DanielNS84

Fingers crossed! Hopefully you end up with a usable card without too much hassle!

Also, for your consideration: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3330-gt-1030-ddr4-vs-gt-1030-gddr5-benchmark-worst-graphics-card-2018 Edit: Also, a 5500XT would be great too as it supports 8K but as it's newer it's unlikely to be found but they're usually cheap if you can find a PC with an OEM 5500XT in it to pull out. Note that as in the link below the ones in a retail box are way too expensive despite being about the same performance as an RX-480 or 1060 6GB lol. Link If you have no other option the RX550 is usually in stock in a lot of places and even that is about 20% better than a 1030: Link Link Also, an RX-560 also supports DP 1.4 and is even better: Link Link Link The RX-570 is the last step before the RX-580 (Your preferred option) and either the 4 or 8GB versions will work: Link Link Link Link Note that the RX-4XX version of these also supports DP 1.4 and will work for you too. Link Link Link Link Link Note that I have no frame of reference for who's a good retailer or what sort of used marketplaces are legit in Australia but these seem decent from my first impression. Also, the used ones you can potentially just ask for a lower price and see how low you can get lol.

If 1030's are $170 then an RX-480 is worth $340 at least...even the good version of the 1030 has about 25% of the power of an RX-480* so your resale value and the ability to do anything hardware accelerated (even video and applications at higher resolutions) will be far better on an RX-480, the resale of an RX-480 8GB will be especially good once FSR gets going and gets game support. I gave mine away before the shortage and am kinda kicking myself lol. In any case, 1 AUD = 0.75 USD so a $127.50 1030 vs a $150 RX-480 is no contest so definitely go that route! Also those prices are still nuts, even in AUD lol. Also, if you mean an RX-470 (especially the 4GB) at $200 then that's a lot worse but still a far better deal that the 1030 since it's about 86% the performance of an RX-480 (at lower resolutions at least, the 8GB version should be good up to higher resolutions) but try to score an RX-480 as the difference between that and an RX-580 is about 5-6% and it's basically just an RX-480 Superclock model**. Let me know and I'll swap my VPN to Australia and go hunting to try to find you a deal lol...now I don't wanna let this go since I hate people getting scammed into getting these cards, especially the 1030 DDR4 version. * Note: These charts aren't exact but they compare game performance and this should mirror a lot of other performance numbers as well. ** Note the difference between the RX-480, RX-580, and the RX-590...the RX-590 is actually a reasonable boost over an RX-480 if you can get it but not a big deal and features are the same.

Wait what? Where do you live?!?! Also, a 1030 is $170? You're blowing my mind right now...I mean if you do get a 1030 don't get the crippled one, there are 2, one has DDR4 and one has GDDR5 and the DDR4 one is waaaaay worse and has no resale value. Also, I just noticed you're from Australia...RIP...that's such a bummer. Yeah, if you were in the states I'd just send you one of my old Quadros lol. Have you looked at the RX-4XX series? Maybe an early Quadro like I mentioned...the earliest Quadro with DisplayPort 1.4 was the Quadro P400 and if it conforms to the spec it should do the resolutions/refreshes you need...I would think since it sucks shit for gaming that it might be found cheaper where you are...that's the best I can think of for the moment...sorry.

