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About ultra_code

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    Computers, games, and software (retro and modern), as well as programming. Oh, forums too. :)

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  1. 'Twas not to be. First, it wasn't that one wire came apart from the Dupont connector, both ends did (since one end came loose, so did the other end). This required me to shove out the dupont connector from the PCIe power plastic housing, only to then find out that there's no easy way to undo the inner bending of the Dupont connector to reattach the two ends of the wire together back to it. Soldering seemed out of the question. At this point, I think it's a lost-cause unless I can find equally big Dupont connectors, the size of which I don't personally have, and I'm unsure where to source them from. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Otherwise, it'll just be a spare PSU in my collection, and probs will desolder the whole 8-pin cable from the PSU itself (not going to be easy, or that safe, but doable; I have big rubber gloves ).
  2. I figured as much, but just want to be sure. Looks I'm covered, too: Guess this is easier than I thought.
  3. Hello, I have a quick question. A few months ago, I OCed my Ryzen 5 3600 on my Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero with a Noctua NH-D15 and a kit of G.skill Trident Neo Z 3600Mhz (XMP-enabled in BIOS), and got what I thought was a respectable 4.1GHz/4.05GHz (CCX 0/CCX 1) overclock at around 1.33V Vcore, being IIRC 6-hours stable in Prime 95 Small FFTs, OCCT, and AIDA64 (the later 2 just no-where near as demanding as the first test, obviously, but I just test with various torture tests just in case), peaking in the mid-80s Celsius in P95. I was able to raise my clocks to 4.15GHz/4.075GHz, but the temps were just too high, and stability was a concern, so I dialed back. While this OC has served me well, I want to go further. I cough pre-ordered the IceGiant ProSiphon Elite, for the ultimate, overkill cooling performance available "on air," so when I get the cooler, I should be able to push the clocks further at higher voltages and remain stable. However, I am unsure of a few things: Does SOC affect stability for multiplier OCing (i.e. only touching the multiplier) in any way? Is there any benefit to raising SOC voltages if you aren't doing memory OCing? If XMP is enabled, should you not set SOC voltage on "Auto" during any OCing attempt? I hope I haven't sounded confusing in any way. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  4. This is an interesting one. So, recently, I pulled my test PSU (Corsair CX550 that I bought, eh, 2-ish years ago?) off of my storage rack and I noticed this: It appears that *somehow* (I guess from the hundreds of times I have moved this PSU around) that the +2-pin part of the 6+2-pin connector partially disconnected itself from the 6-pin. Not only now am I down a 8-pin, I can't safely use the 6-pin part anymore. I wanna fix it. I have soldering tools if required.. But I need some advice to see if it's even possible to safely fix this. If not, I'll just sell this for like very cheap locally, and get a new high-quality Seasonic SFX semi- or fully-modular PSU for testing. But ideally, I don't want to spend more money. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  5. @Jarsky Yeah, those first four brackets won't work - they all have either a VGA or DVI cut-out, and rely on those ports for attaching themselves to the card. As for the last one, even if I were to cut out port holes (which I won't do), the screw arms are not at the right lengths by the looks of it to work. So, sadly, nope. Still at square one.
  6. The title says it all. I bought an MSI GeForce GT 1030 2G LP OC off of Newegg, refurbished, assuming that it would come with a low-profile bracket so that I could use it in a SFF Dell PC that I'm trying to flip, and no sooner did I open the box that my assumption, my expectation was shown to be completely wrong. The card came without a low-profile bracket! Not only at, but it appears that no one from one side of the Pacific to the other sells a LP bracket for this card, given its ports (no VGA or DVI, meaning the bracket screws through the card's PCB). So, before I rip out my hair completely and by yet another 1030 while just storing this away for some future occasion, since I can't return it, does anyone know of a secret source for getting my hands on a LP bracket for this card? I would run the world and back out of appreciation if someone could find such a bracket. Thanks!
  7. I looked at that exact post. Yeah, no, those are a no-go. I am hoping for a "yes, there exists such a switch" answer from someone, but I'm trying not to get my hopes too high.
  8. I feel like this question has been asked before. In fact, I know some slight variation of this question has been asked when doing some research before typing up this post. But, I seek to ask the same question again, in late 2019. The question is, are there any cheap yet high-quality 2-PC/1-monitor switches (not KVMs - I don't need the USB/audio ports, as I already have that covered) capable of 1440p @ 144Hz? I have a Dell S2417DG monitor, a nice TN panel with Gsync support, 1440p resolution at 144Hz, and low response times (according to the marketing). And, as far as I can tell, for a TN, the viewing angles are really good. I can't notice any realistic difference in image quality at different angles. Point being, it's a great monitor, and I'm not exactly looking to drop more money on another monitor with similar specs but with two DisplayPort ports on it (if there are any out there). And no, a dual-monitor setup is out of the question. So, that's why I want to find a good DP switch. I am currently using the monitor for both my Ryzen 5 3600 main and my former i7-3770k main, the later of which is currently running XP and Vista for fun, in terms of playing older games on supported hardware at insane settings, and just because it's kinda cool to run older Windows OSes. Now, I'm using the DP port for my R5 main (obviously) and the HDMI port for the older machine. The HDMI port on the monitor works great under Vista, 1440p albeit at 60Hz, but under XP? 1080p. 1080p on a 1440p monitor is blurry. Nothing... serious, but noticeable. Hence, my desire for a DP switch. That way, I can once again use the DP out on the 980 ti of that machine and get crisp 1440p under XP and maybe 120Hz under Vista. However, I feel as I am asking for the impossible. Most "switches" are KVMs, and such KVMs go for over $200. But wherever you look, whether at DP switches under $200 or KVMs over that amount, at least from some Amazon reviews, they are usually very problematic, with plenty of 1-star reviews and issues galore. On that note, I ask: Does there exist a switch as I outlined for me, or am I SOL? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  9. @farmernr An update: First, I implemented the settings as listed in that Reddit post, and, from what I can tell, everything is basically the same. 98 can access the NAS via FTP, under XP I actually can map the NAS as a network drive (didn't know that before) and works as expected, and under Vista and 10, no issues (for Vista I did have to disconnect and reconnect, but besides that no issue). As for whether that solved the problem of detected the NAS over-the-network on a machine without SMB1 support enabled, on my Windows 10 laptop, I "removed" SMB1 support, searched the network, and lo-and-behold, I was able to find the NAS, so I'll say there's a strong chance that making SMB3 the default protocol resolves that problem. I would want to test with machines which never had SMB1 enabled on them prior to confirm this, but I'm sure that's the case. On top of all of this, I found out that PowerShell (at least the newer versions of Powershell; XP's and Vista's did not have this command available) has a nifty little command, Get-SmbConnection, that tells you what "dialect" of SMB is being used to connect with a given SMB share: This screenshot is on my main, with the SMB1 Windows Feature "installed." Like a smart cookie, the machine connects to the NAS via SMB3.1.1 instead of 1, so you can have SMB1 support enabled without issue, as far as I can tell. As for your mention of changing local security policies, I'm assuming that's only applicable for the settings you originally provided, so I didn't mess with that. In conclusion, I guess the "problem" has been solved. I'll still need to figure out how to see what version of SMB is used under XP and Vista, so if anyone knows of a way to find that information out, please let me know, but besides that, IDK if there's anything else. Any who, thanks Farmernr1!
