Koyaiba

No, the acrylic stand doesn't grip and she always leaning backwards. I wish I can buy another stand to fix this

Sorry for the 6 days late reply. So I determined it as "probably the software that causing XMB button doesn't work" is because, I have replaced 2 new ribbons before that and now I have the 3rd one in and hold the ribbon in place with a tape to make sure it is connected properly. But the XMB button still doesn't work properly sometimes. Speaking of other possible hardware problem, I suspected that once I took out the battery, the system will ask me to set the time again rather than just restore the time itself. Not sure this could be the culprit.

Model: PSP-3006 (04g) OFW: 6.61 CFW: 6.61 PRO-C So long time ago I started to fiddle with my own PSP and upgraded its official firmware to 6.61 released by Sony official website (now it has been taken down and replaced with Sony's support page), then downloaded the 6.61 PRO-C custom firmware and installed it. After a certain period I noticed Home button doesn't work when I want to quit the game, so I assumed it might be caused by the degraded ribbon so I bought and replaced one by myself. At first it works properly for a period, like over 3 months span but soon it fails to work again. So I ended up order another one and replaced on it. But now without me disassembling and reassembling the Home button still doesn't work sometimes, it works somehow after I put it into hibernate mode and wake it up, completely turn off and on, uninstall CFW and install CFW once again, and even take out the battery and put it back again to boot it up. I have never encountered such problem when I was using 6.60 OFW and 6.60 PRO-B2 CFW, and I've tried with several 6.61's CFW I could find from forum related to PSP modding, could it be the 6.61 OFW bug?

I wish I can explain I didn't prioritize my gaming chair and graphic card choice because I won them, so don't complain me about stuffing RTX3060Ti on a H81-M chipset... And I'm still waiting for my FSP PSU back from RMA which has been almost a month passed from the day I sent it to so I decide to leave the current PSU hanging outside I didn't intentionally make my desk that messy btw, just too busy and lazy to organise everything

We are going brutal if the normal method doesn't work Open the location of the process End the task Delete the program immediately If this method doesn't work you might have to delete it brutally under safe mode

Does it still running after restarting your PC?

I think you might need a few tries to rearrange this. Make 2 as your main display, and since your TV is 4th display, the remains are pretty easy to figure out. You can adjust the arrangement by dragging them in case you don't know.

Yes. I'm afraid no, the resolution is usually being set in TV's firmware. You can only set it at 768p and below.

What is your TV model? And what is the maximum resolution setting you can get for your TV? If your TV model support max resolution lower than your desktop monitor of course it will be smaller, just like the settings shown.

I have a Dell Vostro 200S, it is a PC without doing any modification like changing CPU, adding GPU, or adding more RAM. This PC had a bloated capacitor on board when I discovered it in my friend's hostel, so I asked my friend to solder a same model of capacitor from another broken AMD motherboard which had been struck by lightning. Yes, it does boot, but you might need a bit of luck to get it booted. First time I let the power on for like nearly half an hour until the power button turns blue, and if I plugged in the front USB panel's pin, the light will become orange. Sometimes it can boot instantly after being switched on, but sometimes not. So the only solution is to keep the power on even not in use to avoid the hassle of luck. When it can be booted, I tried to flash the BIOS once again using the file supplied from official website, but seems no luck. Format to another OS seems doesn't work too. I saw that it has a clock warning, but I don't think the battery is the cause of RNG booting. I'm going to sell this PC because I want to upgrade my main PC to 4th Gen i5 instead of keep using Q9500 which is getting hotter and hotter during idling, but I want to gain as much value as possible, by at least making it work. Can somebody help me to figure out the problem? Specs: Intel Pentium E2200 2GB DDR2 (1GB x2) WD Caviar Blue 80GB 7200RPM HDD Intel G33 Express (Manufactured by Foxconn) What's causing Yellow button: Slot in an R7 240 GPU Connect front USB What's the last success boot situation: Connected it to extension which directly connected to wall plug Boot without VGA plugged in Boot without Keyboard plugged in Boot without any USB plugged in Wait for at least 15 minutes to let the power button turns blue Doing nothing, left everything plugged (Happens randomly)

yeah i decided to swap my 500GB HDD with 480GB SSD since I just do some casual meme video and minor gameplay edits that one will come in first before I can make sure my laptop can fit that 120GB m.2 SSD

thanks for your help on looking for the m.2 ssd just now I tried to reseat the cable between motherboard and the m.2 ssd controller, and my laptop now has no problem with booting speed, but maybe a swap of ssd needed, a bit worry if the physical space is available for my laptop to upgrade...

about 50usd

HDD all green SSD's Interface CRC Count in attention status

seems no problem so far for hdd also scanned ssd while it was detected after wake up from sleep state

I decided to change my screen panel while fixing the screen hinge with the new IPS panel (NV156FHM.N41) in. After then my 24GB m.2 SSD shows up occasionally, and I don't know it is the side effect or not, the entire PC is super slow from sleep state, cold and warm boot which didn't happen before I format my laptop. Did the screen panel draws too much power?? Or maybe the m.2 SSD controller is bad? Model: Asus Transformerbook TP500LB (8GB ram added, modded screen panel from TN to IPS)

Like normal takes 5~6 secs but mine takes 10 secs, sometimes may longer

This is my first time posting my issues on any forum and also this forum... I have a ancient GIGABYTE GA-G31M-ES2L motherboard, with F10 firmware flashed. t is powered by a Corsair 450W 80plus, with Intel Core2Quad Q8400, 2x2GB Kingston 667MHz DDR2 RAM, a TPLink Wireless card and a GIGABYTE GT740M 2GB GDDR5 graphics card. On the storage it is running on a Kingston A400 240GB SSD and WD Caviar Blue 1TB 7200rpm HDD. The PSU also powering 3 CoolerMaster Sickle Flow 120 chasis fan (Actually there are 4 fans, I can't remember one of the fan model so I just ignored it, the ignored chasis fan I just let it disconnected from power since my PC won't boot or freeze at BIOS as I hooked up to my fan controller.) I just roughly calculated it by using CoolerMaster's Power Supply Calculator and here is my result: But what I wonder is why the BIOS takes such a long time even I skipped disk check or other options that will possibly slow down the POST? I do even have the power to overclock my CPU from 2.66GHz way up to 3.2GHz so I think there is a lot of power there... Maybe firmware is the possible reason that causing the slow down effect?