For 5Kx2K you're gonna want to consider a few things, if you plan on doing anything natively in Linux then an AMD card will simplify things (saying this as an almost exclusive user of Nvidia cards...my Gentoo Linux box is my only one that uses an AMD card) for driver support and since you'll want one with Windows driver support still (since the 390's just got EOL'ed) you'll probably wanna pick up an RX-580/RX-590 (an RX-480 would be okay but you'll see driver support go away for that first and the prices are similar) as an 8GB model can be found used pretty easily for $100 or so (here at least) and mine even plays older games fine at 4K60 if you're into that (and does business applications and videos great as well). It has a maximum resolution of 8K (7680 x 4320) so it should be able to do 5K2K okay with the only consideration being the refresh rate...let's do some math: DisplayPort 1.4 + HDR on the RX-580 will do 32.4 Gbit/s per port. Here are the listed data rate requirements for each resolution, the overages being in bold: 8K30: 24.48 Gbit/s 8K60: 49.65 Gbit/s 4K60: 12.54 Gbit/s 4K120: 25.82 Gbit/s 5K60: 22.18 Gbit/s 5K120: 45.66 Gbit/s So if we manually calculate that 5K resolution is 14,745,600 pixels and has a data rate of 45.66 Gbit/s at 120Hz then 5K2K with 7,372,800 pixels should have the following data rates: 5K2K60: 11.09 Gbit/s 5K2K120: 22.83 Gbit/s Now, there is overhead and I may be off by a few percent but even so we have like 10Gbit/s to play with so it should be just fine. I wouldn't recommend using a lower card than this for a variety of reasons and as I said this one is cheap, the only real problem may be the size of the card itself since you already have a card in the system. I looked up your motherboard and the only problem could be the size of your case since the motherboard has room and the number of PCIE/VGA connections on your PSU (and possibly the wattage depending on if you OC)...eVGA tends to err on the side of extra power and cables so you should be good but be ready to upgrade the PSU if you have issues, especially if you're overclocking. You could go with an RX-560/570 but you may have issues with more robust content (especially with the 560) although the 8GB 570 could be fine, especially if you never intend to game on it. If you absolutely refuse to do anything but Nvidia a 1060 would technically work but they tend to cost more, have less VRAM, and perform worse. I've run a combo Nvidia/AMD GPU system in a Linux/Windows dual boot scenario before (my monitors had multiple inputs so I just had everything hooked up at once and disabled the duplicates in settings) and everything worked fine...and this was without running VM's at all which should make things even easier. Edit: Make note of the fact that a brand new 1030 will cost you the same as a used 1060 6GB or RX-580 8GB at this point so you're paying more for less features lol...don't fall for that trap! My local markets (Stuff like OfferUp and Facebook Marketplace) are flooded with RX-480's and RX-580's for cheap so check there first. Edit 2: If you're only doing 2D and video then you can also consider a 1050 Ti and they even make single slot versions of those...I saw one on OfferUp in my area the other day...it was a "Inno3D GeForce GTX 1050 Ti single slot" for reference. There's a list of good single slot cards here, just ignore the GT710 and 1030's as those are garbage. Stick with a 1050/1650/RX550 or higher and you should be good.

I actually had an 8086k in an h500p mesh first and considered the 5000d as I said lol, I eventually went to the 5950x and got a 4000d to see if everything would fit and technically it does, apparently the temps are okay but I may play with the setup a bit.

I'm already OC'ed sort of lol, PBO is on and pretty much keeps 2 cores above 5Ghz and the rest pretty close (4.8-4.9Ghz when in use) and Mr. Kingpin tends to OC himself...I generally don't OC my GPU manually as I let GPU Boost handle things and it seems to be sitting in the 2020Mhz area at the moment which seems fine. I also drew up a diagram of the airflow for someone else so I figured I'd post that as well since it shows how the AC vent behind my PC feeds it cold air from above the backplate of my desk's PC holder. Maybe that will help you determine any changes I should make (Sorry for the bad art, not my strong suit)? This is why I thought maybe swapping the top AiO's fans with the industrials might be best for temps but I dunno. Edit: What I mean by that is that I'm already OC'ed and probably won't go too much higher if at all since it's running pretty great and I'm not an extreme OC'ing enthusiast. GPU Boost did a lot better than expected and there's always the auto-OC using Nvidia overlay if needed I guess.

I'm aware lol, I'm a network administrator and server technician by trade (although lately I'm more of a workstation break/fix technician), only one of the RAID's have mirroring (the HDD's RAID) and they aren't for critical data, just for some documents and such because I don't trust HDD's to not randomly die between backups. I also have 2 external drives for backups and cloud backups but my Internet is terrible so recovering this would be a huge pain. As far as the UPS goes the monitor is on a separate UPS (on a 1000va model along with my basement network switch) so the only thing plugged into it is the PC and at night the external drive being backed up to and nothing else. I'd like to avoid upgrading the UPS as the price for a 2000va model is pretty steep (good models seem to be $600+ even on sale). The last full test I ran on the UPS is with the CPU/GPU going full tilt (with the 450W XOC BIOS on the 3080) at the highest power levels and PBO maxed out when I had the 5950x and 3080 in the system and it gave me about 7 minutes of uptime which is plenty to close what I'm doing safely and shut down and it's set to automatically shut down with 1 minute remaining but I'm more concerned the closer I get to the capacity that it will just kill whatever I'm doing and shutdown immediately lol. I don't think I'll ever get over 900w (where it will just turn off if it's anything like my 1000va model I had with my 9900k and 2080 Ti) with my current config even overclocked but I'd like to be careful. Thanks again for your info!

