Jump to content

cichington

Member
  • Posts

    60
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by cichington

  1. I ended up going with the G604. I've been using it for about a month and I love it! I thought I'd miss the extra bells and whistle like RGB, swappable side panel, etc., but honestly for the money this is the best mouse in this category. Plus the classic infinite Logitech scroll wheel is always a good time. The software can require some "patience" sometimes but overall it's fine. Thanks for the recommendation!!
  2. I purchased a Razer Naga Pro Wireless during black Friday in November 2021, and have had nothing but problems with it. I was met with an unfortunate stuttering issue that many others have faced due to 2.4 Ghz interference with the dongle. I have tried to use the mouse in bluetooth but the poor polling rate is not up to my standards, and have have tried all possible fixes for it. I am still within the return window (one upside to Amazon) and am looking into other options. I would prefer to have one with 5-6 side mouse buttons but it seems Razer is really the only mouse brand that has these sorts of wireless mice. After some research, I think i've decided to go with the Corsair M65 Ultra Wireless even though it only has 3 side mouse buttons. What are your thoughts on this choice and are there any other mice you'd recommend as an alternative? Any information or insight would be great!
  3. Received my Volta Cable today and I can confirm that it does NOT fit the Razer Naga Pro. It appears the only Micro-USB cable that will fit is the one that is included in the box.
  4. I'd suggest upgrading the SSD to a PCIE Gen 4 drive to take advantage of the faster speeds. For an extra $10 over the Samsung 970 EVO Pro you can get a Sabrent Rocket 4 which has great reviews!
  5. One can dream..... But in all seriousness I think we are going to be seeing shortages until late 2022-early 2023 at the earliest. It will not be an immediate thing that is resolved overnight, it's going to be a long process but here's to hoping it is sooner rather than later.
  6. 3060 TI's are $800 sealed on the second-hand market in my area. Currently getting a 30-series card anywhere but a retailer is not worth it. When I mentioned low-end cards, I was talking about the GT 710 you have in your build or something that similar. I'd classify a 3060 TI as a mid-tier card tbh. Regardless, it is a very solid build but people seem to be turned off by builds without decent GPU's because of how much of a pain/ the price of the market is for GPU's.
  7. Roland loves being the center of attention!
  8. I'd say it all comes down to what your preference is. I studied Electrical Engineering in college which was not an easy subject. Lot's of late nights, headaches, fun experiences, and a few breakdowns later and I made it out. If I didn't actually enjoy studying what I was then I would have definitely had a lot harder of a time finishing. I am now almost a year and a half post-graduation with a job that allows me to have a very good work-life balance. When in school, it is tougher to achieve a good work-life balance as there is usually a lot more stuff going on, and school can seem like a chore at times (in my experience). Now that I am out of school, I don't think I ever want to go back, but I am glad I did it. Depending on what you want to do, and the knowledge you want to obtain will determine what the best choice is for you. You for sure get more real-world experience working but the academic resources, memories, friends, and more you get from going to school are worth it. Don't let you parents steer you in the direction they want you to go, steer yourself in the direction you want to go. In the end they do truly want to best for you, but only you know what's the best for you.
  9. It seems PC's without GPU's or PC's with low-end GPU's are a tough sell right now with how much of a pain it is to get a some-what decent GPU. Not sure if this is the same in Russia but in my area I could see this going for $650-$750 USD.
  10. Using a freedom tape measure I got 7/16" or about .4375" or 11.1125mm. This is rounding down to account for some small indentations in the slot so I think it will work. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and just buy it and report back here with my findings. Stay Tuned...
  11. Hey all, I recently bit the bullet and went full wireless for my mouse and keyboard (Highly Recommend). I picked up a Razer Naga Pro, and a Razer Blackwidow V3 Pro during Cyber Monday. Unfortunately, the Naga Pro use Micro USB, and the Blackwidow uses USB C for charging. To keep the clean aesthetic, I wanted to only have one cable visible to charge both of them if needed. I was wanting to go with Volta Style Cable and just keep the small magnetic plugs in the peripherals however the Naga Pro has very little clearance where the cable plugs into the mouse. Has anyone used one of these and if so does it fit? Another option would be to get a Micro USB to USB C adapter, but that would not be ideal as those adapters tend to be a little chunky for my liking. Any advice or input on the matter would be great! Here's a picture of the charging port on the Naga Pro for reference:
  12. Gotcha, to my limited knowledge, i'd have to use a sub with high level input/output if I wanted to filter some low-end away from the speakers right? The SMSL AD18 does have some EQ adjustments I can make but I don't believe it has any filtering capabilities to what I've found online.
  13. Hello, I am currently in the process of a budget 2.1 set-up for the TV and a record player in the living room. Currently I have the SMSL AD18 taking an input from my TV via optical and record player via AUX and outputting to a pair of Klipsch R-41M Speakers. This set-up satisfies my needs of sounding better than the TV speakers, and having a small footprint (The SMSL is tiny). I am wanting to add a subwoofer into the mix as the speakers lack a bit on the low end, and I want some more boom when watching movies. I am a little confused as to what I am needing for set-up. This amp states the COAX doubles as a Subwoofer output as seen below: I am a little skeptical about this as it seems it won't be the cleanest signal to the sub. My question is should I be fine using this as a connection to sub and getting a sub with these inputs: Or should I get a sub with high-level inputs/outputs as seen below, and not use the sub out on the amp (I will not be getting a Polk Sub, it's just for reference): Any input on the matter would help as there is not much information about the output on the amp that I could find. Thanks!
  14. So after some troubleshooting, it turns out the ethernet jack I was originally using was either damaged or not run correctly. Thankfully there was another jack close by that worked and I have been able to get a stable connection. Thanks for the recommendations on troubleshooting!