  10. @farmernr1 My apologizes. I wasn't clear when it came to the older systems. 98SE AFAIK is unable to connect to my NAS via SMB, and same with XP, so for those machines, I just have them access my server via FTP, although I barely access the server via FTP under 98, since IE6's abilities at saving content off of my FTP is bad. Also, I didn't provide this information to begin with, but when I first set up my NAS, I was using Windows 10, and no other machines with older OSes were on. I doubt that OMV even has the capabilities of setting SMB protocol settings based on what it sees on the network, but even if it does, it shouldn't have seen the older PCs. It must have been a default setting in my case to have only SMB1 support enabled. ? As for your descriptions of the variables, thanks! Now I have an understanding of what they do. Honestly, I think I can live without 98SE being able to access my NAS anyway, so the settings suggested by that Reddit post I'll be okay in implementing. My question, though, is: will it prevent XP from accessing the NAS via FTP? That would kinda be a deal-breaker. Also, I have on one of my machines Vista Ultimate SP2 installed, and on that machine I have the NAS mapped as a network drive. Since Vista is "fairly new," it should be able to live with these security settings, no? I want as much security that doesn't jeopardize NAS access for XP+ at this point.
  11. I need some help regarding SMB support under OpenMediaVault. I currently have a lovely little Odroid HC2 with a 2TB WD Red hard drive running OpenMediaVault for my NAS that I had set up following ExplainingComputer's setup guide. I've had no issues with it, and it meets all of my NAS requirements. However, from day-one, I noticed one less-than-ideal thing with my NAS: in order to see it on the network and connect to it, I have to add SMB1 support to my Windows 10 machines: From what I know, SMB2+ is a lot better in terms of performance, so there's no reason why I wouldn't want OMV to use SMB2+ by default. So, the question is, what do I need to add to my "extra options" text box under "advanced options" in the "SMB/CIFS" tab and in what order to enable SMB2+ support (preferably SMB3.X), and then how can I verify that it is using the newer version of SMB by default after I implement the changes? This Reddit post seemingly lists all of the additional configuration options that I need to add, but I am unsure as to what all of the options after protocol do. If this Reddit post is right on the money, some clarification would be appreciated. Finally, a concern. After OMV begins to use SMB2+, my Windows 10 machines should start communicating with the NAS over that protocol instead of SMB1 even if I leave SMB1 support on, no? A dumb question, but I want to be 100% certain. I wish to leave it on because I have some older PCs running 98SE and XP that I transfer files to and from over the network, and SMB1 support is required for that. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  12. Hello LTT forum members! I have a question regarding Linux Mint 19. You see, I have noticed that every time I boot up LM on my machine (which has Windows 10 on another SSD), I notice that the boot order in my UEFI gets changed. For example - before: After: I have also noticed recently in the past that sometimes, LM will also change the boot order to the point where it'll make the LM SSD be the first in the list. My questions then are as follows: Why is LM able to do this, and how can I prevent it from doing this? (Okay, granted, the pictured boot order difference is, in reality, harmless - it doesn't change the boot order in any noticeable way, but still) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  13. Hello LLT forum members! I'm looking to do a very small overclock on my main i7-3770k system, and thought I should come here to get some advice/reassurance before doing anything. First, what the planned overclocking entails. I'm looking to overclock my CPU by about 200-300MHz on stock voltages (so looking to hit 4.2GHz at stock voltages). I'm using an Arctic Freezer 33 eSprots Edition CPU cooler, my motherboard is an Asus P8Z77-V Deluxe, and my PSU is a Corsair TX650M 650W 80+ Gold semi-modular PSU. Do you think that this is a reasonable overclocking goal, given my hardware? Next, according to my BIOS, I would be adjusting the turbo ratio, no? Meaning that, when the CPU can't hit that turbo ratio, it would go back to the base clock of 3.5GHz? Finally, do I need to turn off all energy-saving and C-state related features in the BIOS? This isn't supposed to be an insane overclock or anything, and I (and my power bill) would very much appreciate it if my PC could spare energy when able to do so. I would appreciate any help in this matter. Thanks!