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About shahaan

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  1. Yeah I thought about RMA but it's honestly not that bad. I get intermittent thermal throttling once in a while but it never lasts for more than a few seconds. It's a good laptop, the hardware is stable which was confirmed with hours and hours of stress tests. The question for me is whether it's worth it to spend the shipping, time and energy to RMA it and the answer for me is no.
  2. Agreed. Nobody needs marketing--bullshit or otherwise.
  3. Hmm, that's interesting. Well, let me see if I can break down the differences between the two and that might shed some light on the "sorcery." Model: Lenovo Y520 vs. MSI GS65-8RE Cores: 4 vs. 6 (+50%) Size (W): 15in/381mm vs. 14in/357mm (-7%) Size (D):10.4in/264mm vs. 9.7in/247mm (-7%) Size (H):1.1in/28mm vs. 0.70in/18mm (-36%) Weight: 5.29lbs/2.4kg vs. 4.14lbs/1.88kg (-22%) So, the MSI is considerably lighter (22%) and smaller especially on the height/thickness (36%), and has two additional CPU cores doing work which need to be cooled. Without looking further into other factors like the specific design of the heat sink fan assembly, number of pipes, fans, size of fans, etc., I would say that the size differential seems to be the key in explaining why the Lenovo cools so much better. Simply put, the Lenovo has much more space to pack in a cooling solution with a higher heat dissipation capacity.
  4. TLDR: Successfully applied Arctic Silver 5 and Arctic Thermal Pads to eliminate thermal throttling on MSI GS65 8RE gaming laptop. I have an MSI GS65 8RE Stealth Thin gaming laptop (i7-8750H, GTX 1060) which has suffered from thermal throttling ever since it was purchased in 2018. It's an old model and there are plenty of reviews so I won't get into any further details or comments about build quality, difficulty of upgrade and so on. Of course, if anyone reading this has any specific questions, please feel free to ask and I'll be happy to answer. To solve the thermal throttling problem, I first tried the following "non-invasive" measures with varying degrees of success but the problem was not eliminated; nor was I satisfied having paid for a moderately top-tier hardware package only to limit its capabilities in order to use it for its intended purpose. - Turning off Hyper Threading - Turning off Tubro Boost - Undervolting - Turbo Boost frequency limiting - Package power limiting During heavy gaming (I'm saying "heavy" relative to the performance capacity of this particular hardware) such as Jedi Fallen Order on "Epic" 1080p graphics settings, the CPU would hit 93C with the fans sounding like a 747 during takeoff. HWiNFO showed sustained thermal throttling with the CPU frequency hovering around 2.7Ghz whereas the i7-8750H is rated up to 4.1Ghz boost (2.2Ghz base). Cinebench R20 benchmark scores were hovering around 2250 (average of 3 consecutive runs). Obviously, I did not expect this 17.9mm-thick laptop to be equipped with a cooling solution that can handle the heat dissipation requirements of an i7-8750H processor at its specified 90W, 4.1Ghz boost power limit and frequency, respectively. I would settle for a sustained boost anywhere above 3.0Ghz at its Intel-designated TDP-down power limit of 35W, without thermal throttling being activated. I think that's a fair expectation for hardware at this price point. Having opened the laptop before for SSD and RAM upgrades, I was familiar with its internals. I had also read a lot of users complaining about thermal throttling and claiming they were able to fix it with a re-paste of the heat sink fan rig. So I took the plunge and re-pasted the HSF with Arctic MX-4 thermal compound. Ensuring proper contact upon replacement of the cooling hardware on the motherboard and taking care to not bend or twist any part of it, I closed up the laptop and booted. No improvement. I was disappointed, to say the least, and I began to