m4inbrain

Cheers man, that's a bit disappointing. I guess i can't really have it all, i foresee me buying a thick low FPI 360, sticking it to a PC-011 Dynamic and call it a day.

@Kalm_Traveler1 I've seen crossflow designs from Alphacool (from Hardware Labs too) - i do understand that they're less restrictive, how do they stack up in cooling capacity? Are you cooling the Titan + the i9, or purely GPU? I do need a rear fan since my CPU is still aircooled, so proper airflow in the case is still a necessity. Good to hear that the Define R6 fits 420s, can you recall as to how thick you can go (as in, how thick a radiator you can fit + 25mm for fans?) - i actually like that case, and it's quite cheap/good value.

Yeah i just figured after checking "local" shop, guess 30mm it is for now. That's okay. Gonna squirm through reviews now, trying to figure out if the Nemesis 420 GTS is the best option, or if Alphacool, Bitspower and god knows who else does something decent too.

I like my Pro too, that's why i'd prefer to keep it, and run a slim-ish 420mm radiator for the time being. I'll have another look around for suggested 40mm 420mm radiators, but for now i think i'm sorted.

I got the Enthoo Pro, not Primo - i have a total of 65mm to play with (including fans) according to Phanteks. There's no space for fans basically under the filter but on top of the chassis, if that makes sense. Looking at the Primo, i can see what you mean - but on my case, that doesn't work. Mind, i kinda like the Primo SE in white, so eventually that could be my next case. Just wish they'd do a full tempered glass sidepanel (and no, i'm not gonna look at the $1000 Elite hehe).

I watched probably close to a hundred videos on the topic by now, this one might be in it - i can't recall. It would probably be smart to invest in an AC, though i'd argue that i could buy an entirely new high end system for the money i'd need to spend on it. Especially considering that it's only a quarter of a year with those kinds of temperatures, and even then it's hardly every day. It's also not an apartment, but an entire house. Electricity alone, don't even wanna think about it. That case seems a bit overkill for what i wanna do, i might just stick with that 420 GTS and call it a day. At 30ish mm, plus 25 for the fans, it leaves enough room to the motherboard (10mm). And it'll do the job i'm asking it for. Later down the line i might get another thick 360 if i decide to include the next CPU in the loop (purely dependant on the stock temps it'll be running at, can't tell yet obviously). Cheers.

I've read that they're comparably restrictive, but i was assuming that since i'm only running that single radiator plus an EK waterblock (i think most of these pre-waterblocked cards use EK blocks) on a D5, that wouldn't be an issue. Ambient temp does to some degree play a role (it's around 35ish degrees where the case stands in the summer). Of course depends on the day, but i do want to account for that. No idea about the humidity, but since i live close to the sea, i'd assume that it's generally high-ish. No actual clue though. I intend to run Noctuas too (big "fan" of them, cough), but the lower i can keep the RPM the better. Your temps in general though is basically where i want my GPU at - 40-45C, but quiet. Hence a 420mm, plus the fact that it leaves headroom - once the next CPU arrives, probably a Zen 2, i don't need to buy another huge radiator or an entirely new LC setup to go with it. I'd prefer a 420x60mm rad to be perfectly honest, but that's factually not going to fit in my case, that's the problem. And most "new" cases i've seen have a glass paneled front, which doesn't help with the still aircooled CPU either. Harumph.

Okay. Here are the questions again, it seems they weren't obvious. What's the best 420mm radiator <40mm thick out there. What case fits a BI SR2 420mm comfortably without sacrificing airflow. Here is an example of something i didn't ask but got answered twice already: Is that too much radiator and should i get something smaller. I understand. It's too much. Now that that's out of the way, could we please stick to the questions that i asked, rather than going off the tracks? I'm sorry if that comes off as rude, but it's pretty obnoxious if i ask a question and from all sides i get told as to why my decision is "wrong". Which it obviously isn't, since even in the worst case, the only inherent problem with a 420mm radiator over a 240mm radiator is the size. It's the only radiator in the loop, with only one water block too, so not even restriction comes into play. There's a good example in the Watercooling 101 thread in this very forum. In that case, it's a XSPC RX360V2 without shroud at 1.5gpm with three fans. The maximum heat it can dissipate is around 555 watts. At 2800 rpm. I want my fans to run at roughly a quarter of that speed. The same radiator at 1000 rpm at 300w has a delta over ambient of 8 degrees. The founders edition 2080 pushes 280w stressed, a factory OC one probably more. See where i'm going?

