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Everything posted by RAS_3885

  1. If a program reinstall doesn't work you can try rolling back the drivers to the last one that didn't cause the issue. Might be a driver problem.
  2. If there is not BIOS option to disable the discrete one they you could certainly try.
  3. There may be an option in the BIOS to enable/disable discrete GPUs. HP product page also says the integrated graphics is unavailable when a stand alone card is configured, so HP may block it from being used. You'll have to poke around and see.
  4. The above is good for starting, but I wouldn't say it's the final determination of a stable clock. I was able to get +100 core and +675 memory in running Valley for 30+ minutes without crashing. Crashed in 10 minutes playing GTA V. I think you need varied workload to really stress an overclock before saying it's stable. Also would only crash quickly at certain parts of the map; others would run for longer without crashing. Temps were always below 70 C. Turns out the core clock is what was most sensitive in my case and anything over +75 core would crash after 10-15 minutes gaming. Additionally, I saw essentially no FPS gains above +300 memory using Valley and free cam. Backed off to +275 memory and kept it there.
  5. Are your GPU drivers up to date? Did you try reinstalling the offending programs?
  6. That could be it. Will it kill your CPU in 8 years instead of 10? I don't know. Even locked to max frequency and voltage unless the CPU is actively doing something intensive it's not really pulling that much power or generating a ton of heat. My opinion is that for a general use machine you might as well leave the power saving stuff on. Overclocks on the edge of stability might benefit from leaving the CPU in a high power state at all times.
  7. Check using something like HWInfo64. At least with my Intel chip when overclocked the task manager is all sorts of bugged. When you overclocked did you turn off any of the auto-voltage reduction/power saving features? I don't know what they're called for AMD, but on Intel stuff like turbo boost or EIST (Intel speed step) being disabled will keep the chip at the max overclock frequency and voltage.
  8. You can't really make the comparison directly to consoles, since games designed for those only have to work on one set of hardware. Optimizations, such as multi-core usage, can be maximized because the developers know EXACTLY what it will run on. PC games (either PC only or console ports) have to work on a HUGE variety of hardware, so games designed broadly to support 8+ cores will take a lot longer to happen. I also think a 3900X is overkill for what you are planning to use it for; a 3700X would suit you very nicely for the next few years.
  9. As long as the fans still kick on under load like they are supposed to you're good. I have AB set to open minimized when Windows loads anyways; might be a solution for you.
  10. Most cards these days have a zero fan speed mode when under a certain temp. You might be right on that threshold with whatever the computer is doing, causing the fans to kick on and off like that. Should be independent of Afterburner since the card's BIOS controls fan speed unless overridden by software controls. When you open Afterburner is the fan still set to auto? With Afterburner open do you keep using your computer as you were before, or do you watch AB to see fan behavior? You might be reducing the load enough if you're just watching AB for the temp to stay below the zero fan speed threshold temp.
  11. As in your Microsoft account password? The last Windows update I got asked me to log into my Windows account. I just clicked skip.
  12. On my MSI 1080 OC scanner only gave me something like +11 core clock (mind you that's on top of what MSI did from the factory). I didn't mess with the memory. I also don't really care to mess much with manual overclock, but if I recall I could only get around +100 or +125 before it would start crashing more often than not. Memory was maybe +100 as well before it would start crashing. Don't think my card won the silicon lottery, but I'm fine with that.
  13. OC Scanner only does the core clock. Memory still has to be done manually if desired.
  14. Hi, and welcome to the form. I don't think you can go wrong with either option. If you like the look of the cheaper one it seems like a pretty straightforward choice. Depending on where you order it from you can always return it if it doesn't work or is poor quality. Even though it's shorter it still supports the GPU 75 percent of the way, which is sufficient for it's intended use. Looks like that card comes with a support bracket. Based on quick Amazon search the reviews on it's effectiveness is mixed. Either way, you may just want to see how bad the sag actually is once you get everything built, then add a different support bracket if necessary. Unless you're also going for looks with it, then have at it!
  15. Looks to be very similar and should work equally well.
  16. Having the pump connected to the CPU pump header is correct. Fans can go to whatever header they can reach. You don't need to have anything plugged into the CPU fan header as long as the motherboard isn't giving you a CPU fan error and preventing you from booting. If it does, then you either need to disable monitoring of that fan header (not all boards allow this) or plug something in. If no fans reach that header then you will either need to move the fans or use a fan cable extention. It doesn't sound like you really have any issues if your temps are good and the computer is performing as expected. If the fan noise really bothers you your options are custom fan curve or buying quieter fans. Did you double-check the fan curve settings (and that they are set to PWM control) in the BIOS? Do that to make sure the fans are actually being speed controlled and aren't just running full speed all the time.
  17. Don't know since I don't use water cooling. If I had to guess I would say the pump should go into the CPU fan header (some motherboards have dedicated pump header) and the radiator fans would go to either a second CPU fan header (some boards have two) or a case/chassis/aux fan header. You can use a splitter to connect two fans to one header if desired. Since I don't know what you consider loud vs. loud loud I'm going to assume they are simply not the most quite fans in the world and operating as expected. They should ramps down when no system load is present though, so might want to check the fan curve again in the BIOS.
  18. Welcome, and thanks for contributing!!! If you haven't yet check out the F@H sub-form you should head over there. https://linustechtips.com/main/forum/37-foldinghome-boinc-and-coin-mining/ We're prepping for another folding event to help the COVID-19 research. Check out the first pinned topic in the sub-form if you want to join.
  19. I don't know about pump speed since I don't use water cooling. Based on your temps I'd say whatever you're running at is sufficient. Are the fans ramping up and down as system load changes?
  20. Chump checking in here then... I'm more than happy to contribute (when I can get work units lol)
  21. Are the fans you're having issues with PWM (4-pin connector) fans? Are the motherboard fan headers they are plugged into set to PWM control (as opposed to voltage control)? What brand of fans are they? When you say they are running high speed and are loud... Is this at all times or only under load? Do they ramp up/down in speed as load on the system changes? What are your temps under load? If the screen shot above IS under load on the CPU, then your temps are excellent and your cooling solution is working well.
  22. Once you get rid of the extra software let's see if you still get crashes. HWMonitor as suggested above has the ability to log min/max temps. You can even keep it open while running some form of stress test to see the temps update live. That way even if it does crash you will at least know the ballpark temps prior.
  23. Take a step back. Get rid of all the extraneous software and see what your temps are. The motherboard BIOS can control the case and CPU fans while the GPU BIOS will control the GPU fans (even without Afterburner installed). Reset fan curves for everything in the BIOS to default. Now, what are you temps? Is the noise acceptable? You still haven't really said what you think your problem is other than you have a lot of software that can overlap with fan control. For context... I have an MSI board and while their Command Center software allowed tweaking stuff like fan curves, it was always a bit buggy and never better than just going through the BIOS directly. I got rid of it. Now I just have default CPU fan curve via BIOS, case fans locked to 50 percent via BIOS, and only use Afterburner for the voltage/power limits. Fan curve default.