napper_tapper

Unfortunately the thing is just over three years old and TCL only give a 24 month warranty, so RMA not available. I'll reach out to TCL technical support and see if they have a local technician who could check it out.

Hi all, Using a TCL 55". I got into the service menu by highlighting the contrast option and entering 9735 on the remote and it gives this information (don't know if it helps at all): SW NO: V8-R851T02-LF1V363.015392 Project Name: 55P715K Panel Name: UD_ST5461D12_4_TCONLESS SIACP Version: 10.1 C4p Version: Null It's got an issue where almost the whole screen has a mesh pattern over it, it's really hard to make it out but it's like a grid pattern with X's inside the grid. I've tried googling this and can't find anything and it's really difficult to take a picture of it because the mesh is so small. I have a set of calibrated Mitutoyo vernier callipers and they appear to be maybe 0.5mm wide. The mesh/ grid covers almost the entire screen except around the perimeter, there's an approx. 5.0mm gap between the borders of the mesh and the borders of the screen. The image in the clear border area is perfectly normal in terms of appearance. Anyone have a clue what has happened and if it can be fixed or whether the TV is now broken? Troubleshooting already done: Factory reset from normal menu = didn't fix, Factory reset from service menu = didn't fix, Tried cleaning and re-installing GPU drivers = didn't fix, Tried brand new 8K HDMI cable (instead of DP) = didn't fix, Tried brank new DP cable = didn't fix, Tried a different GPU = didn't fix, Tried a different HDMI input = didn't fix, Tried a different PC into all three HDMI inputs = didn't fix.

RIP sorry didn't log back on until now and didn't realise I messed up that pic so bad. It was supposed to show that it only cleared the case fans and NZXT USB hub by millimetres. It was tighter than a ducks butthole inside the case.

To be honest I didn't think starting out that I would have used the stock cooler for so long. It works pretty good though and handles the small overclock I made on the CPU just fine.

Whoopsies I meant to type 2080 Ti, my bad. Also, for the record: I love tentacle porn.

Original build thread: here Well I upgraded from the Palit RTX 2090 Ti to an MSI RTX 3090 SUPRIM X. I have had an extremely busy time since I first built my PC and I have went from wanting to custom water loop my first rig to now I am just upgrading the GPU as a stop-gap until I have the spare time and consummate number of F's to devote to a whole new build. Just thought I would show you how it looks now. The only issue that I had was that the 2080 Ti only needed one PCIe 8-pin to double 8-pin cable and I couldn't be bothered re-doing my back-end cable management so I just stuck another cable in through the cable slot and stuffed the excess cable into the cavity. Forgive my tragic cable management in the front but I just wanted it done. Another small issue is that the NZXT USB hub I had didn't have anywhere to go so I pushed it up against the back of the fan cage and it cleared the card by a few millimetres. Will do a benchmark on UserBenchmark to see how much better the 3090 is over my 2080 Ti.

In all honesty the most intensive thing I would be doing is rendering in AutoCAD or REVIT, I sometimes do some video editing but it's very seldom now that I can just pay people on Fiverr.

Well I think you are both right that I should just wait for the 4000 series processors to drop, I assume that the motherboard I picked would need to be changed up at the same time to make the best use of them? I really, really like the look of the Samsung drives, I will definitely switch those in instead. At these speeds is there a point to putting them into RAID?

Budget (including currency): £7,500 (max.) Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: nothing particularly intensive Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Well, the new RTX 3000 series cards have got my juices going. I was actually going to upgrade from my X470 build to X570 when the ASRock Aqua boards were launched but I couldn't get one, I didn't realise they were only 1,000 of them made worldwide! This won't be getting built until December as most of the budget will be coming from a Christmas bonus. Right now I am looking for discussion on the components and what could be swapped in or out due to incompatibility issues. I wanted to get four DIMMs of RAM to work at max frequency in my X470 build but they would never be stable, I had to drop two out so I am hoping I won't need to with X570. Here is what I have picked so far, please let me know your opinions: CASE: Phanteks Enthoo 719 Full Tower DRGB Case - Gunmetal Grey (£180), MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte X570 AORUS MASTER (£400), CHIPSET COOLING: EKWB EK-Quantum Momentum Chipset AORUS X570 - Plexi (£40), CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X (if 4950X is released will swap with that) (£690), CPU COOLING: EKWB EK-Quantum Momentum AORUS X570 Master D-RGB - Plexi (£140), RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO Black 32GB 4,000MHz DDR4 (placeholder only until someone can recommend a better kit) (£335), RAM COOLING BLOCK: EKWB EK-RAM Monarch X4 - Nickel (£45), RAM COOLING PLATES: EKWB EK-RAM Monarch Module - Black (2 x £30 = £60), GPU 01: Nvidia RTX 3090 (£1,400), GPU 01 COOLING: EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi (£160), GPU 01 BACKPLATE: EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3070/3080/3090 Backplate - Black (£40), GPU 02: Nvidia RTX 3090 (£1,400), GPU 02 COOLING: EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi (£160), GPU 02 BACKPLATE: EKWB EK-Quantum Vector RTX 3070/3080/3090 Backplate - Black (£40), PSU: Corsair AX1600i full modular 80+ titanium (£480), SSD 01: Gigabyte AORUS M.2 (2280) PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD - 1TB (£170), SSD 02: Gigabyte AORUS M.2 (2280) PCIe 4.0 NVMe SSD - 1TB (£170), WATER PUMP/ RESERVOIR: EKWB EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 300 D5 PWM D-RGB (£175), RADIATOR 01: EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple) (£70), RADIATOR 02: EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 420 (£90), RADIATOR 01 FANS: EK-Vardar X3M 120ER D-RGB - Black (3 x £25 = £75), RADIATOR 02 FANS: EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 BB (3 x £20 = £60). Those above come to £6,290 but by time I throw in fluid, hard tubes, fittings, thermal compound and fan cables it will probably come out to £6,500. I can go more on RAM but I am unsure of the platform limitations to be honest.

