Neumann_Joe

Solid non-swappable boards you could go with are Ducky one 2 mini(60%), Ducky one 2 SF(65%). Anne pro 2(60%), Durgod hades(65%). The GMMK compact is a decent 60% board and you have the option to change switches in the future. Keychron K6 is a wireless 65% board and hotswapable. There's are a few budget options on Amazon like RK royal and Epomaker that make some boards, they don't have the best build quality but for the price they'll useable.

Should be fine. The computer wont charge the iPad so it not "sending power to charge it" you need 10 watts to charge an iPad so the computer wont be outputting that. The iPad should come up with a not charging icon over the battery. Its only getting enough power to be able to connect and send data to the computer and iPad. If the screen is off it might charge very slowly but nothing to worry about.

If I remember correctly your compter wont be able to charge the iPad. It doesn't output enough power. Aslong as the battery has enough juice you should be able to transfer your data safely.

You'll need to but some plate mount stabilizers. I normally buy OEM cherry ones or DUROCK.

Here are a few suggestions. Durgod Hades 68 comes in cherry or gateron switches. Asus ROG Falchion comes in cherry reds and is wireless, Keychron K6 only comes with gateron switches but is hot swappable so you can install any switch type. Then there's the Drop ALT but that would be getting close to your max budget of 200.

Why not go with the g502 lightspeed? That way you don't have to change keyboards. The only wireless keyboards Razer make are the blackwidow V3 pro and the Pro Type, either have the side macro keys. The only others I can think of off the top of my head that are wireless and have side macros are the g613 from Logitech and the Corsairs K57. But the K57 isn't mechanical.

I own both so i might be able to help answer some questions. The main differences between those boards is NK65 entry and aluminum is they are 65% and the Ctrl is a 87%. Drop does make the Drop ALT which is a 65% board. NK65 has south faced LEDs vs the CTRL's/ALT's North faced. If you care about backlit keycaps they won't work well with the NK65. As they will be dim. NK65 supports 5 pin switches and the Drop boards do not. If you go with the kailh box whites you don't need to worry. Both have plate mount stabs so both are easily removable to swap out or relube. This is must on the drop boards as their stabs rattle to much. Once lubed they sound great. I normally use krytox 205g0 for my stabs. I'm probably not he best to ask about clicky switches as I live tactile and linear switches more. One thing I do know is if your going to lube clicky or tactile switches you have to make sure not to get to much lube on the legs of the stem as that will remove clicky sound and make them feel more linear. And a good way to find different switches is to get a switch tester so you can try different ones.

I know you said you didn't want a screw sip top but I've been using this one and it hasn't leaked yet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4ZZ8XR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't had any disconnects with my G Pro Superlight, Viper ultimate, G305 or Model O wireless since owning them. If the G305 fits your play style cant beat the price and with a few mods you can make it pretty light. Also got the Razer Orochi V2 that just came out. I haven't used one yet but people seem to love it. For wired mice there are a ton but my favorites are the Model O and Razer Viper. Other cheap options are the G203 or G hero.

Cool and since it has a remove cable you can always change it out for a different color or a coiled one in the future.

If your set on getting a Razer board then it comes down to form factor. If you can live without arrow keys, numpad, functions keys go with the mini. If you need those constantly there go with the Elite. Elite also has dedicated media controls which come in handy. I personally could never get use to using a function layer for my arrows keys that why I use a 65% board. If you go with the Elite I'd also grab a set their PBT keycaps since it doesn't come with them.

I never had a problem with iCue and Aura both being installed. Depending on your motherboard it might be compatible with iCue and you can set the lighting in there as well. That's what I did on my machine but I cant remember if you get the same RGB effects. I set it to blue forget about it.

I bought this lid and it works well on both sized water bottles. Sendestar Spout Lid

If your already working as IT support I'd skip A+. Unless your job will pay for it. I do know if your looking at any government agencies positions they required to pass SEC+. Or at least in DOD it is required. For my department we are given 6 months to pass the test and they pay for it. If your looking for online classes or books I recommend Mike Meyers and Jason Dion. I thought their were very helpful.

That's what I'd do if I looking to game.