Margott247

Hello! Can you link me to a local website you would like to purchase from? I'd do my best to give you a list of components.

Hello, to rule out the stupid things first - can you try overvolting your cpu by 0.05V? I had the same issue, though with a R7 2700X, and this fixed it.

Okay, thank you will give it a try

Hello, I got my hands on a Samsung SS160512 Sata 3 SSD (3.5"), and i'm trying to use it in a desktop computer. From what I found, it is using a 520 byte blocksize - and can not be reformatted for 512b (according to this old ebay listing on a similar ssd - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-3-5-SSD-200-MZ-3S92000-0C3-SATA-3Gb-s-520-EMC-/133568443286) Can I somehow get this ssd to work on a GA-B75M-D2V B75 motherboard? Thanks!

I asked him to visually check all the connections, he said they look fine so i asked him to replug the ATX 24pin and the CPU 4/8pin, he did so, but it didnt help. Seems like the front panel connectors didnt come loose neither. I also asked him to reinsert the ram, just in case Edit: Included a video he sent me, where you can see the fan spins up for a second, and then the pc shuts back down ezgif.com-gif-maker.mp4

Hey, i sold a pc, r3 2200g, a320 board, 2x4gb afox 3000mhz, 400w (250w on the 12v rail) psu, and when it arrived to the customer, it wouldn't turn on. It turned on after some time after it was plugged in. This hasn't happened since wednesday when I sold it, but today it happened to him again in the morning. He says the USB delivers power even when this happens. Any ideas? Msi A320M-A pro max, lets say fortron hydro pro psu so the psu doesn't take all the blame just because you don't know of the brand any ideas what could cause this?

I got together all the courage i had left and repasted the laptop with liquid metal. It didn't go over 91 yet testing on gta, but to be fair i expect it will anyway

Well that's great so they design them to run games for 4 minutes and then let them throttle down to 6 hertz and run half life 2 at 14 fps?

TLDR: Overheating laptop - repasted but didnt help a lot, any suggestions? Hey, i recently purchased this laptop, slightly used, as a display model. When I got the laptop, it was overheating a lot, so i took it apart, cleaned the fans, there was almost no built up dust, repasted the cpu and gpu with thermal kryonaut. This did not help at all, the temps stayed around 92-98c where the components would throttle. So I thought maybe i put too much paste, I got arctic mx4 and tried it again today, also replaced the vram thermal pads, but now im running cs, and i've already hit 94 degrees on the cpu. It does seem to be staying a little bit lower than before, at least hasnt hit 98 yet which it would basically immedately before, but i read about people getting 40 idle and 70-80 max on the same laptop after repasting. Would you maybe have any suggestions for me? My laptop is on the table, i placed some spare pci brackets under it so it can intake air, this had no effect. I dont wanna try liquid metal, and throttlestop... Nothing else than disabling boost frequency helped in any way or seemed to work at all. This is the laptop: https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Predator-Helios-GeForce-PH317-51-787B/dp/B073PY18CN

Hello, I am running at these settings, and i get around 41-44mh on phoenixminer/ethermine - it is around 41-44 when im on +1500mhz memory too, and core has no effect on the hashrate. my gpu is an RTX 2080S Waterforce by gigabyte, that cools the memory too. My question is, is it safe to run my gpu like this, with the memory overclocked so high, or will my gpu die sooner? We have talked about this with my mates, but i realized i dont really know whether its the heat or the high clocks that damage the memory over time. Thanks.

Im so ashamed of myself, that actually worked. I placed a jumper on it and the pc now boots ok and displays. Im so sorry for bothering

this is what im seeing, should i get a jumper from my old s775 board and place it on this? the bottom and middle one i presume

I didnt, ill try to now Ok i checked and i dont see anything that is connecting the jumpers as in this picture. There is no red thing like that, just 3 pins. Could this cause the issue?

Hello, as the title says. Ive just built a pc and it refuses to display. Neither from the igpu nor from the dgpu. When i take the ram out, the pc gives 3 long beeps (ram issue) but when i input any ram, it doesnt do any beepcodes and doesnt beep. Specs: intel desktop board dh55tc i3-520 2x4GB DDR3 1333 AMD HD 5850 Rexpower 400W PSU (w/2x6pin pci-e) I have tried reseating the memory, tried different memory, tried to boot without dgpu and also tried a different PSU - Fortron Hexa 500

Hello, I am looking to buy new speakers. My old ones are kinda janky and look really awful - although they sound good. I would like speakers for about $150, im not an audiophile. Should I get the nommo or any other set? I prefer design over slightly better sound

Of course, dont worry. Thank you for reminding me though!

I suppose I should just wait till i plug it in my friends pc then, right?

hahaha it was from a prebuilt "g a m i n g" computer

Hello, I recently got another R9 390. This time its the strix edition. I am looking to give it to my friend in exhange for his 1050ti, to help him out a little. His PSU can run it, but I didnt get to test the gpu yet and would like to do it before going to him and installing it in his system. My Nexus RX 6300 is missing most of the modular cabelage, only having 1x8PIN PCI-e despite supporting up to (4?) of them. I dont even have molex to use it to convert to pcie 6pin (it would WORK for 10 minutes just to check if the card displays). Can I use my SilentiumPC Supremo FM2 Gold´s modular cables to test this gpu, or is there a way of running it without the 6pin, or should I just get a molex to 6pin? There is no way ill buy a separate gpu to do this, i dont care if its a bit risky to check, ill use an AM3 board so there is not much to lose. I need to know if it displays. Which of these is the best option? Edit: I know these are stupid ideas, I just really need to check

Yeah I know but you have to buy a very specific kit, preferably ryzen certified and even then its not guaranteed to work. Id prefer not losing my nerves when im confuguring my pc for first time use and then again every few months. Ive had this issue before on an a320 board too i did short the clr cmos jumpers

Welp @TofuHaroto turns out its not working after all. It did for a bit, but the bios battery wasnt in. Now i put it in, started it again and there is no video and i cant do it even with a single stick again. I regret buying amd because of these stability issues, never again

There we go. Its working fine now! The solution to my problem or rather what I did: >Clear the cmos >Reseat the RAM like 50 000 times, until you get to the bios >Set the voltage offset to 50mV and DRAM voltage to 1.35 Post, got into windows. Added second stick, loaded XMP profile. Working now. I would have never gotten here without you @TofuHaroto, thank you a lot. You saved me! Id want to donate to you somehow if i didnt have 40 cents on my account. And I almost gave up on the pc!

Okay brother, I booted into Windows with 1 stick. Its in slot 1 downclocked to 2400mhz and at 1.3V, with cpu offset set to 50mV. Should I try inserting the other ram stick?

I got into the bios with 1 stick. Is there anything I could to? Should I set the cpu offset back to 50mV?

I just got video with 1 stick in slot 1. Then it went off and no video after that. (With the same memory)