cichington

Logitech has a G603 with 3 side buttons and Lightspeed wireless as an alternative.
 
But yeah, it seems like buttons are limited on wireless.

I use the logitech g604. It has 6 side buttons, 3 on top. It also has a dongle or can use bluetooth. I have a lot of  wireless and bluetooth devices in my office and have no interference problems. It's worth considering.

Roland loves being the center of attention!

I'd say it all comes down to what your preference is. I studied Electrical Engineering in college which was not an easy subject.  Lot's of late nights, headaches, fun experiences, and a few breakdowns later and I made it out.  If I didn't actually enjoy studying what I was then I would have definitely had a lot harder of a time finishing. 

I am now almost a year and a half post-graduation with a job that allows me to have a very good work-life balance.  When in school, it is tougher to achieve a good work-life balance as there is usually a lot more stuff going on, and school can seem like a chore at times (in my experience).   Now that I am out of school, I don't think I ever want to go back, but I am glad I did it.  Depending on what you want to do, and the knowledge you want to obtain will determine what the best choice is for you.  You for sure get more real-world experience working but the academic resources, memories, friends, and more you get from going to school are worth it.  
 
Don't let you parents steer you in the direction they want you to go, steer yourself in the direction you want to go.  In the end they do truly want to best for you, but only you know what's the best for you.

Roland loves being the center of attention!

Roland loves being the center of attention!

pro money saving tip.. dont buy from those 'special cable' brands, but buy the 'knockoffs' from the likes of goobay, chances are you're cutting cost in half, and it's basicly the same cable.

Yeah. Assuming it's a wireless router, it would have to be outside of the box. I wasn't even thinking about the WiFi originally.

I can't immediately see anything technically wrong with the way you have it set up. Effectively, you're creating a very long ethernet cable with the way you have it now. Instead, you can install the router in/by the junction box. Then the patch cables from the 555-030 module go to the router.
 
Then I decided my explanation was going to get confusing so I made a diagram. I didn't bother showing the coax, just the ethernet. The blue cables are in the wall. The others are the patch cables. This should make the individual lengths between devices shorter, which will hopefully eliminate some problems. Also, you can connect 3 more devices to the wall jacks this way in the future.
 

 
Edit: Also, this will help diagnose where your problem is, since you won't have the whole run between devices and instead only one smaller part of it.

I evaluated the information we have and determined that I would get a 10900k.
 
Reasoning:
 
The 11700k looks like it's only marginally better than the 10700k even with gear 1, and there's no way the 11900k can make up significant ground with only 100mhz more all-core boost.
 
Yes, the turbo TVB looks impressive on paper at 5.3ghz, but that never happens. It will be at its all-core turbo 99% of the time. Even if it is, there's no way that justifies the price hike of 35% over the 11700k. 
 
There's two ways to look at this, assuming both can do Gear 1/memory:
 
1. Both are totally tapped out and have little OC headroom, which would justify why Intel thought the i9 deserves to be an i9 for solely the minor increase in clock speed, then we know from historical information 100mhz isn't make or break for any CPU. The i9-11900k is not worth the 35% premium in this case.
 
2. Both have some headroom, with the 11700k having slightly less. Is there an appreciable difference in performance between a 5.1ghz 10900k and a 5.3ghz 10900k? Not really. It's then an assumption that the minor headroom on the 11900k isn't worth the 35% premium.
 
So that rules out the 11900k as a reasonable option. The i9-11900k pricing is legitimately Ryzen 9 5900x money. Which makes the i9-11900k DOA imo.
 
So that leaves the 11700k at $399, which at stock settings appears to be only slightly faster at gaming than the 10700k. If we cross reference that with 10900k data, we see that the 10900k routinely outperforms the 10700k in almost all gaming tests by more than the margin that the 11700k beats the 10700k. 
 
It's then an assumption based on known data that the 10900k will probably be at least within a few % points one way or another to the 11700k, and probably in some scenarios it's going to be faster thanks to it's higher clock speed and additional cores.
 