Hey. Recently a few of my questions here got answered (cheers @For Science!), so i thought i might as well try again. Setup will be: my old and trusted i7 6700k together with its best friend, the Noctua DH15 (i plan to keep it, the performance is adequate for my needs) - and a 2080 pre-waterblocked (haven't decided yet, either a 2080 xtreme waterforce, hydro copper ftw3, sea hawk ek x etc - waiting for reviews to decide). Now, i'll admit freely, i'm not understanding the math behind radiators (delta T, etc) - i tried, but being on my own, i just am too uncomfortable sticking to my "results". So, i decided that i need a 420mm radiator for that GPU. Since there's no "too much radiator", i figured that this would be on the safe side and gives room for loop extensions later down the line, in case i do decide to add the CPU to the loop too (plus another 240/280mm radiator, whatever fits). I did "some" research (it's kinda hard to find decent results in regards to radiators if you don't understand "restriction", "flow rate" and "delta T"), but i assume that a HW Black Ice SR2 420/60mm does the trick - i figured that "low FPI" is something i'd want, since i do like my system to be somewhat quiet (DH15 levels of noise, basically). The goal is to have the GPU run at around 40-45 degrees stock (ie factory oc), i'm looking into watercooling more for peace of mind rather than ultimate performance - my i7 6700k isn't delidded, it runs stock, it does everything i need it to and the same will go for the GPU - except that i don't like seeing high temps at around 70 degrees. Sadly, my current Enthoo Pro doesn't fit these from what i can tell (65mm to motherboard according to website). Here's the actual question: what tower does, and more importantly, what tower does and still has decent airflow for the Noctua to do its job? Or, to be more exact: i need a tower that has good airflow even with a 420mm radiator mounted (needs to have at least fit 85mm thickness in radiator/fan), preferably windowed, not too humongous and at around £200 (i think around 250usd). Is there anything for me out there, or should i go a different route - and if so, which? Cheers. edit: or, here's a thought - the Nemesis 420 GTS is super thin and would fit in my current case (that would be the most preferable solution, really). Would it be enough to cool a 2080 at low-ish RPM? And as a sidequestion, for future possible reference, what is the best 38-40mm 420mm radiator out there?

Cheers, yeah that's definitely less painful than what i had in mind, consider me sorted on that front. I'll be honest, it's not the prettiest thing i've ever seen, but since looks is just a side effect for me, i don't care that much. I don't think i've got as much space in my (soon to be) new tower, i'm not sure that i could hide it in the bottom without "modifying" the shroud that goes over the PSU. If i see that correctly, you can basically hide your entire "hardware" there, including pump etc. I do have to keep in mind that my CPU pretty certainly will stay aircooled, so i don't necessarily want to fiddle too much with the internals since i usually have no idea what i'm doing anyways. Or, that's another possibility, keep an eye out for a new tower that ticks both boxes (good airflow and vasts amount of space while still being compact-ish, lol). I didn't entirely get the part with the splitter though, do you mean use the temp sensor as an "endpoint"? Isn't a splitter in itself a restriction, sort of? Or am i looking at the wrong fittings (basically Y splitters)? The sensors i saw were "inline" sensors.

Compression fittings it is then, good for me since i like those a lot more. I do have an ASUS board, that actually might be a good idea - though, i'll be honest, this here: does kinda tickle my fancy. I'll read up and watch reviews etc on that kind of stuff though. Not gonna run the loop without reservoir either, while i'm sure it's technically possible, a reservoir just is more convenient and probably safer too, since airbubbles are less of a problem. I'd assume. In regards to "U" in the loop, that's something i've already read about and will be considered when planning. Is running an inline-filter in the loop reasonable, or just a waste? In regards to draining again, i've seen "stoppers" for T-Fittings (stunning ones at that) - that should work too, or not? Have a random T Fitting low in the loop, plugged off, and once i get to draining it's basically like the oil change in a car, screw the stop out and catch can? edit: nevermind, i'm stupid. I didn't read properly what you've said. I didn't know that T-Fittings don't directly go into the loop but need two male fittings, only occured to me when i looked at one. Makes sense now.