regret my purchase. That was last year. Fast-forward to the present and I came across a post where a user had not only re-pasted the CPU and GPU but also replaced the thermal pads on the VRAM and other surrounding components. I decided to give it one last shot. I opened it up (this is an achievement by itself, just look up a teardown video), cleaned up the old paste, applied new paste and replaced the thermal pads. This time I used Arctic Silver 5 and Arctic Thermal Pads (1.5mm thick). I also did something that may be frowned upon: I replaced all thermal pads, regardless of stock pad thickness (which varied from 0.5mm to 1mm and 2mm in one area) with 1.5mm and a 1.5+1.5mm thermal pad sandwich for the 2mm. To make sure that the copper parts of the HSF rig were properly making contact with the CPU and GPU, I carefully placed the HSF rig back over the motherboard and held it in place without the screws. Then I meticulously squished each of the thermal pads where they were too thick, causing a gap between the other contact points. Now the HSF was sitting flat on the CPU and GPU. Next I slowly removed the HSF rig ensuring not to let the thermal pads peel off or shift. After applying the thermal compound on the CPU and GPU, I again placed the HSF rig back on and screwed it in place. I had extra thermal pad left over so I placed one on top of what looked like the PCH (maybe?), as well as beneath and above the two NVMe SSDs and on both RAM sticks. After closing up carefully ensuring all the cables and screws were securely in place, I booted up and ran Cinebench R20. To my absolute and complete delight, the core temp value reported by HWiNFO did not exceed 84C. By the way, I had a stable undervolt of -155mV already set, which obviously helped. The machine sustained a boost frequency around 3.3Ghz at 35W power limit and resulted in an average Cinebench score of 2460 over three consecutive runs. Other than undervolt and power limit, there are no other performance/heat limiting settings enabled. For good measure, I also ran Prime95 stress test and Unigine Heaven graphics benchmark to check system stability. All checked out. Temperatures did not exceed 84C. I want to clarify that this was in a non-AC room where the ambient was around 24C which is on the warm side of comfortable. Needless to say, thermal performance would be even better in a cooler environment. The Nvidia GTX 1060 hits 90C running Heaven benchmark on Extreme preset but the CPU caps out at 71C. The fans are loud, which is to be expected, but they run noticeably quieter than before. For reference, the max fan speed set in MSI Dragon Center is 65% for CPU and 75% for GPU. I hope this helps anyone else facing similar problems. And as I said earlier, if anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!
  5. Hi, I have an MSI GS65 "Stealth Thin" laptop with an i7-8750H (6 cores). When running benchmarking workloads, I notice that a few of the cores heat up unevenly. Does this possibly indicate a need to remove and re-paste the CPU heat sink? Or could it be due to something else worth looking into? Thanks. Running Prime95 small FTTs: Core 0 ... 79C ... -1C from core 2 Core 1 ... 75C ... -5C from core 2 Core 2 ... 80C ... taking this core as baseline Core 3 ... 75C ... -5C from core 2 Core 4 ... 79C ... -1C from core 2 Core 5 ... 74C ... -6C from core 2
  6. Indeed, my daily workload does not remotely approach the beating P95 doles out on the CPU. I was tinkering more out of curiosity and boredom. Thanks for your assistance, I'm getting a steady 4.5Ghz at 77C with power limit set to 140W and the cooler fan running silent. I'm happy with this outcome.
  7. I was under the impression that at T-junction 100C the CPU will auto-shutdown to prevent damage. Apart from being 2C away from that event, the heat sink fan gets loud enough to be disturbing when the temp exceeds the 80C range. Not to mention the hotter it runs, the higher the likelihood of hardware errors and failure.
