Poraf

formatting will not fix a controller.
 
besides that - fixing an iffy HDD controller is generally not worth it, unless it is some exceptionally pricy hard drive.

Yup, it does 🙂 

I doubt it's caused by malware. You can certainly try scanning your PC for malware, but I doubt it's software related. It seems like it's hardware related - probably the logic board, and I'd probably point to the controller as the root fault on the board, but it could be something else on the board that's at fault - cache perhaps, but I don't know if that would cause the drive to just instantly drop off. It might hang, or you would have corrupted data.

I've checked with Crystal Disk Info and this is what shows up right now.

As per usual, the thermal solution doesn't have nearly the amount of fin to keep it chilly.

For hp laptops the plane taking off sound is pretty normal you could try tuning the fans. But without the audio i couldnt tell is it a hardware issue 

Yes, fans make high pitched sounds when running at high RPM. Gaming laptops nowadays especially don't have the best heatsinks, so it'll need to run rather fast to keep cool. 

Have a victus 15 (5800H+3050ti) that's the CPU fan. The GPU fan is a normal thicc boi but the CPU fan is a whimpy one that does the high pitched whine. The thermal solution for the higher spec 5800H is undersized. The CPU is going to be at 85-95C almost all the time, GPU will be nice and comfy around 70-75C though.

$80 is typically the bare minimum recommended for an over-ear can. Takstar Pro82's are the baseline, followed by the Philips SHP9500's. I would stay away from anything "gaming" branded because 99% of it is trash. One of few exceptions in this pricerange is the Cooler Master MH751/752, and that's only because it's based on the Takstar Pro82's. I'd suggest buying something you can live with, and that'll last you at least a year or two. If you just buy some cheap headset you'll be disappointed.
 
Philips SHP9500's are $60 at the moment (normally $80-$100), and I'm frankly annoyed at all of the above replies failing to mention it.
 
If you want something cheaper, over-ear might need to be cut out of the equation. Koss KSC-75's or Porta Pro's (on-ear) are as low as I'd go if I ever forgot IEMs existed.

I come from the world of medical acoustics (Audiology) and not from a consumer side, but yes, Bluetooth does cost more. 

The tech / licensing / code compliance side of things all certainly add costs. However, in order to cut the cord it turns out that you actually have to cut the cord, which also removes power. Now the devices have to be independently powered which includes batteries, chargers, and of course more regulatory compliance. 

More points of failure also tend to bring with it more failure, which adds to a companies back end in the form of warranty and support issues. 

I am sure there are some additional complications that I am not covering, but this should roughly answer the question. 

It entirely depend on your use case.
The difference between an SSD with and without DRAM will be that the drive with DRAM will do burst writes much faster than the DRAMless. But since most people don't need extremely fast burst writes on their drives, I'd say that it doesn't matter for most people. And as you mentioned, DRAMless drives can use SLC caches and HMB to help with these bursts.
 
If you want a comprehensive comparison between the drives, you need to look at more than just "does it have DRAM or not". There are way more things that goes into an SSD than just DRAM, and all of them matters for performance.
 
I don't know about the Teamgroup MP33, but the WD SN570 and Samsung 980 are very similar performance wise, with the WD Blue probably being slightly better. I don't think we know for sure since I can't find good reviews for the SN570, but the SN550 (before it was downgraded) was slightly better than the Samsung 980, so the 570 with its upgraded flash should be even better.
 
If all of them cost the same, then I'd go for the SN570 out of those three. The problem DRAMless drives have had historically is that they weren't that much cheaper than the better drives. For example the Samsung 980 wasn't that much cheaper than the 970 EVO, and yet the EVO performed quite a bit better.
 
I recommend you check out some reviews where they compare the drives you are interested in vs some other drives around the same price point, for example the Samsung 970 EVO (plus).
 
I don't know what prices are like where you live, but here in Sweden the Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB costs the same as the Samsung 980 1TB, and the EVO performs way better in the tests that matters.

