technician/Server Engineer/Imagineer


  • CPU
    Intel i7-9700K
  • Motherboard
    ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM
    32GB HyperX Predator DDR4 3200MHz
  • GPU
    Nvidia GTX 1080
  • Case
    Zalman H1
  • Storage
    Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500GB
    Samsung SSD 850 EVO 500GB
    WD Blue 2TB Desktop HDD - 5400 RPM SATA
    WD Green 1TB HDD - 5400 RPM SATA
  • PSU
    Seasonic Platinum 1000W
  • Display(s)
    Dual BenQ G2255 25" LED
  • Cooling
    Corsair H115i PRO
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 Edition
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Onboard with Creative... something... speackers.
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro
  • Laptop
    Macbook Air
  1. HA-AH! One of the simplest answers, yet the one every tech I've ever known hopes is not the case, especialy in off the shelf systems. Sending it for scrap? If so I'd say savlage what you can first, just in-case you ever come across anouther old rig you want to try to get running. All the best
  2. At this point I think that's all you can do, I'm completly stumped o.o... Do let us know what they come back with — I'm admittedly quite curious what on earth could be causing such an issue.
  3. I must admit then, I'm stumpped. If you can't overclock it at all all I can think of is it's a driver bug or maybe something wrong with the card? Have you tried putting any of this to AMD, see if they have any idea? What about overclocking with software other than MSI Afterburner (though why that would cause the issue is beyond me)?
  4. Hi, If the socket is fine and you've test booted from bare bones and with one RAM module at a time (I'm guessing you've also tried a CMOS reset?) my guess would be the motherboards faulty. If the board is new, it should still be under warrenty - I'd recomend you send it back for a refund or a replacement.
  5. Hi, To me, that sounds like there's a definit fault somewhere on your PSU. By all rights, unless there is something wrong with the wall socket you're testing the PC on (I'm guessing you've tested the PC on differant wall sockets already), the system should boot with no issue off a standard outlet. At this stage, I'd say buy a new PSU; esspecially when you bear in mind that if your PSU is faulty and blows, it'll take you're whole system with it. It's not worth the risk in my opinion. Maybe look into replacing the inverter as well (or getting it checked), be it with anouther UPS device or a simple surge protector.
  6. Hi, The only way I can see that being a problem, at least in terms of booting, is the hard paste causing some weird pressures on the socket. Seems unlikely, but I've seen wierder things. Ether way, some fresh thermal paste wouldn't be a bad thing, if only to ensure better thermal condution - especaily if you've removed the cooler already. Out of curiosity, when you say the "integrated graphics die", what do you mean? The die should be covered by the IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) unless you've delidded the CPU? As it stands, if you don't mind investing a little to get the PC up and running again I'd recomend you buy some basic thermal paste (isopropyl alcohol to clean the old gunk off the CPU/Cooler as well - if you don't already have some) and look for a bog standard gpu on ebay.
  7. Hi, I'm guessing the GPU is running stock at the moment? Was this a fresh build you're working on or one you've upgraded? More importently, have you recently changed your GPU from an Nvidia to AMD and, if so, are you running off a clean install of Windows or simply uninstall the Nvidia drivers and install the AMD from a pre-existing install [of Windows]?
  8. Hi, The video isn't working for me so sorry if this is answered in it. Is this a pre-built system or have you built it youself? Have you checked the CPU/CPU Socket for any bent pins? Have you tried stripping the system down to bear bones (removed all the RAM, etc.) and tried booting the system with one component added at a time (i.e. add a stick of RAM --> test boot --> differant stick of RAM --> Etc.)?
  9. Hi, If the PC is spinning up, but you still arn't getting any output (I'm guessing you've tried a CMOS reset already, just in case), my primary guess would be the on-board graphics are shot for some reason. I'd recomend you try and get your hands on an old GPU, circumvent the on-board and chech that it isn't something more serious. Additionly, does the PC have more than one display output?
  10. Hi, Am I right in thinking that the ASUS prime z390-a has a power-on button directly on the motherboard? Does using that button, instead of the case button, give the same result? Additionaly, do you have a spare PSU that you can use to test the system? Though you've tested that the PSU can get a start signle from the Motherboard, there is still the possibility that your PSU is faulty and it's just taken this long to show. Anouther question that also comes to mind is, is it possible that the power inverter itself has damaged the PSU slowly over time? Also, have you tried swapping the power cable?
  11. Hi, If you step the refresh rate down to 75hz, or as close to as possible, on the 144hz monitor (you can do this under system settings in Windows 10) do you still get the crash? Additionaly, have you tried un-pluging unplugging the 75Hz monitor and testing the overclock with just the 144Hz active? What software are you using to key in the GPU overclock? As Itachi_Uchiha said as well, I would also check to make sure you're running on the latest drivers for the GPU.
  12. Hi, Just to clarify. Are you saying the power button doesn't work so you are currently pulling the main power then the PC automatically turns on when you plug it back in, or is it you have to unplug --> plug --> press power button, to get the system to boot? Additionaly, when you say boot, do you mean starting the OS or are you getting no responce (no POST or BIOS) at all unless you unplug/plug?
  13. On all 4 modules? Was the stress test a CPU/Mem combo or just Memory? How long did you leave the test running for?
  14. Next, I'd load all the RAM and then check that it's showing up in the BIOS. Following that -if all RAM is present- booting into a memory test application and run a health check on it. That is if you don't have any spare RAM laying around (just enough to test with). Given that the PC is POSTing, and the listed symptoms, I'd hedge my bets on your issue being a damaged RAM module.
  15. Have you tried booting up with Linux from a flash drive? Does it run stable when not reading from the SSD?