Gorange

That's hardly 300W in reality w/o OC.
with OC, you might be able to push 400W, maybe 450...
 
Yeah, its way less than that. at most 50% of that is pretty accurate, w/o OC
 
Nope, not really.
But you could flip the switch on the back to make the fan run. But, well, its rather loud...
 
You might be able to push the Fan on a bit further back if you set up your case with negative air pressure and mount it on the bottom of your case with fan facing up. (Positive might also work though)...

Not actually sure. I think it's around 20-30% for the other EVGA G2/G3 models. Might be different for the high wattage models though.

I guess your best option is to ask them nicely to replace them with a different PSU because they keep blowing up.
Might cost you a bit of money, but it's better to spend it now than to get it replaced again and run the risk again that the PSU blows up AND risking damage to other components.
 
It's just not worth the risk. Ditch the PSU, accept your loss and get something that your pc deserves.

No, I mean the point where the fan starts spinning.
Basically you force some air through the PSU and do some external/forced cooling.
 
No, fan RPM only has to do with the fan used and the fan controller.
And on higher wattage PSU it is more probable to have a loud, ~3000rpm (or more) fan

I wouldn't have bought that PSU... But just leave it on silent.. 
 
 
This is what happens when you don't listen to people that know what they're talking about..
 
reference

It should spin if it has enough power, so if it's not your power supply then I think the drive may be dead

what mobo? maybe it's too big for the BIOS to detect it

Brand new one because you lose all or most of the warranty with most PSU.

Also the higher wattage EVGA units are really really loud. SO if you get a decently quiet VEGA64, the PSU will be far louder.
 
As for the two PSU; I'd get the straight power because multi rail, thus a bit safer if a MOSFET burns.
Cooler Master V1000 Platinum would be decent as well, though sadly only 2 Rails.

I've bought a couple of used PSUs before, mainly for very cheap builds where it's not worth buying a new one. They both worked for more than a year and I got rid of them as they both developed coil whine.
Buying a PSU, especially one that's been used for mining, isn't an amazing idea. I would definitely go for a new one.

What country?

You don't even need 1600w, and its bad buying a used PSU, better off buying a new one with lower wattage, and as @seon123 said a multi rail one.

A used one is a used one, and no warranty should reflect on the price. But the 1000W CM is more than enough and 1600W is more than twice the power you'll ever need.

What? Just buy a new one then..

Definitely not the G2. A 1600W single rail PSU is just a bad idea to begin with. 
The exact same thing would have happened if they used a G2, as it's also a 1600W single rail PSU. 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/31-power-supplies/944707-why-single-rail-not-better-than-multi-rail.html
 
Look for another ~850-1000W PSU that supports multi rail instead. 

I wouldn't recommend buying a used PSU.

Wow!  Nice!
They look great!  Like entirely different fittings.  It always amazes me what natural cleaners can do on their own.
 
I know I probably could have used a stronger Vinegar solution on my rads, but I was super cautious of vinegar against copper.  And my rads were new, I was just rinsing out flux particles and manufacturing oil.  A lighter solution is fine for something that small.
 
I've heard of Mayhem's Blitz kit, and I looked for it.  But similar to Gorange, the cost to benefit ratio for me, with spanking new EK rads, did not seem worth it.  Plenty of people flush new rads as I did and if they take the time and really do it, they're just fine.  
 
Now, when I do my first maintenance and probably change my color, that will be a different matter.  I wholly intend to use Blitz then.  And I agree it would do Gorange better, if they were able to get it easily.

*UPDATE*
So, I got some baking soda today. Mixed it with water and brushed the fittings. The results were pretty good! Almost like new. I'll flush the radiator a bit more and edit this post with the results! 


 

Okay, I rinsed the rad with vinegar and salt two times. The first time a lot of stuff came out of it, and the vinegar turned dark green/blue. The second time the vinegar came out light green/blue. Sadly I ran out of vinegar... I should really stack up some baking soda and vinegar... Rinsed with some soapy water afterwards and then with water only.
 
@Benjeh I would love to get some, but the shipping is 40 pounds which is twice the price of the kit itself. 

If you occasionally scrub it and it's mostly clean and has a bright copper finish I would stop right there, a few mins at a time is good, if you leave it for long it tends to turn it black since it's then oxidizing/etching the new clean copper.
 
You can add more salt up to having essentially a saturated solution, a 50:50 mix of vinegar and water is a good baseline amount but even a 100% vinegar solution on copper is alright, just make sure you clean it after with soap and water as you want to remove all traces of vinegar and salt. 
 
For the fittings you can make a paste with baking soda to act as a light abrasive cleaner. 
 
 

You can use a vinegar solution on the radiator but there is no need to do so for a long period of time. Do a couple cycles of vinegar soak and rinse to remove anything that may be inside the rad. After once it's cleared up you can do a baking soda wash to neutralize the vinegar before rinsing any remaining baking soda out. A final rinse with distilled will do the job. For the threads and other components you can use a stiff bristle brush and soap to remove any build up. 
 
Take some photos of what you have. 

@Gorange That block looks pretty bad, and that isn’t all corrosion from what I can tell it’s plasticizer from the tubing has leeched out and coated the surfaces. Could have been the tubing they used wasn’t designed for watercooling or severely degraded. 
 
For copper vinegar and a saturated solution of salt does an excellent job just don’t leave it for a very long period of time cause it can cause the copper to oxidize and turn black. With the fittings however ideally you want to avoid acids since nickel is a bit more sensitive. A baking soda mix is a good idea to help with scrubbing away any remaining hard deposits.

SATA 2 is 3 gbps
SATA 3 is 6 gbps
 
Data is transferred with 10:8 encoding meaning for every 8 bits of info, 2 extra bits are for error correction and basically reducing risk of data being corrupted.
 
So sata 2 can actually do 3 gbps = 3000 mbps  * ( 8/10) = 2400 mbps. There's 8 bits in a byte, so we have 2400mbps/8 = 300 mBps or 300 million bytes, which you can write as 300 MB/s or (using the old 1024 bytes in a KB notation) : 286 MiB/s
 
sata 3 can basically do double that, so up to 600 MB/s or 572 MiB/s
 
That's the maximum interface speed, mechanical drives generally can barely reach around 260 MB/s and as  the disk heads move towards the end of the drive, the speed will decrease.
RAID schemes can increase the speeds above limitations of single drives.
 
1gbps network means your speed in and out that NAS will be limited to 1gbps or ~ 125 MiB/s

Yeah, that's what I thought, but decided to ask just in case. Thanks for the confirmation!

nah, without anything. at least i thought higher end asus boards are able to, i don't know which boards can 

No.