I can understand OP's reason for doing it: because they can. Simple as that. I am currently waiting until my Christmas bonus drops then I am going balls deep on a new £6,000 - £7,500 build. When I do my current PC will go to the first decent bid as it won't be used anymore. I got two years out of her and she still runs great, but I love my overpowered PCs for playing Crusader Kings II.

Whats your take of these? https://www.technextday.co.uk/memory/64gb-16gbx4-gskill-trident-z-ddr4-pc428800-3600mhz-c17-f43600c17q64gtz?sort=p.price&order=DESC I’ve never used Newegg do they ship to UK without import taxes?

When working from home: 1. Finite element analysis, 2. REVIT, 3. Maya, 4. Some video edit/render in Adobe Premiere. When having fun at home: 5. Max settings 4K (locked 60fps since my home TV I run on doesn’t go higher anyway) w/HDR gaming, I have an RTX 2080Ti but I am unimpressed with ray tracing so I don’t care about that anymore. Any recommendations for a 32GB kit? Budget I can do probably around £600 mark. I am really sorry I don’t know what this means. I could get 3433 MHz on all 4 DIMMs stable while keeping T1 and almost stock timings. Moving to 3733MHz was unstable on 4 DIMMs even if I changed to T2. Moving to 2 DIMMs I could get 3733MHz on T1 and stock timings. Guys at Toms Hardware have got better but I couldn’t reach it. I don’t have a problem waiting the extra month till 3950X comes out and paying the little extra it will be, but I thought it had the same number of PCIe lanes so wouldn’t help with RAM speeds or am I wrong?

Hi all, I am going to be upgrading my current rig and I have a quick question: does moving to a 3900X with an X570 board (specifically ASRock X570 AQUA) allow me to overclock my current RAM higher? My current limitation was due to the motherboard/ cpu and not the RAM modules themselves as being used with only 2 sticks the frequency was easily 3733+ compared to the mere 3400 using 4 sticks. Current Spec: Gigabyte AORUS X470 Gaming 7 AMD Ryzen 2 2700X Gigabyte AORUS 32GB (4 x 8GB DIMMs) DDR4 3200 (OC to 3400) Upgrade Spec: ASRock X570 AQUA AMD Ryzen 3 3900X Gigabyte AORUS 32GB (4 x 8GB DIMMs) DDR4 3200 (OC to whatever possible) Sorry but as you guys know I am a complete dumbass when it comes to how shit is compatible with each other.

Hi all, I came across a little quirk in one of my old benchmark runs on UserBenchmark: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/12659435 I noticed that the drive came in on the 39th percentile with the following: 2,494 MB/s sequential read, 2,255 MB/s sequential write. I was surprised because I thought my motherboard could support the full capability of the drive (3,500 read and 2,500 write). So I ran Samsungs' benchmarking software (Wizard) and got: 3,412 MB/s sequential read, 2,308 MB/s sequential write. Is this difference because of the way UserBenchmark do their benchmark or did my drive just have a bad day then? Now time for probably a stupid question, but since the PCIe 3.0 x4 bus can handle up to 3,940 MB/s is there a way to overclock or tickle the Samsung drive up to that limit? It isn't far off it.

Ok consider this post answered by myself because for some reason I started swapping round all four modules and powering back on and incredibly after 6 permutations the system post again and bios shows all 32GB so what the fuck actually happened ? these electrics and their angry pixies leave me in constant bewilderment ??