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Kedohawyr

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  1. Did I miss the part in the video were he says how much/what type of RAM they used?
  2. The SanDisk Ultra 3D is the same drive as the WD Blue 3D (WD owns both brands) and it's a very respectable SATA SSD that I'd easily recommend (same goes for the Crucial MX500). The Samsung 860 QVO is sketchy in a number of ways, from its regular performance to its performance as it's filled up to its write endurance. QLC memory, or at least the design currently being used by Samsung, does not seem to be ready. If QVO drives were being sold at a significant discount compared to the 3 drives I mentioned before then there might at least be some reason to consider them as storage drives. But in my market they are not (don't know what prices you have), and for the same or similar price there isn't any good reason to go with a markedly worse drive.
  3. What you'll find is mainly all discontinued. I would use this list as a starting point https://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#G=6,12&sort=-ext_525&page=1 (the 6 bay Rosewell Thor is the only one you can really buy at retail) and begin hitting up ebay or craigslist. Note that some of the bigger cases, like the Lian Li PC-D600, command a huge price on the secondary market due to their massive expandability combined with rarity.
  4. As usual the two drives to look for in a 2.5" SATA SSD are the 2.5" Crucial MX500 and the 2.5" WD Blue 3D, whichever one is cheaper where you're buying. In terms of value 500GB drives are better buy than older 250GB drives, you get 100% more storage for less than a 50% price increase. People might suggest a Samsung drive but unless it's on sale for the same as the other drives I mentioned you do not need it, only some very specific situations call for the slight difference in attributes that some Samsung SATA SSDs possess. If the price is really good a ADATA SU800 is fine though I'd suggest the other two drives over it. Do not bother with a DRAM-less SATA SSDs such as the Crucial BX500, WD Green or ADATA SU650. And just don't buy a Kingston drive.
  5. Linus wants to secure his home from threats. He installs a dedicated device to guard it from electronic intruders. In the process he does not seem to notice the grown man in an orange shirt hiding behind the mesh door in his server closet.
  6. There are lots that do various levels of backup like this (the backup software tossed in with new WD portable drives might even do it) but the one I use because it's simple and straight forward (while still offering some options like being able to setup exclusion filters and multiple saved jobs) is FreeFileSync.
  7. As someone who regularly recommends Macrum Reflect it's probably adaquant but not the ideal solution for this kind of job. If you do use it you need to be sure to go into the advanced options when doing clone or image (image might be better so you can mount it as a read only drive rather then risk the cloned copy having sectors overwritten too) and be sure to unselect the default intelligent sector copy option, you want the other option which should mention forensic copy or assessment.
  8. Mirror volume won't work correctly for that situation. One suggestion I have for your 512GB->1TB backup, depending on exactly how you use it, is Macrium Reflect (I should really get paid for how many times I mention it, the version for personal use is free). You can use a saved/scheduled backup setting to make easy incremental backups. On the Pro side you'll not only get your file revision feature through the incremental backups you also get the ability to quickly and easily restore the entire drive (OS included) if anything goes wrong since it's a full disk image and not just a basic file copy. The Con side is that to access the files you do have to 'mount' the image and dated incremental revision you want as a drive first. I use the 4TB (as well as a set of previously bought 2TB) WD Passport drives for regular backup and they work quite well. They are a little thicker/heavier than the old 1TB model since internally I think they're 15mm drives. There are some similar but much more expensive options targeted at professional photographers but unless someone else is paying the bill none really hits the same value/reliability mark. If you don't already know I'd suggest you take care to buy different colors, when you've got a small stack of them it becomes a really useful feature to the point that I wonder why even WD doesn't do it with all their external drive models. As far as trying to make your two 4TB drives appear as one (I assume you basically want to drag and drop once to copy to both) I don't have an easy solution for you. Windows by default won't even allow you setup RAID on USB drives specifically because that's such a brittle setup. For basic file mirroring I use FreeFileSync but there's plenty of other options (I even use Microsoft's much less fancy SyncToy for some small automated backups where I want a few specific folders sync'd to a NAS every login). One thing you might look at is the My Passport Wireless Pro. I'm not trying to recommend it but it might interest you, I've been researching it myself for an odd NAS role. The biggest con besides price is right now it doesn't seem like it has an option for automatic cloud backup - for example you put in an SD card, press the button to copy it to the drive, and then the drive uses its Wifi to also back that data up to OneDrive or iCloud (it supports cloud services like that but only through manual activation in the companion app)
  9. I'm seeing things like Program Files and ProgramData so the most immediate answer is no, you'll break things. To quickly answer your second question before giving a more detailed answer to the first one the drive will not automatically change letters, a drive has a fixed letter for a particular windows installation unless it conflicts with another one and gets automatically reassigned. You need to use Disk Management, right click the volume and choose to change the drive letter manually. Now back to cloning. Just copying program file stuff has two problems, one is that you need to be careful to ensure that you're getting files marked as hidden and system as well as those you (as a non-elevated administrator or even regular user) don't have rights to. The other is that some of those files are probably in use and while you may be able to copy them it could still mess up those programs (since you may copy version 1 of settings file A but because of the small delay get version 2 of file B which was supposed to correctly match up with file A but doesn't anymore). The easiest way to clone them is to have a program that can use Shadow Copy (aka Volume Snapshots). This is a Windows feature that bookmarks the file system at a certain point - changes to files past this point are written to another area so that the program with the bookmark can still see the original file while everything else sees the live version of the file. With Shadow Copy you can even do a live backup of Windows without interrupting your work. There are many backup programs that can do this, but after doing imaging and backups for many years (back to doing it with floppy disks in DOS over a coax cable network) I generally rely on Macrium Reflect which is free for personal use, though you can always use a different program.
