y3llowduk

This was loose inside a customers Corsair PSU. Can anyone help identify it? Can't spot anything in PSU internal diagrams that looks similar.... google image search thinks its a sheet of gold? - looks like a thin sheet of copper or gold foil glued in-between two clear pieces of thin acrylic. Looks the same on the other side.

That makes sense, upon looking at the pinout it would only be the data pin which is conflicting. Would be impossible to short the +5V/ground as the 5v header can only be connected one way. Why would the conflict on the data pin not cause a burny burny issue though as well as just a garbled signal? Is it because it never carries any meaningful current? My electrical knowledge doesn't stretch far enough haha

Does anyone know what would happen in the below scenario? 5V ARGB fan hub with a remote control. Lets say you set it to pulsing green via the remote control. All it's 3-pin 5V outputs will have a "pulsing green" signal. Motherboard with a 5V ARGB header outputting a red pulse (controlled via software) What if you accidentally used a female to female 5v ARGB cable, going from the motherboard into one of the 3-pin outputs on the hub? (NOT into the "RGB IN" connector which might be featured on the hub). You'd then have a conflict... two opposing signals, one wanting pulsing green, one pulsing red. Would something pop/burn? Can see this being a pretty easy scenario to accidentally hook up, especially if you have multiple hubs too.

Hmm I'm guessing there isn't going to be any semi-easy ways round this. Would be nice if you could get cheap non-wifi wireless doorbells but with little vibrating receivers you could just leave in your pocket, or wife's underwear. I've found one such product on amazon but it's 3x the price of a regular wireless, non-plugin doorbell set. Boo. Just want to listen to music without missing every parcel and without spending £50 on a ring...

I'm after a really basic smart doorbell solution. No need for a camera, literally just after a button which can send a notification to my phone or PC in the house. Only needs to work on the LAN not internet. Would be useful to have a ringer too. Looking to do this as cheap and as hacky as possible - raspberry pi maybe? Looking for suggestions

So I'm doing a build for a friend and the fan curve on the 3060 Ti is driving me nuts. So for context, I'm very familiar with MSI afterburner etc., been building PC's for years. The default fan behaviour (with latest drivers installed, before you ask) - fans stay stopped up to 60c then fans suddenly kick in to 30%, which is very loud, temps drop down to like 57c, fan sticks at 30%. They stay at 30% even for quite a while after you've stopped the GPU load and the card has dropped all the way down to the mid 30c's. It's like it's on some timer, where it keeps the fans at 30% for an extra 30s even when the card has cooled off, then suddenly they will stop, no incrementing below 30% So basically the default fan profile is just jet engine, or off. 30% may not sound high, but on this card 30% is very loud and is way overkill. I mean at 30% the card struggles to even get back up to 60c... When setting up a fan curve in afterburner, it shows the dotted line on the fan curve at 30% speed, which I swear isn't normally shown for a card which supports 0rpm? Anyway, whatever you do in afterburner, you cannot get rid of this behaviour. The card only follows your fan curve after it has reached 60c. For example, if you make a flat fan curve at say 60% fan speed, the fans will be off when cool, until it hits 60c, then instantly go up to 60%. Help! Tried all the settings in afterburner and tried messing around in MSI's pointless dragon centre. Also tried ASUS' and EVGA's GPU software's for a laugh.

Yes but the problem with that analogy is that your crappy "Sunny Rubber King Xpert" tyres probably don't have a supported car list, with specific entries such as "R33 GTR" and "Ford GT40 " in it. You could argue that technically there is some assumed "support" in that you might find a Sunny Rubber King Xpert in the correct 245/45 R17 sizing for an R33 GTR... but that's not quite the same as an explicit list as in this mobo's case... I wouldn't be so salty if it was a mild throttle tbh...

And how is a general consumer that doesn't know about these components, gong to have the "common sense" to know that this will be an issue? I think it's more common sense for someone to assume "supported" means it will work at baseline performance, not run at 1/4 of it's base specification. As a MINIMUM don't you think there should be some disclaimer on the supported CPU list? I'm surprised that AMD haven't gotten onto this to preserve the potential damage this could do to their image...

For some clarification, this isn't throttling after an hour of cinebench looping... this is after about 1min, in a cool room.

"aren't up to the task"... aka.... not really supported right?

please read my original post, it still throttles with a fan placed DIRECTLY on top of the VRM & choke components.

This all boils down to your definition of "supported" here Another thing is... I'm fairly certain there is an AMD "spec" given out which outlines a minimum base performance for mobo manufacturers so that they don't make AMD look bad... because lets be honest, your average consumer would probably blame the CPU for this issue.

The main issue here is for a consumer that doesn't So lying about supported CPU's is fine? Right.

Expecting it to run a completely stock, "supported" CPU at base clocks is an unreasonable expectation?

I agree, it's a poor pairing. I was just tinkering. However, If the CPU is on the supported CPU list, it should be able to at least run it at base clocks. If not, then Gigabyte and others are being outright misleading with their products. We're not talking about a light throttle either... we're looking at constant spikes down to 0.5GHz. Oh and as mentioned, it was still throttling with a fan placed directly over the top... granted not as badly but still.