It's in my signature/profile, it's a eVGA 1000 T2...1000W Titanium model. That's not my limitation though, sorry if that wasn't clear...my UPS is the limitation, a CyberPower GX1500U which is rated for 900 Watts. So silence is no big deal, I use headphones when I use the PC and it's in my basement if it's running overnight so it can't be heard upstairs...as far as performance the Noctuas I have are the 3000 RPM industrials which are just over double the CFM of the Arctic P-Series and around 4 times the static pressure (Plus I already have 4 of them in my garage so price isn't an issue) but admittedly they are obnoxiously loud when above 50% (which the Arctic fans are not) so if I wasn't using headphones this would be an issue so I should have mentioned that lol... In any case, my concern is dipping below the 1 minute mark for my UPS so I won't have time to shut down if the power goes out (Which it does a lot in the mountains here, several times a week)...I want to achieve good cooling for everything but I also have 3 active RAID's in my system and if I shutdown unexpectedly I could corrupt them and I have a lot of important data I can't afford to lose. I will try your tip of swapping the fans to intake and removing the back fan to see if that works and I'll likely go through the process of disconnecting my RAID's to do additional testing soon anyway since I want to OC my RAM and doing so with the RAID's up is a non-starter in case I BSOD so I would have a good opportunity to swap things around. Thanks again!

Ah okay, in any case I think Microsoft is just going for blanket security and you'll likely just have to wait (which you should probably do anyway lol) for a customized version to come out which removes this requirement. Custom images have always been a thing and you'll likely also see reviewers and XOC types doing this as well since trimming down anything not needed has usually been their thing. In any case, just keep an eye on it, some of these "unsupported" CPU's are still quite good and someone will find a solution for this for sure.

Okay thanks, I'll look into cooling the backplate...I also thought about swapping the CPU AiO with a 280mm Liquid Freezer II for the additional localized air movement (it seems similar to the Hybrid cooler on the Kingpin) which could move some more air I suppose. Since it currently has 280mm of inputs and 480mm of outputs it makes sense that I should swap some things around but I was intending to swap back to the 3000 RPM Noctuas which would definitely be more intake CFM than output regardless of fan sizes but again that would make me nervous about the total wattage. I may end up just sourcing a 2000va UPS so I can add anything I want but those are super expensive and I'd like to avoid it if possible...thanks again for the tip, I'll have to put some thought into this.