Then we look at the fact the 10900k (or 10850k) can be obtained for pretty cheap these days, for as little as $319 for the 10850k.  So you ask yourself, $399 for an 8/16 that is marginally (if at all) faster at gaming than the 10850k, or $319 for the 10850k instead?
 
At that point, it's price to performance, and the i9-10850k wins IMO.
 
Then all we REALLY have left is PCIE3 vs PCIE4. Is PCIE4 worth the 25% premium for the 11700k? 
 
I have almost zero faith the 11th gen will be good. D8baur thinks these chips might OC well because their dies are larger. It's possible, and I hope I'm wrong.
 
 
I'm running 4000mt/s on my loser bargain bin 10900KF at 5.1+ghz with 4.8ghz cache.
 
You won't see the 5.3ghz boost of the 11900k most of the time. It will be at 4.7ghz 99% of the time, as will the 11700k be at 4.6ghz 99% of the time. 4.8/4.7 if you can keep them under 70c.
 
You can use a Z590 motherboard, so it doesn't really matter.
 
I'll happily eat my words and call myself King Loser if I'm wrong, but I doubt it's gonna happen.
11900k - only if you are Team Intel
11700k - worth considering
10600k/11400/11600k - seems good for budget gaming
5900x - good choice for top end performance, unrivaled in its price class
5950x - unparalleled performance
10700k/10850k/10900k - good value with current discounts
 
 

Could also reset bios default settings and see what that does. Also, you could try updating to latest bios.

it sounds like a boot order problem. go into your bios and make sure you select your drive as the primary boot device, it sounds like it wants to boot from removable storage. then swap the SATA port the SSD is plugged into for a different one. 

A couple things lose value faster with use, so i'll go by component.
 
i7-4770K - $250
Corsair H100i - $60 (risk of leaks because of shipping and possible original user misuse)
MSI Z87-G45 - $80 (mobos only really lose value because of capacitor age)
Corsair 8GB DDR3-1866 - $40
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB - $30
WD AV-GP 2TB - $30 (used storage loses a lot of value, I don't recommend selling or buying it used).
EVGA GTX 780 - $180 (damn, GPUs lose value fast)
Corsair C70 Case - $80
ASUS Optical drive - $10
Corsair AF120 X3 - $30
Corsair K70 - $80
Razer Deathadder - $40
Logitech Speakers - Don't know
NZXT Hue LED strip - $30
 
I would only sell the items in bold and that amounts for $800, and the rest you should keep so you can continue doing some computing work (on a different computer). If you sell the bits not in bold, that would be $190 + what the speakers are worth.
 
Now remember this is my opinion and I tend to undervalue whenever I miss the mark. But that's what I would consider a deal fair to both buyer and seller.

I'd try to sell it for 1700/1800 and be ready for a haggle down to 1500. Otherwise @dexxterlab97 has a good figure.
 
Would you be interested in selling the Steam Link or Hue?

I feel really bad for you man, hope you get yourself another one soon

http://www.anandtech.com/show/7911/razer-blackwidow-ultimate-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-review/3
 
You can find plenty more evidence by googling "razer switch kailh" or something similar.

I must say you do have a quite good taste for profile pics

Of course this happens right as the return policy time limit on my cherry red k65 runs out

GeForce?

GeForce?

GeForce?

I didn't choose the tech life, the tech life chose me

Well if you were coming from a 20" 1600x900 monitor you might not mind it because that 25" 21:9 display is equivalent in height to a 20" monitor . As far as 34" ultrawide displays go, unless you were going for a 3440x1440 res one, the pixel density is at a pitiful 81 PPI as oppose to 95 PPI on a 29" one. So the clarity wouldn't be as good. But those 34" 21:9 3K monitors don't come cheap so the OP would be better off with a 29" one instead.

That's not entirely correct. A 29" ultrawide monitor is equivalent in height to a 23" 1080p monitor. The extra 6" are made up in the width. See the example below.

Source: http://www.displaywars.com/23-inch-16x9-vs-29-inch-21x9