RAS_3885

At normal viewing distances for a computer monitor the pixel density of 1080p on a 32 inch monitor is pretty low, so the image just doesn't look very crisp. For me, 1080p is good up to about 24 inch screens. Above that I'd switch to 1440p. 32/34+ inch 16:9 I'd go 4k.

Could be from the start/stop scheme or could just be the fan dying. You'll never be able to quantify a shortened life span, if any, from starting and stopping a CPU fan (or any other PC fan for that matter). THEORETICALLY there should be a little more wear when it first spins up, but again, you'll never be able to say it caused early failure or not.
 
Regardless, it's a silly control strategy for a CPU fan. When I had a motherboard that support SpeedFan I spent entirely too much time trying to come up with clever strategies to stop fans (case, CPU, GPU) until certain temp thresholds. Setting large hysteresis values to prevent the fan cycling on/off all the time as CPU temps fluctuated normally. All in the name of keeping it as quiet as possible. Fun to mess around with, but totally unnecessary and performed worse.
 
In the end, just setting constant minimum RPM that's acceptable for noise and letting it linearly ramp up was almost always better.

Thank you, i'm glad to know its acting completely normal, and its not dying, preciate you helping me out. @RAS_3885

With Ryzen, you want to monitor frequency, not temperature. The way the boost algorithm works, they'll stay between about 75 and 85C when under load, and fluctuate frequency and voltage in order to keep it in that range. You'll see frequency dropping before you see your temps getting too high.
 
And yes, 75C is fine on those CPUs. TJMax is ~100C (I forget the exact number), and the general rule of thumb is you want to keep your load temp in your workloads ~10C+ below TJMax. Basically, 90C and below is more fine for those chips. 

If you have a bunch of desktop icons you can also F11 full screen a dead pixel test website (the black screen portion) and hide the taskbar. Then just ALT-TAB to the game.

Best is debatable but the quickest would be a black wallpaper with the taskbar hidden.

Looks like it will be quite the project!
 
Initially I'd say option 1 (top left on your drawing) would be my first choice since it affords the CPU radiator fresh air. It's unclear, however, what the front case structure will look like with regards to vents/openings for air to enter. Are both sides going to be mesh, or just the right side as labelled? That option also give the GPU a good supply of fresh air while moving everything left-to-right smoothly.
 
Option 3 would be my least preferred since I think the radiator in that configuration would hinder smooth airflow through the case more than necessary and would be more prone to creating turbulent pockets of hot air.
 
Your penmanship is nice BTW 🙂 Quite the nice "napkin sketch".

You presumably have a cooler in your system now, right? Even just setting it on top of the CPU without mounting hardware would be better than nothing at all.

You presumably have a cooler in your system now, right? Even just setting it on top of the CPU without mounting hardware would be better than nothing at all.

If I understand correctly, all components are the same except motherboard, which you've swapped for a new one that's same model as old one. Correct?
 
if so, yes, you should be able to just boot right up with your hard drive. I was in the same situation with an old Dell laptop. Motherboard died, swapped just the motherboard, and everything booted up fine.

The Arctic fans draw 0.2A according to the product page, and I'd be surprised if the cooler master fan draws more than 0.4A. Basically, you should be able to drive all 4 fans off a single header. 

That's definitely twice as fast! Thanks!

I'd wrap the bare wire in some electrical tape or shrink-wrap, but functionally it's fine. No different than an off-the-shelf fan splitter... if a bit more janky 🙂 
 
Motherboard headers are typically rated for up to 1 amp, so two fans are fine.

I see the same behavior. There's a lot going on behind the scene with GPU Boost so fluctuations are normal.

Yep, that's coil whine. It's caused by the electrical components physically vibrating and can take on all sorts of different sounds.

Yep, that's coil whine. It's caused by the electrical components physically vibrating and can take on all sorts of different sounds.

Yep, that's coil whine. It's caused by the electrical components physically vibrating and can take on all sorts of different sounds.

Yep, that's coil whine. It's caused by the electrical components physically vibrating and can take on all sorts of different sounds.

I'd be seeking a return and refund. Not worth the headache IMO.

Perhaps you could try installing Steam on the same disk as your operating system, if you haven't already tried that?

4 discreet monitors is the limit due to number of output ports.
 
Splitters would just duplicate the signal to another monitor but will not provide an additional discreet screen.

What do you mean when you say it's causing them to ground? You want all components to be grounded.

What do you mean when you say it's causing them to ground? You want all components to be grounded.

You want smooth airflow from one side of the case to the other without fighting physics too much. Front-to-back or bottom-to-top are typically ideal.
 
Do you have a picture or drawing of what you're intending? Might be easier to make some suggestions with a visual to go off of. Napkin sketches acceptable 🙂 

Depending on that particular card's thermals and the case airflow low 80s could be reasonable. Trending high, but not danger territory. At the end of the day, the mini's heatsink is just physically smaller than most cards, so running hotter is expected.
 
If the thermal paste is totally dried you'll see an improvement with fresh paste and cleaning the fan/heatsink while it's apart. I'd say 5-10 C improvement realistically depending on how bad it is. Probably closer to the 5 number.