Samsung 980 has bigger SLC cache, compared to SN750 and SN550  ... WD drives use up to 12 GB of SLC cache, while Samsung 980 uses 45 / 122 / 160 GB (for 250GB/500GB/1TB models).  It's UP TO because as you fill the drive with data, this SLC maximum size will be shrinked. 
Samsung 980 defaults to 64 MB host memory buffer (minimum 16 MB) , while SN550 defaults to 32 MB (minimum 3 MB) and I don't think SN750 has a controller that's capable of host memory buffer feature. 
 
WD drives will fill the 12 GB SLC cache fast, and then speeds will slow down to around 500 MB/s 
Samsung drives will take longer to fill the cache but then speeds will slow down more, to around 350 MB/s 
 
So overall Samsung's 980 behavior would be better for home users as home users will rarely write let's say more than 50 GB in one shot, so the SLC caches will be unlikely to fill to the point where the speeds would drop to the 300-400 MB/s range, but the probability you'd write 10-12 GB is higher, so you'd notice more often speeds dropping to the 500 MB/s range on a WD drive. 
 
From Tom's hardware review of the 500 GB Samsung 980 - write speed over time : 
 

 
Sequential read speeds are also better on Samsung 980  pretty much anytime except when an application reads 128 KB chunks (WD SN550 seems more optimized for that amount) : 
 

DRAM serves two purposes for an SSD: storing the drive table map and acting as a level one cache.
 
SSDs degrade with writes, so they employ a concept of write leveling to ensure even wear across the drive. However, because of this, data is not always contiguous and the drive needs a map to know where to fetch all the bits for your file(s). DRAM ensures that this table can be quickly accessed. HMB is a feature of NVMe that allows the drive to access a small portion of system RAM for this purpose instead. Using system RAM is nearly as fast, but is more limited, such that only about 50-100GB of the drive can be referenced at once. If you're working with smaller files or not doing a lot of reads, you'll probably never notice the difference, but otherwise, speeds will fall through the floor.
 
SSDs typically use TLC or triple layer cell now, as a trade off between capacity and speed. This means each cell can have three bits written to it, but each successive bit is harder to write than the one before (slower). Particularly as you fill the drive, speeds begin to fall off, so some form of cache is necessary to compensate. DRAM is very fast but limited. SLC cache can be used as well (often in addition to DRAM). That's basically just a reserved portion of the drive that only uses 1 bit per cell, so it doesn't suffer from the slowdown of higher density cells like TLC. It's much slower than DRAM, but still faster than writing to the drive itself. Either DRAM and/or SLC cache can be exhausted and once that happens, speeds will fall off.
 
What it mostly boils down to is how heavily you're using the drive. Most of these things only start to matter when you're doing a heavy amount of reads/writes or doing so over an extended period of time. For small, bursty workloads, it won't matter really if you have DRAM or not.

A dramless SSD will be perfectly fine for your usage. 
 
Pretty much ALL SSDs will use a portion of their memory in pseudo-SLC mode, which makes that portion of memory very fast and also has close to SLC levels endurance. 
So you get very fast write speeds until that SLC cache is filled and then speeds slow down until the drive has a chance to empty the SLC write cache again (minutes after you're done writing, the SSD starts moving data from SLC cache into "long term" slower TLC/QLC memory.
 
HMB - host memory buffer is a technology through which a SSD can "borrow" a small amount of ram from the computer, and work with that amount through pci-e lanes. For example, a typical such memory amount is 64 MB. This is nowhere the full amount that would be needed to keep the whole table of files and where the data of those files is located in memory chips, but segments of that data could be cached in that 64 MB chunk and periodically backed up to flash memory. 
So, you'd get a performance between a drive with dram and a dramless drive. 
 
DRAM helps if you write a lot of small things often and if you use multiple applications that each write to the SSD small amounts of data. 
It doesn't help you boot Windows faster, it doesn't boot applications faster (well, not in any significant way), you have a small benefit when writing lots of data.
 
So I basically say don't worry about it. 
 
I personally went for a Samsung 980 and use it as a boot drive, works perfectly fine. SN750 is a good choice as well  (though keep in mind SN750 SE is dramless, SN 750 has dram). Don't know about teamgroup drive's specs so can't say anything about it.
 