  8. Thanks for this. I tried running with unlimited power but the temps rose up to 98C so I stopped P95 immediately. Through trial and error I have settled on a 140W long boost limit and left the 200W short boost limit at its default. Now with P95 I get 4.3Ghz at 77C which is reasonably acceptable, I believe? Cinebench R15 ... 4.6Ghz at 65C. Cinebench R20 ... 4.5Ghz at 66C. Both Cinebench tests complete in less than 30-60 seconds. Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
  9. Hi. My system is stable at a sustained 3.6Ghz boost clock running Prime95 (small FFTs L1/2/3 max. heat, power) while reaching no more than 60-deg.C package temp. I'm using Intel XTU with the following tweaks: - Turbo Boost Power Max 75W (default 65W) - Core Voltage Offset -0.070V - Cache Voltage Offset -0.070V I'll appreciate if someone who has experience with this particular CPU can tell me if this is decent performance from this particular CPU or should I be able to get a higher sustained boost clock? Is there any other XTU setting I should look at tweaking to get a little bit more? NB: I'm not looking for an extreme OC and do not want to push the CPU too far past its power specs, but a 60-deg.C package temp tells me I have room to safely/conservatively push it a little further, maybe?? Thanks. System: i9-9900 (non-K) ROG Strix Z390-i 16GB DDR4-2666 Silverstone FTZ01 mini-ITX Noctua NH-L12S
  10. Yes, removing the SSD during installation of Linux will, obviously, be the best guarantee that it will not touch the Windows installation. Definitely a valid option if convenient to do so. I did not suggest it earlier as physical modifications to laptops are becoming more complex and many are not comfortable with it.
  11. Your answer is already provided above but to put it another way: When you are booting into Kali, you are not using the 30GB virtual HDD. Instead, it is simply booting into a "live" version of Kali that is running only in the RAM of your VM. As mentioned earlier, when you first start the VM, the Kali boot menu will present the option to "install to hard disk", or may even have a shortcut on the live environment desktop to run the installer. Install it to your 30GB virtual HDD and then remove the ISO image from the virtual CD ROM drive to boot into the Kali that got installed to your 30GB virtual HDD. Hope that helps clear things up a bit.
  12. The new version of Etcher is definitely a bit annoying with those ads but I have used it countless number of times without any problems whatsoever. Then again, I have only used it on Linux (Debian/Ubuntu) machines and not Windows so I cannot speak to that experience. One thing I like about Etcher is the option to verify the written-to drive against the original ISO image after burning is completed. A good alternative to Etcher on Windows that I have successfully used in the past is Rufus.
  13. I did not see the video but I have a lot of experience dual-booting Linux and Windows. Yes, you can dual-boot by installing Linux to the HDD instead of the SSD. Yes, you can shrink the existing data partition on your HDD (using Windows Computer Management > Disk Management) and install Linux in the resulting free space (50GB should be more than sufficient for testing and trial). I recommend Ubuntu 18.04 LTS if this is your first time. Get the Ubuntu Desktop ISO image file and write it to a blank USB flash drive using Etcher. You will be presented with the option to use the largest available free space when you boot with the USB and follow the prompts. You will be presented with the choice to install GRUB boot loader to either drive. Be sure to select your HDD, otherwise GRUB will overwrite the Windows boot loader on your SSD and it will be a chore to revert back if you choose to remove the Ubuntu installation later on. An alternative way that will make the disk selection for install more fool-proof is to go into your laptop's BIOS and check if it allows you to disable the SATA port to which the SSD is connected. That way, when you boot with the Ubuntu USB, the installer will only see your HDD and will not touch your Windows installation. Then, to select whether to boot into Windows or Ubuntu, you simply press the appropriate F-key (e.g. F11 or whatever it is for your laptop) to access the boot device selection menu (if available, or go into BIOS if not) and manually select the drive to boot from. Later, if you choose to delete Ubuntu, it is as simple as deleting the Ubuntu partition using Windows Computer Management > Disk Management) from the HDD and expanding the previously shrunk data partition back to its original size. Hope this helps.
  14. Try this: 1. Download and install Etcher. 2. Download the live ISO image of your choice, example Ubuntu Desktop. 3. Plug in USB flash drive of sufficient size, 4GB usually does the trick (it will be wiped, so make sure you do not have any important data on it). 4. Launch Etcher and write the ISO image to the USB flash drive. 5. Plug the USB flash drive into your old Windows laptop and hit the appropriate [F]unction key to go load the BIOS boot menu and select your USB flash drive to boot from it. Might be F2, F8, F10, etc. depending on your laptop model.