  15. I did actually attempt to set up my modem and router in the junction box but was met with horrendous speeds due to the fact its a metal box. I may try and figure out a way to have the router outside for better coverage but I appreciate the suggestion. I will give it a shot today after work! Conveniently the coax is also located in the junction box (I can tap into the direct cable going into the street) so this would make it a little easier and lessen any potential issues with the ethernet jacks.
  16. Hey all, I recently moved to a new apartment that has ethernet jacks built in to the unit. I am not too familiar with these as the previous places I have lived have been too old to have them. To my understanding, as long as there are ethernet wires connecting my router to my PC, I should get a wired connection. The first time setting it up, I had a successful connection and was getting my advertised speeds of 400 Mbps. Great, problem solved? Nope, after a little gaming session on my wired connection I shut down my PC. The next day I booted up my PC and was greeted with no wired connection. Running the windows troubleshooting tool prompted a "connect an ethernet cable" solution. I double checked all my cables and restarted my router modem and PC and it solved the issue. I then shut my PC down and tried again a few hours later and was prompted with the same no connection. I attempted to troubleshoot to see if it was my PC but after connecting a long ethernet cord directly from the router to PC, it worked fine. I am asking to see what recommendations anyone has for assistance with this issue. I have attached a couple of pictures and a poorly drawn diagram made in MS Paint. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Note: I know this is the correct "bridged connection" in the "junction box" as this was the connection the couple of times it did work. Wall Port Near Router and Modem: "Junction Box": Diagram:
  17. Hi all, So currently 10th Gen Intel processor are on sale at Microcenter for a very good price. I am in the process of planning and buying my next build to use for primarily gaming with some light AutoCAD work when needed. I already have an RTX 3070 for my build. Is PCIE Gen 4 worth waiting for or should I just bite the bullet on the 10700k? I know 11th Gen will be better if I decide to upgrade down the line but I know for an 11th Gen i7 I am going to be paying at least $350-$400 (if they are in stock). The 10700k is on sale currently for $250. Any advice would be great! Thanks.
  18. That is a killer deal, however I am looking for a 1440p monitor. Thanks for the link though!
  19. My bad, updated with my budget of $150.
  20. Hey All, I am looking to get a second monitor that is relatively budget friendly to use as a second monitor. I recently upgraded from a 2560x1080 Ultrawide to a 2560x1440 165hz monitor and my second cheapo 1080p monitor looks horrendous. Since this will be a second monitor I do not care about refresh rate what so ever. My searching on Newegg and Amazon only brought monitors well over $200 as their refresh rates were at least 75hz. Any assistance or recommendations would be fantastic! Edit** Looking for something around $150-$200 Thanks!
  21. Would be really cool to see this in a Neural Network or AI real world situation. A video exploring that would be super interesting! @LinusTech
  22. It was a boot order problem. Thanks for the advice!!
  23. So I have been having some problems with my Samsung 850 EVO when booting. I have my OS installed on that drive, while I use a separate 2TB WD Black for storage. On boot, the 850 is not being recognized, and I get the "Insert a Boot Disk" message. I have found a work around though. If I unplug my 850 from my MOBO, and boot up and enter the BIOS, then once in the BIOS, plug the 850 back in, and then reboot, it works fine. I have tried switching out the SATA cables, and used different ports on my MOBO, but still get the same problem. Has anyone ever experienced this? Is this a problem with my SSD or what? Any advice would really help! Thanks!
  24. Alright so here's my dillema. I currently have a GTX-780 running to my ultrawide 2560x1080 monitor. It can run most new titles on high which is fine for me. I want to get a secondary 4k monitor only solely for streaming and whatnot. WIll not be pushing any heavy programs or playing games on this monitor. What would be the best way for me to have this connected to my rig without impacting the graphics performance on my other monitor? For reference I am using an i7 4770k Overclocked to 4.3 Ghz with a 240 rad, 8gb of 1866 DDR3 Ram, and 500gb of SSD storage. Any advice would help! -Thanks
  25. Well guys, it has come time where I must sell my rig for finacial reason. I love my baby to death but it's time to let her go. I made it back in 2014 and it was quite a decent build back then but I know there have been many upgrades that have come out recently for a fraction of the price of some of my parts but much more powerful. Just looking to get an idea on how much I could get for the rig. Would selling it all together or parting it out bring me the most cash? (Custom prices listed are what I paid for specific parts.) PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($250.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.99) Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($109.99) Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($68.11 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($199.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital AV-GP 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($61.00 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 780 3GB Superclocked ACX Video Card ($450.00) Case: Corsair Vengeance C70 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99) Power Supply: Corsair CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($81.99 @ Best Buy) Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer ($19.89 @ OutletPC) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM 64-bit ($83.99 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition 39.9 CFM 120mm Fan ($15.33 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 39.9 CFM 120mm Fans ($25.88 @ OutletPC) Monitor: AOC q2963Pm 29.0" 60Hz Monitor ($359.99) Keyboard: Corsair K70 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($189.99) Mouse: Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse ($48.44 @ Amazon) Speakers: Logitech Z323 30W 2.1ch Speakers ($49.99 @ Best Buy) Other: Steam Link ($34.99 @ Amazon) Other: Hue 5.25 RGB Color Changing LED Controller ($32.19) Total: $2271.64 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-12 21:46 EDT-0400 Thanks!!
×