  10. If you are looking for 4TB but 1TB is already expensive then you won't find anything in the way of SSDs. What is your current HDD? There is a big difference in noise between something like a Seagate Barracuda (or any other 7200rpm drive like the WD Black) and a WD Red (the non-Pro version) which is 5400rpm with extra vibration dampening making it pretty darn quiet.
  11. If you don't have adapters to plug in both drives at once and perform a straight forward cloning operation you can use software like Macrium Reflect (free for individual users) to create a backup image and a bootable USB drive to restore the image to the empty drive. It would basically go like this: Install Macruim Reflect on laptop. From Other Tasks select Rescue Media and make a bootable flash drive (need a 1GB or larger flash drive). Find a place with enough free space for the backup image (it will be 50-70% of the used space on the disk, so a 20GB factory fresh Windows install might be about 15GB). If your rescue media flashdrive has that much space left then you can use that, otherwise you'll need a bigger flashdrive, a USB harddrive, or a network share/NAS. Perform the backup, it will probably take 10 minutes depending on how fast your USB drive is. Remove the old SSD and set it aside for safety, install the new one. If anything goes wrong you can just put it back in. Boot the laptop using your recovery flash drive. It will take a few minutes but this will get you a Windows PE desktop with just the backup software running and your USB/network drivers. Select restore, pick your image and set the blank SSD as the destination. If you aren't restoring a partition after the C drive you should be able to click and drag (or just click maximum size) to resize the C partition to fill the whole SSD. If you can't you'll need to wait until later and use Disk Management in Windows which is much slower to resize it. If you plan on keep the backup image you might consider omitting the recovery partition and reclaiming that space. Once the restore operation is done close the backup software to shutdown. Remove the flash drive and boot up. In some situations (I don't think this happens with Windows 10 anymore) you'll get a message that Windows has made changes (a drive with a different ID has been made C:) and you need to reboot once for those changes to properly take effect. Enjoy your bigger SSD. Also you now have a backup of your factory configuration that you can restore no matter what happens to the drive inside the laptop.
  12. Speed will be identical and often price will be the same too. The choice comes down to convenience factors. Depending on your case an M.2 may be preferable - if you don't have 2.5" mounts behind the motherboard it may provide better airflow. Many cases also have a limited number of HDD bays which you may want to save for larger (2TB+) mechanical drives. At the same time M.2 connectors are almost always more scarce than regular SATA connectors; 1-2 per motherboard compared to 4-6 SATA ports. If you later want an NVMe drive you may find yourself having to abandon the M.2 to free up the slot. There is also the issue of getting data off the drive if anything goes wrong. A 2.5" drive can be quickly plugged into virtually any machine (and if not then a $5 USB adapter will solve that) while M.2 drives may require more expensive adapters that can't be found at the store around the corner. On the flip side if you own one or more semi-modern laptops then being able to swap or perform hand-me-down upgrades with M.2 drives can be an advantage. Personally my preference is for 2.5" drives when buying a SATA SDD, but that's because I have a lot of infrastructure for dealing with 3.5" and 2.5" drives and very little for M.2s.
  13. It matters if your motherboard is old enough to still have a mix of SATA2 and SATA3 ports, SATA2 ports will bottleneck an SSD. Your motherboard has all SATA3 ports so it makes no difference.
  14. You say you want it mainly for movies and old games (stuff that will run on iGPU), are you sure you need an i7? What other tasks do you want this laptop to be able to handle? 8th gen is a major jump in performance with the i5-8250U being essentially on par with the previous gen's i5-7300HQ, a processor that was still being used in gaming laptops and portable workstations well into 2018. An i5 might make better sense with the money saved spent on more storage. Alternatively if you really are only using it for basic stuff you could even choose a Y series processor. You probably won't save money but they have longer battery life (5W vs 15W) and require less cooling which usually means thinner, lighter and quieter (some models are fanless). *In case you don't know Intel's mobile processors fall into 3 groups: Y series are the slowest but consume the least power, U series is mainstream while H is high performance.
  15. Then you're not looking for a NAS at all. You're either looking for a DAS (direct attached storage) or you're looking for a plain old external HDD.
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