OldManGaming

In your situation though I'd go M32U instead of M28U, as you'd prob get way more out of 4k on a 32 inch than 28 inch monitor.

Seems like a no-brainer to go monitor since you keep raving about how good 4k looked when you played it. 9700k should be fine for the lifetime of your 3080 since you'll probably be strongly gpu bound in any AAA game at 4k.

That depends on what you're doing with it ofcourse, if you keep playing similar games you'll be fine but if you suddenly want to play a new game that might come out it might not, though generally AAA games are more GPU heavy so i think it'll do fine till 2025

I think the gigabyte screen you suggested is the best one for your purposes, unless you're getting into the $1k category where I'd go for a 1440p OLED instead of 4k lcd but that's just my eyes being slightly imperfect.

Honestly would not suggest 4k 144hz for a while. its just something that isnt viable running at high fps even with 3080/3090 without a lot of tinkering and depending on the game engine you still may only hit the 40-70 fps mark. You already have 3440x1440, thats more then enough for now. What exactly is pushing you to do it?

I'd stick with your 1440p 144hz monitor and maybe upgrade your second screen to a decent 4k 60hz monitor if you will even notice the difference because it's very hard to notice on sub 27 inch screens.
Also if you aren't prefomance limited by anything no need to upgrade your cpu, the money CAN stay in your bank account for when something happens

94 is just way too much 75 is ok but that should be the maximum im pretty sure ur aio is dying

There are so many 1440p displays out there, that it would be hard for me to recommend a specific one.
If you're going to get a 1440p display, make sure it has G-Sync supported Freesync or supports G-Sync natively.
 
If you want to know what it woulf be like to use a 2560x1440p display, simply select that resolution on your ultrawide. You'll have exactly that with massive bezels 😛
That way you can also check performance.
 
But if you don't mind a 24" 1080p panel, then get one of those if you're into competitive gaming. It can certainly give you the edge over other players.
(And will probably help you with your chat-reading abilities :)) 

I understand what you have in mind.
Before I got the ultrawide, I had a 27" Samsung 1080p 60hz display and back then, this was great because if the relatively large size for its time.
After I upgraded I gave it away to a friend.

Roughly one year later I was at his place trying to play Battlefield on that display and my first reaction was literally to ask him, whether he forgot to set the resolution to full HD or if something was wrong with his GPU. But no, it was simply the fact that 1080p at this size is so incredibly disgusting once you go 1440p that I couldn't believe it actually being Full HD. And since you probably want to get a 27" display rather than a 24" display, to match the hight of your existing 21:9, I recommend you to go with a 1440p display instead, unless you want to go with a smaller screen. Imo that would feel very much like a massive downgrade tho.

Fallout 76 is a f*cking pile of... not so great game.Bethesda never managed to support 21:9 displays properly.
I own a 21:9 myself and rarely have any issues with games. It honestly surprised me that "A Plague Tale", which I recently played, doesn't support 21:9 natively.
 
Anyway. My GTX 1080 can push around 80FPS in CoD Modern Warfare at high settings on 3440x1440.
A 1080Ti should be able to push 120FPS I'd assume.
 
You really have to decide what you want at this point:
Pretty graphics or high refresh rates and responsiveness, cause I tell you, if you didn't like 3440x1440, then you'll hate full HD at anything higher than 24", no matter the refresh rate.

I think what you should ask yourself is, what you're going to do with that perfectly fine 21:9 display that you have, if you buy a new monitor.
If it's just sitting around, then don't buy a new monitor.
If you can sell it for a good amount of money, then pick whatever you like the most and in that case I'd say get a nice 1440p display if you're looking for great graphics, but also playable framerates without upgrading your GPU in the near future. Any 4K display might require you to upgrade your GPU in the future and 1080p just doesn't look good anymore if you go with a larger than 24" display.

As someone whose also rocking a 34" UWQHD I'd never go back to 1080p, no matter the refresh rate. 
27" 1440p is good but for 4k I'd go min 30". 
 
I'd say deal with the UW until something really worthwhile the upgrade shows up, like Oled or whatever. 

Then yes one or both just broke. 

Help me Techie Wan Kenobi, your're my only hope!
 
Hey all, here is a unique issue.
 
This happened about 18 month ago and I reformated the problem away.  It seemed to have worked, but is not an answer now.
 
The desktop with this issue in connected via netgear powerline adapters(the ones you plug into the wall.
 
The modem/router in one from comcast in in the basement on the other end of the house, and we use powerlines to connect them, as drilling through the floor is not what we wish to do.
 
 
All was well until a few days ago when suddenly ethernet doesn't have a valid ip configuration.  I have tried every fix I can think of.  Reset modem/router.  Resync the powerline 1000.  reinstall the ethernet drivers.
 
Everything in this guide, I have tried all of these steps, which none has fixed it. 
https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/ethernet-doesnt-have-a-valid-ip-configuration-on-windows-solved/
 
Does anybody have any suggestions?  The pc was working fine for over a year.  The only things to change in the house, 
 
I bought a 65inch Samsung Smart tv, but the internet seemed fine.  Then I built a new pc in the basement that connects to the modem down there.  I have no issues building and basic virus removal, but networking is my kryptonite for sure.
 
Please help a geek in need out.  Thanks
 
Merry Christmas to all!

Did you try to re-pair them plugged into outlets next to each other?

Checked if there is a firmware update for them?

Failing that, a factory reset might be necessary.

nothing on the home front changed, so I am thinking one of the boxes just died partially.  To verify it wasnt a issue with the desktop I tried a 2nd desktop then bought both plugs and a laptop into the same room as the modem and tried testing.  Nothing worked.  Ill report back on the eero wifi system early next week-taking the weekend off lol

I'm going to guess from top to bottom is:
Power Detects an active Ethernet cable. Detects the other Powerline Adapter. If LED 3 isn't lit then that sounds like a communication issue between the two which could mean defective hardware, a need to Factory Reset them, or something about your home wiring has changed for the worse.

Looks like either one of the powerline adapters failed or something changed in the electrical setup that precents them from communicating.
 
Try them in adjacent sockets, if they still can't connect then one is just dead.

If you're seeing this problem elsewhere on the network working your way back to the router helps determine the culprit. If the router itself is giving clients issues across the network and unplugging clients doesn't fix the issue then the cause is very likely a bum router.

Some electronics (like motors-fans) introduce noise into the system. It's possible there's interference on the line causing them to lose connection (or just excessive distance). You could try other outlets if other circuits in the rooms are available.

That tells us it's not the computer . Have a spare cable to test with?
Do you have any extra power line adapters? Other brands? I'm going to guess if other network devices aren't affected that it's probably an issue with the adapters or connected Ethernet cables.

Have you tried a different PC to ensure its not the powerline adapters that have failed?

I have the same exact GPU. 75c is perfectly normal, and you shouldn't be worrying about it unless it hits 85-90+. Mine sits just shy of 80c during games and it is silent. The FTW3 is EVGA's top of the line model and they definitely do not make it with the hopes of consumers killing it. 
 
Put your fans on the standard or silent profile and let it be, Precision X doesn't need to be open, they will kick on when needed.

You might have MCE enabled. Link to manual: https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_z390-ud_v2_e.pdf
Abot the fan thing. Should be in stock BIOS? When under 60c fans shouldn't turn. So try closing Precision X1 and stop it from starting and restart - launch a game and they should start when temperatures go up.

Yes again check clocks, when in browser for example. But your idle temps is just over 30 C, which is perfectly normal. This will only happen when your cpu is on idle clock 800mhz