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About Kaaverik

  • Title

Contact Methods

  • Discord
  • Steam
    You bet
  • Battle.net
  • Twitch.tv
    Once in a blue moon
  • Twitter
    Why not

Profile Information

  • Location
    The Networking Closet
  • Interests
    Optimization, Heat dissipation, Overclocking, Underclocking, Methods of Cooling, Team Fortress 2, and squeezing every ounce of latency out of a computer.
  • Biography
    I live.
  • Occupation
    Student and Employee. Student Employee.


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 2600 @4.5ghz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte AORUS M Micro-atx
  • RAM
    16gb Corsair Vengeance @ 3200mhz
  • GPU
    Powercolor Red Devil Vega 56
  • Case
    Cooler Master NR400
  • Storage
    512gb ADATA SX8200 Pro, some 2tb hard drives
  • PSU
    Seasonic Focus+ 750w Platinum
  • Display(s)
    Viewsonic XG2402 / AOC I2367FH
  • Cooling
    Scythe Kabuto 3 / 3x Thermaltake Riing RGB Fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K65 Lux
  • Mouse
    Corsair Harpoon
  • Sound
    Steelseries Arctis 3
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home

Recent Profile Visitors

296 profile views
  1. Your memory is clocked extremely low. It might be that your motherboard and memory are what is preventing your PC from running games as well as they should, you have an i5 7500 and a 2060 for crying out loud. What kind of motherboard format does your case allow?
  2. He did a multi-part series for this.
  3. Either of those Cooler Master coolers will get the job done. The 212 black is just a matte copy of the EVO. If you really want silent performers, check out Noctua or Scythe. Scythe is essentially a cheaper equivalent of a Noctua.
  4. StangMan363 is right, your memory will be sitting at 2666mhz due to the 8700 (non K) being locked. Everything else looks fine, but I would change the memory or the CPU depending on your budget.
  5. I know of some motherboards where those pins are soldered right through the entire PCB. With careful heating and fine motor skills, you might be able to resolder and replace if you can see the traces on the other side of the board. If there are seemingly no correlating traces present, it's a lost cause. You can get an idea of a header that goes through the PCB here. Take a look at the 5th picture and see if what you find on the other side of the board is similar. You have another connector, I wouldn't sweat it.
  6. It looks like EKWB may have one in the works, but it is not available yet. Here
  7. Ah! I thought you might have been referencing the Dark Rock Pro 4, which does have the dual fan/tower design. You could have been suggesting the Dark Rock 4 I do agree that there isn't a best, however there are a lot of good coolers with different designs and properties. The Wraith will cool the CPU enough, with a little noise. I think OP would have a better experience with an aftermarket cooler.
  8. If you're looking for inexpensive silent performance, the Scythe Ninja 5 is actually right up to that 155mm mark. It's huge with 8 heat pipes and 2 low rpm fans so it stays silent. Be Quiet! products are also very nice, but the Dark Rock is 162mm. The Shadow Rock 2 would be a better fit. For a 2700x running stock, you could get away with a Cryorig H7. Just look for coolers with a cooling capacity >140 watts. As Jeppes suggests, the Fuma 2 would also be a great fit.
  9. Depending on what size and speed you want, just make sure that the new drive has a gap between the long pinout (power) and the short pinout (data) the key words in the product description will be "SATA" and "Desktop". Choosing one of these should direct you on the right path. Seagate and Western Digital seem to be the most popular desktop drive manufacturers at the moment. I hope this helps!
  10. This is a SAS interface typically found on servers and in multi-drive arrays. It uses a different connector than SATA, but the pinouts are the same. You could possibly purchase an adapter that turns it into a SATA drive. Personally, I would return it for a regular SATA drive.
  11. I hope it works out! You may not see a big drop in temperatures, but your case will be taking in air and exhausting it more efficiently than with just two rear fans.
  12. After a quick search, it appears that people have been able to use Freesync with their Nvidia cards, but I would look into it more just to make sure. List of unofficial monitors at the bottom of the page Looks like Eurogamer did an article that lists the XG2402
  13. Regarding your case, if you don't mind a mesh front panel, the Cooler Master NR600 sits at just about $70 (USD) and has two fans, which are enough to keep your CPU and GPU supplied with cool air and exhaust hot air, and not much more. There's plenty of room to work in the case and the layout is very intuitive. The Corsair case has a solid front which absolutely prevents any kind of decent air intake. The Phanteks case also appears to follow similar design with 2 fans, which is decent enough for the same price as the NR600. For a monitor, Freesync works with AMD cards and G-Sync works with Nvidia. The caveat with G-Sync is that it usually costs more. I'm very satisfied with my Vega 56 and My Viewsonic XG2402, which is 144hz Freesync. Once you change Windows display properties and some settings with the monitor, it will be smooth sailing. Very, very smooth.
  14. You might already know! The fan itself should be visible, which means it would be venting air out of the case. If you see the rear chassis of the fan (NZXT Logo) the fan is sucking air into the case, and should be flipped over. For a consumer m.2 SSD, normal temperatures are typically from 30c to 40c, but should not exceed 50C. Your SSD is operating at a high threshold, but it is safe. You have the orientation right, but you don't really need to use one of the 140mm fans as exhaust, unless you want to. The NZXT fans should be ok as is, as long as they are oriented for exhaust.
  15. This is not good! The fans should always be oriented front to back, with front fans pulling cool air in, and top and rear fans pulling air out! Since the H510 has a solid front, the fans have to work even harder to get any cool air into the case. I would recommend at the very minimum, moving that top fan to the front. Cool air will be pulled into the system, and will naturally want to rise out of the case, and get sucked out by the rear fan. Your components actually appear to be at pretty normal temperatures, so they are not overloaded when you are gaming. I assume that you installed the heat spreader for your SSD? It may not be it's fault. The hot air in your system is being pushed down by your intake fan at the top, circling around the CPU and GPU. That could be why the temperature is so high. Negative pressure means that the air outside the case needs to be sucked in (from the front) to cool components. Buying a second fan to do this will help a lot. You still want cross-airflow, so positive pressure in the rear will push the hot air out of the system. You want the same amount of air going into and moving out of the case. I hope this helps clarify things.