I'll be honest, i actually didn't know that 60 degrees is basically danger to manifold. I don't think that was stated in the how to's, stickies and all the other stuff i've read. But that's what i'm here for, in the end - even if i make myself look like a dummy here and there, if that prevents my baby from melting, so be it. That said, out of interest, is a pump/reservoir combo more efficient since the pump is at least partially submerged (if i saw that correctly), instead of sitting somewhere along the loop? My plan was to get a tube pump/reservoir combo if possible (while making sure that the pump is a D-5, that one is set in stone), and then basically just run tubing to card and radiator, with maybe a display for water temperature (if not too restrictive, would need to read up on that). Also, in regards to fittings, is there an acknowledged standard, as in "rather barbed than compression" or are both equally good? From a laymans perspective, the compression fittings look nicer, so i'd look for those instead of barbed ones, but i'd rather go with the "better" alternative than the "prettier" one, since the loop itself is originally planned for pretty pragmatic reasons. Next i'm gonna watch all kinds of videos to actually lay a plan out, because i know i'll get annoyed with myself and the water cooling once it comes to maintenance and i've done something stupid because i had a lazy. Draining, and efficiently so, doesn't seem to be that big a topic when i browse through reddit and forums. I'm old, convenience >> performance.

Jeez, yes, that's it. Getting old. Just for me to confirm, temps below 60 degrees celsius should be realistic, with a radiator at either 280 or 420mm (i got 140mm noctuas spare)? I mean it of course depends on the block, but in general? That's all i need/goal, i don't want to see 60s anywhere. While being around the volume of a DH-15? edit: stock clocks of course, and 60 degrees not in benchmarks but gaming.

Cheers man, exactly what i need, very helpful. Much appreciated. One last thing, by chance, a company that makes tubing that has an X somewhere - you got any idea? It was something like XKDC or something? It's of course not that (funny as they are), but i have that stuck in my head and for the life of me i can't figure out where i saw it.

Cheers mate, yeah i saw those hybrid cards, and while technically you're correct, they'd absolutely be what i need (though i'd prefer a less dinky radiator, i got the space and the bigger the radiator, the less the fans have to work). Here's my problem with these. As i mentioned, i installed AIOs before (H110, and two H115). The reason why i installed three AIOs and still ended up with a DH-15 (probably the best purchase i've made for my sanity in terms of computer parts) is that the H110 had, i assume, somewhere an airbubble - the temps were nowhere near what i should've gotten allegedly (on the 6700k), it ran in games up to 85 degrees celsius, that didn't even remotely work for me. Corsair tried to fix it by telling me to run it in all kinds of weird positions, which i did, didn't help. I then thought screw it, there's a bigger one - bigger is better. Bought the H115, dead on arrival, pump didn't work. Sent that to corsair, got a replacement kit, which lasted roughly 6 months, and then that pump died too. At that point i've just plain given up. Sure i could've RMAd that one too, but i still have it in the garage in my old parts box. Ordered a DH-15, peace of mind ever since - for the CPU. I was at the point where i was so desperate that i was thinking of delidding and LMing my CPU to get decent temps, and as it turned out, was never needed. With a hybrid card, i can't just replace the cooler with an old one and RMA it - i'd be without GPU for an RMA once it dies. The upside of a custom loop to me in this case isn't "better performance", it's "being able to service it". If my pump dies in a custom loop, i replace it, and back to being happy. If it dies in a hybrid card (especially not knowing what kind of pump it is, and more importantly, with my history of/with AIOs).. Well i'm kinda shafted. At least that's my thought process, which might be flawed, but that's where i'm at currently. edit: @above, i didn't mean to imply that i'm set on the EVGA, it was just the first one that came to mind. Cheers for the info though, i like my current MSI card so that's something i'll absolutely look into.