Backstory: Okay, so I'm running a bit of an experiment in my primary PC and I have some questions for people who have used these parts in other systems. I have a ton of experience building, fixing, networking, and general troubleshooting of computers but this is a little beyond my usual scope of work. I had a 9900k and 3080 FTW3 system in an H500P Mesh a few months ago and decided to pull the trigger on going AMD since the numbers I was seeing from people was kind of crazy for the money and there was a 5800x available on Best Buy's site so I grabbed it for next day delivery and grabbed an MSI X570 Unify as well. Once this stuff arrived I noticed I still had plenty of power available from my UPS (The big limiting factor for me at the moment) so I drove the hour to my nearest Micro Center and picked up a 5950x and some better memory before driving back home. After all of this I thought I was done until I got a notification from eVGA that my queue entry from late last year for a 3090 (didn't know the exact model at first, I was in a panic and bought it as fast as I could) had popped so I ordered the card and it wasn't until afterwards that I realized the price seemed really high, even these days (plus eVGA doesn't scalp at the moment) so I looked again and realized that what I thought was just a Hybrid 3090 was the K|ngp|n 3090 so I was also paying for some extra connectors and an OLED screen lol. Now, to backtrack a bit I had also decided just prior to this that I wanted to put my case below my desk so I had purchased a Corsair 4000D to downsize my build around when I got the 5950x and the memory...the 5000D seemed too big and if I was going that big I might as well have gotten a huge case (the 7000D hadn't come out yet or I may have gone that route) or one that was very intriguing to me like the Silent Base 802 or the Meshify 2 XL Dark instead...now I already had a long PSU (eVGA 1000 T2), 2 x HDD's, 5 x SSD's (2 x 2.5" w/ 15mm Z-Height and 3 x M.2), a full 16-Lane SAS12 card, and a 280mm radiator in the form of an H115i Pro for my CPU that was in the front bringing air in along with 2 x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM up top and a Corsair ML-120 in the back of the case as the output fans so this little case was pretty full and when I realized that I had a full-sized 3090 with a 360mm radiator attached on the way and I knew I'd need to get creative. My Solution: So I moved my H115i Pro to the top of my case, to do this I had to bail on using screws entirely and go with zip-ties (but using the original holes so it looks fine) instead...this allowed me to use the front for the 360mm rad. I removed both Noctua fans (although I may end up putting them on my H115i to replace the ML-140's depending on how things go) but kept the back ML-120 in place. I had to pull all the PSU cables out and reroute them and they're smashed currently to the point where I have absolutely zero room under the PSU shroud...while doing this I disconnected the HDD bay and moved it further towards the PSU since the 360mm rad wouldn't fit since it was too thicc with the HDD bay even in the spot furthest from the front...I drilled a new hole for the retention screws that held the HDD bay in place so it didn't push against the radiator. I was able to sort of manage the tubes for the AiO's using the existing mount points and the OLED screen on the GPU (tilting it back grabs the tubes) however things are a bit tangled inside but hopefully I'll figure out a better permanent cable management solution soon. I also had to bend a few parts of the case temporarily to get everything in...it was kind of a mess. The Results: So here are the final numbers and I was hoping someone here can tell me if this is a feasible long-term setup, whether any of the temps are too high, and maybe someone could relay any tips I may need to improve things...here's what I got though: CPU: Idle: 35c, Max (AVX2): 84c Motherboard Max: System: 53c, VR MOS: 47c, Chipset: 62c DRAM: Idle: 31c, Max: 42c Hottest SSD (The 980 Pro Under the GPU): Idle: 42c, Max: 65c Hottest HDD: Idle: 33c, Max: 42c GPU (My Biggest Concern): Core Idle: 29c, Core Max: 58c, GPU Hotspot Idle: 39c, GPU Hotspot Max: 70c, GPU Memory Junction Idle: 40c, GPU Memory Junction Max: 90c This seems pretty high right? Especially compared to the other temps, is there something I can do to reduce this temperature or is this setup hopeless? Is this even too high? Maybe the fan swap I'm considering would help? I could also swap the back fan if needed or maybe repasting something or getting better thermal pads...I dunno. Let me know what you guys think. Images of the setup as it is (remember, not done with cable management so don't make fun of me lol): https://imgur.com/a/617GJLs Edit: UPS load still stays under the max and gives me 5 minutes to shut down which I wasn't expecting lol...it's pretty close to the max wattage with the 3080 in the system although maybe this has to do with there not being the 2 industrial fans in the system anymore? Makes me nervous about adding them back...I added a screenshot to the bottom of that imgur link showing full Kombustor/CPU-Z Stress Test load making it hit 700 Watts which is still well under the 800 Watt max for that model of UPS.

Bitlocker is great and with the amount of backups it's 100% safe...you can get into it either if you have no TPM present in a recovery system...just have to enter the recovery key on boot. Also, the Microsoft accounts are the ones they're responsible for, not the local ones. They recommend the online accounts and not the local ones and anyone knowledgeable enough to make a local account manually should hopefully be smart enough to keep their data safe. This is mostly for businesses, home users can use the generic drive encryption or user based EFS or something. Just remember that in XP you could just login to the blank password Administrator account on most systems...they've come a long way lol. Security is important, it's good that they're finally caring about it.

Updating the BIOS will not clear the TPM, it's a separate secure storage area as del111 mentioned. Also, there are always recovery methods which you can save to your Microsoft account, your e-mail, a flash drive, or you can just print it. Not as scary as it seems I promise. Also, there has been talk of required TPM's for a long time, it's a good security feature and I've noticed some new business laptops coming setup in advance with a TPM and they automatically enable encryption from the first boot after the initial configuration, I've even heard other techs say that Windows Home installs are encrypting drives sometimes (Although it's not called Bitlocker and has less features...seems to be called just "Drive Encryption" according to this) so it may just be a universal thing soon.

Yes, you can use Bitlocker without a dedicated hardware TPM by using the steps in the part of this guide called "How to enable (software-based) BitLocker on the operating system drive". Hope this helps.