Dimondminer11

I have an S20 ultra I got a while ago in nearly perfect condition but now out of nowhere the camera decided to bork itself. It'll show an image for a second and then say "camera failed" That goes for 3rd party apps as well. I've done everything (factory reset, wiping cache partition, safe mode, resetting camera settings) and idk what to do now. I'd rather not spend $100 on an entire new camera module to be completely honest but at the same time I'd hate to upgrade from this phone as it does everything I wanted it to do until now. Any help would be appreciated!

Forgot to update this thread but I found out the backplate is acting as a heat trap. I put a fan for intake from the top of the case (140mm noctua one) and that dropped my temps by 2-4 C. I'm guessing that the heat trap was occuring because my cooler is an NH-D15 so a very hot piece of metal is right next to another hot piece of metal that has no good airflow.

Hell the contact between the die and the heat pipes is as good as you can expect from a cooling solution that doesn't use a vapor chamber.

Except I already have replaced the thermal paste and some pads. It barely improved.

And also something I didn't find out until just about an hour ago was that the fans on my NH-D15 were backwards feeding rather warm air directly into the intake for the radiator on the 1080 Ti.

Well the fan I have on the radiator on the 1080 Ti is a shitty fan that doesn't spin very fast or is very good as the feller I bought it from said the OG fan died so I just threw on a rando fan I had. I've replaced some of the thermal pads on the 2080 Ti (on all VRAM chips but only some VRM components) with K5 Pro now. Tbh though I am testing with the most power hungry and demanding game I know, which is Crossout, where I unlock the framerate and allow it to go as high as possible which is how my 2080 ti can hit 360w with 120% pl. It still hits 300w with 100% pl though but the temps are still high there ~82-84C and the hotspot is a good bit higher. I'm a bit clueless as to why it wants to run so hot.

Also note that the temp diff between the hotspot and core temp is 14 C which seems a bit high imo

Nope the improvement is only 4 C. I have also now ordered a 140mm noctua fan to put on my side panel as my case is an oldie that has a fan mount on the side panel. I would've gotten a 200mm fan but that would've collided with the 2nd fan on my NH-D15. Until that gets here I have a 120mm fan mounted on the side panel.

I have replaced half the VRMS and all VRAM thermal pads with K5 Pro now to help. After putting on NT-H1 that dropped my temps by a few C vs the gelid extreme but who knows if my temps will stay where they are in a week or 2. Idk if the 2080 Ti die is capable of pumping out the noctua thermal paste. Opening the side panel improves temps by no more than 4 C and I have also now ordered a 140mm fan as my case is an oldie that has a fan mount on the side panel. I currently got a crappy 120mm fan on the side for now. It hits 88 C @ 360w or 82 C @ 300w.

Yep the cooler is very clean. The case has a 200mm fan in the front that I have set to max RPM, which is 700, however that fan has to blow through HDD cages.

Yep I did. Its clean as a whistle. I repasted it with some gelid gc extreme but now I repasted it AGAIN and am trying NT-H1 now.

My 2080 Ti has been getting pretty warm, too warm for my liking, under full load. With GPU temp being as high as 84 C @ 300w and hotspot getting to 102 C; its pretty loud after adjusting the fan curve to make it hit 100% at 86 C. This Gigabyte card is the Gaming OC version, with 3 fans. The only real reason why I am even making this post is because I recently picked up an EVGA 1080 Ti Hybrid with a 120mm AIO and it's temps are 74-76C @ 300w. So why the heck is a fairly beefy air cooled GPU getting its pants blown off by a dinky 120mm AIO that is QUIETER? I was thinking about ditching the stock cooler and picking up something like the NZXT G12 and converting my 2080 Ti to be water cooled given the outstanding performance of the 120mm AIO from my 1080 Ti.

No it will not but you CAN convert it. Shame is that you have to pay to use the software required to do the conversion but if I remember right when you do the conversion, your inventory will not carry over.

I use a PowerColor Red Dragon RX 580 8GB as my GPU of choice in my Mac Pro but I can't get to the boot picker even after I installed OpenCore and removed my GT 120 which previously did the duty of showing the boot picker. So my only theory as to why it is not showing up is the fact that this GPU is a dual BIOS one and I have it set to the 2nd position on the switch as the first position has a mining BIOS installed (I bought it used for $90 whadya expect) so do I just need to install a reggo BIOS on the 1st position on the switch to get the boot picker or am I completely off base on my thought here? Any advice would be much appreciated.

Nvm I reset the PRAM and it booted.

Booting up the system with my GT 120 and RX 580 (NOT Mac variant) works fine and I can get to MacOS but when I took out the GT 120 to attempt to install macOS Mojave, it wouldn't let me as I had a non metal GPU in the system, which was the 120 EVEN THOUGH I wasn't using it at all. I had my display connected to the RX 580 but I want to install opencore and that means I have to run the Mojave installer to update the firmware but OH NO I can't do that because of the 120. And for some reason it doesn't want to POST without it. Pressing the power button and waiting results in nothing if the GT 120 is not installed; not even numlock would work. So while I'm taking a break before I put a hole through this dang thing I'd like ya'lls advice on what to do in this situation.

Also the RTX 4080 is horrendously poor value and even the 9900K isn't fast enough to keep up with those cards even at 1440p. Buy a 3080 for $700 and you'll be a very happy person

Did you miss my update? The CPU after repasting it... again... draws 60-65w at 4.1GHz under an all core load. Although now it is throttling the VRMs due to those getting too hot. When I get a job again I am going to get K5 Pro and replace my janky hand cut thermal pads I used for the CPU VRMs. When I repasted it I noticed my janky thermal pads were not making proper contact on 1, maybe 2 of the chokes.

Ok fixed it. All I had to do was repaste the CPU. It is now running 4.1GHz all cores and drawin 65-70w.

And now Throttlestop borked itself again not applying multiplier changes and I am locked to 3.6GHz unless I use XTU. This thing has been a big pain in the rear not gonna lie.

Of course that is how it used to be. The only thing I did recently was I added a service code from a different alienware 15 r2 into the BIOS, but that one was the 6700hq version. Using chilled air this time it bounced between 45w-55w and dipped down way below 45w from time to time. So idk if that borked stuff or what. The reason why I had to add a service code was that alienware control center and other alienware software didn't want to install due to the fact that this logic board (which I bought off ebay) had no service code. I should mention though that I think the reason it is "PL2" throttling is because one core is running at 90 C all the time and the delta between cores is 20 C so thats a classic case of a bad mount imo. However I just remounted the cooler and it didn't help so idk what I am doing wrong here.

I mostly understand how Throttlestop works. It is just constantly PL2 throttling but back when I was seeing how fast I could overclock it I used chilled air for cooling and I saw the CPU draw upwards of 75w.

How disappointing...