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Ogreclock

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    EVGA Z87 FTW
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws X 16GB DDR3
  • GPU
    EVGA 1080 Ti SC2
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
  • Storage
    256GB Corsair Force SSD; 2TB Toshiba HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair HX750
  • Display(s)
    2x ASUS VN248H-P
  • Cooling
    be quiet! Dark Rock 3
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 MK.2
  • Mouse
    Corsair
  • Sound
    SteelSeries Arctis 3
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Professional

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Ogreclock's Achievements

  1. Agreed. At least the 30 series is right around the corner. Thank you for your time and help, it is much appreciated!
  2. Just tried resetting the CMOS. Followed the MOBO manual on the process. Held DEL to try and access bios and this popped up. Not looking too promising.
  3. We have tried most of these that apply: 1: It is an X570 Board with the 3rd gen Ryzen 2: I walked him through the process and I am sure that we plugged everything in on the motherboard, drives, and GPU. 3: We have made sure and even tested with another cable 4: PSU is good for the components in this system 5: Monitor was working before with the old computer, and even tried it with the integrated graphics on his old 7700k 6: New CPU doesn't have integrated graphics, GPU is the only option. 7: All connections are in, we just double checked it. 8: RAM is lighting up splendidly, CPU was seated properly, GPU is in properly as well. 9: No debug displays 10: No speakers attached 11: Havent tried that. Would we need to on a brand new machine? Haven't even been able to install windows, let alone get to the BIOS. 12: GPU seems to be the main issue, we will try with one stick of RAM 13: GPU seems to be the main issue. 14: No other hardware to test the GPU in, might take it to Best Buy to test it on one of their benches. 15: RAM is compatible, DDR4 3200MHz Hopefully this helps shed light on the problem.
  4. Hey all, So a bit of background, my friend moved to Alaska and had his computer shipped to him from NY. Long story short United Airlines drop kicked his PC from the second story of a building (not actually, but that's about what it looked like). So the most notable damage was the bottom plastic part of the main PCIe slot on the motherboard was practically ripped off, but miraculously still displayed despite it looking like an artifacted mess and sagging. So he recently went to Best Buy and got an entirely new system minus the GPU, we got it all built and the GPU is not displaying anything. From the looks of the card, there is no evidence of damage on the card from the shipping fiasco, and it displayed on the old computer with the old busted motherboard. The GPU does power on and the fans spin, and the monitor does pick up a signal from the cards HDMI port, just nothing displays. Computer stays powered on. I'm at a loss for what might be going on. Here are the specs of the new system: Ryzen 7 3700X ASUS TUF X570-Plus Gigabyte 1080 (unsure of the model, pulled from his old prebuilt from iBuyPower. Looks like a windforce model?) Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200MHz 2x8GB EVGA 600w 80 Plus Silver (non-modular) ADATA SP600 256GB SSD (pulled from his old prebuilt) Sandisk 1TB SSD (fresh out of the box) Any help would be appreciated.
  5. Great info! I'm also a big fan of both MSI and EVGA, hence me taking this issue to a forum lol. I wasn't able to find too many reviews of the EVGA board, so comparing the two are kind of difficult. Thank you for your help!
  6. Phanteks just released their new P600s ($149.99) case which looks really good. I would also recommend be quiet!'s cases as they're pretty good too.
  7. Hey everyone, I'm looking into building an up-to-date rig, and could use some pointers on things to look out for that would make a substantial difference in choosing one motherboard over another. The mobos that I've chosen are already in the title, but in case you didn't see them, here they are: MSI Z390 MEG ACE - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144210&ignorebbr=1 EVGA Z390 FTW - https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188197&ignorebbr=1 The differences I've picked out so far is that the ACE has more USB ports, wifi, gold-plated audio ports (ooh fancy), FROZR M.2 cooling, and some more fan headers. When it comes to motherboards my knowledge is limited, so any pointers regarding some things I missed would be greatly appreciated!
  8. Thank you for the info! I know upping the audio aspect of the experience in movies and games can get very expensive, and I don't want to buy something just to find out I don't notice any difference, so knowing what I'm looking for will have a much better result.
  9. I have already read it, but I would like some examples of noticeable differences in sound quality so I can understand it with my caveman brain Thank you for the recommendation though, the article is informative but doesn't really touch on examples but rather the technical aspects, unless I missed something.
  10. Hey everyone, For the sake of keeping the title as short as possible, I know DACs aren't the only thing to consider when thinking of higher quality audio. My question is: what are some examples of the jump in audio quality when applied to gaming (footstep clarity, gunshots, etc.), music (obvious overall quality in sound), or movies (again, obvious overall quality with some sound effects coming to life more). Many thanks P.S. I'm using onboard audio with Steelseries Arctis 3s, so higher quality sound is a foreign concept nor do I know any technical details.
  11. Unfortunately upgrading to a different graphics card is much easier than the Motherboard, CPU and RAM. Mobo, CPU and RAM will need to be upgraded together, but luckily prices for DDR4 have dropped from their outrageous prices a few months back. I would figure getting a lower end Mobo, 16GB DDR4, and maybe a Ryzen 5 2600 would run about $400. I'm unfamiliar with the prices of Intel's 8th and 9th gen i5 processors, but when it comes to tight budgets, ryzen is a good go-to.
  12. I would recommend the Coolermaster MB511 as a nice looking budget case. Goes for $50 I think, it also has an RGB counterpart that goes for $60 on sale. I would also take a look at the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M. It goes for $90 on sale ($80 after a $10 mail-in rebate). Lots of room and a nice plain black case if you're not looking for anything too flashy. It also has a white and black counterpart that is more expensive but also comes with 2 Halos RGB fan frames in the front.
  13. Right. The reason I was considering the H150i is just if I wanted to overclock later on. Thanks for the insight!
  14. When it comes to cooling I would prefer to go overkill just to keep components in better shape. Thank you for the insight, it helps a lot!
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