 

If you want to go pure budget and unparalleled bang for the buck go with kph30icl or any variant along with Knock off Grado pads.  Honestly I could be perfectly happy with this setup if I had to suddenly sell everything else.  The first time I did the pad mod on my headphones I did nothing but listen to them for several hours and eventually called a friend of mine and went to his house, handed him the headphones and said here you go.  I was so excited at how affordable and how nostalgic of a sound they gave that I just really wanted someone else to enjoy it as well, and I don't think I could have taken them off any other way.  I got them for christmas presents and a couple people still use them regularly to this day.  They are truly the best $40 you can spend in the audio world (including pads).
 
 

kph30i has pretty mediocre build quality, but it's light, comes with a long warranty (but you may need to pay shipping to get it fixed in the us.... which is a pepehands). How much is the hd560s for you? It's a compelling option as well, imo. He400se might be better in the longer run, especially if you perhaps want to dive in a little deeper, but the hd560s's are solid, they can run on pretty much nothing but sheer will, and measure ruler flat- if you're concerned with listening to music "how the artist intended" or if you're getting into any fields of work related to sound, they could have the edge over the he400se for you. 

I'd rather get the Tygr because much pleasant sound and comfort. The HD560S has crappy soundstage and fatiguing highs. 

Should be more than enough actually

I honestly would spend a bit more. The hifimons honestly are hard to recommend as a starter headphone. And spending a bit more on like a beyerdynamoc tygr or a HD 560s is way worth it for open backs. But if you want a taste the Koss kph30i and Koss KSC 75 are great. I honestly prefer them over the shp9500 and probably even my he4xx which I need my liquid platinum to make sound good.
 
 

What have you got for an amp? I'd just get the Hifimans  honestly, they sound miles better than the others even without an amp

I ran Razer products for a while and didn't encounter any problems except:
 
1. lots of background tasks which may or may not affect you too bad depending on your setup
2. they still keylog

I'm looking for a temporary set of desktop speakers that I'm going to use for a bit of while. I still listen to my headphones most of the time so I don't really need anything that sounds great, just something useable.
If it matters, I prefer a slightly warmer sound, though its not really a priority.
 
Right now my options are: (prices are converted to USD from my local currency),
Logitech Z213 - $21
Logitech Z313 - $26
Logitech Z120 - $10
Edifier R19U - $27
Edifier M1360 - $29
Edifier R12U - $13
 
I haven't decided which one to get at the moment, though I'm leaning towards the cheaper ones, any advice on these are much appreciated, or if you have any other recommendations as well.
 

I'm far from being a hardcore audiophile but I was able to test a friend's Arctis 5 a while back. It's not that they sound horrible but when you begin comparing them with other similarly priced headphones or headsets in terms of sound, they just fall really behind. The sound, to me at least, sounded flat and not the good kind its like the frequencies were all over the place and had little soundstage for a "gaming" headset. I don't want to be too critical but it just has really poor value in terms of sound, which is a shame because I honestly liked how they looked.

This really means nothing. It just means a company spent extra money to get certification confirming it does at least 24 bits 96khz. Which most devices support 24 bits and most people can't hear over 20khz. So it's a sticker used more of a gimmick than something actually materring

You are currently looking at the wrong place of the market for good audio in a headset. Forget about "gaming" headsets and focus on researching actual good audio. Let alone the build and comfort is questionable on all gaming headsets.
 
What I'd recommend are the MH752 from cooler master. They are "gaming" headphones BUT not made up from scratch from a clueless gaming company that makes keyboards or mice. They are reskinned with a really good mic on it for being on a headset. It is removable as well so it wont annoy you at all times. It has got a USB dongle thing that is pretty good and I think better than any motherboard built in audio out there. And for the love of F don't use surround. It doesn't make sense. Anyways. There are other headphone/mic combos out there that will be muuch much better than any headphone from steelseries, logitech, razer etc. The ones I use are the Fidelio X2HR from Philips. They are open back which is much better for music, movies and gaming IMO. They also have a removable 3.5mm cable which can be switched out for a mic/cable combo that can be inserted so you've got a headset. These headphones are built like a tank, super comfy with memory foam ear pads that are HUGE. The sound is really open and has a good imaging for that pin pointy accuracy. I'd rather recommend these over the MH752's since they are closed back and not worth it if you want to upgrade to a headphone DAC/amp later on.