Paint Stick

I second this. I tried a couple mechanical KB's but really like the k55. while not mechanical, its great for typing as well as games.

A good PSU will save you headaches down the road. brand name psu, spend a little bit of money on it, read the reveiws on it. you dont want a piece of junk from china. Part of the PSU's job which wasnt touched on here, is the the amps per cable, is more important than watts. the higher the amp rating the better. the last thing you want is a brown out inside the case. the other thing to keep in mind is how well does the PSU filter line noise? and how does it handle inconsistancies in power input? Outlets typically put out 100-130 volts, and are known to bounce around. How well your PSU compensates for this will determine how well your computer performs. For instance when I first got into computers around 2000, I would burn up hard drives in a matter of months... I swapped the PSU, and while the computer become more stable, I was still experiencing hardware failures at an alarming - typically hard drives... I then bought a line conditioner - like a UPS but without the batteries, that solved the problem. The moral of the story is that while its easy to just gloss over the PSU, having a quality PSU can mean the difference between stable and long term functionality, and unstable and failing hardware.

I was in a similar situation 3 years ago when I migrated to a new case. after almost 15 years in the same set of highly modified cases (Inwin Q500's) I decided a new case was in order. I spent MONTHS on case research lol. One of the biggest issues for me was the ability to move the case fairly easily as full towers can easily tip the scales at 80+ lbs. Having a window to look at me crappy cable management skills wasnt important. Excellent cooling, lots of HDD space, and roomy.. I settled on a Cooler Master Storm Trooper in black... My only modification to the case was painting the front removeable metal mesh red... I should point out that I have limited experience with cases but both my cases are full towers. My Inwins used to sit on the floor. the trooper sits on my desk, it has a window - which faces away from me, and I have no fancy lights inside. lol Id prefer a solid side panel, however it came with the window so whatever lol Over all I am very happy with the case, and am contemplating getting a white one for my next build.

Id geuss something isnt grounded properly

https://fox4kc.com/2018/10/31/family-traumatized-after-home-monitoring-system-hacked-by-stranger/ Just posted on drudge, Thats just freaky!

I have been into PC gaming for over 15 years, and always ran on air. After watching several videos on YT regarding water cooling, I dont see how it is superior to air. While it takes awhile for water to warm up, it takes awhile for water to cool down. So the temps stay higher longer, vs air, where you have a spike in temps but it also cools way faster when no longer in use. So how is water cooling better? Also requires fans to cool the radiators which pretty much eliminates the whole 'silent' aspect of the cooling system...

His failure was using un-insulated copper tubing in the room. Also, how could does it get where he lives? For instance if your in a snowy region using insulated pipe, running the radiator outside could be a real winner.

Ok so its an internal hard drive, a usb adaptor wont work unless the adaptor has an external power source. I believe, USB is limited to 5volts (I could be wrong) in order to spin up the platters, it needs 12 volts. If the drive is already unstable, attampting to make it read write large amounts of data could kill it. Can you try using a different version of windows from a friends computer? say windows 7, or even xp? I never liked those auto repair things M$ brought in as I dont know what its doing or what its changing... Given that your getting this error at boot leads me to believe that windows 10 is attempting to access the drive (for whatever reason) and cant, kicking back this error. You COULD try this... but make sure your grounded to your case: Plug in the data cable, internally, wait to boot to windows, and THEN plug in the power... I would go this route as it would help isolate your motherboard from a sudden draw... that might work... It should show up as new hardware found... go to device manager and see if its there.

(Windows 7) If you right click on my computer on your desktop > manage> Disk/storage (on the left) this will display all drives and partitions on your computer. This is important because windows 7 creates a 100 megabyte hidden partition of drive 0. this partition contains all your boot parameters, so while formatting the drive will wipe the contents of the visible stuff, the boot partition will still exist. Delete, both partitions on the new drive, and select apply. Then create a new partition and format it. This will ensure that if anything wierd happens, your computer wont attempt to boot from the 500GB.

From their FAQ: Q: Is Bitcoin Payment Secure? How do I know I can trust it?A: Bitcoin system has a strong security track record, and the Bitcoin network is probably the biggest distributed computing project in the world. Also, we work under IRS and US federal law and all the transactions trough our platform are centralized with the IRS so they can be taxed. um... that doesnt even make sense lol

I redact my comment lol

So on top of buying the product, and them selling/collecting/storing forever, all your data, you have to pay them for that 'privelege'? Cant you just set up a self hosted website, with a user name and PWD so that you can log in via any device and veiw your cameras?

I used a router to round the edges, and then a ryobi 5" orbital sanded with 220 grit to sand the edges and top prior to coating, vacuum, then a tac rag, then coat. the glaze coat stuff is AMAZING to work with and works really well with a finishing trowel -NOT a grout trowel I should point out, that theres only (2) poles holding up this desk, One on each end. I used 3" screws on the back side of the 2x4's ti attach the poles, and then, because the base of the poles are tapered outward with a ring, I screwed the poles to the floor with 3" screws to make sure the poles cant get accidentally kicked out Total cost for the desk: $250 (2 sheets of cabinet grade plywood: $100 2 gallons of GlazeCoat: $140, and 5, 10' long 2x4's $10) Total time: about 4 days, after work. maybe 16hrs total.

I built my own desk after looking at how much larger desks cost, and how cheaply theyre made. My desk is a corner desk, the 'short' side is 5'x 30" the long side is 10.5'x30" (30 inches deep) I used 2x4's screwed to the studs, then made a 'frame' 28" off the floor, and then set cabinet grade plywood on top (I bought at home depot - they cut it to my specs, I brought a water bottle with me to find the sheets I wanted (wet a corner to see how itll look with sealer) So I set up the desk, and for the inside right angle where you sit, I cut a piece of the plywood, used a biscuit jointer and wood glue and may the 90* an angle about 18" long. For supports under the desk, I used garbage picked wood poles I stripped and sealed with poly. For the top, I used GlazeCoat from Lowes, 2 coats... so my desk has the same finish as a bar. I didnt stain the wood at all, just added the glazecoat... I sorta screwed it up when I made it, as I didnt push the top back into the corner but that actually worked out well as the glazecoat 'glued' the top to the frame. I finished off the outside of the 2x4's with some garbage picked base trim, stabled to the 2x4's For the cut outs to run wires, (I later found a better solution at homedepot, but I used wooden switch plate covers, modifiied to fit over the holes I made, and put them in place price to glaze coating... I cut 5" pieces off the one extra pole I had and made legs, and then repurposed a solid oak shelf to hold my monitors, so that sit above the desk surface. The result is a desk that has NO visible fasteners, and is solid as a rock....

I googled the game, it doesnt appear to be 'that' intense....